Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

You could check the voltage to the motor at startup. I would take the
motor apart and see if the.... don't know what it's called... the
centrifugal switch and contacts are working properly. It is what powers
the start winding then with speed it switches to the run winding.

In article ,
Tony wrote:

Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

You could check the voltage to the motor at startup. I would take the
motor apart and see if the.... don't know what it's called... the
centrifugal switch and contacts are working properly. It is what powers
the start winding then with speed it switches to the run winding.

Yeah, I'd be suspecting that centrifugal switch myself. Took me a while
to chase down an identical symptom on an air compressor motor a while
back, and that's what I eventually found as the culprit.

On Jul 20, 9:29*am, Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. *Other times, it starts
and runs normally. *This is not a case of clogged skimmers. *Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. *Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. *Any
suggestions?

Is it old it could be worn and drawing excess amps on startup, a clamp
on anp meter will show its amp draw, a short is possible, test
everything

On Jul 20, 7:29*am, Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. *Other times, it starts
and runs normally. *This is not a case of clogged skimmers. *Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. *Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. *Any
suggestions?

short answer
Probably the centrifugal switch..........


explanation.......
I've been confronted with this situation twice; once about 40 years
ago and a couple years ago.

Different motors, different pools (thus completely) different setups.

The first case a lizard had crawled into the motor at night and his
tail got into the swtich.

The second time it was just that the contacts were a bit burn &
pitted.
I showed my neighbor how to dis-assemble the motor and run some crocus
cloth over the contacts.
Blow the mechanism and re-assemble.....been working fine for a couple
years now.

You only have to expose the switch, you don't have to remove it from
the motor rotor.
The contacts can be easily tuned up in place. The switch is spring
loaded so I recommend against messing with the switch assembly.
Just open the contacts slighty to get the point file or some crocus
cloth between them.

Your motor is new so that adds a bit to the mystery. But I've had new
motors be problematic too (case misalignment that caused excessive
starting torque)

I'd try some compressed air into the end of the motor before a
complete R&R.


Let us know how it works out.

cheers
Bob

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Jul 20, 9:29 am, Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

Is it old...........

============

Reading problems, eh? He clearly answered that question in his original
message.

Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?


*Is your pool pump motor on a GFI circuit breaker? Is this an above ground
pool?

"Ivan" wrote in message
...
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

Does it have a starting capacitor? If so that could be bad. WW

Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

Take it back. Sure, it's out of warranty, but a reputable supplier isn't
going to insist on the fine print for a few weeks either way.

All they can do is say "No!" Maybe beat you, but that's unlikely.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Tony wrote:

Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?
You could check the voltage to the motor at startup. I would take the
motor apart and see if the.... don't know what it's called... the
centrifugal switch and contacts are working properly. It is what powers
the start winding then with speed it switches to the run winding.

Yeah, I'd be suspecting that centrifugal switch myself. Took me a while
to chase down an identical symptom on an air compressor motor a while
back, and that's what I eventually found as the culprit.

I once bought a $9000 antique juke box for $5000 because the same
problem. Made it better too when they had a guy out to fix it the week
before and he couldn't figure it out. He told them it was shot. Fixed
the motor and a couple more little things within an hour of getting it
to the shop and had it playing away. I actually didn't diagnose the
problem before I got it home, I thought is was going to be a lot of
work. Got lucky!

On Jul 20, 9:55*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. *Other times, it starts
and runs normally. *This is not a case of clogged skimmers. *Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. *Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. *Any
suggestions?

Take it back. Sure, it's out of warranty, but a reputable supplier isn't
going to insist on the fine print for a few weeks either way.

All they can do is say "No!" Maybe beat you, but that's unlikely.


Don;t know how many hp this motor is, but a typical 1 hp pool pump
motor should cost about 1/2 that price. Besides the suggestions
already made, you could take the motor to a local electric motor
repair shop.

wrote:
On Jul 20, 9:55 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.
The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?
Take it back. Sure, it's out of warranty, but a reputable supplier isn't
going to insist on the fine print for a few weeks either way.

All they can do is say "No!" Maybe beat you, but that's unlikely.


Don;t know how many hp this motor is, but a typical 1 hp pool pump
motor should cost about 1/2 that price. Besides the suggestions
already made, you could take the motor to a local electric motor
repair shop.

I often see good prices in surplus electronics catalogs. This is old,
don't know if it's still available. They may have other different ones
now also.

3/4hp explosion proof motor $99.99 (A.O. Smith)
# 420-0368
1-800-344-4465

Ivan wrote:
Sometimes, when I start my pool pump motor, it turns for a few
revolutions, then pops the circuit breaker. Other times, it starts
and runs normally. This is not a case of clogged skimmers. Before
the breaker pops, I can run the electric light in the pool shed--the
breaker only pops when I switch the motor on.

The motor is ju-u-u-st out of warranty --installed May '09. Before I
spend $370 replacing it I want to be sure it's the motor and not some
electrical glitch in my wiring, or a problem with the pool pump. Any
suggestions?

I have a 220V compressor that would cycle well for awhile, then randomly trip
the breaker. It finally quit starting. Turn on the breaker, and it would just
buzz loudly. I cleaned the starter switch contacts - no help. Tracked down the
bad starter capacitor and replaced that, both problems seem to be solved. $13 at
Grainger for the part.

You can check the capacitors with an ohmmeter. A good one will show a gradual
reading rise from when you touch the leads to the capacitor. Reverse the leads,
and the reading goes negative, then gradually climbs into the positive readings,
until it finally reaches the bleed resister value, or off scale if no resister.
A bad Cap will change quickly if open, it not at all is shorted.