Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my
inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? |
#2
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 8:16*am, stryped wrote:
As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly. |
#3
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 05:45:57 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc
wrote: On Apr 28, 8:16*am, stryped wrote: As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly. I would also be concerned about years of dust, a few bird nests and a squirrel or two making the sheets heavy enough to pull through the screws and come down on my head. Metal makes a good roof-- and maybe even fair siding. But i think using it for interior walls and ceilings is a bad idea. Jim |
#4
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 7:45*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Apr 28, 8:16*am, stryped wrote: As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly. I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy. |
#5
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 9:44*am, stryped wrote:
On Apr 28, 7:45*am, jamesgangnc wrote: On Apr 28, 8:16*am, stryped wrote: As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? Siding installed on a ceiling with 48 inches between the joists wil sag badly. I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - You have trusses that are not capable of supporting drywall and are being used for a roof? Sounds like your overall plan was a bad one. You built something that is not really suitable to what you want the final product to be. Imho, siding installed as a ceiling is going to look like crap. And is about the least insulating thing you could do if you're still trying to heat and cool this garage. How about suspension ceiling. You can hang it just a few inches below your trusses and you'll get a little insulating factor out of the tiles. |
#6
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 10:22*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
You have trusses that are not capable of supporting drywall and are being used for a roof? *Sounds like your overall plan was a bad one. OMFG. Tell me you did not just say that... The concern is the DRYWALL, not the trusses. When they drywalled the addition on my parents' house back in 1991, the ceiling sagged between the trusses, and they were on 16" centers!!! Can you imagine hanging a drywall ceiling from trusses on 48" centers? The ceiling would look like an inverted ski mogul hill after about 24 hours. |
#7
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#8
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]() |
#9
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
stryped wrote:
.... I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy. It's done by going perpendicular across the trusses or adding purlins same way as a wall; your choice. The rigidity in metal is lengthwise across the corrugation or ridge; lengthwise it has no resistance to bending much at all and would be quite limber and difficult to install w/o support. I'd suggest go to a manufacturer's web site pick a product and get their recommendations on installation for the application envisioned (or start w/ the applications and get recommendation on product(s) _and_ installation actually makes more sense). -- |
#10
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 9:47*am, dpb wrote:
stryped wrote: ... I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy. It's done by going perpendicular across the trusses or adding purlins same way as a wall; your choice. *The rigidity in metal is lengthwise across the corrugation or ridge; lengthwise it has no resistance to bending much at all and would be quite limber and difficult to install w/o support. I'd suggest go to a manufacturer's web site pick a product and get their recommendations on installation for the application envisioned (or start w/ the applications and get recommendation on product(s) _and_ installation actually makes more sense). -- I would be going perpendicular to the trusses. I actually have small furring strips between the russes every two feet or so to hold the insulation in, but not sure if they are spaced right to use as additional nailers without it fallin gon a rib or something. |
#11
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
stryped wrote:
On Apr 28, 9:47 am, dpb wrote: stryped wrote: ... I was told by the metal supplier they do it all the time and it does not sag. The truss manufacturer says drywall is too heavy. It's done by going perpendicular across the trusses or adding purlins same way as a wall; your choice. The rigidity in metal is lengthwise across the corrugation or ridge; lengthwise it has no resistance to bending much at all and would be quite limber and difficult to install w/o support. I'd suggest go to a manufacturer's web site pick a product and get their recommendations on installation for the application envisioned (or start w/ the applications and get recommendation on product(s) _and_ installation actually makes more sense). -- I would be going perpendicular to the trusses. I actually have small furring strips between the russes every two feet or so to hold the insulation in, but not sure if they are spaced right to use as additional nailers without it fallin gon a rib or something. Again, I'd ask the manufacturer of the product in question -- it wouldn't be adequate for exterior use from wind uplift, water-sealing, etc., etc., but for simply hanging an interior ceiling panel could probably work ok since you can then fasten across the panel at the truss. It would ring like a drum, of course, over that 4-ft span but it would likely be adequate mechanically. This again, of course, would be specific to any particular product selection; undoubtedly one could find some that wouldn't have sufficient support in thinner gauges and less pronounced rib structures. I repeat myself, but the folks to answer your question are the manufacturers of the _particular_ product for the given application... -- |
#12
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 8:16*am, stryped wrote:
As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? The best way to go is to frame out the rest of your ceiling with 2x4's and put wall board on it. Particularly if this is the same garage that you want to heat/cool. |
#13
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
In article , stryped wrote:
As I posted elsewhere, I am thinking of at least installing it on my inside ceiling. Typically I think each piece overlaps the other whne going side by side by one rib. Is that correct? Stryped, have you ever heard of Google? Length wise is it supposed to overlap and does it look right if it does? I have a 30 feet long ceiling. Obviously 30 foot pieces would be ideal, but transporting it and installing it might be a problem. Also I am finding out my truses are not "exactly" 48 inches. Some 49, etc. What would be the best way to go here? http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+is+metal+siding+installed |
#14
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 10:04*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
etc. What would be the best way to go here? http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+is+metal+siding+installed Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find......... |
#15
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"cavedweller" wrote in message
... On Apr 28, 10:04 am, (Doug Miller) wrote: etc. What would be the best way to go here? http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+is+metal+siding+installed Surely, you jest. Give stryped a hint like that and he'll be back asking if he should believe what he might find......... Really...He keeps starting a new thread on the same thing , each time adding or making something up to debunk any suggestions offered...He must figure if he asks it enough he will get the answer he wants eventually...LOL...I'm done with him...LOL...Beyond help and in WAY over his head... |
#16
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Apr 28, 10:04*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
Stryped, have you ever heard of Google? Give it up. He's going to open a new thread for each nail he pounds. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Metal siding and stud spacing on walls | Home Repair | |||
Metal siding to cover masonite chimney surround? | Home Repair | |||
Somewhat OT, suggestions for cheap sources of metal siding? | Metalworking | |||
What do I use to secure metal flashing to a shingle or wood siding? | Home Repair | |||
Metal or vinyle siding | Metalworking |