I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.

"Josh" wrote in message
...
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.

Stranded is fine

RBM wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
...
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.

Stranded is fine



Dumb question- why does code now require that little jumper wire? From
the time grounded residential wiring became normal (late 50s to early
60s?), to the time I quit hanging around on active construction
sites(late 70s), SOP was metal boxes, with the bond wire wrapped around
the romex jacket and captured under the metal strain reliefs. Outlet was
grounded by virtue of the metal device ears being screwed directly to
the metal box ears. When and why did that stop being good enough any more?

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
RBM wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
...
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.

Stranded is fine

Dumb question- why does code now require that little jumper wire? From the
time grounded residential wiring became normal (late 50s to early 60s?),
to the time I quit hanging around on active construction sites(late 70s),
SOP was metal boxes, with the bond wire wrapped around the romex jacket
and captured under the metal strain reliefs. Outlet was grounded by virtue
of the metal device ears being screwed directly to the metal box ears.
When and why did that stop being good enough any more?

--
aem sends...

It was around that time that grounding receptacles became the code, and the
Nec decided that the undersized copper wire in the romex should become equal
sized and have a proper termination to the box. I suppose at the same time,
they felt that the attaching screws of receptacles weren't adequate for
grounding purposes, and introduced the grounding conductor pigtail. Today,
there are a number of acceptable methods including self-grounding
receptacles, which have a small spring that contacts the attaching screws
for better conduction

wrote:
On Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:48:14 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

RBM wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
...
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.
Stranded is fine


Dumb question- why does code now require that little jumper wire? From
the time grounded residential wiring became normal (late 50s to early
60s?), to the time I quit hanging around on active construction
sites(late 70s), SOP was metal boxes, with the bond wire wrapped around
the romex jacket and captured under the metal strain reliefs.

I am not aware that was ever code compliant. Certainly isn't now.

Outlet was
grounded by virtue of the metal device ears being screwed directly to
the metal box ears. When and why did that stop being good enough any more?

It is legal to skip the screw if this is a "handy box" and the device
is made up tight to the box. Some AHJs also want the fiber washer
removed,

It is required that at least one fiber washer be removed (250.146-A).

For a raised cover with a receptacle for a 4x4 box, you used to be able
to use the single cover screw on the receptacle for grounding. Now you
need 2 screws from receptacle to raised cover. They have to have a
"thread locking" or "screw locking means" (I never figured out what that
means).

--
bud--

In article , Josh wrote:
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code?

No, and it doesn't have to have green insulation either. A solid bare wire is
fine.

On Sat, 19 Sep 2009 22:48:14 -0400, aemeijers
wrote:

RBM wrote:
"Josh" wrote in message
...
I'm adding a couple of outlets in my kitchen, and using metal boxes.
Does the short insulated green wire which grounds the outlet to the
box HAVE to be solid to comply with the electrical code? I don't have
any solid green wire on hand but I've got a whole spool of 12 Gauge
green insulated stranded copper wire.

I know a foot or two of solid green wire is not a major expense. I
just hate to drive to Lowes' if the stranded wire I already have is
acceptable.

Stranded is fine



Dumb question- why does code now require that little jumper wire? From
the time grounded residential wiring became normal (late 50s to early
60s?), to the time I quit hanging around on active construction
sites(late 70s), SOP was metal boxes, with the bond wire wrapped around
the romex jacket and captured under the metal strain reliefs. Outlet was
grounded by virtue of the metal device ears being screwed directly to
the metal box ears. When and why did that stop being good enough any more?
Long ago they started putting "bonding screws" on the boxes -
pinching the ground under the clamp is a very poor quality ground
connection. As for the ground, by code it does not need to be
insulated, and if uninsulated does not need to be green.
If bare wire is used, make sure it stys on the neutral (white wire)
side of the outlet.