I'm considering installing 150 sq feet of engineered hardwood flooring in
our soon to be office. I was surprised to learn that Engineered wood is
pricier than solid. However the sub floor is concrete and I've no choice
but to have a floating floor.

Two questions: Is red oak durable enuf. I'm not an oak fan but I always
thot that white oak was stronger than white. The reason I'm considering red
oak is cause they are selling at a local place for 3.49 a sq foot and
underlayment is .35 a square foot (Southern Ontario). They have about 12
different stains.

By comparison I looked at home depot and all their oak and ash and birch is
about 5.00 and up a sq foot with most around 6.99.

Would love to have American or Canadian ash but the price is too high.

Secondly, does "click" eng. hardwood really mean just click or is it
recommended to glue?? Anyone have experiences on click together flooring
they can help me with?

Thanks again.

?
"The Henchman" wrote in message
...
I'm considering installing 150 sq feet of engineered hardwood flooring in
our soon to be office. I was surprised to learn that Engineered wood is
pricier than solid. However the sub floor is concrete and I've no choice
but to have a floating floor.

Two questions: Is red oak durable enuf. I'm not an oak fan but I always
thot that white oak was stronger than white. The reason I'm considering
red oak is cause they are selling at a local place for 3.49 a sq foot and
underlayment is .35 a square foot (Southern Ontario). They have about 12
different stains.

By comparison I looked at home depot and all their oak and ash and birch
is about 5.00 and up a sq foot with most around 6.99.

Would love to have American or Canadian ash but the price is too high.

Secondly, does "click" eng. hardwood really mean just click or is it
recommended to glue?? Anyone have experiences on click together flooring
they can help me with?

Thanks again.



The finish of most engineered wood is far superior to the poly finish on a
regular hardwood floor done in house. They are very durable and most of the
better brands have extensive warranty on them. They are also stable
dimensionally. The red oak is only the top layer. Other woods may be used
on the plied beneath it. Given the durability of the finish, the wood will
probably never see any wear.

I don't have any experience with the click stuff. I do have the wood in a
couple of rooms and hallway and it still looks great after five or six
years. I'm eventually going to do more of the house as flooring needs to be
replaced.

I don't have any experience with the click stuff. I do have the wood in a
couple of rooms and hallway and it still looks great after five or six
years. I'm eventually going to do more of the house as flooring needs to be
replaced.

----------

There are two types of engineered wood: plywood type and high density fibre
type at least that are available here. The plywood seems to be 40% more in
price but offerers a thicker veneer. Anyone with experience on HDF
hardwood?

In article ,
"The Henchman" wrote:

I'm considering installing 150 sq feet of engineered hardwood flooring in
our soon to be office. I was surprised to learn that Engineered wood is
pricier than solid. However the sub floor is concrete and I've no choice
but to have a floating floor.

Two questions: Is red oak durable enuf. I'm not an oak fan but I always
thot that white oak was stronger than white. The reason I'm considering red
oak is cause they are selling at a local place for 3.49 a sq foot and
underlayment is .35 a square foot (Southern Ontario). They have about 12
different stains.

By comparison I looked at home depot and all their oak and ash and birch is
about 5.00 and up a sq foot with most around 6.99.

Would love to have American or Canadian ash but the price is too high.

Secondly, does "click" eng. hardwood really mean just click or is it
recommended to glue?? Anyone have experiences on click together flooring
they can help me with?

Thanks again.

www.lumberliquidators.com might change your mind about what you can and
cannot afford, as well as answer your technical installation questions.

"The Henchman" wrote in message
...
I'm considering installing 150 sq feet of engineered hardwood flooring in
our soon to be office. I was surprised to learn that Engineered wood is
pricier than solid. However the sub floor is concrete and I've no choice
but to have a floating floor.

Two questions: Is red oak durable enuf. I'm not an oak fan but I always
thot that white oak was stronger than white. The reason I'm considering
red oak is cause they are selling at a local place for 3.49 a sq foot and
underlayment is .35 a square foot (Southern Ontario). They have about 12
different stains.

By comparison I looked at home depot and all their oak and ash and birch
is about 5.00 and up a sq foot with most around 6.99.

Would love to have American or Canadian ash but the price is too high.

Secondly, does "click" eng. hardwood really mean just click or is it
recommended to glue?? Anyone have experiences on click together flooring
they can help me with?

Thanks again.



I did 600 ft of basement in 8 mm HDF "birch" finish from home despot.
It was a loss leader @ 90 cents per sq ft.
This is in Winnipeg.
The flooring was made in Austria, I heard that you should stay away from the
asian made stuff.
The type is click lock, the only time they said to glue was on funky
fittings or repairs, otherwise it's click lock all the way. Dimensions were
7 in wide by 36 in long.
I used superseal dimpled underlayment on the concrete, followed by a layer
of thin foam, then the floor. Superseal and foam were both taped with tuck
tape.

No issues in the 3 years since it was done.