I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

On Nov 3, 10:48*am, MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). *Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. *The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. *I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. *I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. *But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. *I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. *Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. *What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. *If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

Bugs, particularly ants and termites, love eating the foam for some
reason. You don't have ants or termites in your area, do you? Yes?
Below grade is a bad idea. DAGS.

R

On Nov 3, 7:48*am, MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). *Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. *The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. *I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. *I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. *But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. *I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. *Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. *What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. *If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

MC-

I would have shoved some hardware cloth into the cavity and filled
with cementious material. Maybe sleeved the block by dry packing the
next 1/2 sized pipe in place and then caulked the resulting annual
gap.

Those canned foams are ok for some uses but they aren't cheap, hard
(impossible?) to re-use and not very strong. One trick to discourage
rodents is to embed 1/4" hardware cloth in the foam. The little
critters give up & look elsewhere.

Bugs don't "eat it" per se but they do eat "chew" into it, burrow,
nest, etc. Its a decent weather barrier (if covered) but cannot
survive the sustained attack from animals. I tend to consider more
like very soft wood & only use it were wood is appropriate (a bit
conservative)

I have drain plumbing penetrations through the sills of my 1930's
house that have been filled with a simple cement / sand mix ...still
working just fine. If there are small gaps, I fill with latex or
epoxy caulk to limit air infiltration and insect access.

Hilti makes a more professional gun type foam applicator that uses
sightly bigger cans and is somewhat cheaper per in^3.


cheers
Bob

On Nov 3, 9:48*am, MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). *Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. *The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. *I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. *I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. *But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. *I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. *Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. *What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. *If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

I had a chipmunk burrow into my foamboard and I saw a wood pecker
trying to make a nest where I never finished some trim. Carpenter ants
are known to make nests in foamboard and it wont stop tree roots and
is not stabil, it deteriorates in air, very quickly in sun. For
rodents, copper or stainless steel, cooking pan scouring pads work.

On Nov 3, 10:48*am, MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). *Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. *The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. *I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. *I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. *But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. *I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. *Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. *What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. *If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam,
door and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are differences in the expanding properties of the different
brands/types. There are "expanding foams" and "minimal expanding
foams". Polyurethane foams and Latex foams. There is also Foam
Pressure to consider. Low Pressure does not necessarily mean Low
Expansion.

For example, take a look at the Great Stuff Window and Door compared
to DAP Window and Door.

Great Stuff says to fill the cavity to 50% to allow for expansion, DAP
says to fill to 90%. (I just did a window with DAP and I can attest to
the 90% number.)

I've heard of issues with some foams actually bowing the frames of
vinyl windows due to over-expansion. DAP is supposed to be safe in
that regard. There are other brands such as Hilti to consider also.

Check out this thread:

http://www.vinyl-replacement-windows...opic.php?t=546

wrote in news
On Tue, 3 Nov 2009 08:44:26 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK
wrote:

One trick to discourage
rodents is to embed 1/4" hardware cloth in the foam. The little
critters give up & look elsewhere.

"Discourage" is the right word. A motivated rat will chew right
through hardware cloth.
Usually rats chew to get out and then come back in that way once they
establish the route.


Enough with the political comments :-)

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.

TDD

Van Chocstraw wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary, but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not got to
the bottom of it). Anyways I drilled a hole through the block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. The hole is uneven and it's through
a hollow block wall. I don't need to insulate it since it's 18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots, rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. I patched it with concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. But the entire hollowed space in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have hollowed out
for recessed boxes. I am thinking of filling those with foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks, the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. Being in Miami I would like to insulate
best I can. What do you recommend be the most effective way to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.

TDD

Depends on how soon after they start the car. They could just blow it
all out if it's still wet.

That's why you use a long extension tube that will reach way
up in there to the muffler. *snicker*

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:
Van Chocstraw wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
(snip)
These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.

TDD

Depends on how soon after they start the car. They could just blow it
all out if it's still wet.

That's why you use a long extension tube that will reach way
up in there to the muffler. *snicker*

TDD

A large Idaho potato and short length of broom stick works well, and is
a lot cheaper.

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Van Chocstraw wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
MiamiCuse wrote:
(snip)
These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

That stuff works great up the tailpipe of some jerks BMW too.

TDD

Depends on how soon after they start the car. They could just blow it
all out if it's still wet.

That's why you use a long extension tube that will reach way
up in there to the muffler. *snicker*

TDD

A large Idaho potato and short length of broom stick works well, and is
a lot cheaper.

--
aem sends...

The tater is easy to get out but a muffler full of foam.........

TDD

I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
last a lot longer.

I've heard that criters and insects don't go near it, but
others have found differently. I'd go ahead, and foam it in.
A couple of hints from experience:

* You get one use of the can. Plan several projects, and use
the entire cat at one time.
* The uncured stuff doesn't come off of hands, clothing,
etc. Handle it like chem bio waste, and don't touch it.
* Have an empty shopping bag, in your pocket. When you're
finished, shove the can and tube into the bag.
* After it's cured (next day) you can trim or shape it with
razor knife, or sharp steak knife. Cured foam is not
dangerous to hands, clothes, etc.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a question on those foam sealant especially the GREAT
STUFF
products.

First, I think those are basically for insulation and
nothing else,
right?

Would you use it in places where no insulation is necessary,
but you
still want to put up a water tight barrier?

For example, I have a 3" PVC pipe that exits the house below
the slab
through the block wall (the block wall extends below the
slab to at
least 24" below, don't really know how deep it goes have not
got to
the bottom of it). Anyways I drilled a hole through the
block wall
about 3"x3" for the pipe to pass. The hole is uneven and
it's through
a hollow block wall. I don't need to insulate it since it's
18" below
my concrete slab, but I want to stop bugs, tree roots,
rodents, or
rain runoffs from coming through it. I patched it with
concrete mix
on the outside of the hole. But the entire hollowed space
in between,
do I spray the cavity with this foam stuff?

Are there any fundamental differences between the Fireblock
foam, door
and window foam, cracks and gaps foam and big gap foam?

There are many places in my block wall electricians have
hollowed out
for recessed boxes. I am thinking of filling those with
foam.
However since the wall is made of hollowed concrete blocks,
the space
behind the hole is big, sometimes it extends above and below
to the
voids of the adjacent blocks. Being in Miami I would like
to insulate
best I can. What do you recommend be the most effective way
to seal
these holes?

These small cans are expensive at $4-$7 a can. If I need
larger
quantities, they don't sell them in garbage can sizes?

MC

Stormin Mormon wrote:
I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
last a lot longer.

(snip)


Maybe in warm and/or dry areas. I tried that up here in salt country
once, and it rotted the whole area out, while the rocker/C-pillar on the
other side stayed fine by comparision. I ended up popping the bondo
plugs out, and digging the foam out as best I could with a coat hanger,
and mudding the whole thing with the fiber-reinforced bondo stuff over
the traditional filler of wadded up window screen. Best I can figure,
since the space wasn't totally filled or sealed, it held water against
the backside of the bare steel in the dead space. It seemed like a good
idea at the time, but it bit me in the butt. Perhaps if it was done on
bone-dry virgin metal where rust didn't already have a foothold, it
would work better.

--
aem sends...

On Nov 4, 9:53*pm, aemeijers wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
last a lot longer.

(snip)

Maybe in warm and/or dry areas. I tried that up here in salt country
once, and it rotted the whole area out, while the rocker/C-pillar on the
other side stayed fine by comparision. I ended up popping the bondo
plugs out, and digging the foam out as best I could with a coat hanger,
and mudding the whole thing with the fiber-reinforced bondo stuff over
the traditional filler of wadded up window screen. Best I can figure,
since the space wasn't totally filled or sealed, it held water against
the backside of the bare steel in the dead space. It seemed like a good
idea at the time, but it bit me in the butt. Perhaps if it was done on
bone-dry virgin metal where rust didn't already have a foothold, it
would work better.

I wouldn't count on it. It's the same thing as a building. It either
dries to the inside, or dries to the outside. If you prevent drying,
you will get rust.

R

Rochester, NY is neither warm, nor dry. And they salt the
roads to excess.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
I have used the foam to fill in voids, in vehicle sheet
metal. Helps keep moisture out, and rocker panels and such
last a lot longer.

(snip)


Maybe in warm and/or dry areas. I tried that up here in salt
country
once, and it rotted the whole area out, while the
rocker/C-pillar on the
other side stayed fine by comparision. I ended up popping
the bondo
plugs out, and digging the foam out as best I could with a
coat hanger,
and mudding the whole thing with the fiber-reinforced bondo
stuff over
the traditional filler of wadded up window screen. Best I
can figure,
since the space wasn't totally filled or sealed, it held
water against
the backside of the bare steel in the dead space. It seemed
like a good
idea at the time, but it bit me in the butt. Perhaps if it
was done on
bone-dry virgin metal where rust didn't already have a
foothold, it
would work better.

--
aem sends...