My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

Chances are you will have to do plumbing. I have a Bradford White, and had
to do plumbing on it, even tho it was a 40 gal, just like the previous
Bradford.

You didn't say if it's gas or electric, if gas, maybe more plumbing.

I'll tell ya, where I work, they have a 13 yr old State, which was rated as
a 9 yr. I do believe I may go with State, my next time around.

I think the engineers sit there and think, how can we **** off our
residential customers. So they will make things 1" shorter or taller!

mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

In some places it is *required* to have flexible water connections to
the water heater, and even if it's not required it's probably not a bad
idea. If you have flexible connections there shouldn't be much of a
problem even if the connections on the new heater aren't exactly the
same as the those on the old one.

Perce

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have
a failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing?
I'd like to install the replacement without having to do any
plumbing. The spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen
at Lowes, but it's really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters
at Home Depot were in cardboard boxes, so I could not see the
connections. Are the State units any better or worse than others?

In some places it is *required* to have flexible water connections to
the water heater, and even if it's not required it's probably not a
bad idea. If you have flexible connections there shouldn't be much of
a problem even if the connections on the new heater aren't exactly the
same as the those on the old one.

Perce

Aye, flexible is good. Get the corrugated copper ones, and make a mandrel
out of something to bend them around (like a round post or 3"-4" pvc/abs
pipe).

When you buy them, make sure you get the ones that haven't been "pre-bent"
by bored customers.

Jon

On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 18:16:25 -0800, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have
a failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing?
I'd like to install the replacement without having to do any
plumbing. The spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen
at Lowes, but it's really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters
at Home Depot were in cardboard boxes, so I could not see the
connections. Are the State units any better or worse than others?

In some places it is *required* to have flexible water connections to
the water heater, and even if it's not required it's probably not a
bad idea. If you have flexible connections there shouldn't be much of
a problem even if the connections on the new heater aren't exactly the
same as the those on the old one.

Perce

Aye, flexible is good. Get the corrugated copper ones, and make a mandrel
out of something to bend them around (like a round post or 3"-4" pvc/abs
pipe).

When you buy them, make sure you get the ones that haven't been "pre-bent"
by bored customers.

Jon


I use this type. No corrosion and NOT a leak in 5 years.

http://softsolder.files.wordpress.co...-heat-trap.jpg

mcp6453 wrote:
My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

Has anyone ever looked at the inside diameter of those flex hookups for
water heaters? I won't use them just because they are tiny inside.
Even the biggest ones i've looked at are only 1/2" inside. Kinda voids
out all the 3/4" plumbing, doesn't it?

Jon Danniken wrote:
Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have
a failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing?
I'd like to install the replacement without having to do any
plumbing. The spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen
at Lowes, but it's really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters
at Home Depot were in cardboard boxes, so I could not see the
connections. Are the State units any better or worse than others?

In some places it is *required* to have flexible water connections to
the water heater, and even if it's not required it's probably not a
bad idea. If you have flexible connections there shouldn't be much of
a problem even if the connections on the new heater aren't exactly the
same as the those on the old one.

Perce

Aye, flexible is good. Get the corrugated copper ones, and make a mandrel
out of something to bend them around (like a round post or 3"-4" pvc/abs
pipe).

When you buy them, make sure you get the ones that haven't been "pre-bent"
by bored customers.

Jon


Hi.
Last time when tank was replaced I used corrugated copper ones. Swell job.

Oren wrote:
"Jon Danniken" wrote:

Aye, flexible is good. Get the corrugated copper ones, and make a
mandrel out of something to bend them around (like a round post or
3"-4" pvc/abs pipe).

When you buy them, make sure you get the ones that haven't been
"pre-bent" by bored customers.

Jon


I use this type. No corrosion and NOT a leak in 5 years.

http://softsolder.files.wordpress.co...-heat-trap.jpg

I bought one of those for my recent installation, but I didn't use it
because it kinked when it was bent (so did the stainless-jacketed version as
well). Probably wouldn't make a difference in the application, but I didn't
like that.

I also didn't trust it, as it stated it didn't want to be exposed to a
constant (IIRC) 115F (although there are stainless steel jacketed versions
without that warning), and I feel a lot more secure about using the
corrugated copper sections.

I'm sure they work fine, though, or they probably wouldn't sell them with
the cold water heater supplies, but my inner plumber made me get the copper
bendies instead.

Jon

On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 20:40:05 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water

Those are made at the State Prison, right?

heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd

Standard?

like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

I'm pretty sure they would open the box for you if you asked, or
wouldn't yell at you if you opened it yourself neatly. That is,
peeling it back where it was glued, and put all the packing back where
it was originall.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

Maryland is a wonderful state.

I wanted to replace my A.O.Smith water heater with one which had the
same spacing (and the hot on the same side, so the water heater
wouldn't have to face the wall!) and I went about 4 places (where 15
years ago I had no trouble measuring the spacing any place I went) and
finally found the same dimensions at Sears. (I would give you details
about how Sears won't deliver unless you let them install it, but
there's no special reason yet to think that the Sears one will match
yours.)

It was actually pretty hard to replace the water heater, since the
couplings I bought had a dimple in them, that prevented one from being
pushed all the way onto one of the pipes. I couldn't push the pipe up
because it was attached to floor joists above. And I didn't know they
sold another model with no dimple!

Then the second time I needed a heater, I went straight to Sears but
after 25 years, I think the one I wanted was taller, but the distance
between was still the same.

Evenentually I learned about flex-pipe, and maybe I should have just
used that. I don't think of myself as compulsive -- I'm certainly not
in almost all areas. But I do like the clean look without flex hoses.
Maybe it's because they didn't have such things for the first 20 or 30
years of my life, so I think of it as related to the damn hippie
freaks who are ruining this country.


BTW, a couple years ago I posted here concerned that when I opened the
box, I saw that the top was caved it up to an inch iirc, and asked
whether that was important. Most people told me to take it back, but
the weather wasn't as good as when I bought it, and I only have the
the trunk of my convertible and only when the top is down to carry it,
and I was in a hurry, and I figured they trash it (which I thought
wasn't necessary and would be a waste) so I just installed it, and so
far, two years later, no problem.

I don't know if I knew when I posted that one of the pipes wasn't even
vertical anymore. It was hard to tell until the time came to connect
it to the water supply. I had to push. But that's been no problem
either.

These AOSmith/Sears heaters don't have a glass liner, and don't claim
to. They have a 3/16" layer of vinyl with maybe some or a lot of
glass in it. It's not going to break and crumble at the bottom just
because it's banged on or the top is twisted, as I have gotten the
impression glass lines one sometimes do. In fact it bent but didn't
come anywhere close to breaking when I was ripping it out of the
previous water heater, that I cut into slices.

Oren wrote:
On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 18:16:25 -0800, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:

Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:

My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have
a failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing?
I'd like to install the replacement without having to do any
plumbing. The spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen
at Lowes, but it's really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters
at Home Depot were in cardboard boxes, so I could not see the
connections. Are the State units any better or worse than others?
In some places it is *required* to have flexible water connections to
the water heater, and even if it's not required it's probably not a
bad idea. If you have flexible connections there shouldn't be much of
a problem even if the connections on the new heater aren't exactly the
same as the those on the old one.

Perce
Aye, flexible is good. Get the corrugated copper ones, and make a mandrel
out of something to bend them around (like a round post or 3"-4" pvc/abs
pipe).

When you buy them, make sure you get the ones that haven't been "pre-bent"
by bored customers.

Jon


I use this type. No corrosion and NOT a leak in 5 years.

http://softsolder.files.wordpress.co...-heat-trap.jpg

Dang! Did you wash and wax the heater before taking the pictures? They
come out of the box dirtier than that!

Steve Barker wrote:

Has anyone ever looked at the inside diameter of those flex hookups for
water heaters? I won't use them just because they are tiny inside.
Even the biggest ones i've looked at are only 1/2" inside. Kinda voids
out all the 3/4" plumbing, doesn't it?

That was my issue with them. Hooking up a water softener for a relative and
didn't want to break out the torch, so I thought I'd use water heater flex
lines. Ha! Anything more than a vanity faucet running would max out the capacity
of the line. Ended up sweating the connection.

mcp6453 wrote:
My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

I was doing a job for a friend and the new heater was about 1.5 inches
taller. The bad part is that almost immediately after attached to the
old heater, the hot pipe had a T in it so I couldn't just cut the pipe
and raise the fitting. There wasn't an easy fix (I should have taken a
picture). I ended up making a double U up and down to the new heater.
Sure wish I would have known about those flexible hoses, although I
don't think there was enough clearance for the bottom hose or pipe to
flex enough without a kink anyway.

Must be something about trailers, my house trailer has one flex copper
pipe, and an old camper trailer had the same thing but the local
plumbing supply at the time said they never saw one. (the old one in
the camper had froze and burst before I bought it).

On Dec 12, 11:46�am, Tony wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:
My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

I was doing a job for a friend and the new heater was about 1.5 inches
taller. �The bad part is that almost immediately after attached to the
old heater, the hot pipe had a T in it so I couldn't just cut the pipe
and raise the fitting. �There wasn't an easy fix (I should have taken a
picture). �I ended up making a double U up and down to the new heater.
Sure wish I would have known about those flexible hoses, although I
don't think there was enough clearance for the bottom hose or pipe to
flex enough without a kink anyway.

Must be something about trailers, my house trailer has one flex copper
pipe, and an old camper trailer had the same thing but the local
plumbing supply at the time said they never saw one. �(the old one in
the camper had froze and burst before I bought it).

upside down U sss are ideal heat traps. heat only rises, saves some
energy.

solid copper is a bit more work but does help support the tank.

i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:33:25 -0700, Robert Neville
wrote:

Steve Barker wrote:

Has anyone ever looked at the inside diameter of those flex hookups for
water heaters? I won't use them just because they are tiny inside.
Even the biggest ones i've looked at are only 1/2" inside. Kinda voids
out all the 3/4" plumbing, doesn't it?

That was my issue with them. Hooking up a water softener for a relative and
didn't want to break out the torch, so I thought I'd use water heater flex
lines. Ha! Anything more than a vanity faucet running would max out the capacity
of the line. Ended up sweating the connection.

You guys and hallerb make me feel better about my using non-flex.
It's really not that hard, and the only times I've ever sweated pipe
are the 2 water heaters.

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:35:28 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

See: SharkBite® Flexible Water Heater Connectors

"Commercial or residential connections using copper, CTS CPVC and
PEX."

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_flexhose.php

Spec sheet:

Maximum pressure . . . . . . . . . . 200 psi
Maximum temperature . . . . . . . 200°F (93°C)
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potable water

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_..._Connector.pdf

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:35:28 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 12, 11:46?am, Tony wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:
My State Industries electic, low profile, 40-gallon, six-year water
heater is almost 10 years old. I'm going to replace it before I have a
failure.

Are the water connections on the top of the unit standard spacing? I'd
like to install the replacement without having to do any plumbing. The
spacing appears to be the same as the ones I've seen at Lowes, but it's
really hard to tell for sure. The water heaters at Home Depot were in
cardboard boxes, so I could not see the connections.

Are the State units any better or worse than others?

I was doing a job for a friend and the new heater was about 1.5 inches
taller. ?The bad part is that almost immediately after attached to the
old heater, the hot pipe had a T in it so I couldn't just cut the pipe
and raise the fitting. ?There wasn't an easy fix (I should have taken a
picture). ?I ended up making a double U up and down to the new heater.
Sure wish I would have known about those flexible hoses, although I
don't think there was enough clearance for the bottom hose or pipe to
flex enough without a kink anyway.

Must be something about trailers, my house trailer has one flex copper
pipe, and an old camper trailer had the same thing but the local
plumbing supply at the time said they never saw one. ?(the old one in
the camper had froze and burst before I bought it).

upside down U sss are ideal heat traps. heat only rises, saves some
energy.

solid copper is a bit more work but does help support the tank.

i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out


If you want a water heater that YOU will not need to replace again,
get a stone-lined tank. Conservatively rated at 25 year lifespan. But
DON'T drop it!!!!

On Dec 12, 2:33�pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:35:28 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

See: SharkBite� Flexible Water Heater Connectors

"Commercial or residential connections using copper, CTS CPVC and
PEX."

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_flexhose.php

Spec sheet:

Maximum pressure . . . . . . . . . . 200 psi
Maximum temperature . . . . . . . 200�F (93�C)
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potable water

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_...sharkbite/SB_W...

self installs are rarely code compliant. a good friends husband used
the flex couplings the heater can easily rock, he didnt bother putting
a line on the TP valve, saying it wasnt necessary. major scald issue,
the TP points toward a hallway of sorts in the basement

a real hack job that could hurt his family

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 15:12:22 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Dec 12, 2:33?pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:35:28 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

See: SharkBite? Flexible Water Heater Connectors

"Commercial or residential connections using copper, CTS CPVC and
PEX."

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_flexhose.php

Spec sheet:

Maximum pressure . . . . . . . . . . 200 psi
Maximum temperature . . . . . . . 200?F (93?C)
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potable water

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_...sharkbite/SB_W...

self installs are rarely code compliant. a good friends husband used
the flex couplings the heater can easily rock, he didnt bother putting
a line on the TP valve, saying it wasnt necessary. major scald issue,
the TP points toward a hallway of sorts in the basement

a real hack job that could hurt his family

Seems like your friend did a hack job, if the heater rocked easily -
regardless of flex lines?

All I lack is an earthquake strap. I'll put one on one of these days.

In the mean time flex lines mentioned above work fine. I know youse
guys in Philly do things different.

The Op is absent, but he wanted to avoid sweating/cuttin' copper on a
unit. Flex will work!

Oren wrote:

The Op is absent, but he wanted to avoid sweating/cuttin' copper on a
unit. Flex will work!

It sometimes takes a day or three, but I read every response to each
post I make. This newsgroup is fantastic. It has a wealth of
information. Thanks.

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:50:17 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

Oren wrote:

The Op is absent, but he wanted to avoid sweating/cuttin' copper on a
unit. Flex will work!

It sometimes takes a day or three, but I read every response to each
post I make. This newsgroup is fantastic. It has a wealth of
information. Thanks.

Actually, my thanks. We never hear from many posters, here. They post
and run off.

Oren wrote:

i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

self installs are rarely code compliant. a good friends husband used
the flex couplings the heater can easily rock, he didnt bother putting
a line on the TP valve, saying it wasnt necessary. major scald issue,
the TP points toward a hallway of sorts in the basement

a real hack job that could hurt his family

Seems like your friend did a hack job, if the heater rocked easily -
regardless of flex lines?

All I lack is an earthquake strap. I'll put one on one of these days.


I replaced our WH earlier this year, using flexible connections. No
rocking that I can detect, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to add an
earthquake strap. But what do I strap it to? The original WH was not up
against a wall, and I put the new one in the same place. I guess I could
install a stud between a joist (unfinished ceiling) and the floor and
strap the WH to that. Comments?

We're in the Midwest.

Perce

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:34:30 -0500, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

Oren wrote:

i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out

If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

self installs are rarely code compliant. a good friends husband used
the flex couplings the heater can easily rock, he didnt bother putting
a line on the TP valve, saying it wasnt necessary. major scald issue,
the TP points toward a hallway of sorts in the basement

a real hack job that could hurt his family

Seems like your friend did a hack job, if the heater rocked easily -
regardless of flex lines?

All I lack is an earthquake strap. I'll put one on one of these days.


I replaced our WH earlier this year, using flexible connections. No
rocking that I can detect, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to add an
earthquake strap. But what do I strap it to? The original WH was not up
against a wall, and I put the new one in the same place. I guess I could
install a stud between a joist (unfinished ceiling) and the floor and
strap the WH to that. Comments?

We're in the Midwest.

Perce

The strap looks like this. Each end of the strap is anchored in the
wall stud. See instructions in the kit. A ten minute job or less.

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto...ation_Full.jpg

Oren wrote:

I replaced our WH earlier this year, using flexible connections. No
rocking that I can detect, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to add an
earthquake strap. But what do I strap it to? The original WH was not up
against a wall, and I put the new one in the same place. I guess I could
install a stud between a joist (unfinished ceiling) and the floor and
strap the WH to that. Comments?

We're in the Midwest.

The strap looks like this. Each end of the strap is anchored in the
wall stud. See instructions in the kit. A ten minute job or less.

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto...ation_Full.jpg


Nearest wall is three feet away from the water heater.

Perce

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 20:11:28 -0500, "Percival P. Cassidy"
wrote:

Oren wrote:

I replaced our WH earlier this year, using flexible connections. No
rocking that I can detect, but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to add an
earthquake strap. But what do I strap it to? The original WH was not up
against a wall, and I put the new one in the same place. I guess I could
install a stud between a joist (unfinished ceiling) and the floor and
strap the WH to that. Comments?

We're in the Midwest.

The strap looks like this. Each end of the strap is anchored in the
wall stud. See instructions in the kit. A ten minute job or less.

http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto...ation_Full.jpg


Nearest wall is three feet away from the water heater.

Perce

Okay. Soon the law/code will require you to move the wall, so you can
match them up.

On purpose I don't follow some left coast rules....

Heater hasn't fell over when I touched it, yet. Nor, has it broke a
flex line.

wrote:
On Dec 12, 2:33�pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 09:35:28 -0800 (PST), "

wrote:
i have seen tanks with flexible lines rock easily just by touching.
motion might cause a flex line blow out
If the heater rocked when touched, I think there would a problem other
than flex lines. Our code now requires an "earthquake" strap. I
skipped that step for now..

See: SharkBite� Flexible Water Heater Connectors

"Commercial or residential connections using copper, CTS CPVC and
PEX."

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite_flexhose.php

Spec sheet:

Maximum pressure . . . . . . . . . . 200 psi
Maximum temperature . . . . . . . 200�F (93�C)
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potable water

http://www.cashacme.com/_images/pdf_...sharkbite/SB_W...

self installs are rarely code compliant. a good friends husband used
the flex couplings the heater can easily rock, he didnt bother putting
a line on the TP valve, saying it wasnt necessary. major scald issue,
the TP points toward a hallway of sorts in the basement

a real hack job that could hurt his family

Freedom means "personal responsibility". If someone gets hurt, the
hack will be looking for someone else to blame.

TDD

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:50:17 -0500, mcp6453 wrote:

Oren wrote:

The Op is absent, but he wanted to avoid sweating/cuttin' copper on a
unit. Flex will work!
It sometimes takes a day or three, but I read every response to each
post I make. This newsgroup is fantastic. It has a wealth of
information. Thanks.

Actually, my thanks. We never hear from many posters, here. They post
and run off.

Yes, agreed. It's nice when they come back and let us know how things
worked out, or not!