I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

On Apr 23, 11:10*pm, BQ340 wrote:
On 4/23/2010 11:06 PM, Mikepier wrote:

I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). *I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

Did you try priming the pump? Some pumps don't self-prime.

MikeB

Do you mean fill the pump with water? I did that. I filled it with
water through the outlet pipe.
Unless I'm doing something wrong.

On Apr 23, 8:22*pm, Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 23, 11:10*pm, BQ340 wrote:



On 4/23/2010 11:06 PM, Mikepier wrote:

I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). *I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

Did you try priming the pump? Some pumps don't self-prime.

MikeB

Do you mean fill the pump with water? I did that. I filled it with
water through the outlet pipe.
Unless I'm doing something wrong.

You need to fill the pump and the piping all the way down to the
water.

When was the last time the well produced? What was the flow rate at
that time?
What is the capacity of the pump? hp?

Or it you don;t know those answers....Gould Model Number?

Maybe the pump capacity far exceeds the well delivery capability (the
pump is removing water faster than the surrounding rock or soil can
"resupply" it)
and the pump is "starving"?

cheers
Bob

On Apr 23, 11:38*pm, DD_BobK wrote:
On Apr 23, 8:22*pm, Mikepier wrote:





On Apr 23, 11:10*pm, BQ340 wrote:

On 4/23/2010 11:06 PM, Mikepier wrote:

I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). *I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

Did you try priming the pump? Some pumps don't self-prime.

MikeB

Do you mean fill the pump with water? I did that. I filled it with
water through the outlet pipe.
Unless I'm doing something wrong.

You need to fill the pump and the piping all the way down to the
water.

When was the last time the well produced? *What was the flow rate at
that time?
What is the capacity of the pump? *hp?

Or it you don;t know those answers....Gould Model Number?

Maybe the pump capacity far exceeds the well delivery capability (the
pump is removing water faster than the surrounding rock or soil can
"resupply" it)
and the pump is "starving"?

cheers
Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I did not remove the top cap on the well side and fill that with
water. I could try that. But there are also 2 brass plugs on the side
of the pump. Not sure what they are for.

As far as he history of the pump, I don't know. But I remember the
previous owner had a similiar pump, so I assume the well has
sufficient water supply.
From the plate , I can barely read the model # SKB713.

*From the plate , I can barely read the model # SKB713.- Hide quoted text -

Correction, that number is for the motor.

The stamp on the pump itself says "Goulds 53555"

On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:06:33 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
wrote:

I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

You need a check valve made for a inlet line. Then prime the pump.
Once done, assuming you have no leaks, it should maintain its prime
and pump properly.

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top, and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

In article , Mikepier wrote:
UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

On Apr 24, 9:36*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?

In article , Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article =
om, Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?

The union should be between the check valve and the pump -- that way, you can
open the union to remove the pump for servicing without losing the water in
the inlet pipe.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
On Apr 24, 9:36 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article
,
Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is
for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you
don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?

If you filled the inlet pipe with water, and the water didn't drain back
down the pipe, I would think that there is already a foot valve on that
pipe, down in the well. If the pipe down the well is galvanized, as it
appears above the cement, it may be that the existing foot valve is frozen
from non use.

Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.
I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,
And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.
And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?


You should have a check valve down in the well below the water table.
You should be able to fill the well pipe and it should stay full.
Another check valve is normally up near the pump.

On Apr 23, 10:00*pm, wrote:
On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 20:06:33 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier

wrote:
I recently got a used Goulds well pump. I have an existing well in my
basement that I would like to use for irrigation. This is how I hooked
it up.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mikerock...eat=directlink

The water in the pipe is about 20" below the basement floor, so I
assumed the pump should be able to suck it out with no problem, but
when I tested it out, I only get trickle of water from the outlet ( I
hooked up a hose for testing purposes). *I'm not sure if I need a
check valve also on the input side, but I had the pump on for a good
10 minutes, and it was not spitting out a lot of water. I'm sure the
connections are air tight.
So now my question is from the pics, did I hook it up right? And how
do I know if the pump is good or bad?

You need a check valve made for a inlet line. Then prime the pump.
Once done, assuming you have no leaks, it should maintain its prime
and pump properly.

Minor correction. He needs a "foot valve" (if he doesn't already have
one) - it goes on the bottom of the suction pipe.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 6:15*am, Mikepier wrote:
UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top, and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

You do NOT need a checkvalve. If you filled the pipe with water you
must already have a footvalve which is the required item.

Have you pulled up the suction pipe to exam what is on the end? It
should be a footvalve and that could be crudded up such that it isn't
passing much water.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 6:36*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I repeat, again and again and again. NO CHECK VALVE is used in such
installationjs. What is needed (and he must already have one) is a
FOOTVALVE. It goes on the bottom end of the suction pipe.
Essentially it is a "checkvalve" but from the people insisting on
using 'checkvalve' they all seem to talking about one at the top end
of the suction pipe. Any valve, shut off or check, at the top between
the suction pipe and the pump will only add uneeded restriction.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 6:36*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

Well he isn't. Usually the primping port is a pipe plug on the OUTLET
of the pump. You 'dribble' water in there until air bubbles quit
coming out then, if possible, manually turn the pump a few revs to be
sure any trapped air is out of the impeller.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 6:53*am, Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

NO, NO and NO. Don't listen to the people who have no clue about pump
operation. I'vebeen dealing with those things for most of 60 years
takign care of mine, my folks and neighbors.

What you need is a footvalve and you appartenly already have one as
you were able to fill the sucction pipe and pump. The pipe string
should be pulled and examined for air leaks and be sure the footvalve
(that is already there) is functional and not blocked.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 8:21*am, Tony wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.
I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,
And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well....

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.
And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?

You should have a check valve down in the well below the water table.
You should be able to fill the well pipe and it should stay full.
Another check valve is normally up near the pump.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well..no. There should be nothing between the pipe and the pump
except 'pipe'. A checkvalve at the pump only adds uneeded
restriction. Now there _can_ be a check valve _after_ the pump but
that is usually not done.

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 06:15:07 -0700, Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

Hmm, surely if it were filled you should at least get a brief full flow
just from the water you're primed the system with, even if something were
wrong elsewhere?

I'm not really familiar with wells either - that comment just seemed
surprising.

Oh, I can confirm that there's no check valve at the top end of our well,
incidentally, but I've never had any need to try priming ours so can't
comment on experiences there (I did have it all off while doing some
plumbing for a couple of hours last year and it spluttered a bit after
switch on, but picked up after a couple of minutes and returned to normal)

Ours is a top-side pump though, with an 80' well and jet assembly, so
perhaps a bit of a different config to yours.

cheers

Jules

In article , Harry K wrote:
On Apr 24, 6:53=A0am, Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article =
..com, Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is=
for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you =
don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

NO, NO and NO. Don't listen to the people who have no clue about pump
operation. I'vebeen dealing with those things for most of 60 years
takign care of mine, my folks and neighbors.

What you need is a footvalve and you appartenly already have one as
you were able to fill the sucction pipe and pump.

He *isn't* able to pump, Harry, that's the whole reason he's posting.

The pipe string
should be pulled and examined for air leaks and be sure the footvalve
(that is already there) is functional and not blocked.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 4:33�pm, Harry K wrote:
On Apr 24, 6:36�am, (Doug Miller) wrote:





In article , Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I repeat, again and again and again. �NO CHECK VALVE is used in such
installationjs. �What is needed (and he must already have one) is a
FOOTVALVE. �It goes on the bottom end of the suction pipe.
Essentially it is a "checkvalve" but from the people insisting on
using 'checkvalve' they all seem to talking about one at the top end
of the suction pipe. �Any valve, shut off or check, at the top between
the suction pipe and the pump will only add uneeded restriction.

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A foot valve IS a check valve. ie a "one way" valve. If your pump is
centrifugal (it most likely is) you will need a check valve at the
bottom of the suction pipe to stop the water draining back into the
well when the pump stops. It needs to be of decent quality as it is a
lot of hassle to replace it if the well is deep. A check valve in this
location is called a foot valve by some people because it is at the
foot of the pipe. You don't need a checkvalve at the top of the pipe.

Harry K wrote:
On Apr 24, 8:21 am, Tony wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Mikepier wrote:
UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.
I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.
Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,
And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well...
and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.
And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.
I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?
You should have a check valve down in the well below the water table.
You should be able to fill the well pipe and it should stay full.
Another check valve is normally up near the pump.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well..no. There should be nothing between the pipe and the pump
except 'pipe'. A checkvalve at the pump only adds uneeded
restriction. Now there _can_ be a check valve _after_ the pump but
that is usually not done.

My 800' well has a check valve every 100 feet going down, then another
one just before the pressure switch/tank. My last house was the same
setup. The pump here, with at least 6 or 7 or 8 check valves and a 1HP
pump, even after running constant for about 30 minutes or more, it still
puts out about 15GPM, so if those check valves are doing any
restricting, it's not much. When I first moved here it put out a full
20GPM. After a 2 1/2 year drought, it was only putting out about 10GPM.
It's been going up a little each year with average rainfall.

Tony wrote:

Well..no. There should be nothing between the pipe and the pump
except 'pipe'. A checkvalve at the pump only adds uneeded
restriction. Now there _can_ be a check valve _after_ the pump but
that is usually not done.

My 800' well has a check valve every 100 feet going down, then another
one just before the pressure switch/tank. My last house was the same
setup. The pump here, with at least 6 or 7 or 8 check valves and a
1HP pump, even after running constant for about 30 minutes or more,
it still puts out about 15GPM, so if those check valves are doing any
restricting, it's not much. When I first moved here it put out a full
20GPM. After a 2 1/2 year drought, it was only putting out about
10GPM. It's been going up a little each year with average rainfall.

Check valves on the suction side of a pump are probably more of a problem than
on the pressure side. The OP is talking about a shallow well, with the pump
drawing the water up.

OP - Some pumps are self-priming, others are not. Which is yours?

Mikepier wrote:
UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?
Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top, and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

If you have a way to apply water pressure to the inlet side pipes, do so while
you start the pump. When it starts to pump, shut off the inlet water and see if
it continues to pump. This will help flush any air in the system.

All I can tell you is if I pour water in the pipe to the top, it
eventually drains down to its standard level of 2 ft below the
basement floor, so I don't think I have a checkvalve in the vertical
pipe, or if I do, its defective.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
All I can tell you is if I pour water in the pipe to the top, it
eventually drains down to its standard level of 2 ft below the
basement floor, so I don't think I have a checkvalve in the vertical
pipe, or if I do, its defective.

I think you do have one, because the old pump would have used one, but from
sitting idle, it's probably frozen closed, with a slight leak

So how does one remove the pipe casing to see if the footvalve is bad?
I estimate this pipe goes down a good 25 feet? In sections I'm
assuming.

On Apr 24, 3:13*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

All I can tell you is if I pour water in the pipe to the top, it
eventually drains down to its standard level of 2 ft below the
basement floor, so I don't think I have a checkvalve in the vertical
pipe, or if I do, its defective.

I think you do have one, because the old pump would have used one, but from
sitting idle, it's probably frozen closed, with a slight leak

I suspect he does also and either it or the screen around it (if it
has one) is partly clogged. If he has a self-primng pump, it would
work on his system without a footvalve. Sounds like the maximum draw
distance would only be about 20', well within self-priming range.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 7:19*pm, Mikepier wrote:
So how does one remove the pipe casing to see if the footvalve is bad?
I estimate this pipe goes down a good 25 feet? In sections I'm
assuming.

Good point, you say it is in a basement so, unless there is a hatch
overhead, iron pipe would have to be in sections no longer than about
7'. Of course if it is black poly, you just pull it _careful that you
don't kink it_ and lay it on the floor.

Harry K

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
So how does one remove the pipe casing to see if the footvalve is bad?
I estimate this pipe goes down a good 25 feet? In sections I'm
assuming.

As Harryk said, basement wells are often built into an extension off the
basement, with a concrete ceiling, and directly above the well is a section
that can be removed. If this isn't the case, I would pull the pipe up, cut
it up and remove it. Then replace it with poly, which I would recommend if
the well pipe is all galv

Mikepier wrote:
So how does one remove the pipe casing to see if the footvalve is bad?
I estimate this pipe goes down a good 25 feet? In sections I'm
assuming.

You don't remove the _casing_ at all; assuming the hole _is_ cased it's
the outer wall of the wellhole and is permanent.

You pull the suction pipe by whatever means is required depending on
what it is. If it is inside there either has to be an access if it has
full joints (or the house was built around it which would be pretty
silly thing to have done) or it is in short joints that have clearance
or flexible plastic that can be coiled as it comes.

--

OK here is another test I did. I have a Wayne portable pump. It is
self priming, and hose bibs for the inlet and outlet. I stuck a 10
foot house down the well and sucked all the water out. The water did
not return to it's steady state level until about 3-4 minutes later.
Does this imply the screen is clogged , or there is a problem with the
well? It seems there should be a steady supply of water if I'm sucking
it out with my portable pump.

On Apr 25, 7:17*am, Mikepier wrote:
OK here is another test I did. I have a Wayne portable pump. It is
self priming, and hose bibs for the inlet and outlet. I stuck a 10
foot house down the well and sucked all the water out. The water did
not return to it's steady state level until about 3-4 minutes later.
Does this imply the screen is clogged , or there is a problem with the
well? It seems there should be a steady supply of water if I'm sucking
it out with my portable pump.

Hmmm...that sounds like the 'recovery rate' of the well is too slow to
be of use.

Back to your pump for a bit of clarification.

When you first fire it up, does it pump what looks like a normal flow
and then go to a trickle? If it does, that is another clue that the
well does not have sufficient in-flow to be of much use.

Harry K

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
OK here is another test I did. I have a Wayne portable pump. It is
self priming, and hose bibs for the inlet and outlet. I stuck a 10
foot house down the well and sucked all the water out. The water did
not return to it's steady state level until about 3-4 minutes later.
Does this imply the screen is clogged , or there is a problem with the
well? It seems there should be a steady supply of water if I'm sucking
it out with my portable pump.


That pretty much demonstrates that the foot valve is stuck, practically
closed or clogged. Filling the pipe with water and seeing it slowly drain
out shows the same thing

When you first fire it up, does it pump what looks like a normal flow
and then go to a trickle? *If it does, that is another clue that the
well does not have sufficient in-flow to be of much use.

Harry K

It seems to flow good at first for the first few seconds, then gets
irratic.

Mikepier wrote:
OK here is another test I did. I have a Wayne portable pump. It is
self priming, and hose bibs for the inlet and outlet. I stuck a 10
foot house down the well and sucked all the water out. The water did
not return to it's steady state level until about 3-4 minutes later.
Does this imply the screen is clogged , or there is a problem with the
well? It seems there should be a steady supply of water if I'm sucking
it out with my portable pump.

How deep is the well? How far down does the original pipe go? Put the
pipe down another 10 or 20 feet and see if it still goes dry. If it
does, then go deeper. If you hit bottom, lift it up again so it doesn't
suck up the sediment at the bottom.

On Apr 24, 11:02*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , Harry K wrote:





On Apr 24, 6:53=A0am, Mikepier wrote:
On Apr 24, 9:36=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote:

In article =
..com, Mikepier wrote:

UPDATE: This morning I removed the well cap, and filled up to the top
with water, then tried the pump again, still water only coming out in
spurts, and not consistent.

I understand I need a check valve, but for the purpose of testing the
pump right now, shouldn't the pump work even without a check valve?

Why would you think that it should? Think about what the check valve is=
for:
to keep water from draining out of the pump back into the well. If you =
don't
have a check valve somewhere, the pump _cannot_ stay primed.

Like I said, I filled up the well pipe to the top,

And since you have no check valve, it all drained back into the well....

and I poured water
in the outlet pipe, so I'm sure the pump is primed.

And I'm even more sure that you're wrong about that.

I'm not familiar with pump operations, so please excuse my lack of
knowledge. If you say I need a check valve, can I put it on the inlet
pipe before the union?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

NO, NO and NO. *Don't listen to the people who have no clue about pump
operation. *I'vebeen dealing with those things for most of 60 years
takign care of mine, my folks and neighbors.

What you need is a footvalve and you appartenly already have one as
you were able to fill the sucction pipe and pump.

He *isn't* able to pump, Harry, that's the whole reason he's posting.



snip

Exactly and people telling him to put in a useless, unneccessary
'check valve' are not helping.

Harry K

On Apr 24, 1:55*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Tony wrote:
Well..no. *There should be nothing between the pipe and the pump
except 'pipe'. *A checkvalve at the pump only adds uneeded
restriction. *Now there _can_ be a check valve _after_ the pump but
that is usually not done.

My 800' well has a check valve every 100 feet going down, then another
one just before the pressure switch/tank. *My last house was the same
setup. *The pump here, with at least 6 or 7 or 8 check valves and a
1HP pump, even after running constant for about 30 minutes or more,
it still puts out about 15GPM, so if those check valves are doing any
restricting, it's not much. *When I first moved here it put out a full
20GPM. *After a 2 1/2 year drought, it was only putting out about
*10GPM. It's been going up a little each year with average rainfall.

Check valves on the suction side of a pump are probably more of a problem than
on the pressure side. The OP is talking about a shallow well, with the pump
drawing the water up.

OP - Some pumps are self-priming, others are not. Which is yours?

It also sounds like whoever installed all those checkvalves didn't
know what he was doing.

Harry K

On Apr 25, 7:51*am, "RBM" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

OK here is another test I did. I have a Wayne portable pump. It is
self priming, and hose bibs for the inlet and outlet. I stuck a 10
foot house down the well and sucked all the water out. The water did
not return to it's steady state level until about 3-4 minutes later.
Does this imply the screen is clogged , or there is a problem with the
well? It seems there should be a steady supply of water if I'm sucking
it out with my portable pump.

That pretty much demonstrates that the foot valve is stuck, practically
closed or clogged. Filling the pipe with water and seeing it slowly drain
out shows the same thing

True only if he stuck that hose down the suction pipe. I assumed (yes
I know) that he had put it down beside it. If he did stick it down
the suction pipe, you are right - footvalve problem.

Harry K

Mikepier wrote:
When you first fire it up, does it pump what looks like a normal flow
and then go to a trickle? If it does, that is another clue that the
well does not have sufficient in-flow to be of much use.

Harry K

It seems to flow good at first for the first few seconds, then gets
irratic.

Well, that's what would be expected if the footvalve were mostly closed;
empty the well pipe and then wait. Otoh, of course, it could also be
indicative that the well recovery rate is slow enough that the only way
for it to be usable is to have a large pressure tank and pump the well
very, very slowly and use from the reservoir.

But, the above assumes the suction pipe is the one you're pumping out of
rather than between it and the casing (again, assuming this is a cased
well altho I'm now highly suspicious it is simply a driven sandpoint)
rather than a drilled well given the depth and the description.

If that's the case, it'll be a bear to pull by hand because there is no
casing; the pipe is in direct contact w/ the ground as it was simply
driven. It also raises the probability that the well capacity is simply
that slow refresh rate and won't be of much value for irrigation unless
it's a very small area.

--