Grrr- I knew it was getting close & had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak & it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. [I'm in NY & winter is close & I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Thanks-
Jim

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
Grrr- I knew it was getting close & had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak & it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. [I'm in NY & winter is close & I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Thanks-
Jim

You can damage a lot of wood letting a leak go for a year. Covering the
area with a heavy tarp might work.

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
Grrr- I knew it was getting close & had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak & it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. [I'm in NY & winter is close & I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Thanks-
Jim

If appearance does not matter any of the roll on fiberated mobile home roof
sealers will buy you a year or two. KoolSeal is the top of the line product
but Lowes sells a generic for about half the price. Pour it on and spread
with a broom. May need to repeat over shingles. Buy a 5 gallon bucket for
two square, cheaper the 3 singles if you can even find them.


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On 10/6/2010 6:39 PM, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Grrr- I knew it was getting close& had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak& it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. [I'm in NY& winter is close& I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money& time?

Thanks-
Jim

Bite the bullet and pay to get it changed out now. They'll be in and out
in a week, and come the January blizzards, you will be dry and happy.
Nothing is more permanent than a temporary repair, and there will always
be some reason why you have to put it off. On a 30 year old roof, if
that section has failed, other sections are not far behind. I know you
wanna do it yourself and save money, but what is your time worth? And
how much income will you lose if you have to take off work and deal with
the next leak when the snow is flying?

--
aem sends...

"Colbyt" wrote:
-snip-

If appearance does not matter any of the roll on fiberated mobile home roof
sealers will buy you a year or two. KoolSeal is the top of the line product
but Lowes sells a generic for about half the price. Pour it on and spread
with a broom. May need to repeat over shingles. Buy a 5 gallon bucket for
two square, cheaper the 3 singles if you can even find them.

Thanks- I think that's the direction I'm headed. Rain should stop
by tomorrow. Saturday it should be dry.

The worse it looks the more likely I am to get to the whole roof right
away next spring.

Jim

aemeijers wrote:

-snip-

Bite the bullet and pay to get it changed out now.

I'd do that if I knew what I wanted for the whole roof. I just
don't want rush a decision now that I'll just have to do again in the
spring. I might go with metal shingles, or just stick with
asphalt-- and have no idea what style or even color I'll go with if I
do asphalt again.

They'll be in and out
in a week, and come the January blizzards, you will be dry and happy.

The blizzards aren't bad-- it is those thaws in between that wreak
havoc. This has a south exposure so ice dams aren't usually a
problem.

Nothing is more permanent than a temporary repair, and there will always
be some reason why you have to put it off. On a 30 year old roof, if
that section has failed, other sections are not far behind. I know you
wanna do it yourself and save money, but what is your time worth? And
how much income will you lose if you have to take off work and deal with
the next leak when the snow is flying?

My boss lets me take all the time I want for home repairs &
improvements. Actually that's why I'm retired and she's still
working.g

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

Grrr- I knew it was getting close & had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak & it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. [I'm in NY & winter is close & I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Thanks-
Jim

One problem that you will have is not only trying to fix the existing
leaks, but with a 30 YEAR OLD roof, fixing all the new leaks created
walking around. I've seen how brittle they get in 20 years. Can't imagine
30.

On Oct 6, 6:39*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. * * Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Hey Jim. The tar is a waste of time, money and effort. Rip the roof
now, see what you're up against, repair any sheathing that needs it,
then cover it up with self-adhesive self-sealing underlayment. Use
the granulated stuff and it'll get you through the winter no problem.
Come the spring you can just start roofing.

R

PS I apparently have some posting gremlins munching my posts. So let
me know if this doesn't come through.

On Oct 7, 7:51*pm, Red Green wrote:
Jim Elbrecht wrote :





Grrr- *I knew it was getting close & had planned on doing it in 3-4
years, but mother nature says I need to do my roof sooner.

A small section, less than 2 squares total, has started to leak & it
looks like it is all pretty weak along the eaves end. * *I don't see
any holes, but several shingles are cracked. * It is in a closed in
ceiling so finding the exact leak isn't feasible.

I have been looking at options for the whole roof [maybe 10 squares]
and hate to jump into something now that I'll want to change when I do
the whole thing next year. * [I'm in NY & winter is close & I've just
got too many irons in the fire right now.] * *I'm considering some of
the metal shingles. * If I use them on the main roof, I'll want to do
this porch, too as it is right at the entrance of the house.

So I want to throw a 6-7 month patch on some 30 year old asphalt
shingles.

I imagine there are good tars that will go on in 50 degree weather and
hold up for the winter. * * Any suggestions?

Or a better approach that will minimize wasted money & time?

Thanks-
Jim

One problem that you will have is not only trying to fix the existing
leaks, but with a 30 YEAR OLD roof, fixing all the new leaks created
walking around. I've seen how brittle they get in 20 years. Can't imagine
30.

I too would bite the bullet and re-shingle. Failing that, a roof
repair company should be able to do a torch-on patch over the affected
area. This will get you thru the winter.

Red Green wrote:
-snip-

One problem that you will have is not only trying to fix the existing
leaks, but with a 30 YEAR OLD roof, fixing all the new leaks created
walking around. I've seen how brittle they get in 20 years. Can't imagine
30.

It's actually in pretty good shape. Southern exposure - but shaded
in the summer. 95% of the stones are still on the shingles- even
where another section of the roof drops rain on it. No wind to speak
of here as we're in a bit of a gully. All the tabs are flat and
none are missing. If some ice guard had been installed back in the
day, I'd probably get a few more years out of it.

Good news is I don't have to get on it. It is long and narrow--
only 10' deep at its deepest. And the eaves are only 8' off the
ground, so I can 'lean and reach' off a step ladder for that section.
The rest is only 7' deep. The worst of it seems to be the first
few courses, so I'll be able to give them a good layer easily from the
ladder.

Jim

On Oct 8, 8:35*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Red Green wrote:

-snip-



One problem that you will have is not only trying to fix the existing
leaks, but with a 30 YEAR OLD roof, fixing all the new leaks created
walking around. I've seen how brittle they get in 20 years. Can't imagine
30.

It's actually in pretty good shape. * *Southern exposure - but shaded
in the summer. * *95% of the stones are still on the shingles- even
where another section of the roof drops rain on it. *No wind to speak
of here as we're in a bit of a gully. * * All the tabs are flat and
none are missing. * If some ice guard had been installed back in the
day, I'd probably get a few more years out of it.

Good news is I don't have to get on it. * *It is long and narrow--
only 10' deep at its deepest. * *And the eaves are only 8' off the
ground, so I can 'lean and reach' off a step ladder for that section.
The rest is only 7' deep. * * * The worst of it seems to be the first
few courses, so I'll be able to give them a good layer easily from the
ladder.

How about just ripping the roof and putting down Ice Guard (or
approved equal) over the whole roof? In the Spring you'll be ready
to go.

R

RicodJour wrote:

-snip-

How about just ripping the roof and putting down Ice Guard (or
approved equal) over the whole roof? In the Spring you'll be ready
to go.

I thought about that for a bit-- but you know how that stuff goes. . .
One day to do the job. . . but then you get it off and decide to
replace some plywood-- notice a 2x that needs replacing. . . mess up
some flashing. . . By then I'm rushing because I've got too many
other projects going right now.

I decided I'll trust the $50 tar and 3-4 hours invested now so I can
leisurely decide what I want on the whole roof and hire the works out
next spring. I'm probably not going to do the main roof-- it is 2
1/2 stories up and too steep to walk on.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

RicodJour wrote:

-snip-

How about just ripping the roof and putting down Ice Guard (or
approved equal) over the whole roof? In the Spring you'll be ready
to go.

I thought about that for a bit-- but you know how that stuff goes. . .
One day to do the job. . . but then you get it off and decide to
replace some plywood-- notice a 2x that needs replacing. . . mess up
some flashing. . .

Noooooo!? Really? That stuff really happens to you? :-)

By then I'm rushing because I've got too many
other projects going right now.

I decided I'll trust the $50 tar and 3-4 hours invested now so I can
leisurely decide what I want on the whole roof and hire the works out
next spring. I'm probably not going to do the main roof-- it is 2
1/2 stories up and too steep to walk on.

Jim

On Fri, 08 Oct 2010 22:09:53 GMT, Red Green
wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

RicodJour wrote:

-snip-

How about just ripping the roof and putting down Ice Guard (or
approved equal) over the whole roof? In the Spring you'll be ready
to go.

I thought about that for a bit-- but you know how that stuff goes. . .
One day to do the job. . . but then you get it off and decide to
replace some plywood-- notice a 2x that needs replacing. . . mess up
some flashing. . .

Noooooo!? Really? That stuff really happens to you? :-)


That's really a coincidence. The same thing happens when I get near
anything.