I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency furnaces
don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being unlouvered --
probably because they are PVC rather than metal and also smaller diameter.

On Jan 14, 11:56*am, blueman wrote:
I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?

Maybe, but that's not as important as 2)

2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
* *make a significant
*difference (and be advisable)?

Yes, if you do the following:
Louvers are to keep out the weather. In addition your vent must have a
self closing flap such as are used on range hoods. Further, you will
gain something by insulating the metal panel in the window. Do all
that and you likely save a few $$.

Joe

blueman wrote:


-snip-
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficien...95676& sr=8-1

Jim

On Jan 14, 2:01*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
blueman wrote:

-snip-

2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
* make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! * *I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficient-Dryer-Saves-Energy-Costs/dp/B00...

Jim

How do you clean them?

On Thu, 14 Jan 2010 11:28:19 -0800 (PST), Limp Arbor
wrote:

On Jan 14, 2:01*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
blueman wrote:

-snip-

2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
* make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! * *I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficient-Dryer-Saves-Energy-Costs/dp/B00...

Jim

How do you clean them?

The lid is hinged & you can get to the guts.

Jim

blueman wrote:
I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency furnaces
don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being unlouvered --
probably because they are PVC rather than metal and also smaller diameter.

Without a doubt add a louvered exhaust or other kind of back flow preventer.

Insulating the pipe will mean the the pipe will get much warmer when the
dryer is running. This is good. It will tend to keep the pipe/duct
void of condensation and the lint won't stick to it as easy.

Tony writes:

blueman wrote:
I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency furnaces
don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being unlouvered --
probably because they are PVC rather than metal and also smaller diameter.

Without a doubt add a louvered exhaust or other kind of back flow preventer.

Insulating the pipe will mean the the pipe will get much warmer when
the dryer is running. This is good. It will tend to keep the
pipe/duct void of condensation and the lint won't stick to it as easy.

Any suggestions on type of insulation? (safe, effective, professional
looking)

Jim Elbrecht writes:
blueman wrote:


-snip-
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficien...95676& sr=8-1

Jim

Looks like a neat contraption... but my vent is through a basement
window pane (actually the window is 3x1 and one of the panes has been
replaced with sheet metal containing an integrated vent).

Not sure how/if this would be installed in a window without some
customization...

On Thu, 14 Jan 2010 12:56:38 -0500, blueman wrote:

I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?

If needed you can use flex duct casing or fiberglass. Mine was very
cold, but temperatures are now 10-20 warmer.


2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

You might want to try another exterior dryer vent. The flaps will
slow down the cold air movement, yet light enough to allow easy
airflow.


Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency furnaces
don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being unlouvered --
probably because they are PVC rather than metal and also smaller diameter.

"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
blueman wrote:


-snip-
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-
http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficien...95676& sr=8-1

Jim

I also using one of these. Works great and easy to clean IF needed. WW

blueman wrote:
I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely
to make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency
furnaces don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being
unlouvered -- probably because they are PVC rather than metal and
also smaller diameter.

You could just leave it alone. Without a flap, eventually some critter will
make a nest in the duct, effectively sealing it against further air
intrusion.

On Jan 14, 1:01*pm, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
blueman wrote:

-snip-

2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
* make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Yes! * *I put one of these on a few years ago and am impressed with
how well they work-http://www.amazon.com/Super-Efficient-Dryer-Saves-Energy-Costs/dp/B00...

Jim

Thats what I have, I know of no other system like it.

blueman wrote:
Tony writes:

blueman wrote:
I noticed that our exposed sheet metal basement dryer duct gets quite
cold here in the frigid North -- acting like a "reverse" radiator when
the dryer is not in use.

Part of the problem may be due to the fact that their is no louver on
the exterior penetration (it goes through a window pane that has been
replaced with a sheet metal panel with integrated, un-louvered hood).

So, 2 questions:
1. Should the dryer duct be insulated and if so with what product?
2. Would replacing the penetration with something louvered be likely to
make a significant
difference (and be advisable)?

Interestingly, the intake/exhaust pipes on our high efficiency furnaces
don't seem to "radiate" as much cold despite also being unlouvered --
probably because they are PVC rather than metal and also smaller diameter.
Without a doubt add a louvered exhaust or other kind of back flow preventer.

Insulating the pipe will mean the the pipe will get much warmer when
the dryer is running. This is good. It will tend to keep the
pipe/duct void of condensation and the lint won't stick to it as easy.

Any suggestions on type of insulation? (safe, effective, professional
looking)

I'm not sure what to suggest, I'd have to scan the insulation isle at
the depot and lowes. I'm wondering if it would do good inside an
insulated flexible AC/Heating duct, although I doubt it's code. You
could probably put it inside 6" duct.