On Sep 23, 12:13*am, Josh wrote:
I'm replacing my old kitchen sink and all the plumbing underneath it.
I'll probably use all plastic/PVC for the drain pipes. *Anyway,
everything has gone reasonably well until I tried to unscrew the metal
waste pipe that runs from the trap to the main sewer pipe in the
wall. *I'm sure it's been in there since the house was built in 1959
and I can't get it to budge, even with a 24" pipe wrench.

This particular one looks like very tarnished copper, about 7" long
and 1 1/2" in diameter. *It appears to be sweat soldered on to a 2"
bushing or threaded male adapter, which is threaded into the main pipe
in the wall. *They used a lot of pipe joint compound on the threads,
and it's hardened. *I've squirted Liquid wrench on in 3 times, but
since it's running horizontially I don't think it's penetrating very
far.

Any of you professional or experienced amateur plumbers got any tips
on how to deal with it?

I've been using the pipe wrench near the trap, so I won't accidentally
damage the new hot & cold water plumbing. *Also, I've got more room to
work out there. *Would I be able to apply more torque closer to the
wall (connection)? *Not as much room to work close to the wall,
because of the other plumbing.

Why not just leave it, cut off the pipe, leaving enough to put a no-
hub coupling like one of these:

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/...-1&req=catalog

On Sep 23, 6:30*am, Mike rock wrote:
On Sep 23, 12:13*am, Josh wrote:





I'm replacing my old kitchen sink and all the plumbing underneath it.
I'll probably use all plastic/PVC for the drain pipes. *Anyway,
everything has gone reasonably well until I tried to unscrew the metal
waste pipe that runs from the trap to the main sewer pipe in the
wall. *I'm sure it's been in there since the house was built in 1959
and I can't get it to budge, even with a 24" pipe wrench.

This particular one looks like very tarnished copper, about 7" long
and 1 1/2" in diameter. *It appears to be sweat soldered on to a 2"
bushing or threaded male adapter, which is threaded into the main pipe
in the wall. *They used a lot of pipe joint compound on the threads,
and it's hardened. *I've squirted Liquid wrench on in 3 times, but
since it's running horizontially I don't think it's penetrating very
far.

Any of you professional or experienced amateur plumbers got any tips
on how to deal with it?

I've been using the pipe wrench near the trap, so I won't accidentally
damage the new hot & cold water plumbing. *Also, I've got more room to
work out there. *Would I be able to apply more torque closer to the
wall (connection)? *Not as much room to work close to the wall,
because of the other plumbing.

Why not just leave it, cut off the pipe, leaving enough to put a no-
hub coupling like one of these:

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/...uctDetails...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Another alternative, if you are VERY CAREFUL, is to use a propane
torch to heat the pipe and maybe soften up the pipe joint cement. I
personally like the coupling solution, it is easy to do if you can get
at the pipe somewhere to cut it, it doesn't even have to be a
perfectly clean cut as long as the cuplng can slide over it.

On Sep 23, 11:54*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Sep 23, 6:30*am, Mike rock wrote:



On Sep 23, 12:13*am, Josh wrote:

I'm replacing my old kitchen sink and all the plumbing underneath it.
I'll probably use all plastic/PVC for the drain pipes. *Anyway,
everything has gone reasonably well until I tried to unscrew the metal
waste pipe that runs from the trap to the main sewer pipe in the
wall. *I'm sure it's been in there since the house was built in 1959
and I can't get it to budge, even with a 24" pipe wrench.

This particular one looks like very tarnished copper, about 7" long
and 1 1/2" in diameter. *It appears to be sweat soldered on to a 2"
bushing or threaded male adapter, which is threaded into the main pipe
in the wall. *They used a lot of pipe joint compound on the threads,
and it's hardened. *I've squirted Liquid wrench on in 3 times, but
since it's running horizontially I don't think it's penetrating very
far.

Any of you professional or experienced amateur plumbers got any tips
on how to deal with it?

I've been using the pipe wrench near the trap, so I won't accidentally
damage the new hot & cold water plumbing. *Also, I've got more room to
work out there. *Would I be able to apply more torque closer to the
wall (connection)? *Not as much room to work close to the wall,
because of the other plumbing.

Why not just leave it, cut off the pipe, leaving enough to put a no-
hub coupling like one of these:

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/...Details...Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Another alternative, if you are VERY CAREFUL, is to use a propane
torch to heat the pipe and maybe soften up the pipe joint cement. *I
personally like the coupling solution, it is easy to do if you can get
at the pipe somewhere to cut it, it doesn't even have to be a
perfectly clean cut as long as the cuplng can slide over it.

I couldn't get enough leverage on the wrench and put a scissor jack
under the handle of the jack to break it loose. Need I say you must be
careful doing something like this. Recently I learned that most sinks
come out fairly easily and pulling the sink out to get room to work
from the top can be a good idea to get leverage and comfort while you
are working. Taking the sink out and putting it back in took maybe an
hour that I probably got back on other parts of the job. Using the
jack on the last sink I repaired would have been a really bad idea as
someone had glued ALL the PVC parts that normally screw together.

Jimmie

A friend of mine is a social worker. He describes what he
calls "vertical thinking" as: if it isn't working, do it
harder. "Horizontal thinking" is if it isn't working, try
something different.

You just provided a perfect example of horizontal thinking.
And, I do greatly respect that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Mike rock" wrote in message
...

Why not just leave it, cut off the pipe, leaving enough to
put a no-
hub coupling like one of these:

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/...-1&req=catalog

Please check your shipping crate. Your coupling is missing
an o, and an i. Might be in the bottom of the package.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

at the pipe somewhere to cut it, it doesn't even have to
be a
perfectly clean cut as long as the cuplng can slide over
it.