In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

"Brent" wrote in message
...
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

If you want standard incandescent, you want a "rough service" lamp. They
have a more durable filament and can withstand shock and vibration. Don't
get a drip of water on one when it's hot though, it'll explode. Here is a
link:
http://www.superiorlighting.com/Prod...googleproducts

On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:24:49 +0000, Brent wrote:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W bulbs from ACE?

Have a look here

:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Backlight.html

On 2010-08-02, Brent wrote:

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light.

Works for me. I used three lights (150W incandescent) with same
cheapo alum reflectors ($7 ea) for illuminating items for sale. No
problems except for very shiny round black items like rifle scopes.
Took a lot of angles and moving of lights. Otherwise, no problems
with exposure.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Ya gotta be smarter than the tool.

nb

On Aug 2, 5:24*pm, Brent beemdoub...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban incandescents.

I don't use one, but it might fit the bill for you.
http://www.harborfreight.com/portabl...ght-66433.html
On sale, ten bucks. Somewhat rugged.

The LED one with 45 LED or something. Much less satisfying. Throws a
spot on the far wall, and doesn't light up the area.

Usually when I take pics, the camera flash does a good job.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Brent" wrote in
message ...
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy
lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to
augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

On 8/2/10 6:27 PM, in article
, "Rich"
wrote:

On Aug 2, 5:24*pm, Brent beemdoub...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban incandescents.

Some of your friends, Rich? Ask Tim the Tool Man...

"Brent" wrote in message
...
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They have
their own reflector. WW

On Aug 2, 9:54*pm, "WW" wrote:
"Brent" wrote in message

...





In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They have
their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus a flood may
work without quiote so high a wattage.

On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 22:21:34 GMT, notbob wrote:

I used three lights (150W incandescent) with same
cheapo alum reflectors ($7 ea) for illuminating items for sale. No
problems except for very shiny round black items like rifle scopes.
Took a lot of angles and moving of lights.

Exactly! Each shot, I hold the light or clamp it to something and a lot of
stuff on a car is dark black so it takes a LOT of light to get the contrast
I need.

Where do you get your bulbs?

Do they break on you a lot?

On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:18:05 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually when I take pics, the camera flash does a good job.

In the intracacies of the engine, the camera flash can't throw the light we
need into all the spaces we need for a good shot.

That's why it has to be hand held and clampable .

The incandescents in the aluminum reflector work fine; they just break a
lot.

On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:54:53 -0600, WW wrote:

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They have
their own reflector. WW

Are they rugged?

On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 01:16:24 -0400, BobS wrote:

You trying to melt the car...?

It DOES get pretty hot. Too hot to touch most of the time. But the light is
good. While it lasts.

On 8/3/2010 3:04 AM, Brent wrote:
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 20:18:05 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Usually when I take pics, the camera flash does a good job.

In the intracacies of the engine, the camera flash can't throw the light we
need into all the spaces we need for a good shot.

That's why it has to be hand held and clampable .

The incandescents in the aluminum reflector work fine; they just break a
lot.

May be more than you want to spend but a ring flash is made for this
sort of thing. The Sigma EM-140 works fine for $379. If you need
something more powerful the AlienBees ABR800 is 20 bucks more, but plugs
into the wall and is larger and bulkier and without any automation. For
close to double the price you can go with the Nikon R1C1 (apparently the
D5000 flash doesn't work as commander--if it did you could use the R1
for not much more than the Sigma or Alien Bees) which gives you a little
more control of shadows but is on a par with the Sigma for power.

Note by the way that the Sigma does _not_ work as a commander for
anything but the EM500 (on Canon anyway--I don't know if the Nikon
version has the same problem).

There is a bottom-feeder Chinese ringlight that is sold under the
"Bower", "Phoenix", and other brands for around 100 bucks--apparently
_if_ you get a good one they work fine but you may have to go through
several of them to get a good one.

On Aug 2, 10:32*pm, "RBM" wrote:

If you want standard incandescent, you want a "rough service" lamp. They
have a more durable filament *and can withstand shock and vibration. Don't
get a drip of water on one when it's hot though, it'll explode. Here is a
link:http://www.superiorlighting.com/Prod...uctCode=15458-...

I was expecting this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZcJtcfDAqA

DanP

On Aug 3, 9:51*am, "J. Clarke" wrote:

May be more than you want to spend but a ring flash is made for this
sort of thing. *The Sigma EM-140 works fine for $379. *If you need

You can buy a lot of light bulbs for that money.

DanP

On 8/3/2010 5:23 AM, DanP wrote:
On Aug 3, 9:51 am, "J. wrote:

May be more than you want to spend but a ring flash is made for this
sort of thing. The Sigma EM-140 works fine for $379. If you need

You can buy a lot of light bulbs for that money.

You can buy a lot of light bulbs for the price of a digital camera too.
So what?

On 8/3/2010 5:23 AM, DanP wrote:
On Aug 3, 9:51 am, "J. wrote:

May be more than you want to spend but a ring flash is made for this
sort of thing. The Sigma EM-140 works fine for $379. If you need

You can buy a lot of light bulbs for that money.

126 200 watt bulbs from Lowes or 43 rough service 200 watt bulbs from
bulbs.com. Or if you go with the Chinese knockoff then it's 13 rough
service bulbs or 36 Lowes bulbs.

And that leaves aside the convenience factor. With the ring light you
just point and shoot, no need to move lights for every shot.

"Brent" wrote in message
...
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?]

Not quite an answer to your question, but I learned a technique for
photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark
garage and a tripod or magnetic clamp are a must) and then use a powerful
light and move it all around the area to be imaged.

I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour
per charge with no cords. They clip into the same sort of clamps used in
tungsten light reflectors, too.

You'll see an improvement right away. The dark shadows thrown by hoses,
levers, rods and wires disappear because they are "filled in" as you move
the light source around the area of interest. .

The 100 LED flashlights are also invaluable in microphotography - they are
like miniature umbrella lights. They also run very cool compared to any
incandescent light source.

--
Bobby G.

In article ,
Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:24:49 +0000, Brent wrote:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W bulbs from ACE?

Have a look here

:http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Backlight.html


Note that some of those bulbs have operating hour ratings measured in
single-digit hours.


Has anyone tried halogrn worklights?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
--
Al Dykes
News is something someone wants to suppress, everything else is advertising.
- Lord Northcliffe, publisher of the Daily Mail

"Brent" wrote in message
.. .
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

Try
http://www.amazon.com/Feit-Electric-ESL40TN-Fluorescent-High-Wattage/dp/B001AZOV9K/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I264IO3B7XTDLN&colid =MHO1E7F2PSKN
in cheap 10" flood reflectors from Lowes, etc.

They are 6500K so you will get accurate color rendition. I use them
for artistic photography and they work well.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

On Tue, 3 Aug 2010 07:20:36 -0400, Robert Green wrote:

time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark
garage and a tripod or magnetic clamp are a must) and then use a powerful
light and move it all around the area to be imaged.


That's a GREAT idea!

The problem with photographing automotive repairs is that the shadows are
horrid. I must try that.

Thanks for all the sturdy bulb ideas; I'll keep reading!

On 2010-08-03, Brent wrote:

Where do you get your bulbs?

Do they break on you a lot?

I use plain ol' table lamp incandescents (150W), the kind you get at
any supermkt or h/w store. They were all I could afford. Never once
broke or burnt one out. Still have 'em. I don't recall which brand,
but look like this GE:

http://tinyurl.com/379k79j

I also never took pictures as big as a car. All my ebay items were no
bigger than a shoe box so my photo stage and light placement was
typically an area no greater than 3 ft apart for the side lights.

nb

["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]

photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark

I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour

Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?

Thanks for the great tip.

nb

? "Rich" ?????? ??? ??????
...
On Aug 2, 5:24 pm, Brent beemdoub...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

:Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban
:incandescents.
They are already banned in Europe. Production has ceased and what we have
are leftovers. I watched a conversation between an old lady who asked for an
100 W bulb and was told they were phased out and she could only get CFLs or
a plain 75W.


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

? "jamesgangnc" ?????? ??? ??????
...
On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" wrote:
"Brent" wrote in message

...





In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

:Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus
:a flood may
:work without quiote so high a wattage.
I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are
almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA.
They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one
that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too
(at least on this side of the pond).


--
Tzortzakakis Dimitrios
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
hordad AT otenet DOT gr

Al Dykes wrote:
In article ,
Jeff The Drunk wrote:
On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 21:24:49 +0000, Brent wrote:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy
lighting conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to
augment the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in
an aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light.
I change the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't
work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are
hot, they break the filament if you drop or move the light
suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the
"regular" 200W bulbs from ACE?

Have a look here

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Backlight.html


Note that some of those bulbs have operating hour ratings measured
in single-digit hours.


Has anyone tried halogrn worklights?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Yes. I have two of these sets (they were $14.95 when I bought them
IIRC).
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...block Type=G1

They make a lot of light, 500 watts each lamp head, two speeds each,
so the 250-500-750-1000 specification is for a pair (set). For
halogen, a lot of light means a lot of heat.

The idea of a collapsible stand - lamps are at about five feet when
the pole is fully extended - is good, but the execution is lacking:
the "locks" don't, very well, so it takes a firm twist to avoid the
lamps sinking after they are set up.

The legs fold, but not easily. The head bar is removable with just one
pin, yielding a more portable light source, but one that requires an
arm that doesn't tire, or a table for the subject and the lamp.

I'm happy that they are here for emergencies, but the mentioned
shortcomings and the heat mean I find myself looking for other
solutions to lighting challenges.

Did I mention they are - ouch! - hot?

--
Frank ess

In rec.photo.digital Tzortzakakis Dimitris wrote:

? "jamesgangnc" ?????? ??? ??????
...
On Aug 2, 9:54 pm, "WW" wrote:
"Brent" wrote in message
...

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW- Hide quoted text -

:Try some outdoor floods. Mioght be a bit hardier. Plus
:a flood may
:work without quiote so high a wattage.
I've seen some very high wattage CFLs used by some of my clients, they are
almost 1' long and, like, 85 W. I don't know if you can get them in the USA.
They are not very expensive, I think like 40 euros, but if you break one
that's money down the drain. There are also excellent CFL spotlights, too
(at least on this side of the pond).

The big powerful CFLs you mention are possibly those made by
Megaman. In the domestic medium size ES fitting they only go up to
60W, a tungsten light equivalent output of 300W with a better colour
temperature. In GES fitting they go much larger, although all but the
smallest 80W need separate ballast units included in the power
supply. But they take a while to warm up and produce full power
output.

Mains powered tungsten halogens, if you can still find them in
domestic ES fittings, are robust, long lasting, more powerful light
output per watt than ordinary tungsten, a higher colour temperature,
and possibly the nicest flattest colour power spectrum of any electric
source except xenon.

--
Chris Malcolm
Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.

In rec.photo.digital Brent wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Why not use a remote flashgun or two? Much more portable, much more
light, only downside is you'd have to do a bit of learning if you
haven't used that kind of thing before. It can also be cheap if you
buy cheap Hong Kong radio flash triggers and second hand film-era
flashguns, but you have to use those in fully manual flash and camera
modes which involves some more learning.

--
Chris Malcolm
Warning: none of the above is indisputable fact.

"notbob" wrote in message
...
["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]

photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a
dark

I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the
same
color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an
hour

Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?

Thanks for the great tip.

nb

I used 4 secs because that was the slowest shutter speed on my camera. I
got to be pretty quick with the lights. Another advantage of a timed
exposure is that you can stop down the lens to get more depth of field. My
best advice is to experiment and determine your own times. You can use a
neutral density or a polarizing filter to let you use longer shutter speeds
if you find you can't do enought light painting in 4 secs.

You'll be amazed at how it eliminates the shadows that plague normal engine
compartment photography. I switched to the 100 LED flashlights because they
allowed me to illuminate areas of interest slightly more than the rest of
the photo. It's like "in-camera" dodging and burning without the enlarger
or darkroom!

--
Bobby G.

In article , RBM wrote:

"Brent" wrote in message
.. .
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change
the directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W bulbs from ACE?

If you want standard incandescent, you want a "rough service" lamp. They
have a more durable filament and can withstand shock and vibration. Don't
get a drip of water on one when it's hot though, it'll explode.

Rough service incandescents produce light in less quantity and of a
yellower color than standard incandescents do. One reason is that the
filament has a different shape that conducts more heat to the bulb's fill
gas. Another is that rough service lamps are generally designed for
longer life expectancy.

You may need to use more lamps or ones of wattage higher than 200 watts.

On the other hand, there are 250W 3200K "photoflood" lamps. They are
known as PH/250A23 or as ECA. They have a multisupported C9 filament like
rough service lamps have. They produce 6,300 lumens, same as a "standard"
300 watt 120V 750 hour incandescent with the usual CC-6 coiled-coil
filament. Their main drawback is a short life expectancy of 30 hours.

Then again, the 300 watt incandescents may be good. Their CC-6
filaments usually have filament supports, while I seem to think that 200W
incandescents with CC-6 filaments lack filament supports.

- Don Klipstein )

In ,
Rich wrote:
On Aug 2, 5:24*pm, Brent beemdoub...@Use-Author-Supplied-
Address.invalid wrote:
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Enjoy them while you can, before the envirokooks ban incandescents.

The usual 200W incandescents and most 150 watt ones rated 750 hours will
not be affected by the upcoming USA incandescent ban that is scheduled to
take effect in stages from 2012 to 2014. This ban has a lot of
exceptions:

http://members.misty.com/don/incban.html

- Don Klipstein )

On 2010-08-02 14:24:49 -0700, Brent
said:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

Check the Flashpoint Cool Light 4 system.


http://www.amazon.com/Flashpoint-Lig.../dp/B003B0UQ32

This is without a stand.

If you need a stand Adorama has both;
http://www.adorama.com/FPCL4K.html

Using this lighting you will probably have to make some white balance
adjustments if you are shooting jpeg only. Shooting RAW will give you
greater flexibility with WB.




--
Regards,

Savageduck

"Brent" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 2 Aug 2010 19:54:53 -0600, WW wrote:

I have some "PhotoFlood" lamps I used with old film movie cameras. They
have
their own reflector. WW

Are they rugged?


YES ... WW

"Brent" wrote in message
...
In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

If "color balance" isn't high on your priority list, you might want to
consider using compact flouescent bulbs. Use the type that has a plactic
(not glass) glove over the flouescent tube. You can also use CF with a
built in reflector.

This are pretty expensive compared to incadescent lamps but will last a LONG
time, don't break easily, and don't generate much heat. You don't have to
worry about burning yourself either.


Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot,
they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular"
200W
bulbs from ACE?

You can get SUPER CFs that put out a fair amount of light. Again, some of
these have a plastic shell on the outside.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Brent
saying something like:

In a Toyota forum I write up automotive repair DIYs under lousy lighting
conditions (like many people do).

Only I use a good camera (Nikon D5000) and good back lighting to augment
the camera flash.

It's cheap. I buy 200 watt bulbs from ACE Hardware and put it in an
aluminum light fixture with clamps so I can secure the light. I change the
directdion of light constantly so a stand wouldn't work.

Problem is, I bust a bulb almost every time. When these bulbs are hot, they
break the filament if you drop or move the light suddenly.

Is there a better high lumens bulb that is sturdier than the "regular" 200W
bulbs from ACE?

You can get cheap (20$) 12Volt 55W HID headlamp bulbs on ebay that pump
out 3500 lumens at colour temps from 4500 to 9000K. All you need to do
is procure a spotlight unit from the same source and mount it. Feed it
from a suitable 12V PSU and Bob's yer Uncle.

The same HID setup in studio lighting will normally cost hundreds for a
single lamp.

ktos wrote:
Tulip bulb.
Only when properly cooked.
Raw bulbs only useful for b/w pics.

notbob wrote:
["Followup-To:" header set to alt.home.repair.]

photographing engines and complex three-dimensional objects called light
painting. You set the camera on a time exposure of about 4 seconds (a dark

I used to use tungsten bulbs, but I found that 100 LED showerhead
flashlights are perfect for this work as the ones I have are almost the same
color temp as daylight and emit broad, shadow free light for over an hour

Wow! What a great idea. Is 4 secs long enough to get that light
moved to all the places needed. What's the max exposure time?

As long as your camera allows, really as long as you get the exposure right.
You need to experiment a bit to get the shutter speed, aperture and lighting
right.

Here's one of my cat with a 10 second exposu

http://www.ollieclark.com/shuttersto...cat_small.jpeg

This was done with a pretty poor handheld torch. I think you'd get much
better results with a better light source. And cats aren't really the
best subjects for "light painting" because they move...

Cheers,

Ollie