Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

On Feb 8, 2:26*pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

* *I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
* *Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's *sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

Blind tap of a slightly larger size. Because it's probably soft metal
you can "make" a tap using a file and a bolt. Just file a couple
cutting grooves lengthwise in a bolt. I use the corner of a file and
angle it so the cutting edge is close to 90deg.

On Feb 8, 1:33*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Feb 8, 2:26*pm, "Twayne" wrote:





Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

* *I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
* *Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's *sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

Blind tap of a slightly larger size. *Because it's probably soft metal
you can "make" a tap using a file and a bolt. *Just file a couple
cutting grooves lengthwise in a bolt. *I use the corner of a file and
angle it so the cutting edge is close to 90deg.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Too Risky. Just use solder, it is lead and the stripped threads were
probably also lead.

Twayne wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

A helicoil or equivalent or a larger bolt are probably the only viable
options. You could fill the stripped hole with lead to redrill and
retap, but you'd have a hard time not melting the plastic case in that
area.

snip

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

A helicoil or equivalent or a larger bolt are probably the only viable
options. You could fill the stripped hole with lead to redrill and
retap, but you'd have a hard time not melting the plastic case in that
area.


This might be a good time to just get a new battery....

On Feb 8, 2:40*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Feb 8, 1:33*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Feb 8, 2:26*pm, "Twayne" wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

* *I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
* *Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's *sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

Blind tap of a slightly larger size. *Because it's probably soft metal
you can "make" a tap using a file and a bolt. *Just file a couple
cutting grooves lengthwise in a bolt. *I use the corner of a file and
angle it so the cutting edge is close to 90deg.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Too Risky. *Just use solder, it is lead and the stripped threads were
probably also lead.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok I'll bite. Why is that "risky"?

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26�pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

� �I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
� �Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's �sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.

On Feb 8, 2:10*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Feb 8, 2:40*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:





On Feb 8, 1:33*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Feb 8, 2:26*pm, "Twayne" wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

* *I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
* *Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's *sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

Blind tap of a slightly larger size. *Because it's probably soft metal
you can "make" a tap using a file and a bolt. *Just file a couple
cutting grooves lengthwise in a bolt. *I use the corner of a file and
angle it so the cutting edge is close to 90deg.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Too Risky. *Just use solder, it is lead and the stripped threads were
probably also lead.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok I'll bite. *Why is that "risky"?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What hapens if he/she drills a bit too deep and goes into the cell
which leaks acid onto him/her and everything nearby?

On Feb 8, 3:44*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Feb 8, 2:10*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:





On Feb 8, 2:40*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:

On Feb 8, 1:33*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Feb 8, 2:26*pm, "Twayne" wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

* *I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
* *Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's *sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

Blind tap of a slightly larger size. *Because it's probably soft metal
you can "make" a tap using a file and a bolt. *Just file a couple
cutting grooves lengthwise in a bolt. *I use the corner of a file and
angle it so the cutting edge is close to 90deg.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Too Risky. *Just use solder, it is lead and the stripped threads were
probably also lead.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ok I'll bite. *Why is that "risky"?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What hapens if he/she drills a bit too deep and goes into the cell
which leaks acid onto him/her and everything nearby?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My advice didn't include drilling. Usually if you go for a slightly
larger bolt you can skip the drilling. And I'm thinking this is a
lead alloy which should be easy to tap out to a bigger size.

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.



A slightly larger bolt is unlikely to fit thru the hole in the battery cable
end without drilling that out as well.....You could also fill the hole with
JB Weld and screw in a headless bolt and secure the battery cable with a nut
or you could go to the auto parts store and buy a conversion kit and convert
them to post mounts...HTH......

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0500, "benick"
wrote:

wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.



A slightly larger bolt is unlikely to fit thru the hole in the battery cable
end without drilling that out as well.....You could also fill the hole with
JB Weld and screw in a headless bolt and secure the battery cable with a nut
or you could go to the auto parts store and buy a conversion kit and convert
them to post mounts...HTH......
Except the conversion kit depends on that stripped thread.

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 16:58:32 -0500, benick wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.



A slightly larger bolt is unlikely to fit thru the hole in the battery cable
end without drilling that out as well.....You could also fill the hole with
JB Weld and screw in a headless bolt and secure the battery cable with a nut
or you could go to the auto parts store and buy a conversion kit and convert
them to post mounts...HTH......

JB weld will not conduct electricity. Check with a battery store for a
solution.

This exact thing was discussed at length just a few weeks ago. Look it
up. Larry

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 14:26:26 -0500, Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

replace it.

Are you looking for some chewing gum solution so you can have the
joy of being stranded somewhere? Why don't you just ask a friend
to leave you in the middle of ****ing nowhere. It'll be a lot less
work.

Lp1331 1p1331 wrote:
This exact thing was discussed at length just a few weeks ago. Look
it up. Larry

All indications are that the OP of both threads is the same.

On Feb 8, 6:57*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Lp1331 1p1331 wrote:
This exact thing was discussed at length just a few weeks ago. *Look
it up. *Larry

All indications are that the OP of both threads is the same.

If that is the case, he could have gone to his FLAPS and purchased a
Helicoil kit in the appropriate size (5/16 UNC? I think?) and had it
fixed weeks ago. But I guess some people don't like the answers they
receive...

nate

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 14:26:26 -0500, Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

replace it.

Are you looking for some chewing gum solution so you can have the
joy of being stranded somewhere? Why don't you just ask a friend
to leave you in the middle of ****ing nowhere. It'll be a lot less
work.

Better to spend than to mend, eh?

Well, that's a philosophy to which many harken.

As I understand it, HTH is internet short hand for "hope
that help". As you are the original poster, you'd put "TIA"
which is "Thanks, in advance". You're not offering any
advice, you're not helping others.

HTH.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Twayne" wrote in message
...
Hi,


HTH,

Twayne

We had this same question a couple weeks ago.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Twayne" wrote in message
...
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive
cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct
this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread
area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt
far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the
battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a
sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway.
Since solder has no
"memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection
loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd
just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

On Feb 8, 4:58*pm, "benick" wrote:
wrote in message

...





On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. *buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
*The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.

A slightly larger bolt is unlikely to fit thru the hole in the battery cable
end without drilling that out as well.....You could also fill the hole with
JB Weld and screw in a headless bolt and secure the battery cable with a nut
or you could go to the auto parts store and buy a conversion kit and convert
them to post mounts...HTH......- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's possible. But drilling out the connector or filing it out a
little is not a big deal. I would still take this path over the
helicoil because the helicoil will be a dissimilar metal and will have
galvanic corrosion issues. As others have pointed out jb weld is out
cause this has to be a metal to conduct.

wrote the following:
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:


If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors.
Where did he 'clearly state' that?

I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.



--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Feb 9, 8:08*am, wrote:
On Tue, 9 Feb 2010 04:59:15 -0800 (PST), jamesgangnc





wrote:
On Feb 8, 4:58*pm, "benick" wrote:
wrote in message

. ..

On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:

If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. *buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.
*The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors. I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.

A slightly larger bolt is unlikely to fit thru the hole in the battery cable
end without drilling that out as well.....You could also fill the hole with
JB Weld and screw in a headless bolt and secure the battery cable with a nut
or you could go to the auto parts store and buy a conversion kit and convert
them to post mounts...HTH......- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

That's possible. *But drilling out the connector or filing it out a
little is not a big deal. *I would still take this path over the
helicoil because the helicoil will be a dissimilar metal and will have
galvanic corrosion issues. *As others have pointed out jb weld is out
cause this has to be a metal to conduct.

The hole and the screw are already dissimilar metals. Since this is a
kludge, anyway, I don't see that as a serious deal killer. If they
have galvanized helicoils, then the helicoil and the cable bolt would
be the same material. I don't think it's that important anyway.
Stainless will work just fine. A $50-$75 replacement battery would be
the "good" fix.

Most garden-variety Helicoils are stainless. I would probably insert
the Helicoil dry and then use anti-seize paste on the bolt threads.

nate

On Tue, 09 Feb 2010 08:31:19 -0500, willshak
wrote:

wrote the following:
On Mon, 8 Feb 2010 12:18:09 -0800 (PST), RRW
wrote:


If it cost and arm and leg it probably has posts as well as side
mounts. buy or rig an adapter to use the top post for the connection
rather than the side tap.

On Feb 8, 1:26?pm, "Twayne" wrote:

Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable connection.
Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a firm/reliable
connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

? ?I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
? ?Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has no
"memory" it's ?sooner or later going to let the connection loosen again;
probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy another
one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

The OP clearly stated it had no posts - only the threaded "side
post" connectors.
Where did he 'clearly state' that?

I'd be looking at an oversized bolt for a simple
fix. For a better fix, I would, if it was me on MY battery,I'd get a
stainless steel bolt the right size and heat it, in place, with my big
electric csoldering copper to hot re-form the threads in the lead.

My bad - I thought he stated it had only the one type of connector -
must have been a different thread on a different group.

Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection loosen
again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

Easy. Just use a self tapping bolt the next size larger.

On Tue, 09 Feb 2010 23:28:17 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection loosen
again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

Easy. Just use a self tapping bolt the next size larger.


Just had another idea. The original battery bolt is only a short
little thing. Try threading a standard bolt into the hole. If that
works, just get a stud to fit in (satainless steel is best) and a
brass nut to fit to fasten the cable with.. Might need a tubular
spacer to fit between the cable end and the nut - like a real thick
washer - so the nut does not jam in the cable end.

Van Chocstraw wrote the following:
Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough to
create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder has
no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection loosen
again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



How in the hell did he do that? Don't know his left from his right?

Probably used a torque wrench, or impact wrench on it.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
In the original Orange County. Est. 1683
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In ,
typed:
On Tue, 09 Feb 2010 23:28:17 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but
it either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far
enough to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the
battery. Using solder instead I seem to have created a
sufficiently tight connection to maintain the connection; for now,
anyway. Since solder has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to
let the connection loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable
weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

Easy. Just use a self tapping bolt the next size larger.


Just had another idea. The original battery bolt is only a short
little thing. Try threading a standard bolt into the hole. If that
works, just get a stud to fit in (satainless steel is best) and a
brass nut to fit to fasten the cable with.. Might need a tubular
spacer to fit between the cable end and the nut - like a real thick
washer - so the nut does not jam in the cable end.

Hmm, that gets my vote for best response so far! You're right, it is a short
bolt, and the battery has a bolt depth almost twice the length of the
threaded bolt! And, I even have the bolts handy: they're what I used to
connect to the batteries outside the car for charging, topping off, etc..

If I can figure how to get the old bolt out of the cable end (it's captive
somehow), I'll be all set. If this works, prepare for a rewardg!

HTH,

Twayne



--
--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

In ,
willshak typed:
Van Chocstraw wrote the following:
Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far
enough to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the
battery. Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently
tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since
solder has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the
connection loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



How in the hell did he do that? Don't know his left from his right?

Probably used a torque wrench, or impact wrench on it.

Nope; just a standard, short wrench; 3/8 or 1/4, whatever size the head is.
It's pretty easy to stip a steel bolt in a lead receptor. Especially if he
started it cross-threaded before he got it right, and then tried to horse it
down. I told him to tighten if "firmly" and to not over-tighten but guess I
should have defined the terms.

HTH,

Twayne




--
--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

In ,
Van Chocstraw typed:
Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough
to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder
has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection
loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



Throw the Mickey Mouse battery in the trash and get a REAL battery
with posts on the top.

Now that's interesting: Top posts vs side bolts makes for a better battery,
eh? Well this must be a really REAL battery since it has both the side bolts
and top posts. Care to explain how I connect side entry bolts on the cables
to posts on the battery? The top posts also have a plastic protector to
prevent accidental contact; how would I do that for the side holes?

Speaking of Mickey Mouse (tm), thanks for the demo of what m.m. advice looks
like.

HTH,

Twayne

--
Newsgroups are great places to get assistance.
But always verify important information with
other sources to be certain you have a clear
understanding of it and that it is accurate.

On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:12:12 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
typed:
On Tue, 09 Feb 2010 23:28:17 -0500, Tony
wrote:

Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but
it either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far
enough to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the
battery. Using solder instead I seem to have created a
sufficiently tight connection to maintain the connection; for now,
anyway. Since solder has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to
let the connection loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable
weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

Easy. Just use a self tapping bolt the next size larger.


Just had another idea. The original battery bolt is only a short
little thing. Try threading a standard bolt into the hole. If that
works, just get a stud to fit in (satainless steel is best) and a
brass nut to fit to fasten the cable with.. Might need a tubular
spacer to fit between the cable end and the nut - like a real thick
washer - so the nut does not jam in the cable end.

Hmm, that gets my vote for best response so far! You're right, it is a short
bolt, and the battery has a bolt depth almost twice the length of the
threaded bolt! And, I even have the bolts handy: they're what I used to
connect to the batteries outside the car for charging, topping off, etc..

If I can figure how to get the old bolt out of the cable end (it's captive
somehow), I'll be all set. If this works, prepare for a rewardg!

HTH,

Twayne


Hey, I've been a mechanic since I was just a kid - and that's a LONG
time ago!!!

--

On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:21:42 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
Van Chocstraw typed:
Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough
to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder
has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection
loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



Throw the Mickey Mouse battery in the trash and get a REAL battery
with posts on the top.

Now that's interesting: Top posts vs side bolts makes for a better battery,
eh? Well this must be a really REAL battery since it has both the side bolts
and top posts. Care to explain how I connect side entry bolts on the cables
to posts on the battery? The top posts also have a plastic protector to
prevent accidental contact; how would I do that for the side holes?

Speaking of Mickey Mouse (tm), thanks for the demo of what m.m. advice looks
like.

HTH,

Twayne
There is also an adapter you can buy that bolts to the side terminal
cable connector and clamps to the top post - and the plastic cover
just pulls off.. A plastic plug sticks into the side terminal when the
top post is used - so that IS a possibility.

On Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:21:42 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
Van Chocstraw typed:
Twayne wrote:
Hi,

A "friend" managed to strip the bolt-hole for the positive cable
connection. Now it'll no longer tighten sufficiently to allow a
firm/reliable connection.

Is there any reasonable and permanent way to fix/correct this?

I"ve tried putting some galv. steel wire into the thread area but it
either does no good or makes it too hard to seat the bolt far enough
to create surface to surface pressure of the cable to the battery.
Using solder instead I seem to have created a sufficiently tight
connection to maintain the connection; for now, anyway. Since solder
has no "memory" it's sooner or later going to let the connection
loosen again; probably sooner in our changeable weather.

Anyone have a better fix? The battery is almost new or I'd just buy
another one but it costs an arm and a leg.

HTH,

Twayne



Throw the Mickey Mouse battery in the trash and get a REAL battery
with posts on the top.

Now that's interesting: Top posts vs side bolts makes for a better battery,
eh? Well this must be a really REAL battery since it has both the side bolts
and top posts. Care to explain how I connect side entry bolts on the cables
to posts on the battery? The top posts also have a plastic protector to
prevent accidental contact; how would I do that for the side holes?

Speaking of Mickey Mouse (tm), thanks for the demo of what m.m. advice looks
like.

HTH,

Twayne

At any autoparts store, they sell adapters to convert side cables to
top cables, and top cables to side cables.