-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,





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On Aug 3, 11:47*am, (golfere) wrote:
-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,



##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via *http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 367222 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

Have you considered plumbing around the tree? It might be less
aggravation in the long run.

On Aug 3, 12:47*pm, (golfere) wrote:
-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,



##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via *http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 367222 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

I dont understand about using the heat gun. Is this something you are
suppose to do with tat kind of pipe.

Jimmie

In article ,
(golfere) wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.


So stay the **** off the suck-wad advertising site. Maybe write them a
little note and tell them to stop spamming a.h.r.

On 03 Aug 2009 16:47:10 GMT,
(golfere) wrote:



-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,





I would recommend re-routing it. You are just going to have
more problems.

JIMMIE wrote:
On Aug 3, 12:47 pm, (golfere) wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,



-----------------
widsom of the old: in cases like this best to rip it all out and start
fresh. ---- replace a bigger section so that you aren't
working/fighting the roots...

#2 - put tape on the connectors so that the hose and hose clamps have
something sort of soft to 'bite into.

paul

golfere wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,





##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 367222 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##
Hi,
Heat gun? Use water or vaseline to push on the tubing.
Also while at it I'd reroute it to more accessible spot.
I had a leak under a concrete flower bed edge. I just
rerouted it using same method as you tried. Make sure you get
high quality clamp(no China made crap) and no heat gun please.

golfere wrote:
-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the
leak, but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired
joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a
heat gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I
install the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I
tighten one clamp, the other starts to leak so I go back an forth
hoping to tighten just enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is
killing my back working 18" under the tree roots.


Is this on a section that only supplies one "zone"? IF so, as long as it doesn't
get worse, who cares about 3 drops/ minute.

It might help more if we knew what kind of "tubing" and "connectors" you are
talking about.

What on earth did you do with a heat gun? If this is PVC, it could be seriously
degraded and misshaped by heat.

PVC is usually attached with glue, not clamps.

Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article ,
(golfere) wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.


So stay the **** off the suck-wad advertising site. Maybe write them a
little note and tell them to stop spamming a.h.r.


Boy, I'd say Smitty really has an opinion of The Sucko Company :-)

(golfere) wrote in
:



-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the
leak, but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired
joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a
heat gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I
install the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I
tighten one clamp, the other starts to leak so I go back an forth
hoping to tighten just enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is
killing my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,




Dear Suckocompany.com user:

Working around the roots is OK. Just show a little patience and
intelligence like this fine fellow.

http://tinyurl.com/npynne

In article ,
Red Green wrote:

Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article ,
(golfere) wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.


So stay the **** off the suck-wad advertising site. Maybe write them a
little note and tell them to stop spamming a.h.r.


Boy, I'd say Smitty really has an opinion of The Sucko Company :-)

Dammit. My poker face didn't fool you, huh?

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article ,
Red Green wrote:

Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article ,
(golfere) wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the
leak, but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the
repaired joints.


So stay the **** off the suck-wad advertising site. Maybe write
them a little note and tell them to stop spamming a.h.r.


Boy, I'd say Smitty really has an opinion of The Sucko Company :-)

Dammit. My poker face didn't fool you, huh?

Nope, takes lots of experience. Here's a goal for you:

http://yourpokermoney.com/images/WCFieldsbrown.jpg

"golfere" wrote in message
...


-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,





##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 367222 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##


I too, had an old system with that I repaired with connectors and clamps.
The old pipe (not polyethylene) loses its flexibility and I too needed a
heat gun to facilitate inserting the connectors. I also filed down the
ridges on the connectors to facilitate the job. I would consider a leak of
3 drops per minute a successful repair. The water loss will not be
significant and no damage will result from such a leak from a buried pipe.

SJF

But !!! it shouldn't leek. But But the pine will be happy !!!!
Jerry


http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutc...oodWorkingPage



http://community.webtv.net/awoodbutcher/1974RuppCentair

(golfere) wrote:

I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

(my suggestion)

Assuming your not working with threaded pipe (tho it would work just
as well).

Automotive gasket sealant, between the tubing and connectors, (type of
sealant in a can with a brush inside of the lid),
Then tighten the clamps. This works well, and a trick I've always used
to stop a leak between two materials, (mostly metal and tubing); it
would work on PVC just as well.

It doesn't have to go on the connector, just coating the inside of the
water free tubing, then connecting it would work just as well.


--

Two legged cat.
http://incredimazing.com/page/2_Legg..._Heart_of_Gold
with a heart of gold, I'm sure it didn't get far.

On Aug 3, 2:00*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
golfere wrote:

-------------------------------------
I had a leak 18" under a pine tree roots. I found and repaired the leak,
but now I can not stop a dripping leak in one of the repaired joints.

I am using 3/4 tubeing and 3/4 connecters and hose clamps. I used a heat
gun to get the connectors into the tubing and all is OK until I install
the hose clamps and theen the dipping leak starts. If I tighten one clamp,
the other starts to leak so I go back an forth hoping to tighten just
enough to stop the leak.
At this point, the leak is 3 drips per minute.

Should I use plumber's tape around the connectors? Help, this is killing
my back working 18" under the tree roots.

Thanks,



##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via *http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.home.repair - 367222 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

Hi,
Heat gun? Use water or vaseline to push on the tubing.
Also while at it I'd reroute it to more accessible spot.
I had a leak under a concrete flower bed edge. I just
rerouted it using same method as you tried. Make sure you get
high quality clamp(no China made crap) and no heat gun please.

Using a heat gun or torch is a widely used technique with poly
irrigation pipe. I've done it many times over the years and seen pros
do it too. All you're doing is warming up the plastic enough so that
it becomes more flexible and will easily slip over the barb fittings.
Never had a problem with it causing a leak.

If the leak amounts to 3 drips a minute and is in a line going to a
zone, as opposed to being a supply line that is always pressurized,
the easiest option is forget about it. If you're watering for an hour
on a zone with four 1.0 GPM heads, you're putting down 240 gallons of
water and maybe a cup of water is coming out of the leak.
Insignificant.