Yet another electrical question. Remodeling my BIL's condo. We took
down a wall that divided the kitchen from the LR/DR . I need to put in
a splice box in the ceiling to re-energize some outlets. I know that
it has to be accessable. There are some halo H7 hi-hats nearby I also
put in. Can I utilize the box on the hi-hat to make as a splice box?
( This would be on a seperate circuit from the hi-hats) Or am I better
off putting a seperate splice box next to the hi-hat so if I needed
access, I can remove the can if I had to.

Yet another electrical question. Remodeling my BIL's condo. We took
down a wall that divided the kitchen from the LR/DR . I need to put in
a splice box in the ceiling to re-energize some outlets. I know that
it has to be accessable. There are some halo H7 hi-hats nearby I also
put in. Can I utilize the box on the hi-hat to make as a splice box?
( This would be on a seperate circuit from the hi-hats) Or am I better
off putting a seperate splice box next to the hi-hat so if I needed
access, I can remove the can if I had to.


*410.21 and 410.64(B) address this. Unless the fixture junction box is
specifically listed for feed through for other circuits, the fixture
junction box cannot be used for other circuits. I know the H7's are listed
for feed-through, but I don't know if they are listed for other circuits
feed-through. You would also need to be concerned about wire fill. In
addition it can be a PITA to work on wires through a recessed light opening.

Installing a junction box up in the ceiling so that it is only accessible by
removing the recessed light might be permissible. However will you remember
five years from now, if there is a problem with the circuit, where the
junction box is and by which light?

The best way is just to run a new feed. The second best is to install a
junction box with a mud ring flush with the finished ceiling or wall and put
a blank cover over it if you can't use it for an outlet or light fixture.

The best way is just to run a new feed. *The second best is to install a
junction box with a mud ring flush with the finished ceiling or wall and put
a blank cover over it if you can't use it for an outlet or light fixture.


Can't run a new feed because the bx is buried in the plaster wall
feeding the outlet. Would be a PITA if I tried to re-run it.

I thought about maybe putting a box flush to the ceiling and putting
a 110V smoke detector, but I think its a little close to the kitchen,
which would set it off.
I'll have to look next time.

The best way is just to run a new feed. The second best is to install a
junction box with a mud ring flush with the finished ceiling or wall and
put
a blank cover over it if you can't use it for an outlet or light fixture.


Can't run a new feed because the bx is buried in the plaster wall
feeding the outlet. Would be a PITA if I tried to re-run it.

I thought about maybe putting a box flush to the ceiling and putting
a 110V smoke detector, but I think its a little close to the kitchen,
which would set it off.
I'll have to look next time.


*How about a carbon monoxide detector? A photoelectric smoke detector is
less prone to false kitchen alarms. Post some pictures and maybe we can
toss out some more ideas.

On Mar 24, 4:30*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
The best way is just to run a new feed. The second best is to install a
junction box with a mud ring flush with the finished ceiling or wall and
put
a blank cover over it if you can't use it for an outlet or light fixture.

Can't run a new feed because the bx is buried in the plaster wall
feeding the outlet. Would be a PITA if I tried to re-run it.

I thought about maybe putting a box flush to the ceiling *and putting
a 110V smoke detector, but I think its a little close to the kitchen,
which would set it off.
I'll have to look next time.

*How about a carbon monoxide detector? *A photoelectric smoke detector is
less prone to false kitchen alarms. *Post some pictures and maybe we can
toss out some more ideas.

I thought CO detectors mount on the wall 3 feet high. I don't think
I've seen any mount on a ceiling.

The best way is just to run a new feed. The second best is to install a
junction box with a mud ring flush with the finished ceiling or wall and
put
a blank cover over it if you can't use it for an outlet or light
fixture.

Can't run a new feed because the bx is buried in the plaster wall
feeding the outlet. Would be a PITA if I tried to re-run it.

I thought about maybe putting a box flush to the ceiling and putting
a 110V smoke detector, but I think its a little close to the kitchen,
which would set it off.
I'll have to look next time.

*How about a carbon monoxide detector? A photoelectric smoke detector is
less prone to false kitchen alarms. Post some pictures and maybe we can
toss out some more ideas.

I thought CO detectors mount on the wall 3 feet high. I don't think
I've seen any mount on a ceiling.


*There are hardwired carbon monoxide detectors available that look similar
to smoke detectors. There are also combo smoke and carbon monoxide
detectors.