Should I wipe on a coat of linseed oil after oil-staining new bare
wood?

If I don't paint it, and don't need a great finish, I usually "finish"
wood one of two ways:

1) Linseed oil wiped on and wiped off, which brings out the grain and
leaves a nice finish. Not as nice as varnish or polyurethane, but
nice enough.

OR

2) I used latex stain, if I want more color than linseed oil will
give. Depending on what it's used for, that's all I do, or I put
varnish or polyusethane on it.

This time I have a can of oil stain of a nice shade, different from my
usual, and I think I want to use it.

Will another coat of linseed oil accomplish anything good? Or will it
just make a mess? Is the stain all I need?

Thanks.

BTW, Red Devil doesn't seem to make stain anymore, based on its
webpage. Boohoo.

BTW2, Why is the 1x6x8' board I bought made in Sweden? Don't we have
trees in the US?

"mm" wrote
This time I have a can of oil stain of a nice shade, different from my
usual, and I think I want to use it.

Will another coat of linseed oil accomplish anything good? Or will it
just make a mess? Is the stain all I need?

Thanks.

I never used latex stain. Over oil stain, I'd put a couple of coats of BLO
and leave it cure for a week or so. How I finish depends on the use of the
item. You don't "need" more than stain for appearance though. More oil
will give some measure of protection and build a sheen, but never give a
high gloss.

One of my favorite finishing methods is:
polyurethane cut 25% with mineral spirits
sand
Polyurethane straight
sand with 220
Polyurethane straight
sand with 320
Polyurethane straight
let it cure for 3 weeks
sand with 600
rub with pumice
rub with rottenstone
wax

Time consuming, but gives a fantastic finish that does not have that plastic
look you get with poly.

On Sun, 12 Dec 2010 08:14:20 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"mm" wrote
This time I have a can of oil stain of a nice shade, different from my
usual, and I think I want to use it.

Will another coat of linseed oil accomplish anything good? Or will it
just make a mess? Is the stain all I need?

Thanks.

I never used latex stain. Over oil stain, I'd put a couple of coats of BLO
and leave it cure for a week or so. How I finish depends on the use of the
item. You don't "need" more than stain for appearance though.

Well, for this simple thing, maybe one coat of BLO. I'll see. I just
didn't want to start on this without knowing app. where I could go or
where I'd be going, and I couldn't find a web page that talked about
it.

More oil
will give some measure of protection and build a sheen, but never give a
high gloss.

Right. That's fine.

One of my favorite finishing methods is:
polyurethane cut 25% with mineral spirits
sand
Polyurethane straight
sand with 220
Polyurethane straight
sand with 320
Polyurethane straight
let it cure for 3 weeks
sand with 600
rub with pumice
rub with rottenstone
wax

Wow.

Time consuming, but gives a fantastic finish that does not have that plastic
look you get with poly.

I agree. I don't like the plastic look with poly. I also noticed
that it wore off my floor after a few years. I don't know how floors
were finished before poly, but it never happened in the other rooms in
my 1930 apartment (It could be redone without it showing what was old
and what was new, but still.)

This time, it's just a board to keep things from getting lost under
the bed. After several years of not looking very hard, I found things
3 feet from the edge of the bed.

I hate to do this, because my feet stick out when I walk. Like ducks
or something, and I need the space under the bed for my feet, but it's
got to be done.

"mm" wrote in message
...

Should I wipe on a coat of linseed oil after oil-staining new bare
wood?

It depends on your proposed use for the wood and on the type
of wood. Linseed oil can penetrate under the wood surface
and can later migrate out to the surface again. This makes
it unsuitable for floors and bookshelves, because the oil
can transfer later to shoes or books that touch it.

It would be interesting to learn how Australians finish
eucalyptus woods used for bookshelves etc.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"mm" wrote


I agree. I don't like the plastic look with poly. I also noticed
that it wore off my floor after a few years. I don't know how floors
were finished before poly, but it never happened in the other rooms in
my 1930 apartment (It could be redone without it showing what was old
and what was new, but still.)

Shellac was a very common floor finish.



This time, it's just a board to keep things from getting lost under
the bed. After several years of not looking very hard, I found things
3 feet from the edge of the bed.

I hate to do this, because my feet stick out when I walk. Like ducks
or something, and I need the space under the bed for my feet, but it's
got to be done.

Can you recess it a foot or so?

On Dec 12, 2:31*am, mm wrote:
Should I wipe on a coat of linseed oil after oil-staining new bare
wood?

If I don't paint it, and don't need a great finish, I usually "finish"
wood one of two ways:

1) Linseed oil wiped on and wiped off, which brings out the grain and
leaves a nice finish. *Not as nice as varnish or polyurethane, but
nice enough.

OR

2) I used latex stain, if I want more color than linseed oil will
give. * Depending on what it's used for, that's all I do, or I put
varnish or polyusethane on it.

This time I have a can of oil stain of a nice shade, different from my
usual, and I think I want to use it.

Will another coat of linseed oil accomplish anything good? *Or will it
just make a mess? * Is the stain all I need?

Thanks.

BTW, Red Devil doesn't seem to make stain anymore, based on its
webpage. *Boohoo. *

BTW2, Why is the 1x6x8' board I bought made in Sweden? *Don't we have
trees in the US?

Used tung oil over stain on my last fancy project and it was nicely
light colored. Tests the other day on some very old salvaged pine
wound up a beautiful golden hue. Curing time is probably slower than
BLO, but subjectively seems less soft. Worth an experiment if you're
so inclined.

Check over at rec. woodworking for a consensus on best stains. Cabot
is given good marks, maybe others.

Joe

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
polyurethane cut 25% with mineral spirits
[snip]

Interesting. I'd imagine that is to give you better penetration on the
first coat?

Jon