I bought a 3-panel sliding door for my 1-piece shower stall (42" wide), to
replace shower curtain/tension rod. The stall must be made of
acrylic/fiberglass.

Now my headache is how to mount the door with screws onto both sides of the
stall opening. Can we drill into it? Is it strong enough to hold the door?
Please advise. Thanks!

John61 wrote the following:
I bought a 3-panel sliding door for my 1-piece shower stall (42" wide), to
replace shower curtain/tension rod. The stall must be made of
acrylic/fiberglass.

Now my headache is how to mount the door with screws onto both sides of the
stall opening. Can we drill into it? Is it strong enough to hold the door?
Please advise. Thanks!

Why not? That's the way my bathroom bath/shower doors were installed in
the fiberglass stall for about 20 years. I had silicone sealer behind
the plates and when I removed the doors and frames a couple of years
ago, I had a hard time pulling the tracks off the walls with the screws
out, and then had to scrape all the left over silicone off the stall
sides and tub.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On 3/4/2010 1:31 AM, John61 wrote:
I bought a 3-panel sliding door for my 1-piece shower stall (42" wide), to
replace shower curtain/tension rod. The stall must be made of
acrylic/fiberglass.

Now my headache is how to mount the door with screws onto both sides of the
stall opening. Can we drill into it? Is it strong enough to hold the door?
Please advise. Thanks!


I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

LdB

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip


I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:
On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:
On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

On Mar 4, 9:04*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:



On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

Exactly, and that is *all* that needs to be done. The jams don't need
to be "glued even more". The screws and anchors will hold the jams in
place. All of the weight is on the header anyway. I was in the glass
business for over 20 yrs and a big no-no is exactly what you are
proposing. Nothing like trying to install a new enclosure on a
fiberglass stall that some jackass used a tube of silicone on to "hold
the jams in place".

On Mar 4, 8:53*pm, Ron wrote:
On Mar 4, 9:04*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

Exactly, and that is *all* that needs to be done. The jams don't need
to be "glued even more". The screws and anchors will hold the jams in
place. All of the weight is on the header anyway. I was in the glass
business for over 20 yrs and a big no-no is exactly what you are
proposing. Nothing like trying to install a new enclosure on a
fiberglass stall that some jackass used a tube of silicone on to "hold
the jams in place".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are assming that he goes thru the acrylic nad into the wall behind
it. But some of the surrounds that I have seen don't have solid
acrylic between the opening and the part of the surround that touches
against the wall. They use a sort of honeycomb backing to save
plastic. If the OP drills thru the middle of one of those
unsupported sections and then into the wall and tightens things down
really tight, he may warp or crack the acrylic. That's why I would
depend more on the sealant to help hold things in place. No thought
at this point about a future replacement since that is hopefully 20
years down the road.

On Mar 5, 12:18*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Mar 4, 8:53*pm, Ron wrote:





On Mar 4, 9:04*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

Exactly, and that is *all* that needs to be done. The jams don't need
to be "glued even more". The screws and anchors will hold the jams in
place. All of the weight is on the header anyway. I was in the glass
business for over 20 yrs and a big no-no is exactly what you are
proposing. Nothing like trying to install a new enclosure on a
fiberglass stall that some jackass used a tube of silicone on to "hold
the jams in place".

You are assming that he goes thru the acrylic nad into the wall behind
it. *But some of the surrounds that I have seen don't have solid
acrylic between the opening and the part of the surround that touches
against the wall. *They use a sort of honeycomb backing to save
plastic. *If the OP drills *thru the middle of one of those
unsupported sections and then into the wall and tightens things down
really tight, he may warp or crack the acrylic. *That's why I would
depend more on the sealant to help hold things in place. *No thought
at this point about a future replacement since that is hopefully 20
years down the road


I've installed 100's of tub/shower enclosures, and not ONE time have I
or any of the other professional installers that I've worked with EVER
put silicone on the back of the jambs. There is no need for it if the
jambs are installed properly. I guess that is the difference between a
pro, and an amateur DIYer.

On Mar 5, 12:28*am, Ron wrote:
On Mar 5, 12:18*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Mar 4, 8:53*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 9:04*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

Exactly, and that is *all* that needs to be done. The jams don't need
to be "glued even more". The screws and anchors will hold the jams in
place. All of the weight is on the header anyway. I was in the glass
business for over 20 yrs and a big no-no is exactly what you are
proposing. Nothing like trying to install a new enclosure on a
fiberglass stall that some jackass used a tube of silicone on to "hold
the jams in place".
You are assming that he goes thru the acrylic nad into the wall behind
it. *But some of the surrounds that I have seen don't have solid
acrylic between the opening and the part of the surround that touches
against the wall. *They use a sort of honeycomb backing to save
plastic. *If the OP drills *thru the middle of one of those
unsupported sections and then into the wall and tightens things down
really tight, he may warp or crack the acrylic. *That's why I would
depend more on the sealant to help hold things in place. *No thought
at this point about a future replacement since that is hopefully 20
years down the road

I've installed 100's of tub/shower enclosures, and not ONE time have I
or any of the other professional installers that I've worked with EVER
put silicone on the back of the jambs. There is no need for it if the
jambs are installed properly. I guess that is the difference between a
pro, and an amateur DIYer.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The OP sounded like he was a DIY and not a professional installer, so
the advice given was based on that premise.

On Mar 6, 3:10*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Mar 5, 12:28*am, Ron wrote:



On Mar 5, 12:18*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 8:53*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 9:04*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 5:36*pm, Ron wrote:

On Mar 4, 6:20*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:22*am, Joe wrote:

On Mar 4, 11:04*am, LdB wrote:

snip

I installed glass doors on my acrylic tub surround using plastic wall
anchors that came with the doors. *Acrylic drills easily. Don't push
too hard on the drill you will make a cleaner hole.

And run the drill at a low speed setting...

Joe

Use LOTS of QUALITY silicone sealer between the track and the shower
stall edges, as the silicone will glue the track to the shower. *The
screws will weaken with time and slamming, but the silicone will
outlast the acrylic.

That is *incorrect*.

After installation a *bead* of silicone should be run on both sides of
the jams and track where they meet the stall.

That is for waterproofing, a good line of silicone down the middle of
the track will help glue it even more.

Exactly, and that is *all* that needs to be done. The jams don't need
to be "glued even more". The screws and anchors will hold the jams in
place. All of the weight is on the header anyway. I was in the glass
business for over 20 yrs and a big no-no is exactly what you are
proposing. Nothing like trying to install a new enclosure on a
fiberglass stall that some jackass used a tube of silicone on to "hold
the jams in place".
You are assming that he goes thru the acrylic nad into the wall behind
it. *But some of the surrounds that I have seen don't have solid
acrylic between the opening and the part of the surround that touches
against the wall. *They use a sort of honeycomb backing to save
plastic. *If the OP drills *thru the middle of one of those
unsupported sections and then into the wall and tightens things down
really tight, he may warp or crack the acrylic. *That's why I would
depend more on the sealant to help hold things in place. *No thought
at this point about a future replacement since that is hopefully 20
years down the road

I've installed 100's of tub/shower enclosures, and not ONE time have I
or any of the other professional installers that I've worked with EVER
put silicone on the back of the jambs. There is no need for it if the
jambs are installed properly. I guess that is the difference between a
pro, and an amateur DIYer

The OP sounded like he was a DIY and not a professional installer, so
the advice given was based on that premise.

The fact is, I gave him professional advice, you didn't.

Hey, you can install your enclosures any way you want to. I'm just
helping out the OP with the correct way to install his enclosure.

Whether or not he decides to take the advice is up to him.

Anytime I ask a question in this group if there happens to be a pro
giving advice that is the advice I'm going to take.

YMMV

Manay many thanks go to you both, and all others. I'm a DIYer indeed.

To get screw through into wall, must use super long screws. It seems no
studs on both sides exactly behind. So I'd have to wish the opening is solid
enough to hold screws, not like hollow inside....

On Mar 8, 3:44*am, "John61" wrote:
Manay many thanks go to you both, and all others. I'm a DIYer indeed.

To get screw through into wall, must use super long screws. It seems no
studs on both sides exactly behind. So I'd have to wish the opening is solid
enough to hold screws, not like hollow inside....

You don't have to screw it into the wall or studs. Were there plastic
anchors that came with your enclosure? (Basically drywall anchors)

That is all you need.

Hold the jambs in place and make sure they are leveled.

Mark the holes.

Drill the the holes with a slightly smaller bit than the holes in the
jambs.

Put in the anchors.

Now install the jambs with the included screws. Hand tighten until
snug.

Install the header. Hang the doors. Run a fine bead of clear silicone
on both sides of the jambs and bottom track.

Thanks! This is exactly what I need. Will do as advised...

"Ron" wrote in message
...
On Mar 8, 3:44 am, "John61" wrote:
Manay many thanks go to you both, and all others. I'm a DIYer indeed.

To get screw through into wall, must use super long screws. It seems no
studs on both sides exactly behind. So I'd have to wish the opening is
solid
enough to hold screws, not like hollow inside....

You don't have to screw it into the wall or studs. Were there plastic
anchors that came with your enclosure? (Basically drywall anchors)

That is all you need.

Hold the jambs in place and make sure they are leveled.

Mark the holes.

Drill the the holes with a slightly smaller bit than the holes in the
jambs.

Put in the anchors.

Now install the jambs with the included screws. Hand tighten until
snug.

Install the header. Hang the doors. Run a fine bead of clear silicone
on both sides of the jambs and bottom track.