So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

Is it hard or soft copper pipe?

TDD

"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
failure.

On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:53:56 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending limits:



"Zootal" wrote in message
.97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
failure.

One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

"Caesar Romano" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:53:56 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending limits:



"Zootal" wrote in message
6.97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall
and
failure.

One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to post
something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There are
lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that they do it right,
but when you get to really talking to them about it, you realize that they
are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble gum repairmen who don't even know
how to properly bend a copper tube.

It may also be added that tubing bending can be improved by the use of
filler sand and pressurization to keep the outer walls pushing out. Of
course, this is only offered in the advance copper tubing bending course. I
would suggest to the OP and whoever else wants to bend copper to invest in a
good bender, or pick one up used whenever they see one. Or even make a
simple one. It makes for a much better job, and reduces failure rates.

Definitely not for the baling wire and bubble gum brigade.

Steve

On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 09:02:02 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending limits:

"Caesar Romano" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:53:56 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending limits:

One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.

You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to post
something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There are
lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that they do it right,
but when you get to really talking to them about it, you realize that they
are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble gum repairmen who don't even know
how to properly bend a copper tube.

Well put.
--
Work is the curse of the drinking class.

Steve B wrote:
You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to
post something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There
are lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that
they do it right, but when you get to really talking to them about
it, you realize that they are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble
gum repairmen who don't even know how to properly bend a copper tube.

It may also be added that tubing bending can be improved by the use of
filler sand and pressurization to keep the outer walls pushing out. Of
course, this is only offered in the advance copper tubing bending
course. I would suggest to the OP and whoever else wants to bend
copper to invest in a good bender, or pick one up used whenever they
see one. Or even make a simple one. It makes for a much better job,
and reduces failure rates.
Definitely not for the baling wire and bubble gum brigade.

Not everyone can be as totally awesome as you think you are, Steve.

Jon

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to
post something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There
are lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that
they do it right, but when you get to really talking to them about
it, you realize that they are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble
gum repairmen who don't even know how to properly bend a copper tube.

It may also be added that tubing bending can be improved by the use of
filler sand and pressurization to keep the outer walls pushing out. Of
course, this is only offered in the advance copper tubing bending
course. I would suggest to the OP and whoever else wants to bend
copper to invest in a good bender, or pick one up used whenever they
see one. Or even make a simple one. It makes for a much better job,
and reduces failure rates.
Definitely not for the baling wire and bubble gum brigade.

Not everyone can be as totally awesome as you think you are, Steve.

Jon

Ahhhh. Were I only as great as my dogs think I am .............

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...
Steve B wrote:
You're catching on, Caesar! Most just don't know dookie, so have to
post something they think is funny in their impaired state of mind. There
are lots here who think because they "fix" things at home that
they do it right, but when you get to really talking to them about
it, you realize that they are just a bunch of baling wire and bubble
gum repairmen who don't even know how to properly bend a copper tube.

It may also be added that tubing bending can be improved by the use of
filler sand and pressurization to keep the outer walls pushing out. Of
course, this is only offered in the advance copper tubing bending
course. I would suggest to the OP and whoever else wants to bend
copper to invest in a good bender, or pick one up used whenever they
see one. Or even make a simple one. It makes for a much better job,
and reduces failure rates.
Definitely not for the baling wire and bubble gum brigade.

Not everyone can be as totally awesome as you think you are, Steve.

Jon

Heck, I learn something new every day or I consider the day wasted.

But I have owner contracted a 3,000 sf house, remodeled five, own four, and
currently maintain two. Was a contractor for nine years.

I've been around the block so many times, I'm still dizzy.

Steve

On 2/10/2010 9:04 AM, Caesar Romano wrote:
On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:53:56 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending limits:



wrote in message
. 97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
failure.

One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.

How do you know it was correct? The OP omitted any details such as if
soft or hard copper tube was being used.

Caesar Romano wrote in
:

On Wed, 10 Feb 2010 05:53:56 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote Re Cooper pipe bending
limits:



"Zootal" wrote in message
6.97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city
water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without
risk of
future failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on
the
radius, it can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can
cause
damage to the wall and failure.

One correct answer out of 10. Excellent for this NG.

Naawww...this newsgroups is awesome. It is easily one of the
most polite and informative groups out there. Drop in on some
of the alt.windows... groups. It is amazing how many
adolescent children with absolutely no control over their
mouths are ranting and raving over usenet. I used to think
that I'd slap my kids silly if I caught them behaving like
that. Now it's more like I'd shoot my kids if I saw them
behaving like that...

On 2/10/2010 2:53 AM Ed Pawlowski spake thus:

"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...

So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

More important is the type of bender you use. Depending on the radius, it
can go 180 degrees. A slight kink though, can cause damage to the wall and
failure.

Can one safely use an EMT bender on copper pipe? My guess is "no", but
don't know for sure.


--
You were wrong, and I'm man enough to admit it.

- a Usenet "apology"

Copper pipe comes in hardness grades. K, L, and M. K copper
(it's been years since I needed to know this) is soft, and
comes on rolls. L, and M are rigid and should not be bent if
possible.

Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zootal" wrote in message
. 97.131...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water,
~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without
risk of future
failure?

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Copper pipe comes in hardness grades. K, L, and M. K copper
(it's been years since I needed to know this) is soft, and
comes on rolls. L, and M are rigid and should not be bent if
possible.

Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.


I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.

TDD

I've done that. Someone ran 3/8 soft copper under my
trailer, for the water line. The copper rubbed through at
some point, and started spraying. Find out that 1/2 OD
refrigeration works well. Silver braze works, too.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"The Daring Dufas" wrote
in message ...

I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Copper pipe comes in hardness grades. K, L, and M. K copper
(it's been years since I needed to know this) is soft, and
comes on rolls. L, and M are rigid and should not be bent if
possible.

Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.


I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.

TDD

K, L and M are wall thickness grades (like sch. 80, 40, 20) and have
nothing to do with hardness. Both soft copper and hard copper are
available in the different grades.

Refrigeration grade tubing is yet another thing, and mostly refers to
the fact that the tubing has been cleaned and capped to keep out
contamination that could damage refrigeration equipment with small
orifices, etc. Plumbing grade tubing isn't cleaned and capped since
water pipes can be readily flushed of impurities. Refrigeration grade
tubing is also specified by it's outside diameter vs. plumbing which is
specified by nominal ID.

Pete C. wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Copper pipe comes in hardness grades. K, L, and M. K copper
(it's been years since I needed to know this) is soft, and
comes on rolls. L, and M are rigid and should not be bent if
possible.

Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.

I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.

TDD

K, L and M are wall thickness grades (like sch. 80, 40, 20) and have
nothing to do with hardness. Both soft copper and hard copper are
available in the different grades.

Refrigeration grade tubing is yet another thing, and mostly refers to
the fact that the tubing has been cleaned and capped to keep out
contamination that could damage refrigeration equipment with small
orifices, etc. Plumbing grade tubing isn't cleaned and capped since
water pipes can be readily flushed of impurities. Refrigeration grade
tubing is also specified by it's outside diameter vs. plumbing which is
specified by nominal ID.

I do more HVAC and refrigeration work than plumbing so the pipe I
have on hand is refrigeration tubing. In order to get me to do any
plumbing work, you have to point a gun at me or torture me by the
crinkling a stack of hundred dollar bills in front of me ploy.

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:

Pete C. wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Copper pipe comes in hardness grades. K, L, and M. K copper
(it's been years since I needed to know this) is soft, and
comes on rolls. L, and M are rigid and should not be bent if
possible.

Of course, the goal is to bend it as little as possible.

I have a tendency to use refrigeration grade soft copper for
everything because I can bend it and form my own fittings
with the tools I have. I rarely purchase couplings or elbows
since I can make my own.

TDD

K, L and M are wall thickness grades (like sch. 80, 40, 20) and have
nothing to do with hardness. Both soft copper and hard copper are
available in the different grades.

Refrigeration grade tubing is yet another thing, and mostly refers to
the fact that the tubing has been cleaned and capped to keep out
contamination that could damage refrigeration equipment with small
orifices, etc. Plumbing grade tubing isn't cleaned and capped since
water pipes can be readily flushed of impurities. Refrigeration grade
tubing is also specified by it's outside diameter vs. plumbing which is
specified by nominal ID.

I do more HVAC and refrigeration work than plumbing so the pipe I
have on hand is refrigeration tubing. In order to get me to do any
plumbing work, you have to point a gun at me or torture me by the
crinkling a stack of hundred dollar bills in front of me ploy.

TDD

I do whatever work I need to do, in the interest of knowing the job was
done correctly, as well as being more self sufficient and saving a few
bucks. If it gives me an excuse to buy new tools, even better.

In article 31, Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?

Maybe it was a rhetorical question?

smirk

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote in news:Xns9D1B4F00DF3C4ikkezelf@
207.246.207.167:

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?

Maybe it was a rhetorical question?

smirk


None of us realize the truth: there is no copper pipe...

Zootal wrote in
. 97.131:

None of us realize the truth: there is no copper pipe...

You'd call it "tube"? That's semantics, but it may be officially true.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Han" wrote in message
...
Zootal wrote in
. 97.131:

None of us realize the truth: there is no copper pipe...

You'd call it "tube"? That's semantics, but it may be officially true.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Define "is". - Bill Clinton -

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?


There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a 10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know what is
"too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135 degree "elbows"
(what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to make the necessary
bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to do that instead of stressing
the pipe.


I'm using thicker stuff that is "approved" for being used behind walls, I
forget the letter designation that goes with it.

My bender is for 3/4 conduit - can that be used with 3/4 and 1/2 copper?

In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet). I see no reason not to run a set of hot/cold 3/4 pipes
up through the floor (two pipes going up, not five) and then tee off as
needed once I get where I'm going. Simpler, cleaner, uses less pipe.

Zootal wrote in
. 97.131:

my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet

We got that fixed with a Delta faucet that automagically adjusts the hot &
cold flows if the pressure changes. Look into that, or change the supply
lines to the toilet to 1/8" ID grin.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Zootal wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?
Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?


There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a 10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know what is
"too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135 degree "elbows"
(what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to make the necessary
bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to do that instead of stressing
the pipe.


I'm using thicker stuff that is "approved" for being used behind walls, I
forget the letter designation that goes with it.

My bender is for 3/4 conduit - can that be used with 3/4 and 1/2 copper?

In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet). I see no reason not to run a set of hot/cold 3/4 pipes
up through the floor (two pipes going up, not five) and then tee off as
needed once I get where I'm going. Simpler, cleaner, uses less pipe.


Did you even consider using PEX tubing for your plumbing or is copper
the only plumbing material you've had experience with?

TDD

In article 31, Zootal wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?


There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a 10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know what is
"too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135 degree "elbows"
(what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to make the necessary
bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to do that instead of stressing
the pipe.

It's a better idea. They're called 45-degree ells.

(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote in
:

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~
60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?


There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a
10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know
what is "too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135
degree "elbows" (what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to
make the necessary bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to
do
that instead of stressing the pipe.

It's a better idea. They're called 45-degree ells.


Why do they call them 45 degrees? Look at one - it's not 45 degrees,
it's 135 degrees. :-)

In article 31, Zootal wrote:


Why do they call them 45 degrees? Look at one - it's not 45 degrees,
it's 135 degrees. :-)

Yes, I know that. I also know that if you go to a plumbing supply house and
ask for a 135-degree ell they will tell you there is no such thing.

There are similar fittings known in the trade as 22.5-degree and 60-degree
ells; what do you suppose are the actual angles of those?

I'm using thicker stuff that is "approved" for being used behind walls, I
forget the letter designation that goes with it.

My bender is for 3/4 conduit - can that be used with 3/4 and 1/2 copper?

That's not the right type of bender for copper. If you feel that you
want to try it anyway then just pack the tube full of sand before
bending.

"Zootal" wrote in message
In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet).

You need an anti-scald valve. Pressure may drop, it it won't go too hot.

On Feb 10, 11:52*am, Zootal wrote:
(Doug Miller) wrote :

In article 31,
Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?

Question for you: why do you think you *need* to bend it?

There are a few places where it has to snake around a bit. Maybe a 10
degree bend here, maybe 5 degrees there. Not much, but I don't know what is
"too much". If bending is evil, I can simply use some 135 degree "elbows"
(what do you call the 135 degree bent couplers?) to make the necessary
bends. I bit more extra work, but I'm happy to do that instead of stressing
the pipe.

I'm using thicker stuff that is "approved" for being used behind walls, I
forget the letter designation that goes with it.

My bender is for 3/4 conduit - can that be used with 3/4 and 1/2 copper?

In one place I have two hot water connections and three for cold water.
Whoever did this ran five 1/2 pipes up through the floor (and my girls
complain about what happens to the shower water temp everytime someone
flushes the toilet). I see no reason not to run a set of hot/cold 3/4 pipes
up through the floor (two pipes going up, not five) and then tee off as
needed once I get where I'm going. Simpler, cleaner, uses less pipe.


Well the question here is: What sort of shower value do you have
installed ???

Is it a scald protection temperature balancing type ??? If it is,
your cartridge
inside the valve body might need to be replaced due to build-up of
crud from
hard water conditions... If it isn't one, meaning you have an older
home with
the individual hot/cold water valves for the tub/shower, then you
might want
to consider installing a new scald protection shower valve...

~~ Evan

Well the question here is: What sort of shower value do you have
installed ???

Is it a scald protection temperature balancing type ??? If it is,
your cartridge
inside the valve body might need to be replaced due to build-up of
crud from
hard water conditions... If it isn't one, meaning you have an older
home with
the individual hot/cold water valves for the tub/shower, then you
might want
to consider installing a new scald protection shower valve...

~~ Evan


It's one of those constant volume valves, where you can't control how much
water comes out. I hate it. I like to control water volume, so I replaced
it with extreme prejudice :-)

So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer plumber who mostly
bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me that there is one
grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all plumbing supply's
carried it. He also had the proper benders for copper pipe. I don't
remember what the pipe was called.

Most likely "K copper".

K with you?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city
water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without
risk of future
failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer
plumber who mostly
bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me
that there is one
grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all plumbing
supply's
carried it. He also had the proper benders for copper pipe.
I don't
remember what the pipe was called.

Most likely "soft copper". "K" copper designates the thickness.


Stormin Mormon wrote:
Most likely "K copper".

K with you?


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city
water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without
risk of future
failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer
plumber who mostly
bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me
that there is one
grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all plumbing
supply's
carried it. He also had the proper benders for copper pipe.
I don't
remember what the pipe was called.

"John Grabowski" wrote in
:

So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer plumber who
mostly bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me that
there is one grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all
plumbing supply's carried it. He also had the proper benders for
copper pipe. I don't remember what the pipe was called.


Is there a "proper" bender for copper pipe? I have a bender made for 3/4
conduit, can that be used to bend copper?

So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer plumber who
mostly bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me that
there is one grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all
plumbing supply's carried it. He also had the proper benders for
copper pipe. I don't remember what the pipe was called.


Is there a "proper" bender for copper pipe? I have a bender made for 3/4
conduit, can that be used to bend copper?



*There are benders for copper available. They look similar to my conduit
benders. I have never tried to bend copper pipe.

Zootal wrote in
. 97.131:

"John Grabowski" wrote in
:

So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of
future failure?


*Several years ago I worked on a job with an old timer plumber who
mostly bent his copper pipe instead of using elbows. He told me that
there is one grade of pipe that is used for bending, but not all
plumbing supply's carried it. He also had the proper benders for
copper pipe. I don't remember what the pipe was called.


Is there a "proper" bender for copper pipe? I have a bender made for 3/4
conduit, can that be used to bend copper?


I had a plumber tell me not bend rigid copper. Period. I guess there is
flexible and rigid copper pipe...learn something new every day...

On Feb 10, 12:55*am, Zootal wrote:
So I'm installing 1/2 and 3/4 copper water pipe, city water, ~60psi.
Question - how much can you safely bend the pipe without risk of future
failure?

If bending is that much of a concern, why not just use PEX? You'll get
the job done in less time, too.

Joe