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#1
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My Black and Decker electric lawnmower leaves a lot of uncut spots, or
more precisely narrow strips and little round areas. 12 amps. Model 525, the model which preceded the current model 575. The blade is pretty sharp already, but I am sure I should sharpen it myself, and I will. I walk pretty slowly. Slower than I would if this weren't happeneing, but it still happens. But I wonder if you all know any other reason this would happen? This is a used mower, but in very good condition. It cuts well, and mulches well. I have it on mulch. When I was looking at sites that sold it, one person complained that it left parts uncut. I presume he had started with a new mower, but maybe not. He said it was easy enough to get them later with a weedwacker, but there are really a lot of them and I don't think it is easy. It would be easier to mow over each section twice. Probably a mulching blade. I don't know how to tell by looking but I can describe it if necesary. And it does mulch. It's not that I miss the area. The uncut area is often right in front of and right behind areas that are nicely cut, both "in front of" and "behind" based on the direction I am pushing the mower. Thanks a lot. |
#2
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On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 01:03:11 -0400, mm
wrote: My Black and Decker electric lawnmower leaves a lot of uncut spots, or more precisely narrow strips and little round areas. 12 amps. Model 525, the model which preceded the current model 575. I would have to guess that the strips are due to having a deck that is wider than the cut area. You may need to overlap your cutting a little more. The other spots I suspect are due to less "lift" of the blade, so under certain conditions the grass may be lying flat below the blade. Gasoline mowers then to have more lift built into their design to provide a more even cut. Electrics tend to have less in an effort to get more mowing with less power consumption. |
#3
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I have a similar B&D electric. I find that I need 25% to 33% overlap
to do a good job. 50% if the grass is rather wet. Also, mowing a little "long" seems to behave better -- less "tearing," so to speak. As to sharpening, I do it once a season. Just use a file, clamp the blade in your bench vise, and "draw file" ALONG the blade, maintaining the contour of the bevel. A fairly course "mill *******" file works well. A little grease on the threads on the shaft help to keep it from getting corroded. Here in "Slower Lower" Delaware, it is quite flat. I have about 8,000 square feet, and can cut it in 1 1/2 hours, not pushing things too hard. Another 1/2 hour for trim, etc. I am quite pleased with the B&D electric mower. Got it refurbished for $99. Can't beat that. BTW, also lube the bearing for the wheels now and then. Heavy oil (SAE 80 gear oil) works well for me. |
#4
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#5
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On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:22:53 -0400, mm
wrote: I would have to guess that the strips are due to having a deck that is wider than the cut area. You may need to overlap your cutting Well, maybe. There were so many uncut areas, I probably didn't check that. Are the wheel heights adjusted equally on all sides? |
#6
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On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:37:41 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:22:53 -0400, mm wrote: I would have to guess that the strips are due to having a deck that is wider than the cut area. You may need to overlap your cutting Well, maybe. There were so many uncut areas, I probably didn't check that. Are the wheel heights adjusted equally on all sides? Yes. I usually don't pay attention to wheels but since it was the first time, I set them one notch from the highest. But even if they weren't, I don't think that would account for these islands of uncut grass. Grass that is standing up straight. They get cut the second time I go over the same spot. |
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