The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top of
the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it must
have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the top
of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?

Me wrote:
The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top
of the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it
must have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the
top of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?

heat doesn't affect latex or silicone caulk. it has to be removed. we can't
tell what kind you have. you might ask your installer.

On Jul 13, 3:20*pm, Me wrote:
The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top of
the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it must
have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the top
of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?

The way I install flashing on a chimney is to chisel out some of the
mortar and insert the flashing between the bricks. Then replace the
mortar with that concrete repair stuff in a caulk tube. I don't find
that flashing can be caulked directly to bricks and not need
revisiting regularly.

On Jul 13, 3:34*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 13, 3:20*pm, Me wrote:

The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top of
the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it must
have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the top
of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?

The way I install flashing on a chimney is to chisel out some of the
mortar and insert the flashing between the bricks. *Then replace the
mortar with that concrete repair stuff in a caulk tube. *I don't find
that flashing can be caulked directly to bricks and not need
revisiting regularly.

Here's a picture

http://education.nachi.org/images/up...y_flashing.JPG

On Jul 13, 3:34*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 13, 3:20*pm, Me wrote:

The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top of
the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it must
have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the top
of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?

The way I install flashing on a chimney is to chisel out some of the
mortar and insert the flashing between the bricks. *Then replace the
mortar with that concrete repair stuff in a caulk tube. *I don't find
that flashing can be caulked directly to bricks and not need
revisiting regularly.

Here's a picture

http://education.nachi.org/images/up...y_flashing.JPG

On Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:20:36 -0400, Me wrote:

The back porch leaks water during a particularly heavy rain storm. New
shingles were put on about a year ago by a professional roofer and it
didn't leak until I hammered up ceiling boards to the inside of the
porch just recently.

On inspection, there is a thick bead of black caulking along the top of
the flashing where it lies against the brick of the house but it must
have microscopic cracks in it to cause so many leaks.

If I took a heat gun and ran it along the bead of caulking along the top
of the flashing, would it melt enough to seal any cracks? Or is it
necessary to remove the old caulking first then apply new?

Any more ideas, particularly better ones?
Get some "blue seal" self adhesive, self sealing flashing. Very much
like ice-guard - or some torch-down roof membrane.