I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. I cannot use screws
(visual reasons). What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

In article ,
Michael Dobony wrote:

I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. I cannot use screws
(visual reasons). What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

"Plexiglas" is a trade name for acrylic. I've glued a fair amount of
acrylic and I've been happy with Weld-On #16 - "clear, thickened cement
for acrylic sheet."

On Jul 5, 2:20*pm, Michael Dobony wrote:
I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. *I cannot use screws
(visual reasons). *What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

I believe acetone by itself will work. It is a solvent for the
polymer but you must work fast as it evaporates.

skottc had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...ss-382452-.htm
:

Michael Dobony wrote:


I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. I cannot use
screws
(visual reasons). What adhesive would you recommend for a
long-lasting,
solid fix?

Weld-on makes good products for plexiglass. Here's some manuals:

Acrylic Fabrication
manuals

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skottc



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skottc had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...ss-382483-.htm
:

opp, try:

http://www.ocip.com/promo/fabrication_guide.htm

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skottc



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skottc



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Frank wrote:
On Jul 5, 2:20 pm, Michael Dobony wrote:
I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. I cannot use screws
(visual reasons). What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

I believe acetone by itself will work. It is a solvent for the
polymer but you must work fast as it evaporates.

The glued joint won't be very pretty either, and will be a weak point.
They don't vanish at all. Even pro-made items avoid 'T' joints in favor
of artful folded panels, or decorative metal pegs set through holes
drilled in the side piece. I've even seen shelf pegs cast out of clear
resin, for what you are trying to do. Any way you can make a upside down
U shape for the center shelf?

It'd help if we knew what you were making, and the dimensions. If it is
small, and you can use thick stock for the sides, you could cut a groove
to hold the shelf. With a lot of polishing of the cut ends and the
slot, that would almost vanish.

--
aem sends...

On Jul 5, 1:20*pm, Michael Dobony wrote:
I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. *I cannot use screws
(visual reasons). *What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

Weld On cements are based on methylene chloride. Professional
fabricators, building sign installers and tinkerers have used it for
years. The bond is about as strong as the acrylic, and in sign work,
transparent acrylic legs are cemented to the vacuum formed colored
letters for attachment to the building by mechanical means.. The only
trick involved is getting the mating surfaces fairly close by sanding
smooth or milling. For small projects application of the pure solvent
cement (unbodied) is easily done with hypodermic needles. Bodied Weld
On is used for imperfectly fitting pieces. Your plastics supplier will
have the cement and instructions for using it.
A typical 8" x 24" x 1/4" shelf precisely dimensioned will support a
considerable weight when cemented in this way. Large furniture pieces
used to be common that were invisibly cemented. Try some test pieces
to be sure of your technique. Always works for me.

Joe.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
Michael Dobony wrote:

I need to glue a plesiglass shelf to plexiglass sides. I cannot use
screws
(visual reasons). What adhesive would you recommend for a long-lasting,
solid fix?

"Plexiglas" is a trade name for acrylic. I've glued a fair amount of
acrylic and I've been happy with Weld-On #16 - "clear, thickened cement
for acrylic sheet."

I prefer Weld On #4 for most purposes, and Weld On #3 if appearance is not
as important. It is applied with a squeeze bottle that has a hypodermic
needle with no sharpened point. With #3 or #4 the the joints must be very
accurate with no gaps and the solvent will flow into the joints. If you
have gaps, then #16 is about the only choice.