I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed.. I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On 10/10/2010 8:52 PM, Colbyt wrote:
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago.

I cut all kinds of metal with an angle grinder, something like:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_36866-79992-...ductId=1208961

Mine is an old B&D made in the US. Only B&D product I still like. I
see cheapies everywhere. The sparks fly, just like on Letterman.

Get a thin disc, remember they don't turn, or you won't have a disk.

I suppose tin snips would work *after* you got a start. Perhaps you
could start on a corner with a jig saw, you could cut it all with that too.

Just my non-professional opinion. I don't do duct work. I may be
rambling...

Jeff


I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed.. I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

On Oct 10, 8:29*pm, Jeff Thies wrote:
On 10/10/2010 8:52 PM, Colbyt wrote:

I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago.

I cut all kinds of metal with an angle grinder, something like:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_36866-79992-...4294937087_?pr...

* *Mine is an old B&D made in the US. Only B&D product I still like. I
see cheapies everywhere. The sparks fly, just like on Letterman.

* Get a thin disc, remember they don't turn, or you won't have a disk.

* *I suppose tin snips would work *after* you got a start. Perhaps you
could start on a corner with a jig saw, you could cut it all with that too.

* *Just my non-professional opinion. I don't do duct work. I may be
rambling...

* *Jeff

* I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is



going to be a b**** *but I can do it once if I must. *Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed... I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. *There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What about a sawz-all with a fine-toohed/metal cutting blade???

On Oct 10, 5:52*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago. *I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** *but I can do it once if I must. *Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed.. I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. *There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

Use a framing square or a plywood chunk as a way to mark the cuts on
the duct with a Sharpie.

Use a 4" grinder with a thin metal cutting abrasive blade. Cut the
sides & the bottom first.
Do a partial cut on the top, both cuts. Use some aluminum tape on the
side cuts (make sure to leave a "peel tab"),

Finish the top cuts, peel the side tape, remove the duct section &
deburr.
The section can replaced with aluminum tape.


cheers
Bob

"Colbyt" wrote:
-snip-

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.


I'd go with bob's method- but use a Dremel and [many] disks instead of
the angle grinder. I always feel like I have more control with the
Dremel.

Jim

Colbyt wrote:

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do
this is because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot
under the tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention
I hate tight crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is
coming from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must.
Paybacks can be awesome. -

Hire a neighbor kid and send him in there with a video camera?

On Oct 11, 12:26*am, DD_BobK wrote:
On Oct 10, 5:52*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:





I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago. *I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** *but I can do it once if I must. *Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed... I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. *There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

Use a framing square or a plywood chunk as a way to mark the cuts on
the duct with a Sharpie.

Use a 4" grinder with a thin metal cutting abrasive blade. *Cut the
sides & the bottom first.
Do a partial cut on the top, both cuts. *Use some aluminum tape on the
side cuts (make sure to leave a "peel tab"),

Finish the top cuts, peel the side tape, remove the duct section &
deburr.
The section can replaced with aluminum tape.

I'd recommend drive cleats followed by duct tape, but that's just me.
Since you are going to have butt joints on all four sides, you might
want to support them with little tabs of metal screwed in with zip
screws as well.

nate

On Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:52:53 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:

I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed.. I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

How about and air nibbler?

Video:

_Harbor Freight Air Nibbler Reveiw and Demo _

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZbBwJm7Ew8

I'm also suggesting a dremel (with diamond blade cutting attachment),
since that is the best tool for confined space. If it were sitting on
your work bench, I'd probably use an angle grinder.

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project
but take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go
from there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+
years ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side
is going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I
want to return the duct to its original position after the project is
completed.. I might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat
guy. But that part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this
is because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is
coming from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks
can be awesome. -


--
Colbyt


Looks like the dremel or angle grinder is the clear winner here. The diamond
versus the abrasive disc not yet so clear. I am concerned about the sparks
in a confined crawl space but more than likely I can drape a tarp to catch
them.

I own both tools and will test these on some scrap metal sometime in the
next few days.

For whomever said it, if I rejoined these as it was I planned to bridge the
seam with some screwed or pop-riveted metal and then tape the whole joint
with the better metal tape. Bending new tabs for a seam strip would shorten
the duct by two inches so that is only an option if I can offset the last 5
feet.

What I really want to do is raise that last 5 foot of trunk by patching in
an offset since there is a good 8-10" between the top of the trunk and the
floor joists. There is no valid reason for it resting on the dirt the way it
is now. Just a lazy HVAC person. Also they way it is now precludes the
possibility of insulating it.

I will update this thread for the benefit of those who may follow it later.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Oct 2010 20:52:53 -0400, "Colbyt"
wrote:

I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project
but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+
years
ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I want
to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed..
I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this
is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is
coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

How about and air nibbler?

Video:

_Harbor Freight Air Nibbler Reveiw and Demo _

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZbBwJm7Ew8


That would be about 3 times the continuous CFM rate of my better compressor
but I sure like what I saw. Breaks are not a bad thing while working.

Colbyt

On Oct 10, 7:52*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project but
take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go from
there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+ years
ago. *I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side is
going to be a b**** *but I can do it once if I must. *Most likely, I want to
return the duct to its original position after the project is completed.. I
might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat guy. But that
part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this is
because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. *There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is coming
from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks can be
awesome. -

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

HVAC pros and sheet metal journeymen use double cut snips. See Wiss
HM41V at Amazon or air powered version 98680 at Harbor Freight, around
$35 for either. Cutting duct work with real tools will always work
best. There are electric models also from several manufacturers, but
for the DIY person a double cut nibbler like the Grizzly G4956 might
be easiest to use in a confined space. None of these will make a mess
like an angle grinder or Dremel.

Joe

Joe wrote:
On Oct 10, 7:52 pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this
project but take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this
and I will go from there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I
need to cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct
from 40+ years ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well
that one side is going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must.
Most likely, I want to return the duct to its original position
after the project is completed.. I might choose to step it up to
make it easier on the next fat guy. But that part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year
dried dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not
do the original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the
metal on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting
the four sides of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do
this is because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to
scoot under the tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I
mention I hate tight crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak
is coming from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must.
Paybacks can be awesome. -

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

HVAC pros and sheet metal journeymen use double cut snips. See Wiss
HM41V at Amazon or air powered version 98680 at Harbor Freight, around
$35 for either. Cutting duct work with real tools will always work
best. There are electric models also from several manufacturers, but
for the DIY person a double cut nibbler like the Grizzly G4956 might
be easiest to use in a confined space. None of these will make a mess
like an angle grinder or Dremel.

The smell remailing from using an abrasive blade will definately be obnoxious
for awhile.

That's going to be the best answer. I use a metal shear from Harbor
Freight, but it sounds like the OP doesn't have much room to work
with.

Duct work doesn't necessarily have to be steel. He could use plywood
to replace the metal that he takes out. Some duct tape to cut down on
leaks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"hr(bob) "
wrote in message
...

What about a sawz-all with a fine-toohed/metal cutting blade???

Depedning on the gage of the metal, tin shears might be the way to go.
Drill a couple holes with a "step bit" and start from the hole.
Plywood can be used to make duct, though some of the HVAC guys here
would not be happy with me writing that. I'm thinking you could make
something that comes out later, next time you need to go make repairs.

Some supply houses have offset pieces, so you can run the trunk up or
down a couple inches. I doubt any of the premade pieces would offset 8
inches, though.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Colbyt" wrote in message
m...

Looks like the dremel or angle grinder is the clear winner here. The
diamond
versus the abrasive disc not yet so clear. I am concerned about the
sparks
in a confined crawl space but more than likely I can drape a tarp to
catch
them.

I own both tools and will test these on some scrap metal sometime in
the
next few days.

For whomever said it, if I rejoined these as it was I planned to
bridge the
seam with some screwed or pop-riveted metal and then tape the whole
joint
with the better metal tape. Bending new tabs for a seam strip would
shorten
the duct by two inches so that is only an option if I can offset the
last 5
feet.

What I really want to do is raise that last 5 foot of trunk by
patching in
an offset since there is a good 8-10" between the top of the trunk and
the
floor joists. There is no valid reason for it resting on the dirt the
way it
is now. Just a lazy HVAC person. Also they way it is now precludes
the
possibility of insulating it.

I will update this thread for the benefit of those who may follow it
later.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

"Colbyt" wrote in message
...
I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project
but take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go
from there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+
years ago. I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side
is going to be a b**** but I can do it once if I must. Most likely, I
want to return the duct to its original position after the project is
completed.. I might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat
guy. But that part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this
is because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is
coming from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks
can be awesome. -


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com




I want to thank again all those who made a serious reply in this thread.
The job is finished and I am back to report the results for the benefit of
others who may visit the thread on one of the republication places. I plan
to post an article with photos on my site when I have time to write it.

Due to my inexperience with sheet metal, angles, and math I actually managed
to cut in place and on a work bench so I tried all the tools except the
nibbler at least once.


I found the Dremel using the right angle attachment and abrasive cutting
discs to be the tool with the best control. One should use that if 98%
accuracy is required. Do expect to use a lot of discs. A standard weight
one will cut about 2-3" of duct before it is gone. Using the heavy-weight
discs did not improve the length of the cut because of the increased stock
removal but they will be required for cutting the 4 layers of metal at the
joints.

The Dremel with a diamond bit was worthless. Diamonds are for tile and
stone not metal.

The angle grinder with a thin kerf cutting disc was the best for overall
speed and disc durability. It is somewhat harder to control and makes a lot
of sparks but it is the tool I would use next time if I had the room.



--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Nov 14, 7:15*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"Colbyt" wrote in message

...





I own most of the tools and would hate to buy a new one for this project
but take your best shot at the best way and tool to do this and I will go
from there.

I have not actually measured it but I think the main trunk line I need to
cut is 12x18, might be 12x24. Standard gauge metal HVAC duct from 40+
years ago. *I have reasonable access on all four sides. Well that one side
is going to be a b**** *but I can do it once if I must. *Most likely, I
want to return the duct to its original position after the project is
completed.. I might choose to step it up to make it easier on the next fat
guy. But that part I can figure out.

I can't unzip it at the seams without a lot of digging in 60+ year dried
dirt as the next seam is resting on the ground. Hey, I did not do the
original install. If I had it would be far different.

So what I want is a clean way to cut the duct without destroying the metal
on either side of the cut. As an example: much like cutting the four sides
of a wood box with a table saw.

Now to inject a little humor to the thread; the reason I want to do this
is because my belly has grown to big and my back to bad to scoot under the
tunnel I made years ago in this crawl space. Did I mention I hate tight
crawl spaces.

Suggest a diet and die. *There isn't time or the willpower to make it
happen. I got to get over there to figure out where the water leak is
coming from. Go ahead and make your fat guy jokes if you must. Paybacks
can be awesome. -

--
Colbyt
Please come visithttp://www.househomerepair.com

I want to thank again all those who made a serious reply in this thread.
The job is finished and I am back to report the results for the benefit of
others who may visit the thread on one of the republication places. I plan
to post an article with photos on my site when I have time to write it.

Due to my inexperience with sheet metal, angles, and math I actually managed
to cut in place and on a work bench so I tried all the tools except the
nibbler at least once.

I found the Dremel using the right angle attachment and abrasive cutting
discs *to be the tool with the best control. *One should use that if 98%
accuracy is required. *Do expect to use a lot of discs. *A standard weight
one will cut about 2-3" of duct before it is gone. Using the heavy-weight
discs did not improve the length of the cut because of the increased stock
removal but they will be required for cutting the 4 layers of metal at the
joints.

The Dremel with a diamond bit was worthless. *Diamonds are for tile and
stone not metal.

The angle grinder with a thin kerf cutting disc was the best for overall
speed and disc durability. *It is somewhat harder to control and makes a lot
of sparks but it is the tool I would use next time if I had the room.

--
Colbyt
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What about a jigsaw with a metal blade? I don't do much hvac, only
diy. I use my jigsaw for cutting openings in metal ductwork. First
mark with the sharpie. The air powered double cutters are the best
but I don't do enough to justify one of those. A dremel would just
take forever and use a ton of those little disks.