I've got a four year old John Deere L110 lawn tractor with the original
battery still in it. It's been on a battery tender ever since it was new.

The problem I've got dates back to when I first got the lawn tractor at
Home Depot: the starter seems to have a "sweet spot". If I'm in the
sweet spot, the starter cranks rapidly and I get ignition. If I'm not
in the sweet spot, I just get a grunt from the tractor. Repeatedly
bumping the starter eventually puts me back in the sweet spot and
suddenly the starter will start spinning rapidly again so the engine
will start.

Here lately it's gotten worst. The other day I repeatedly had to bump
the ignition a number of times before the starter suddenly started
cranking energetically.

I recognize I've gotten more life out of the battery than I have a right
to expect. OTOH, it will spin the hell out of the starter if it happens
to be in the sweet spot.

My other candidates are the Bendix or the starter itself. I'm not sure
what needs to be replaced and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem. Anybody have any insight?




Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

Mortimer Schnerd wrote:
....
I'd start by checking all terminal ends of all the cables for
corrosion/loose connections. Include to the starter relay and at the
starter as well as just the battery connections.

--

Mortimer Schnerd wrote:
I've got a four year old John Deere L110 lawn tractor with the original
battery still in it. It's been on a battery tender ever since it was new.

The problem I've got dates back to when I first got the lawn tractor at
Home Depot: the starter seems to have a "sweet spot". If I'm in the
sweet spot, the starter cranks rapidly and I get ignition. If I'm not
in the sweet spot, I just get a grunt from the tractor. Repeatedly
bumping the starter eventually puts me back in the sweet spot and
suddenly the starter will start spinning rapidly again so the engine
will start.

Here lately it's gotten worst. The other day I repeatedly had to bump
the ignition a number of times before the starter suddenly started
cranking energetically.

I recognize I've gotten more life out of the battery than I have a right
to expect. OTOH, it will spin the hell out of the starter if it happens
to be in the sweet spot.

My other candidates are the Bendix or the starter itself. I'm not sure
what needs to be replaced and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem. Anybody have any insight?




Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com
Hi,
Solenoid ccontacts pitted or some thing is loose.

On Aug 12, 11:52*pm, Mortimer Schnerd
wrote:
I've got a four year old John Deere L110 lawn tractor with the original
battery still in it. *It's been on a battery tender ever since it was new.

The problem I've got dates back to when I first got the lawn tractor at
Home Depot: *the starter seems to have a "sweet spot". *If I'm in the
sweet spot, the starter cranks rapidly and I get ignition. *If I'm not
in the sweet spot, I just get a grunt from the tractor. *Repeatedly
bumping the starter eventually puts me back in the sweet spot and
suddenly the starter will start spinning rapidly again so the engine
will start.

Here lately it's gotten worst. *The other day I repeatedly had to bump
the ignition a number of times before the starter suddenly started
cranking energetically.

I recognize I've gotten more life out of the battery than I have a right
to expect. *OTOH, it will spin the hell out of the starter if it happens
to be in the sweet spot.

My other candidates are the Bendix or the starter itself. *I'm not sure
what needs to be replaced and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem. *Anybody have any insight?

Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

That seems to describe the way my 13 year old Simplicity garden
tractor behaves. I turn the key and it just hums, sometimes for a good
10 or 15 seconds, until it starts cranking.

David

dpb wrote:
Mortimer Schnerd wrote:
...
I'd start by checking all terminal ends of all the cables for
corrosion/loose connections. Include to the starter relay and at the
starter as well as just the battery connections.

--

The manual agrees.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/O...dex.html?tM=HO
http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/O...4.html#1210873

--Winston

On Aug 12, 10:52*pm, Mortimer Schnerd
wrote:
I've got a four year old John Deere L110 lawn tractor with the original
battery still in it. *It's been on a battery tender ever since it was new.

The problem I've got dates back to when I first got the lawn tractor at
Home Depot: *the starter seems to have a "sweet spot". *If I'm in the
sweet spot, the starter cranks rapidly and I get ignition. *If I'm not
in the sweet spot, I just get a grunt from the tractor. *Repeatedly
bumping the starter eventually puts me back in the sweet spot and
suddenly the starter will start spinning rapidly again so the engine
will start.

Here lately it's gotten worst. *The other day I repeatedly had to bump
the ignition a number of times before the starter suddenly started
cranking energetically.

I recognize I've gotten more life out of the battery than I have a right
to expect. *OTOH, it will spin the hell out of the starter if it happens
to be in the sweet spot.

My other candidates are the Bendix or the starter itself. *I'm not sure
what needs to be replaced and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem. *Anybody have any insight?

Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

Is it a Kawasaki engine? If so, they tend to go click but no start as
they get older, but several tries will finally get a crank and start.
I fixed mine by putting an automotive relay between the starter and
the battery using the existing trigger wire to trip that , and
connecting the starter trigger wire to the hot post. I can't explain
exactly why that works, but it does

On Aug 12, 9:52*pm, Mortimer Schnerd
wrote:
I've got a four year old John Deere L110 lawn tractor with the original
battery still in it. *It's been on a battery tender ever since it was new.

The problem I've got dates back to when I first got the lawn tractor at
Home Depot: *the starter seems to have a "sweet spot". *If I'm in the
sweet spot, the starter cranks rapidly and I get ignition. *If I'm not
in the sweet spot, I just get a grunt from the tractor. *Repeatedly
bumping the starter eventually puts me back in the sweet spot and
suddenly the starter will start spinning rapidly again so the engine
will start.

Here lately it's gotten worst. *The other day I repeatedly had to bump
the ignition a number of times before the starter suddenly started
cranking energetically.

I recognize I've gotten more life out of the battery than I have a right
to expect. *OTOH, it will spin the hell out of the starter if it happens
to be in the sweet spot.

My other candidates are the Bendix or the starter itself. *I'm not sure
what needs to be replaced and I'm not a fan of throwing parts at a
problem. *Anybody have any insight?

Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

IIRC the L110 would have a Kohler "one lunger". That engine can have
an automatic compression release. What you may be experiencing is that
the engine comes to rest at a position just before compression.

When you hit the starter and get a click it may just be that the
compression
is not being released at that engine position. Single cylinder engines
can be
a little odd to start.

You need to check the battery cables and put a DVM on the battery at
rest.
If you read less than (approx) 12.7 volts then it is battery time.
Four years is
about right for the OEM batteries in entry level L&G tractors....
battery tender
or not.

Autozone has a nice replacement battery around $40 that has 425CA and
350CCA.
A considerable upgrade from the battery you have now.

justalurker . wrote:

IIRC the L110 would have a Kohler "one lunger". That engine can have
an automatic compression release. What you may be experiencing is that
the engine comes to rest at a position just before compression.

When you hit the starter and get a click it may just be that the
compression is not being released at that engine position. Single
cylinder engines can be a little odd to start.


I do have a Kohler engine and that is entirely possible. However, I
went out this morning and cleaned off some crud from the battery
terminals, then checked the snugness of the connections between battery
and starter. Just doing that seemed to correct my problem as the three
times I attempted to start the engine: it engaged vigorously each time.
A very different experience from a couple of days ago.

I have been able to find a 300 page tech manual for the lawn tractor
online and downloaded it. I just may let my employer print it out for
me. G


You need to check the battery cables and put a DVM on the battery at
rest. If you read less than (approx) 12.7 volts then it is battery
time. Four years is about right for the OEM batteries in entry level
L&G tractors.... battery tender or not.

Autozone has a nice replacement battery around $40 that has 425CA and
350CCA. A considerable upgrade from the battery you have now.


I didn't bother to check the voltage since the problem seems to be
solved, at least for right now. I fully expect this battery to take a
full dump at some point since it's getting on up there in age. I saw
suitable replacements at Home Depot but I think they were only around
290CCA. The Autozone battery you've recommended sounds considerably
stouter and for similar money. I appreciate the lead.




Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

On Aug 13, 4:14*pm, Mortimer Schnerd
wrote:
justalurker . wrote:

IIRC the L110 would have a Kohler "one lunger". That engine can have
an automatic compression release. What you may be experiencing is that
the engine comes to rest at a position just before compression.

* When you hit the starter and get a click it may just be that the
* compression is not being released at that engine position. Single
* cylinder engines can be a little odd to start.

I do have a Kohler engine and that is entirely possible. *However, I
went out this morning and cleaned off some crud from the battery
terminals, then checked the snugness of the connections between battery
and starter. *Just doing that seemed to correct my problem as the three
times I attempted to start the engine: it engaged vigorously each time.
* A very different experience from a couple of days ago.

I have been able to find a 300 page tech manual for the lawn tractor
online and downloaded it. *I just may let my employer print it out for
me. *G

* You need to check the battery cables and put a DVM on the battery at
* rest. If you read less than (approx) 12.7 volts then it is battery
* time. Four years is about right for the OEM batteries in entry level
* L&G tractors.... battery tender or not.
*
* Autozone has a nice replacement battery around $40 that has 425CA and
* 350CCA. A considerable upgrade from the battery you have now.

I didn't bother to check the voltage since the problem seems to be
solved, at least for right now. *I fully expect this battery to take a
full dump at some point since it's getting on up there in age. *I saw
suitable replacements at Home Depot but I think they were only around
290CCA. *The Autozone battery you've recommended sounds considerably
stouter and for similar money. *I appreciate the lead.

Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

Always check positive and negative battery cable connections at both
ends for tightness and cleanliness at the first sign of any electrical
trouble.

Things are a lot harder on your starter towards the end of battery
life. As the current capability of the battery diminishes abuse of the
starter increases. Your battery is nearing it end of life and you're
going to buy a battery soon... want to buy a starter too?

Buy 2x4s at HD but buy your battery at Autozone and ask (demand) that
they do a load test on it before you buy. That will eliminate a Monday
or Friday morning battery and their infant mortality.

Mortimer Schnerd wrote:
....
went out this morning and cleaned off some crud from the battery
terminals, then checked the snugness of the connections between battery
and starter. Just doing that seemed to correct my problem as the three
times I attempted to start the engine: it engaged vigorously each time.
A very different experience from a couple of days ago.
....

What did I suggest in very first response????

Remove each cable at each end and clean both cable ends and mounting
locations thoroughly. At battery ends particularly one of the foaming
battery cleaners/neutralizers would be good followed by the thorough
rinse they recommend and then a terminal protectant.

Also make sure to trace the negative battery cable to the ground mount
location and do your duty there as well.

--

dpb wrote:

What did I suggest in very first response????

Remove each cable at each end and clean both cable ends and mounting
locations thoroughly. At battery ends particularly one of the foaming
battery cleaners/neutralizers would be good followed by the thorough
rinse they recommend and then a terminal protectant.

Also make sure to trace the negative battery cable to the ground mount
location and do your duty there as well.



It's true; you said it and I did it. I want to thank everybody who
contributed to helping me out by offering advice.

And I suspect I will be shopping for a battery tomorrow to avoid buying
a starter later. It's not like I didn't get my money's worth out of
this one. Even the batteries in my cars are usually ready to fail after
four years. Lawn tractor batteries aren't usually known for their
longevity so I must have gotten a good one by accident. That and
religious use of a battery tender.




Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

justalurker . wrote:

Buy 2x4s at HD but buy your battery at Autozone and ask (demand) that
they do a load test on it before you buy. That will eliminate a Monday
or Friday morning battery and their infant mortality.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...questid=270062

Good advice. I found the battery you referred to. $34.99! A much
better deal than anything offered at Home Cheapo. I'll go get one in
the morning.



Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com