I've been refinishing exterior wood with Thompson's water seal. I had 2
different methods for preparation:

1) Where I could remove the wood, I sanded it down to adios the grayed
wood.

2) On the unremovable gate, I used a mixture of tri-sodium phosphate
and bleach to remove as much gray as possible.

After application, the gate is markedly lighter than the rest of it. It
seems to my eye that I could add a red stain and that might match.

Any ideas on how to proceed?

--
Uno

On 7/29/2010 3:08 PM, Uno wrote:
I've been refinishing exterior wood with Thompson's water seal. I had 2
different methods for preparation:

1) Where I could remove the wood, I sanded it down to adios the grayed
wood.

2) On the unremovable gate, I used a mixture of tri-sodium phosphate and
bleach to remove as much gray as possible.

After application, the gate is markedly lighter than the rest of it. It
seems to my eye that I could add a red stain and that might match.

Any ideas on how to proceed?


I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water
repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.

Uno wrote in :

I've been refinishing exterior wood with Thompson's water seal. I had 2
different methods for preparation:

1) Where I could remove the wood, I sanded it down to adios the grayed
wood.

2) On the unremovable gate, I used a mixture of tri-sodium phosphate
and bleach to remove as much gray as possible.

After application, the gate is markedly lighter than the rest of it. It
seems to my eye that I could add a red stain and that might match.

Any ideas on how to proceed?




I find simply scrubbing with water and a stiff brush works excellently to
return PT wood to like-new green. That gray is not the wood aging or
fading, it's just atmospheric dirt on the surface.

Stain is probably the best approach, but you might have to apply two coats
to the lighter areas.

--
Tegger

dadiOH wrote:

Just wait, it will darken all by itself.


No, it won't. What I've treated has gotten lighter as it has dried.

I wonder if our differences in region matter here. I assume that the OH
in your nym means you hail from Ohio, where I grew up. Things don't rot
around here the way the way they do there. It's taken a lot of effort
for me to retool to this environment, where you're more likely to be
working on a swamp cooler than anything else. (The 1/4" compression
that feeds these on flat roofs is one of the most fallible building
systems I've ever seen. (=job security for handymen))

I also got to take a crack at you for Boehner. Might we Ohioans not
have a predilection for orange and red? My fighting falcons of BGSU
were orange and brown, the Buckeyes of course are red, and you guys send
an oompa loompa to stop reform in Washington.

There's a whole half-aisle full of exterior wood treatments at home
depot. I've got a redder and darker one that I've already used for this
client. Can a person mix them?

--
Uno

"Like destroying an ant with a nuclear weapon." --John Boehner on
watereed-down wall street reform

Frank wrote:

I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water
repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.


I guess I wonder what "contains" what.

Can one add stain to a sealant solution?

Can one add sealant to a stain solution?
--
Uno

On 7/29/2010 10:01 PM, Uno wrote:
Frank wrote:

I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water
repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.


I guess I wonder what "contains" what.

Can one add stain to a sealant solution?

Can one add sealant to a stain solution?

Thompson's water seal can come with stain or can be clear.

On Jul 30, 7:25*am, Frank wrote:
On 7/29/2010 10:01 PM, Uno wrote:

Frank wrote:

I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water
repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.

I guess I wonder what "contains" what.

Can one add stain to a sealant solution?

Can one add sealant to a stain solution?

Thompson's water seal can come with stain or can be clear.

Thompson's water seal is crap. Just about everyone in the product
evaluation business says so. Any clear sealer is the least effective
and even the best ones only last a few years. Semitransparent is a
good compromise between longevity and something that still lets you
have that wood grain look. It will last 2 to 3 times longer than a
clear sealer. Opaque will easily last the longest but few people like
the visual results on decks. I alway use semi on all our decks.

On Jul 30, 4:46*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 30, 7:25*am, Frank wrote:

On 7/29/2010 10:01 PM, Uno wrote:

Frank wrote:

I use stain containing seals. Thompson's is not that great as water
repellent is lost in a year, but color will remain.

I guess I wonder what "contains" what.

Can one add stain to a sealant solution?

Can one add sealant to a stain solution?

Thompson's water seal can come with stain or can be clear.

Thompson's water seal is crap. *Just about everyone in the product
evaluation business says so.

Amen to that. California where I lived banned it years ago, along
with other good products (that are bad for the environment, one
assumes?). Example below: OT blast, not about water seal:

I used to repaint my concrete front porch every year. Suddenly the
oil-based paint I used to apply is unavailable. I had to buy an
interim product for conditioning the floor to accept the NEW
"acceptable" product. So two coats, a LOT of hassle moving heavy
planters, much time lost, a LOT of hassle.

and even the best ones only last a few years. *Semitransparent is a
good compromise between longevity and something that still lets you
have that wood grain look. *It will last 2 to 3 times longer than a
clear sealer. *Opaque will easily last the longest but few people like
the visual results on decks. *I alway use semi on all our decks.

I gave up and just painted the damn deck. Not as nice, of course,
but less hassle, esp since it's in back and not used for entertainment
anyway.