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#1
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Electric Drills
We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's
about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. |
#2
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Electric Drills
"Dottie" wrote in message ... We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. You're way better off using a hammer drill and of course a masonry bit |
#3
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Electric Drills
On Nov 17, 3:59*pm, Dottie wrote:
We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. *It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. *One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. *I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do *it. * My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? *Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? *Thanks. Are you using a concrete bit, it should work but slower than a hammer drill. |
#4
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Electric Drills
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:59:46 -0800 (PST), Dottie
wrote Re Electric Drills: My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong No. Concrete is way beyond a 12V rechargeable drill, unless you go very slowly and recharge several times. -- Work is the curse of the drinking class. |
#5
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Electric Drills
On Nov 17, 5:49*pm, Caesar Romano wrote:
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:59:46 -0800 (PST), Dottie wrote Re Electric Drills: My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? *Am I doing something wrong No. Concrete is way beyond a 12V rechargeable drill, unless you go very slowly and recharge several times. -- Work is the curse of the drinking class. Thank you. I was pretty sure the drill just wasn't powerful enough. |
#6
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Electric Drills
"Dottie" wrote in message ... We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. Others already told you that it is not up to concrete work. You also mention it does not sound fully charged. Given the 8 years it has been around, some of the cells may have died and will not hold a charge; a common malady. Either buy a new battery or have the old one rebuilt by someone like www.primecell.com and it will be better than new. |
#7
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Electric Drills
On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote:
We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. You buy the size you need for the holes. Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg |
#8
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Electric Drills
In article ,
Tony Miklos wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. You buy the size you need for the holes. Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg Of course, if your concrete is 50 yrs. old, you can hammer on that thing all day and remove about 1/64" of material. BTDT. |
#9
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Electric Drills
On Nov 18, 12:47*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article , *Tony Miklos wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. *It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. *One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. *I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do *it. * My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? *Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? *Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. *You buy the size you need for the holes. *Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg Of course, if your concrete is 50 yrs. old, you can hammer on that thing all day and remove about 1/64" of material. BTDT. Thank you for the picture. I will look tomorrow at Home Depot. I had thought about going ahead and buying a new drill - just hated to spend that much so I could drill a few holes. It's not something I need very often. The house was built in 1983 - it's stucco over concrete block. And I actually need to hang several of those hose hangers. Dottie |
#10
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Electric Drills
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 13:20:50 -0800 (PST), Dottie
wrote: On Nov 18, 12:47Â*pm, Smitty Two wrote: In article , Â*Tony Miklos wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. Â*It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. Â*One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. Â*I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do Â*it. Â* My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Â*Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Â*Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. Â*You buy the size you need for the holes. Â*Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg Of course, if your concrete is 50 yrs. old, you can hammer on that thing all day and remove about 1/64" of material. BTDT. Thank you for the picture. I will look tomorrow at Home Depot. I had thought about going ahead and buying a new drill - just hated to spend that much so I could drill a few holes. It's not something I need very often. The house was built in 1983 - it's stucco over concrete block. And I actually need to hang several of those hose hangers. Dottie You don't want to drill through block or brick if you can avoid it. Drill through the mortar joint. Might have to measure to find the joint. I wouldn't pound on stucco with a star drill. No experience with stucco, but you should be able to get through that and mortar easily with your drill and a masonry bit. But if your drill is shot, you don't need to spend a lot on a drill for that if you go electric. I have this. Tossed about 4 cordless drills/drivers because of bad batteries. No comparison to the battery junk I had. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...block Type=G1 You can find cheaper. But that's a good one. You'll use it for other things. Since I'm leery of getting zapped outside using 120v I usually stand on a rubber car mat or piece of plywood. Always do in damp or wet dirt. Look at HD for a package with a masonry bit and plugs/screws to fit. 1/4" or 5/16" bit should do. Like this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 But make sure it's a masonry bit. Think I got a pack with a 5/16" masonry bit when I hung a hose reel on my brick wall. Or just buy a bit and plugs separately. I don't how thick or strong stucco is, so you judge how long the screws should be. The hose carrier holes didn't line up with the mortar joints when I hung it, so I put 1"x"4 wood strips on the wall, then screwed the reel assembly to those. --Vic |
#11
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Electric Drills
I've heard of an electrical wizzard, who refers to plus and minus
screw drivers. Where we would say phillips, and slotted. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Tony Miklos" wrote in message ... Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg |
#12
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Electric Drills
Under twenty bucks, at HF
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...ill-94436.html -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Dottie" wrote in message ... Thank you for the picture. I will look tomorrow at Home Depot. I had thought about going ahead and buying a new drill - just hated to spend that much so I could drill a few holes. It's not something I need very often. The house was built in 1983 - it's stucco over concrete block. And I actually need to hang several of those hose hangers. Dottie |
#13
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Electric Drills
On Nov 18, 5:24*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 13:20:50 -0800 (PST), Dottie wrote: On Nov 18, 12:47*pm, Smitty Two wrote: In article , *Tony Miklos wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. *It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. *One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. *I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do *it. * My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? *Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? *Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. *You buy the size you need for the holes. *Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. |
#14
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Electric Drills
Angels we have heard on high
Telling us go out and buy! (Tom Lehrer) -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Dottie" wrote in message ... Thank you. I was afraid I would have to buy an expensive drill --- I have Bookmarked those two web sites and tomorrow I may buy myself an early Christmas present. |
#15
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#16
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
"Rudy" wrote in message
... Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? How old is the concrete? Is it possible there's a much newer layer over an older one? -- Bobby G. |
#17
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Electric Drills
On 11/18/2010 12:47 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In , Tony wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. You buy the size you need for the holes. Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg Of course, if your concrete is 50 yrs. old, you can hammer on that thing all day and remove about 1/64" of material. BTDT. The first time I ever used a star bit was on old concrete, early 50's I'd guess. The concrete with a non hammer drill ruined all my masonry bits and the star bit worked much much better. And no I didn't overheat them either. Sure a hammer drill is better, but in my experience, a star bit works a lot better than a masonry bit in a regular drill. |
#18
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Electric Drills
On 11/18/2010 5:24 PM, Vic Smith wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 13:20:50 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Nov 18, 12:47 pm, Smitty wrote: In , Tony wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do it. My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. Any suggestions before I ask someone down the street to do the holes for me? Thanks. Get yourself an inexpensive star bit for a couple dollars. You buy the size you need for the holes. Simply hammer on it and it will easily break through concrete, a bit tougher when you hit stones, but still easier than a masonry bit in a little drill without the hammer option. Hard to find a picture of one due to so many people calling "Torx" bits "Star" bits, which they are not. Here is a poor picture of a star bit that you simply hammer on: http://www.ngkmetals.com/image/store...arDrillBit.jpg Of course, if your concrete is 50 yrs. old, you can hammer on that thing all day and remove about 1/64" of material. BTDT. Thank you for the picture. I will look tomorrow at Home Depot. I had thought about going ahead and buying a new drill - just hated to spend that much so I could drill a few holes. It's not something I need very often. The house was built in 1983 - it's stucco over concrete block. And I actually need to hang several of those hose hangers. Dottie You don't want to drill through block or brick if you can avoid it. Drill through the mortar joint. Might have to measure to find the joint. I wouldn't pound on stucco with a star drill. Gotta agree there, could make a mess out of the stucco. |
#19
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Electric Drills
On Nov 19, 9:51*am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 11/18/2010 5:24 PM, Vic Smith wrote: On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 13:20:50 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Nov 18, 12:47 pm, Smitty *wrote: In , * Tony *wrote: On 11/17/2010 4:59 PM, Dottie wrote: We have a Ryobi electric drill. The case says 12.0 .... anyway it's about 8 years old I think. *It is the kind with a rechargeable battery....and it works o.k. for most things. *One thing I have never been able to do is drill holes in concrete. *I want to put up a hose hanger -- and the drill won't do *it. * My question is -- should this drill work on concrete? *Am I doing something wrong -- it doesn't sound like it's fully charged -- but I'm not sure that is the reason. |
#20
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On Nov 19, 11:54*am, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 21:10:00 -0800, "Rudy" wrote: Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of *6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS *(for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. *no further. *I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started *new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- Drill the hole deeper than the screw and blow out the dust with canned air or your compressor if you have one. A screw gun works better than manually running them in. Once they stop, it is hard to get them going again. I bought a Craftsman electric drill today and went to Lowe's (next door) for the drill bit. The star drill bit was very small and fragile -- and I couldn't see using it for what I wanted. I bought a masonry drill bit. I was able to drill the hole I needed and to enlarge the old hole where the old hose hangar had been. So it's up there. Of course the drill came without any drill bits -- I was going to use the ones left over from the old drill that we used to have but I decided it will be a whole lot easier to just go back and buy a small pouch full of drill bits and start over. I cannot tell exactly what size the old ones are. |
#21
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On 11/19/2010 3:46 PM Dottie spake thus:
I bought a Craftsman electric drill today and went to Lowe's (next door) for the drill bit. [...] Of course the drill came without any drill bits -- I was going to use the ones left over from the old drill that we used to have but I decided it will be a whole lot easier to just go back and buy a small pouch full of drill bits and start over. I cannot tell exactly what size the old ones are. Tip: Don't just throw drill bits in a pouch and then have to hunt for the right size later: treat yourself to a proper drill index, a case for bits that holds them and identifies them so it's easy to pull the one you want. Not expensive (I prefer the metal ones, but they're getting hard to find--everything's cheap plastic these days). -- The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring, with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags. - Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com) |
#22
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On Nov 19, 5:46*pm, Dottie wrote:
On Nov 19, 11:54*am, wrote: On Thu, 18 Nov 2010 21:10:00 -0800, "Rudy" wrote: Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of *6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS *(for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. *no further. *I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started *new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- Drill the hole deeper than the screw and blow out the dust with canned air or your compressor if you have one. A screw gun works better than manually running them in. Once they stop, it is hard to get them going again. I bought a Craftsman electric drill today and went to Lowe's (next door) for the drill bit. *The star drill bit was very small and fragile -- and I couldn't see using it for what I wanted. *I bought a masonry drill bit. *I was able to drill the hole I needed and to enlarge the old hole where the old hose hangar had been. * So it's up there. *Of course the drill came without any drill bits -- I was going to use the ones left over from the old drill that we used to have but I decided it will be a whole lot easier to just go back and buy a small pouch full of drill bits and start over. *I cannot tell exactly what size the old ones are.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Glad to hear that things worked out for you. This is a good group to read, you can learn a lot just lurking. |
#23
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
No "layers" Its 5 yrs old, poured all at once, about 4-5" thick
"Robert Green" wrote in message ... "Rudy" wrote in message ... Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? How old is the concrete? Is it possible there's a much newer layer over an older one? --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#24
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
wrote SNIP Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? Drill the hole deeper than the screw and blow out the dust with canned air or your compressor if you have one. I'd love to do that except as my Q above states..The drilling STOPS about 1/2" down.. THATS the problem --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#25
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
No "layers" Its 5 yrs old, poured all at once, about 4-5" thick
Well, *something's* different about the layers. Are you using the throwaway bits that often accompany the package of Tapcons? I know people who say the Tapcon bits are junk compared to the much more expensive Bosch bits. What diameter are you using? Do you have any different sized bits? Have you considered using the .22 powered ramset fasteners? Since you know something about the initial pour, do you know the composition of the mix? Have you tried irrigating the troublesome holes with water to cool the bit and clear away the dust? My best advice would be to get a different bit and use the slowest speed possible while keeping a stream of water, even if only from a squirt bottle, on the drill bit. HTH -- Bobby G. "Rudy" wrote in message ... No "layers" Its 5 yrs old, poured all at once, about 4-5" thick "Robert Green" wrote in message ... "Rudy" wrote in message ... Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? How old is the concrete? Is it possible there's a much newer layer over an older one? |
#26
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On Sun, 21 Nov 2010 08:54:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote: No "layers" Its 5 yrs old, poured all at once, about 4-5" thick Well, *something's* different about the layers. Are you using the throwaway bits that often accompany the package of Tapcons? I know people who say the Tapcon bits are junk compared to the much more expensive Bosch bits. What diameter are you using? Do you have any different sized bits? Have you considered using the .22 powered ramset fasteners? Since you know something about the initial pour, do you know the composition of the mix? Have you tried irrigating the troublesome holes with water to cool the bit and clear away the dust? My best advice would be to get a different bit and use the slowest speed possible while keeping a stream of water, even if only from a squirt bottle, on the drill bit. HTH All good ideas. I had a similar bad experience with TAPCON bits on my poured foundation wall. Thinks that's when I bought my hammer drill. Some concrete is *really* hard to get through. I decided then that if I did it often I'd buy a ramset, although those aren't foolproof either for stuff that shatters. My foundation wall is so hard I expect a ramset would have cratered it. I've decided not to hang anything else on it. For the sole plate the OP is doing I recommend just getting a couple good holes drilled per 8 foot plate and gluing it down. If there's wrestling matches going on down there the wrestlers will go through the wall before they knock the sole plate loose. --Vic |
#27
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On 11/18/2010 11:10 PM, Rudy wrote:
Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? I saw the title of your post and all sorts of bizarre things went through my warped mind before I looked more closely. I will never learn to stop reading with my peripheral vision. 8-) TDD |
#28
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
Well, *something's* different about the layers.. The thing is, I CAN drill a 1.5" deep hole in several places beneath the sole plate area, but a foot over "that way" or "this way", no luck..3 tries get me three holes only 1/2" deep..then a foot over there, back down to 1.5" again with the SAME TAPCON supplied bit. I know people who say the Tapcon bits are junk compared to the much more expensive Bosch bits. THEN I tried a BOSCH bit..same dia..same thing..Cant drill in the 1/2" deep holes either. What diameter are you using? the size specified for those particular TAPCONS Do you have any different sized bits? Yes but they wont work with the SIZE SPECIFIC TAPCONS I have. Since you know something about the initial pour, do you know the composition of the mix? 2500 -3000 lb standard FLOOR concrete Have you tried irrigating the troublesome holes with water to cool the bit and clear away the dust? I blow the dust out..havent tried water but what I'm concerned with is WHY I can drill 6 holes fine and CAN'T drive 6 others in the same area. As I said, I must be hitting aggregate/stone or rebar ^@!#@#!#@1! Its "borrow the RAMSET gun" next I guess --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#29
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
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#30
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
"Rudy" wrote in message ... . Is this a hammer drill ..yep I used to be a steel erection contractor, installing and fixing lots of gates and fences. With a 1/4" or larger hole, you can put a star bit in there, and whack it a few times, and it will either break the rock, or the ding will tell you if it is steel. Not so with the smaller TapCon holes. For that, I used the small cold rolled steel rod that comes in a Bommer spring for tensioning that spring. About three inches long. They won't bend, but will snap. Grind it down to a point, and use it to break up the rock that won't let you pass. As I said, you will get a definite ping if you have hit rebar. Not sure where you can get these pins without buying a whole Bommer spring assembly, but surely, there is something you have that is small enough and tough enough so you can make an icepick probe. Don't drive it in there, because you want to get it back out. Use a pair of visegrip pliers to extract. Yer welcome. Steve Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend. http://cabgbypasssurgery.com |
#31
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
On 11/21/2010 2:52 PM, Rudy wrote:
As I said, I must be hitting aggregate/stone or rebar ^@!#@#!#@1! Stick a cut nail or other hardened nail in the hole and see what happens. Like Steve B said, hitting rebar you will hear a ping, that's a bitch because the concrete around it will dull a metal steel bit. If it's a stone, there is a chance the cut nail will go in and hold. Hit it with a 2 or 3 pound hammer. (wear safety goggles, those suckers can fly) My last house with a poured foundation had stone in it that was hard as all hell. It's not always easy but you can get a cut nail in there if it isn't hitting rebar. |
#32
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
Might be one or the other. Sadly, not many people have X-ray vision,
and make house calls. We'd just be guessing. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Rudy" wrote in message ... Need a 1/2 hammer drill and mason bit for concrete. The combo will go through most concrete and mortar like butter. Why is it that when I try to (hammer) drill a series of 6-8 holes in my basement floor slab to use TAPCONS (for 1 1/4" concrete penetration) to anchor a bottom plate, HALF of them will only go down about 1/2" and then thats it.. no further. I 've even moved the bit 1"-2" side to side and started new holes but no luck.. Am I hitting ROCKS in the concrete mix or maybe REBAR ? --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: --- |
#33
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Electric Drills & TAPCONS
"Tony Miklos" wrote in message ... On 11/21/2010 2:52 PM, Rudy wrote: As I said, I must be hitting aggregate/stone or rebar ^@!#@#!#@1! Stick a cut nail or other hardened nail in the hole and see what happens. Like Steve B said, hitting rebar you will hear a ping, that's a bitch because the concrete around it will dull a metal steel bit. Get a long concrete nail, too. Easy to find. Steve |
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