Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.


I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike

amdx wrote:
"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.


I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike

Sounds right to me. I had done a search not long ago and found the
average cost to dry a load of wash was between $0.25 to $0.50 depending
on your electricity cost. Ten cents is on the low side and it goes up a
little over $0.20 in some areas.

"Tony" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:
"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.


I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike

Sounds right to me. I had done a search not long ago and found the
average cost to dry a load of wash was between $0.25 to $0.50 depending on
your electricity cost. Ten cents is on the low side and it goes up a
little over $0.20 in some areas.

Try $1.00, past the initial bull**** low-balled "tier" levels. mebbe 10c
for the first 10 kw.... heh.
--
EA

Existential Angst wrote:
"Tony" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:
"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike
Sounds right to me. I had done a search not long ago and found the
average cost to dry a load of wash was between $0.25 to $0.50 depending on
your electricity cost. Ten cents is on the low side and it goes up a
little over $0.20 in some areas.

Try $1.00, past the initial bull**** low-balled "tier" levels. mebbe 10c
for the first 10 kw.... heh.

Maybe for you, but I take my total electric bill for last month (extra
low despite the colder than normal weather because I was away for over 1
week and I don't heat the whole house even when I am here), $125.74
divided by the total KWH's used, 1540 and get my real price at
$0.082/KWH That is the total including any taxes, surcharges no matter
how many KWH I use, there is no tiered pricing. So using the formula
above, drying one load of wash would only cost me about $0.182 , yes,
less than 19 cents/load.

Maybe YOU fall for the "initial bull**** low-balled "tier" levels", but
that doesn't mean everyone does.

Existential Angst wrote:

"Tony" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:
"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.


I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike

Sounds right to me. I had done a search not long ago and found the
average cost to dry a load of wash was between $0.25 to $0.50 depending on
your electricity cost. Ten cents is on the low side and it goes up a
little over $0.20 in some areas.

Try $1.00, past the initial bull**** low-balled "tier" levels. mebbe 10c
for the first 10 kw.... heh.
--
EA

The tiers here are just the opposite, cost per KWh goes down as usage
goes up. Go figure...

Pete C. wrote:
Existential Angst wrote:

"Tony" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:
"terry" wrote in message
...
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some
45 minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt
hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.


I think your math is wrong.
I'll split the difference on the heating element
wattage and call it 3750 watts.
If you ran it 1 hr that would be 3.75kwh.
But, you only run it 45 minutes. so 45/60 x 3.75 = 2.8125kwh
And, it's only on 80% of the 45 minutes.
So, .8 x 2.8125khw = 2.25kwh
Then 10 cents x 2.25 kwh = 22.5 cents
Mike

Sounds right to me. I had done a search not long ago and found the
average cost to dry a load of wash was between $0.25 to $0.50
depending on your electricity cost. Ten cents is on the low side
and it goes up a little over $0.20 in some areas.

Try $1.00, past the initial bull**** low-balled "tier" levels.
mebbe 10c for the first 10 kw.... heh.
--
EA

The tiers here are just the opposite, cost per KWh goes down as usage
goes up. Go figure...

If a utility has huge surplus generation capablility, that makes sense. Where
are you?

On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 09:31:43 -0800, terry wrote:
Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

I think Mike's right - that should be 45/60 x 0.8 x 0.12 x kW:

3kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 3 = $0.22
4kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 4 = $0.29

.... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

I don't even know where to begin figuring out how much of that heat is
being lost into the house (rather than vent outside) and therefore how
much useful work it does for the six months of the year we need to be
heating the home anyway.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Yes, same here, when we can be bothered. Sometimes we're lazy and just run
the dryer anyway :-) Maybe for the summer I should be painting the thing
black and running it outdoors

cheers

Jules

On Jan 27, 4:14*pm, Jules
wrote:
On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 09:31:43 -0800, terry wrote:
Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

I think Mike's right - that should be 45/60 x 0.8 x 0.12 x kW:

*3kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 3 = $0.22
*4kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 4 = $0.29

... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

I don't even know where to begin figuring out how much of that heat is
being lost into the house (rather than vent outside) and therefore how
much useful work it does for the six months of the year we need to be
heating the home anyway.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Yes, same here, when we can be bothered. Sometimes we're lazy and just run
the dryer anyway :-) Maybe for the summer I should be painting the thing
black and running it outdoors

cheers

Jules

Yes Mike and Jules, you are correct, my wrong math. It's more like two
to four times my original number. Thanks.

Jules writes:
... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

It's amazing (to me) that our cost is almost 3x as high.
The total cost per kwh (including tax, generation, transmission, fees)
is a whopping 17.7 cent/kwh without any possibility of off-peak.

It's hard to believe that the "free market" price (in the absense of
governmental regulation) would be 3x as large particularly given that
electricity is:
- An almost pure commodity (a volt is a volt is a volt)
- Transportable (and relatively efficiently too with new power line
technology)
- Easily buyable/sellable
- Mature technology

blueman wrote:
....

It's hard to believe that the "free market" price (in the absense of
governmental regulation) would be 3x as large particularly given that
electricity is:
- An almost pure commodity (a volt is a volt is a volt)
- Transportable (and relatively efficiently too with new power line
technology)
- Easily buyable/sellable
- Mature technology

Where do you think there's an absence of regulation that affects utility
pricing regardless of where you are (which w/o knowing either makes
specific reasons for rate differences impossible but)...

- there's still voltage drop and line losses
- there's very little installed new power line w/ advanced technology
that makes much difference as yet (it's coming, and there is some
installed, but it's quite insignificant amount in overall scheme as yet)
- but not storable so it is used as generated (and therefore required to
have the capacity to generate however much is needed to be used at any
specific instant)
- a great deal of which is "excessively mature" in terms of thermal
efficiency owing in large part to regulation that makes replacement such
a difficult process (read expensive) that it isn't done as frequently as
otherwise would be. Something otoo 65% of generation facilities are 40+
yrs old

--

On Jan 28, 10:15*am, blueman wrote:
Jules writes:
... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

It's amazing (to me) that our cost is almost 3x as high.
The total cost per kwh (including tax, generation, transmission, fees)
is a whopping 17.7 cent/kwh without any possibility of off-peak.

It's hard to believe that the "free market" price (in the absense of
governmental regulation) would be 3x as large particularly given that
electricity is:
*- An almost pure commodity (a volt is a volt is a volt)

But what it takes for fuel to generate the power is a huge factor and
varies widely. The areas with the lowest electric prices are
usually the ones driven off hydro-electric. Unfortunately, because of
geography, most areas of the country don't have that available.

And also factor in labor rates, materials costs, land costs, etc.
What it costs to build a sub-station or run a new transmission line
near Niagra falls is going to be a whole lot different than one in
northern NJ or San Francisco.





*- Transportable (and relatively efficiently too with new power line
* * * * * * * * * technology)
*- Easily buyable/sellable
*- Mature technology

writes:

On Jan 28, 10:15Â*am, blueman wrote:
Jules writes:
... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

It's amazing (to me) that our cost is almost 3x as high.
The total cost per kwh (including tax, generation, transmission, fees)
is a whopping 17.7 cent/kwh without any possibility of off-peak.

It's hard to believe that the "free market" price (in the absense of
governmental regulation) would be 3x as large particularly given that
electricity is:
Â*- An almost pure commodity (a volt is a volt is a volt)

But what it takes for fuel to generate the power is a huge factor and
varies widely. The areas with the lowest electric prices are
usually the ones driven off hydro-electric. Unfortunately, because of
geography, most areas of the country don't have that available.

And also factor in labor rates, materials costs, land costs, etc.
What it costs to build a sub-station or run a new transmission line
near Niagra falls is going to be a whole lot different than one in
northern NJ or San Francisco.

At best all of the above perhaps explains why we pay more for the
generation portion of our electric bill (12.4 cents/kWh). And I
understand why burning natural gas or oil which is supposedly the main
fuel here in New England would be more expensive than coal burnt in the
Midwest and certainly more expensive than Hydro from the Pacific
NorthWest.

However, why do we pay 7.6 cents/kWh for transmission which is *more*
than the total cost of 6-7 cents that other users here claim to be
paying.

If anything in a regulated monopoly, our transmission costs should be
*lower* than other parts of the country since our lines were built a
long time ago and presumably have already recouped their cost of
capital. Also, with low population growth here, there is not a
requirement for huge new investments in expansion.

I think the real problem here is government regulation and corruption
which accomplishes the threefold evil of keeping prices artificially
high and discouraging competition, and preventing investment in new
technologies or cheaper sources of power...

blueman wrote:

writes:

On Jan 28, 10:15Â am, blueman wrote:
Jules writes:
... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

It's amazing (to me) that our cost is almost 3x as high.
The total cost per kwh (including tax, generation, transmission, fees)
is a whopping 17.7 cent/kwh without any possibility of off-peak.

It's hard to believe that the "free market" price (in the absense of
governmental regulation) would be 3x as large particularly given that
electricity is:
 - An almost pure commodity (a volt is a volt is a volt)

But what it takes for fuel to generate the power is a huge factor and
varies widely. The areas with the lowest electric prices are
usually the ones driven off hydro-electric. Unfortunately, because of
geography, most areas of the country don't have that available.

And also factor in labor rates, materials costs, land costs, etc.
What it costs to build a sub-station or run a new transmission line
near Niagra falls is going to be a whole lot different than one in
northern NJ or San Francisco.

At best all of the above perhaps explains why we pay more for the
generation portion of our electric bill (12.4 cents/kWh). And I
understand why burning natural gas or oil which is supposedly the main
fuel here in New England would be more expensive than coal burnt in the
Midwest and certainly more expensive than Hydro from the Pacific
NorthWest.

However, why do we pay 7.6 cents/kWh for transmission which is *more*
than the total cost of 6-7 cents that other users here claim to be
paying.

You pay more for transmission in the frozen northeast because:

1. The heavily forested states cost a lot more for tree trimming around
the power lines.

2. The ice storms and falling branches cost a lot more to repair the
power lines.


If anything in a regulated monopoly, our transmission costs should be
*lower* than other parts of the country since our lines were built a
long time ago and presumably have already recouped their cost of
capital. Also, with low population growth here, there is not a
requirement for huge new investments in expansion.

Old decrepit infrastructure costs more to repair and maintain, as well
as costing more for rebuilding as sections become overloaded or
otherwise unserviceable. Look at how often you see crews replacing mile
of poles and stringing new lines, often with taller poles and double
circuits to meet the increasing power demands.


I think the real problem here is government regulation and corruption
which accomplishes the threefold evil of keeping prices artificially
high and discouraging competition, and preventing investment in new
technologies or cheaper sources of power...

Government regulation is certainly part of the problem, but it is
typically keeping prices artificially low and discouraging system
upgrades. Look at how CA got into their power mess with their mock
"deregulation", where they deregulated the wholesale end but kept the
retail end regulated and capped and caused companies pull back rather
than absorb losses so the politicians could buy votes.

Jules wrote:

On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 09:31:43 -0800, terry wrote:
Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

I think Mike's right - that should be 45/60 x 0.8 x 0.12 x kW:

3kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 3 = $0.22
4kW works out as 0.75 x 0.8 x 0.12 x 4 = $0.29

... ours is on off-peak so gets 6c/kWh, but I can't remember the wattage
on the heater for ours either (and it normally runs for about an hour for
a full load)

I don't even know where to begin figuring out how much of that heat is
being lost into the house (rather than vent outside) and therefore how
much useful work it does for the six months of the year we need to be
heating the home anyway.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Yes, same here, when we can be bothered. Sometimes we're lazy and just run
the dryer anyway :-) Maybe for the summer I should be painting the thing
black and running it outdoors

cheers

Jules

About a quarter is what I calculated a few years ago. My time to hang
and remove clothes from a clothes line is worth more than a quarter,
I'll stick with the dryer. The re-wash after the occasional bird crap
incident or being blown off the line in a wind gust also negates any
cost savings.

terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes 0.285kWh.
Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer, and they
probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the air.
I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after switching
off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no heat. After
the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and check the wattage
again. I'd take the average and multiply it by the time a load ran.

The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. Without knowing the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the cost.

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had this
one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x 0.8
x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we hang
bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes 0.285kWh.
Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer, and they
probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the air. I
could get the wattage by timing my power meter after switching off all my
other circuits and starting a load in with no heat. After the load dried,
I'd run it without heat again and check the wattage again. I'd take the
average and multiply it by the time a load ran.

The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. Without knowing the volume
of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... about $25 at Costco. I
have one, but haven't used it yet.
--
EA

Existential Angst wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we
hang bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes
0.285kWh. Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer,
and they probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the
air. I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after
switching off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no
heat. After the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and check
the wattage again. I'd take the average and multiply it by the time
a load ran. The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. Without knowing
the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the
cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... about $25 at Costco.
I have one, but haven't used it yet.

You have a 110 V dryer?

"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we
hang bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes
0.285kWh. Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer,
and they probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the
air. I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after
switching off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no
heat. After the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and check
the wattage again. I'd take the average and multiply it by the time
a load ran. The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. Without
knowing the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the
cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... about $25 at Costco.
I have one, but haven't used it yet.

You have a 110 V dryer?

Heh.... good point....
I wonder if you could use two Kill-a-Watts, on different 120 V legs....
I might try that, cuz I bought one for my BIL.
--
EA

Existential Angst wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some
45 minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt
hr. So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we
hang bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes
0.285kWh. Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer,
and they probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the
air. I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after
switching off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no
heat. After the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and
check the wattage again. I'd take the average and multiply it by
the time a load ran. The exit air is warmer than the entrance air.
Without knowing the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the
cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... about $25 at
Costco. I have one, but haven't used it yet.

You have a 110 V dryer?

Heh.... good point....
I wonder if you could use two Kill-a-Watts, on different 120 V
legs.... I might try that, cuz I bought one for my BIL.

Mine is 15A max also, so that could limit you too.

"Existential Angst" writes:
"Bob F" wrote in message
...
Existential Angst wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we
hang bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. Each pound lost takes
0.285kWh. Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer,
and they probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the
air. I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after
switching off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no
heat. After the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and check
the wattage again. I'd take the average and multiply it by the time
a load ran. The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. Without
knowing the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the
cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... about $25 at Costco.
I have one, but haven't used it yet.

You have a 110 V dryer?

Heh.... good point....
I wonder if you could use two Kill-a-Watts, on different 120 V legs....
I might try that, cuz I bought one for my BIL.

Yeah but isn't the 220 draw from hot to hot with the only current
returning through the neutral being the 110v leg that typically runs the
light and the motor. So, I'm not sure that hooking up two of them would
work (plus I'm pretty sure they are not rated at the 35A or so amperage
of a dryer).

I think the easiest thing would be to put a clamp-on ammeter on it --
which shouldn't be too hard since one typically has easy access to the
dryer end of the cord where the wires terminate. Don't forget to measure
current in both legs of course.

Actually, with a clamp-on meter, would you get an accurate rating of
220v current if you clamped around both hot legs but with the direction
of the wire in one of the legs reversed 180 degrees -- my thinking is
that reversing the wire direction would make both currents appear in
phase and hence be additive...

On Jan 27, 8:36*pm, "Existential Angst"
wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in message

...





Existential Angst wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
terry wrote:
Our very conventional old style tumble dryer timer runs for some 45
minutes per load.

With *heater cutting in and out (estimating it's on say 80%?).

Heater elements are either 3000 watts or maybe 4500, haven't had
this one apart yet, since I got it in exchange for a dozen beer!

Our domestic electricity costs a little over 10 cents per k.watt hr.

So one load of clothes 45/60 x 0.8 a cost of electricity = 0.75 x
0.8 x 0.12 = 7 cents per load.

Occasionally it is necessary to run a 'heavy' load, towels and
blankets etc. part of a second run.

So maybe that could be say 12 to 15 cents per load. In summer we
hang bedclothes and towels on outside lines.

Weigh the load going in and coming out. *Each pound lost takes
0.285kWh. Some cotton garments are very heavy going into the dryer,
and they probably cost a lot to dry.

You would have to add the cost of turning the drum and blowing the
air. I could get the wattage by timing my power meter after
switching off all my other circuits and starting a load in with no
heat. *After the load dried, I'd run it without heat again and check
the wattage again. *I'd take the average and multiply it by the time
a load ran. The exit air is warmer than the entrance air. *Without
knowing the
volume of air my dryer blows, I can't tell if that adds much to the
cost.

I think the Kill-a-Watt EZ will do all that. *I believe it measures
instantaneous wattage AND accumulates kWhrs.... *about $25 at Costco..
I have one, but haven't used it yet.

You have a 110 V dryer?

Heh.... *good point....
I wonder if you could use two Kill-a-Watts, on different 120 V legs.... *
I might try that, cuz I bought one for my BIL.
--
EA



I'd recommend trying them both out soon and make sure you save the
receipt until you do. I bought one at Costco last summer. Right out
of the box, one of the keys didn't work, so it was impossible to
use. Took it back and they gave me another one. On that one a
different key didn't work. So, I decided to wait a few months in
the hope that maybe they just had a bad batch. Bought one a couple
months ago and that one is working fine.

Cost to run dryer



I live on the Central Oregon Coast & my electric company says its
about27.6 cents per HR
our rates are 6.14 cents per kilowatt hr.

On Jan 28, 1:22*pm, JP wrote:
Cost to run dryer

I live on the Central Oregon Coast & my electric company says its
about27.6 cents per HR
our rates are 6.14 cents per kilowatt hr.

That's relatively cheap; but does that include ALL the charges.
To get ours I divide the total bill (which includes a per account and
sales tax charges) by total k.w.hrs.
Since we are on an even monthly charge plan, the same every month,
adjusted annually, it's accurate.

On Thu, 28 Jan 2010 09:12:29 -0800, terry wrote:

On Jan 28, 1:22Â*pm, JP wrote:
Cost to run dryer

I live on the Central Oregon Coast & my electric company says its
about27.6 cents per HR
our rates are 6.14 cents per kilowatt hr.

That's relatively cheap; but does that include ALL the charges.
To get ours I divide the total bill (which includes a per account and
sales tax charges) by total k.w.hrs.
Since we are on an even monthly charge plan, the same every month,
adjusted annually, it's accurate.

Our bills do end up all over the place - I just got the latest one a few
minutes ago, and it's currently 4.5 cents / kWh for the stuff we have on
off-peak (heaters, dryer and water heater), then 9.4c/kWh for the first
500 kWh used of 'normal' electric and 7.4c after that. We also get $9.50
off for a "water heater credit" and $4 off for a "dryer credit".

That off-peak rate's certainly less than it was the previous month.

We've just ordered a couple of hundred gallons of propane today, so it'll
be interesting to see what the prices there are like when that gets
delivered.

cheers

Jules

On Jan 28, 1:22*pm, JP wrote:
Cost to run dryer

I live on the Central Oregon Coast & my electric company says its
about27.6 cents per HR
our rates are 6.14 cents per kilowatt hr.

There was one common model we used in one of the Gulf states called
the Indesit, made IIRC in Italy.
It was quickly nicknamed 'THE INDECENT' .
Problem was that once you started it you couldn't open the door! It
didn't use much water and took ages to rock back and forth and 'do' a
wash. Then the problem of drying clothes. Either hanging them up in
front of the AC (even that was dusty) or finally installing a large US
style 230 volt dryer. The electricity btw, was all 230 volt 50 hertz.