Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

On Aug 31, 8:31*am, Jules
wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

Measure your dog's head. I bet you could even get away with a 4 inch
space. In any event, you're right to want to leave some room for
maintenance.

On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules
wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?

On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules





wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.

On Aug 31, 12:42*pm, mike wrote:
On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules

wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. *It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?

What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?

On Aug 31, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 31, 12:42*pm, mike wrote:





On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules

wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. *It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?

What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. What did you read that implied that
he was opposed to a wooden fence?

On Aug 31, 12:52*pm, mike wrote:
On Aug 31, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Aug 31, 12:42*pm, mike wrote:

On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules

wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. *It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?

What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. *What did you read that implied that
he was opposed to a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I saw no opposition to a wooden fence at all. What did you read in my
post that implied I saw an implied opposition in the OP?

Your post was very specific as to the installation of 2 x 4 rails,
including the orientation of the face.

I was simply asking why you thought 2 x 4's (or even wood) were
involved when the OP asked only about the installation of the post.

On Aug 31, 10:09*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 31, 12:52*pm, mike wrote:





On Aug 31, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 12:42*pm, mike wrote:

On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules

wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. *It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?

What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. *What did you read that implied that
he was opposed to a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I saw no opposition to a wooden fence at all. What did you read in my
post that implied I saw an implied opposition in the OP?

Your post was very specific as to the installation of 2 x 4 rails,
including the orientation of the face.

I was simply asking why you thought 2 x 4's (or even wood) were
involved when the OP asked only about the installation of the post.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. How many times do I have to say it?
Why do you think that wood is not going to be involved? Wood fences
happen to make it very easy to cantilever a fence beyond the post if
needed.

What's your problem? Why don't you let Jules say what is and is not
acceptable? Is your name Jules?

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:31:41 -0500, Jules wrote:


Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

OK, thanks for the replies so far - some answers to other things
mentioned:

Yep, wooden fence with galvanised vinyl-coated 3x2" mesh over the top
(expensive stuff, but I was given a roll a while ago which'll do 2/3 of
the job, so silly not to use it as it seems like it'll last a long time).

I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails - but
putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as possible (that way
I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to dig it into the ground, but
I can always bury cheap chicken wire right at the bottom later if the dogs
work out how to dig underneath).

Electric pet fences - I'm not too sure about these. The neighbor has one,
and it's a pain in the butt for him every time his power goes out. Plus
the collars seem a bit big for small dogs. I have got an offer of one I
can have if I want though (I'd just need to buy the collars) so maybe it's
worth thinking about.

Gate adjacent to house: Yes, that's a possibility. I do actually need a
gate along one section which adjoins the house anyway for access with the
mower etc. but I was going to put it at the other end of that side (which
ends at an old well shed which will get used as an outdoor kennel). One
end or the other will still need a post, anyway!

Footer: Admittedly I've not looked yet. The wall in question is part of a
room which has no floor above or basement underneath, and I know that
further along it doesn't have anything, but who knows... I'll take a look
later. Worst case I suspect it's not that deep - just a few inches - and
I've got a SDS drill that I've used before to run 6" holes through a foot
of poured concrete.

cheers

Jules

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 08:50:55 -0700, mike wrote:
Measure your dog's head. I bet you could even get away with a 4 inch
space. In any event, you're right to want to leave some room for
maintenance.

Sounds good. I'm definitely less keen on chopping bits out of the siding,
anyway - although it might look neat enough, it'd be a headache if someone
ever wanted to take the whole fence down for whatever reason.

I'm used to living in brick buildings... :-)

cheers

Jules

On Aug 31, 1:21*pm, mike wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:09*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On Aug 31, 12:52*pm, mike wrote:

On Aug 31, 9:47*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 12:42*pm, mike wrote:

On Aug 31, 9:32*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Aug 31, 11:31*am, Jules

wrote:
Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

What do people typically do where fences meet (timber) buildings, though?
Leave a small (1 or 2") gap between post and siding, put the post right up
against the siding, or actually cut out the siding and set the post right
against the building's frame (and then seal around it as needed)?

I'm mainly thinking about access issues for replacing siding in a decade
or two (and/or routine painting) - an inch or two gap would still keep
dogs in and should give enough space to replace the siding 'behind' the
post if needed, but maybe there's a another way I haven't thought of (or a
standard way)?

cheers

Jules

If you leave a gap between the post and the house, how will you dig
the post hole?

My guess is that if you try to dig a post hole right next to the
building, you're going to hit a footer or something that might prevent
you from installing the post correctly.

In fact, they mention that here adn offer alternatives:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/fence.htm

BTW Have you considering Invisible Fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even if he has an underground obstruction near the house, he could
overhang the 2 x 4 railings to form a small cantilevered fence
section. *It just requires longer 2 x 4's, attaching the flat face of
the rails to the front of the post.

Another option is to install a gate with the latch right on the house.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What did you read that implied 2 x 4 rails would be used?

What did you read that implied it's even a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. *What did you read that implied that
he was opposed to a wooden fence?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I saw no opposition to a wooden fence at all. What did you read in my
post that implied I saw an implied opposition in the OP?

Your post was very specific as to the installation of 2 x 4 rails,
including the orientation of the face.

I was simply asking why you thought 2 x 4's (or even wood) were
involved when the OP asked only about the installation of the post.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's called giving him options. *How many times do I have to say it?
Why do you think that wood is not going to be involved? * Wood fences
happen to make it very easy to cantilever a fence beyond the post if
needed.

What's your problem? *Why don't you let Jules say what is and is not
acceptable? *Is your name Jules?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What's your problem?

Wow! I probably should leave you alone. You are way too touchy this
afternoon.

Then again, this is way too much fun!

First you thought I saw something that made me think the OP was
opposed to wooden fences...don't know where you got that from.

Then you asked me why I think wood isn't going to be involved...don't
know where you got that from either.

Then you imply that I think that wooden fences are not
acceptable...don't know where you got that from either.

The only question I ever raised was why you specifically mentioned 2 x
4's instead of just "rails" or something like that.

Rails can certainly be something other than 2 x 4's and a cantilevered
fence could be metal, vinyl or a host of other materials - including
wood.

You keep talking about options, yet you also keep talking about wood
like it's the only option.

I guess my problem is not knowing why you don't get that I'm not
talking about the fence, I'm talking about your original post about
how to mount the 2 x4's.

On Aug 31, 10:39*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

I guess my problem is not knowing why you don't get that I'm not
talking about the fence, I'm talking about your original post about
how to mount the 2 x4's.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you're not talking about the fence, you're in the wrong thread.

I don't get why you're making a stink about my specifics. If I'm not
specific, I get people saying "they don't get it", or "how do you
make a cantilevered fence with rail brackets?"

Instead, I'm specific, and unbelievably, I get the third degree. And
this from a guy who posts a link with PLENTY of specifics and about
wood fences, no less! There's a word for people like you who think
it's "fun" to be a jerk on the net.

Jules wrote:

I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails -
but putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as possible
(that way I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to dig it into
the ground, but I can always bury cheap chicken wire right at the
bottom later if the dogs work out how to dig underneath).

Put a post a foot or so from the house, and instead of having the rail
terminate at the post (like the other rails), allow it to extend past the
rail to a small distance (maybe a 1/2") from the house. Fasten the pickets
onto the rails as normal.

Jon

On Aug 31, 1:59*pm, "Jon Danniken"
wrote:
Jules wrote:

I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails -
but putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as possible
(that way I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to dig it into
the ground, but I can always bury cheap chicken wire right at the
bottom later if the dogs work out how to dig underneath).

Put a post a foot or so from the house, and instead of having the rail
terminate at the post (like the other rails), allow it to extend past the
rail to a small distance (maybe a 1/2") from the house. *Fasten the pickets
onto the rails as normal.

Jon

Nice post Jon...

On Aug 31, 1:58*pm, mike wrote:
On Aug 31, 10:39*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...



I guess my problem is not knowing why you don't get that I'm not
talking about the fence, I'm talking about your original post about
how to mount the 2 x4's.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you're not talking about the fence, you're in the wrong thread.

I don't get why you're making a stink about my specifics. *If I'm not
specific, I get *people saying "they don't get it", or "how do you
make a cantilevered fence with rail brackets?"

Instead, I'm specific, and unbelievably, I get the third degree. *And
this from a guy who posts a link with PLENTY of specifics and about
wood fences, no less! * There's a word for people like you who think
it's "fun" to be a jerk on the net.

My link had *options* on how to deal with *posts* near a structure.

"Jules" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:31:41 -0500, Jules wrote:


Hi all,

I'm going to be putting up a 4' tall dog fence behind our house (we just
have small dogs). Easy enough, except...

OK, thanks for the replies so far - some answers to other things
mentioned:

Yep, wooden fence with galvanised vinyl-coated 3x2" mesh over the top
(expensive stuff, but I was given a roll a while ago which'll do 2/3 of
the job, so silly not to use it as it seems like it'll last a long time).

I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails - but
putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as possible (that way
I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to dig it into the ground, but
I can always bury cheap chicken wire right at the bottom later if the dogs
work out how to dig underneath).

Electric pet fences - I'm not too sure about these. The neighbor has one,
and it's a pain in the butt for him every time his power goes out. Plus
the collars seem a bit big for small dogs. I have got an offer of one I
can have if I want though (I'd just need to buy the collars) so maybe it's
worth thinking about.

Gate adjacent to house: Yes, that's a possibility. I do actually need a
gate along one section which adjoins the house anyway for access with the
mower etc. but I was going to put it at the other end of that side (which
ends at an old well shed which will get used as an outdoor kennel). One
end or the other will still need a post, anyway!

Footer: Admittedly I've not looked yet. The wall in question is part of a
room which has no floor above or basement underneath, and I know that
further along it doesn't have anything, but who knows... I'll take a look
later. Worst case I suspect it's not that deep - just a few inches - and
I've got a SDS drill that I've used before to run 6" holes through a foot
of poured concrete.

cheers

Jules
If this is a wood fence, do not place it in contact with the house. A pest
(termite) inspector would call that earth wood contact and call for
remediation to bring it in to conformance for pest clearance.
Elgy

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Aug 31, 1:59 pm, "Jon Danniken" wrote:
Jules wrote:

I'm thinking 4x4" posts and pressure-treated 2x4s, with three rails
- but putting the bottom-most rail as close to the ground as
possible (that way I can fasten the mesh to it without needing to
dig it into the ground, but I can always bury cheap chicken wire
right at the bottom later if the dogs work out how to dig
underneath).

Put a post a foot or so from the house, and instead of having the
rail terminate at the post (like the other rails), allow it to
extend past the rail to a small distance (maybe a 1/2") from the
house. Fasten the pickets onto the rails as normal.

Jon

Nice post Jon...

Well thank you for that, I try!

Jon

On Mon, 31 Aug 2009 12:29:49 -0500, Jules wrote:
Footer: Admittedly I've not looked yet. The wall in question is part of a
room which has no floor above or basement underneath, and I know that
further along it doesn't have anything, but who knows... I'll take a look
later.

Just to report back on that, no footer. I'm liking the idea of setting
the 'end' posts a few inches away from the siding, even so...