Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

"Michael B" wrote in message
...
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

What you really need to know, is the voltage and amperage of the blower

On 11/21/2010 6:10 PM, RBM wrote:
"Michael wrote in message
...
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

What you really need to know, is the voltage and amperage of the blower


Not really. The glow ignitor can draw a few amps from the 120 volts.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
On 11/21/2010 6:10 PM, RBM wrote:
"Michael wrote in message
...
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

What you really need to know, is the voltage and amperage of the blower


Not really. The glow ignitor can draw a few amps from the 120 volts.

Yes, but your blower motor can be around 10. Bottom line, it all needs to
work together, so he really needs the total fla

On 11/21/2010 6:06 PM, Michael B wrote:
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

Tables like this will help:

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/gener...quirements.htm

My generator 5,500 watts, 7,350 starting watts, handles my furnace,
well, refrigerator, freezer, several lights and a TV. Not hooked up are
electric water heater, central AC, electric stove and clothes dryer, the
big energy hogs.

On Nov 21, 5:06*pm, Michael B wrote:
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

What size blower. Condition and age can make a difference if the motor
is worn. Get a clamp on amp meter and test yours, mine takes about 350
running and 700 startup, that is when it was new.

On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 18:34:43 -0500, "RBM" wrote:


"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
On 11/21/2010 6:10 PM, RBM wrote:
"Michael wrote in message
...
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

What you really need to know, is the voltage and amperage of the blower


Not really. The glow ignitor can draw a few amps from the 120 volts.

Yes, but your blower motor can be around 10. Bottom line, it all needs to
work together, so he really needs the total fla

You also need to remember the ignitor and the blower fan will NOT be
operating at the same time under anything resembling normal
application. Also, startup current of the eductor motor and ignition
will not happen simultaneously.So, what really matters is normal
running current of the eductor fan motor and startup current of the
blower.
If the blower is a brushless DC motor it will also be soft-start and
will not exhibit a large starting current spike.

Michael B wrote:
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

I think the total load is supposed to be on the furnace
manufacturer's tag.
You can just use that without going through any calculations of the
furnace's individual components.
I was about half listening at my last code class when the subject
came up.

From memory, I think the ignitor uses 2 amps on my furnace. The blower
about 6 amps.
Not sure about the inducer fan.

On Nov 21, 6:45*pm, Frank wrote:
On 11/21/2010 6:06 PM, Michael B wrote:

Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

Tables like this will help:

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/gener...quirements.htm

My generator 5,500 watts, 7,350 starting watts, handles my furnace,
well, refrigerator, freezer, several lights and a TV. *Not hooked up are
electric water heater, central AC, electric stove and clothes dryer, the
big energy hogs.

Well, what you are describing is what I want to avoid.
Typical motor for running one of those is a 10HP unit.
If I can do what I need with a 2HP, my fuel will last longer.
Run the furnace till the temperature is where I need it,
with sweaters, switch it over to the freezer each day,
then to the refrigerator and be frugal about opening it,
and use candles when necessary.
Yeah, I know a refrigerator has a high startup surge.
But a lot of the stuff can be in the freezer for a while.

The furnace says it has a total input of 6.8 amps. But
I'm needing to know if the glow ignitor has needs that
would transiently exceed that. Because if it doesn't,
I could run it on a single kilowatt generator. Bet I could
run my freezer on a lot less.

"Michael B" wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 6:45 pm, Frank wrote:
On 11/21/2010 6:06 PM, Michael B wrote:

Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

Tables like this will help:

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/gener...quirements.htm

My generator 5,500 watts, 7,350 starting watts, handles my furnace,
well, refrigerator, freezer, several lights and a TV. Not hooked up are
electric water heater, central AC, electric stove and clothes dryer, the
big energy hogs.

Well, what you are describing is what I want to avoid.
Typical motor for running one of those is a 10HP unit.
If I can do what I need with a 2HP, my fuel will last longer.
Run the furnace till the temperature is where I need it,
with sweaters, switch it over to the freezer each day,
then to the refrigerator and be frugal about opening it,
and use candles when necessary.
Yeah, I know a refrigerator has a high startup surge.
But a lot of the stuff can be in the freezer for a while.

The furnace says it has a total input of 6.8 amps. But
I'm needing to know if the glow ignitor has needs that
would transiently exceed that. Because if it doesn't,
I could run it on a single kilowatt generator. Bet I could
run my freezer on a lot less.

On 11/21/2010 5:06 PM, Michael B wrote:
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

well a furnace will easily run on a fifteen amp circuit, so any old
1500 watt gen will do it if that's all you're running.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 11/21/2010 10:53 PM, Michael B wrote:
On Nov 21, 6:45 pm, wrote:
On 11/21/2010 6:06 PM, Michael B wrote:

Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

Tables like this will help:

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/gener...quirements.htm

My generator 5,500 watts, 7,350 starting watts, handles my furnace,
well, refrigerator, freezer, several lights and a TV. Not hooked up are
electric water heater, central AC, electric stove and clothes dryer, the
big energy hogs.

Well, what you are describing is what I want to avoid.
Typical motor for running one of those is a 10HP unit.
If I can do what I need with a 2HP, my fuel will last longer.
Run the furnace till the temperature is where I need it,
with sweaters, switch it over to the freezer each day,
then to the refrigerator and be frugal about opening it,
and use candles when necessary.
Yeah, I know a refrigerator has a high startup surge.
But a lot of the stuff can be in the freezer for a while.

The furnace says it has a total input of 6.8 amps. But
I'm needing to know if the glow ignitor has needs that
would transiently exceed that. Because if it doesn't,
I could run it on a single kilowatt generator. Bet I could
run my freezer on a lot less.

are you planning on some major outage, or just living in the sticks
without service?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 11/22/2010 6:33 AM, RBM wrote:
"Michael wrote in message
...
On Nov 21, 6:45 pm, wrote:
On 11/21/2010 6:06 PM, Michael B wrote:

Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

Tables like this will help:

http://www.mayberrys.com/honda/gener...quirements.htm

My generator 5,500 watts, 7,350 starting watts, handles my furnace,
well, refrigerator, freezer, several lights and a TV. Not hooked up are
electric water heater, central AC, electric stove and clothes dryer, the
big energy hogs.

Well, what you are describing is what I want to avoid.
Typical motor for running one of those is a 10HP unit.
If I can do what I need with a 2HP, my fuel will last longer.
Run the furnace till the temperature is where I need it,
with sweaters, switch it over to the freezer each day,
then to the refrigerator and be frugal about opening it,
and use candles when necessary.
Yeah, I know a refrigerator has a high startup surge.
But a lot of the stuff can be in the freezer for a while.

The furnace says it has a total input of 6.8 amps. But
I'm needing to know if the glow ignitor has needs that
would transiently exceed that. Because if it doesn't,
I could run it on a single kilowatt generator. Bet I could
run my freezer on a lot less.


Neighbor across the street has generator half the size of mine and gets
by but said if he had to do it over, he would have gotten larger one.
Depends what your needs/wants are.

"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...
On 11/21/2010 5:06 PM, Michael B wrote:
Anybody happen to know how much initial startup amperage
is used for a furnace just coming on, starting its vent motor,
and running the glow starter for a gas furnace?
I'm needing to know what a reasonable generator capacity
would be without overdoing it.
Thanks.

well a furnace will easily run on a fifteen amp circuit, so any old 1500
watt gen will do it if that's all you're running.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

And with the starting current of a typical 1/2 hp blower, you'll be frying
your undersized generator

I tried to run my furnace off an inverter. The start up was fine, but
the blower wouldn't run. So, I conclude the blower is the major energy
user.

Years ago, a guy I knew had the power out. My ETQ brand generator,
rated 1200 watts, worked fine. The furnace was old, and very heavy. I
didn't check the amperage, though I wish I had. That's just one man's
experience, one time. Newer furnaces may use a lot less power. The one
time I checked mine, I think I remember it took about 7 amps.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...

What you really need to know, is the voltage and amperage of the
blower

Blower uses a lot more amps than the ignitor. OP should measure the
current draw of his own furnace. However, for most hot air furnaces,
1,000 watts is a good SWAG for a guess.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...


Not really. The glow ignitor can draw a few amps from the 120 volts.

The glow ignitor uses less start up current than the blower. From what
you're describing, any generator that will run your freezer will also
run your furnace (maybe not at the same time). If power cuts are
occasional, and money is an issue, the two stroke from HF should do
the job.
http://www.harborfreight.com/800-rat...tor-66619.html
Mine is essentially this same design, but different brand. Need to mix
gas and oil, but that's OK.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Michael B"
wrote in message
...

Well, what you are describing is what I want to avoid.
Typical motor for running one of those is a 10HP unit.
If I can do what I need with a 2HP, my fuel will last longer.
Run the furnace till the temperature is where I need it,
with sweaters, switch it over to the freezer each day,
then to the refrigerator and be frugal about opening it,
and use candles when necessary.
Yeah, I know a refrigerator has a high startup surge.
But a lot of the stuff can be in the freezer for a while.

The furnace says it has a total input of 6.8 amps. But
I'm needing to know if the glow ignitor has needs that
would transiently exceed that. Because if it doesn't,
I could run it on a single kilowatt generator. Bet I could
run my freezer on a lot less.

That's the other factor. How many hours. Typical consumer generator is
built for about 200 hours of run time. If you're off grid, and put a
lot of hours on, then Honda is the only brand. In my case, if my
generator gets 3 hours a year, that's a lot.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
...

are you planning on some major outage, or just living in the sticks
without service?

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You also need to remember the ignitor and the blower fan will NOT be
operating at the same time under anything resembling normal
application. Also, startup current of the eductor motor and ignition
will not happen simultaneously.So, what really matters is normal
running current of the eductor fan motor and startup current of the
blower.
If the blower is a brushless DC motor it will also be soft-start and
will not exhibit a large starting current spike.
May be true on traditional-designed furnaces but on new stuff, the
ignitor can run with the blower. Mine does it all the frequently.
It's a Goodman propane furnace, with a heat pump and a variable
speed blower. When it decides to de-ice the heat pump, the blower
will continue to run while firing up the propane. On these things,
the best way to know the current accurately is to monitor it over
time.

On Nov 22, 8:43*am, Art Todesco wrote:
You also need to remember the ignitor and the blower fan will NOT be
operating at the same time under anything resembling normal
application. Also, startup current of the eductor motor and ignition
will not happen *simultaneously.So, what really matters is normal
running current of the eductor fan motor and startup current of the
blower.
If the blower is a brushless DC motor it will also be soft-start and
will not exhibit a large starting current spike.

May be true on traditional-designed furnaces but on new stuff, the
ignitor can run with the blower. *Mine does it all the frequently.
It's a Goodman propane furnace, with a heat pump and a variable
speed blower. *When it decides to de-ice the heat pump, the blower
will continue to run while firing up the propane. *On these things,
the best way to know the current accurately is to monitor it over
time.

I have 4400 cheapo generator for emergencies. I feed the entire house
with it. Runs 2 gas furnaces, a regular fridge, a bar min fridge, and
assorted lights, tv, etc.

On Nov 22, 8:43*am, Art Todesco wrote:
You also need to remember the ignitor and the blower fan will NOT be
operating at the same time under anything resembling normal
application. Also, startup current of the eductor motor and ignition
will not happen *simultaneously.So, what really matters is normal
running current of the eductor fan motor and startup current of the
blower.
If the blower is a brushless DC motor it will also be soft-start and
will not exhibit a large starting current spike.

May be true on traditional-designed furnaces but on new stuff, the
ignitor can run with the blower. *Mine does it all the frequently.
It's a Goodman propane furnace, with a heat pump and a variable
speed blower. *When it decides to de-ice the heat pump, the blower
will continue to run while firing up the propane. *On these things,
the best way to know the current accurately is to monitor it over
time.

If he has a heat pump then he needs a lot more generator.

On Mon, 22 Nov 2010 08:10:11 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

That's the other factor. How many hours. Typical consumer generator is
built for about 200 hours of run time. If you're off grid, and put a
lot of hours on, then Honda is the only brand. In my case, if my
generator gets 3 hours a year, that's a lot.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Steve Barker" wrote in message
m...

are you planning on some major outage, or just living in the sticks
without service?
An old ONAN will do the job too. I don't know how many hundred hours
are on my old beast - it was used as a construction site generator for
over 20 years and it still runs great. A bugger to start though with
just a rope pull - not even a recoil!!

I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..



wrote in message ...

An old ONAN will do the job too. I don't know how many hundred hours
are on my old beast - it was used as a construction site generator for
over 20 years and it still runs great. A bugger to start though with
just a rope pull - not even a recoil!!

On 11/23/2010 10:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.

I got rid of my Coleman 4KW which was quirky. Regulation was poor.
When a fridge or the like would start, it would drastically change
speed and thus voltage and frequency. I tried a whole bunch of
stuff and nothing helped. When it was new, it was very hard to
start, but after some adjustment and cleaning of the carb, it
started easily. But I could never get it to regulate better. So,
now for power outages, we use the Onan 4KW in the motor home, which
is parked 10' from the house. It is hooked up right now to the
generator panel and can by switched on at moment's notice. It is
far better regulated, starts with the touch of a button and is
pretty quiet. I think it's 2 cylinders because is runs sooooo
smoothly. I've always heard Onans are great and this one is not not
an exception. That said, I had a 7KW Onan in a mobile TV truck
which was horrible. It was repaired multiple times by the
installing company and by Onan and no one could make it reliable.
It bounced around in speed, and thus frequency and voltage, whenever
it felt like ... nothing starting, etc. It's now a anchor weight in
the TV truck replaced by an Auragen belted off the V8. This works
very well and as it has an inverter, it is dead on. Of course you
pay to run the V8. And, if the belt breaks, as it did a few weeks
ago, you have no power.

On Nov 23, 12:04*pm, Art Todesco wrote:
On 11/23/2010 10:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote: I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.

I got rid of my Coleman 4KW which was quirky. *Regulation was poor.
* When a fridge or the like would start, it would drastically change
speed and thus voltage and frequency. *I tried a whole bunch of
stuff and nothing helped. *When it was new, it was very hard to
start, but after some adjustment and cleaning of the carb, it
started easily. *But I could never get it to regulate better. *So,
now for power outages, we use the Onan 4KW in the motor home, which
is parked 10' from the house. *It is hooked up right now to the
generator panel and can by switched on at moment's notice. *It is
far better regulated, starts with the touch of a button and is
pretty quiet. *I think it's 2 cylinders because is runs sooooo
smoothly. *I've always heard Onans are great and this one is not not
an exception. *That said, I had a 7KW Onan in a mobile TV truck
which was horrible. *It was repaired multiple times by the
installing company and by Onan and no one could make it reliable.
It bounced around in speed, and thus frequency and voltage, whenever
it felt like ... nothing starting, etc. *It's now a anchor weight in
the TV truck replaced by an Auragen belted off the V8. *This works
very well and as it has an inverter, it is dead on. *Of course you
pay to run the V8. *And, if the belt breaks, as it did a few weeks
ago, you have no power.

You get what you pay for. And most onans are pretty well built. I
can't complaint about my el cheapo 4400. It works fine. When the
microwave gets used it does take a fraction of a second to bring the
rpm back up but I can be watching tv when the microwave gets started
and it doesn't disrupt the picture. The lights dim for a tiny bit but
I figure it's not a big deal. I don't really notice the furnace fans
kicking on though, only the microwave.

On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:25:21 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.
I've started lots of engines that way. even had one miserable 2
stroke weed-eater that would not start, no matter how hard I pulled -
had lot's of spark and compression, and seemingly lots of fuel - so I
chucked it in my Myford lathe and wound it up. After about a minute it
fired up - I let it run in the lathe for another minute or two, then
killed both the lathe and engine, removed the engine from the lathe,
and it started on one pull. Never had another problem with it all
season - then I got rid of the stinky thing.

On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 12:04:34 -0500, Art Todesco
wrote:

On 11/23/2010 10:25 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.

I got rid of my Coleman 4KW which was quirky. Regulation was poor.
When a fridge or the like would start, it would drastically change
speed and thus voltage and frequency. I tried a whole bunch of
stuff and nothing helped. When it was new, it was very hard to
start, but after some adjustment and cleaning of the carb, it
started easily. But I could never get it to regulate better. So,
now for power outages, we use the Onan 4KW in the motor home, which
is parked 10' from the house. It is hooked up right now to the
generator panel and can by switched on at moment's notice. It is
far better regulated, starts with the touch of a button and is
pretty quiet. I think it's 2 cylinders because is runs sooooo
smoothly. I've always heard Onans are great and this one is not not
an exception. That said, I had a 7KW Onan in a mobile TV truck
which was horrible. It was repaired multiple times by the
installing company and by Onan and no one could make it reliable.
It bounced around in speed, and thus frequency and voltage, whenever
it felt like ... nothing starting, etc. It's now a anchor weight in
the TV truck replaced by an Auragen belted off the V8. This works
very well and as it has an inverter, it is dead on. Of course you
pay to run the V8. And, if the belt breaks, as it did a few weeks
ago, you have no power.
Onan is owned by Cummins now. Back when mine was built it was a
Stude.

I remember, toward the end, that the drill and socket was about the
only way I could get that old mower to start.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Nov 2010 10:25:21 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've heard good things about Onan. As to the wind and yank engines. I
had a lawn mower like that. I found that I was able to saw off a 3/8
socket extension, and chuck it in my big 1/2 inch drill. Socket on
the
end of that, to spin the flywheel nut. Made it much easier to start
the mower. Of course, during a power cut, this is much less useful.

I've started lots of engines that way. even had one miserable 2
stroke weed-eater that would not start, no matter how hard I pulled -
had lot's of spark and compression, and seemingly lots of fuel - so I
chucked it in my Myford lathe and wound it up. After about a minute it
fired up - I let it run in the lathe for another minute or two, then
killed both the lathe and engine, removed the engine from the lathe,
and it started on one pull. Never had another problem with it all
season - then I got rid of the stinky thing.