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#1
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dual 3-way dimmers
I helped a friend with his 3-way switches today. He has two 3-way
dimmers that used to work to dim one light. He removed the one light and added six recessed lights, but all should work the same. Unfortunately now neither of the dimmers work, and each light switch only functions if the other is in the opposite position (e.g., switch1 only functions if switch2 is down, and switch2 only works if switch1 is up). I followed the following diagram at: http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/in...ch-option4.htm and it is wired accordingly. The only difference is that it is an old house and there are no ground wires. The switches also aren't labeled with "common", but it seems obvious that the odd-colored screw is the common...and besides, it worked before and the only wiring we redid was at the light (where the power enters as well). Any clues? |
#2
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dual 3-way dimmers
"Proom" wrote in message ... I helped a friend with his 3-way switches today. He has two 3-way dimmers that used to work to dim one light. He removed the one light and added six recessed lights, but all should work the same. Unfortunately now neither of the dimmers work, and each light switch only functions if the other is in the opposite position (e.g., switch1 only functions if switch2 is down, and switch2 only works if switch1 is up). I followed the following diagram at: http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/in...ch-option4.htm and it is wired accordingly. The only difference is that it is an old house and there are no ground wires. The switches also aren't labeled with "common", but it seems obvious that the odd-colored screw is the common...and besides, it worked before and the only wiring we redid was at the light (where the power enters as well). Any clues? First off, you don't install two - 3 way dimmers on the same system, unless it's a master slave type, which aren't connected like a three way switch. If you have your switch travelers in one of the lighting boxes, as the diagram shows, you transposed a common and a traveler. |
#3
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dual 3-way dimmers
On Jul 3, 6:06*pm, "RBM" wrote:
"Proom" wrote in message ... I helped a friend with his 3-way switches today. *He has two 3-way dimmers that used to work to dim one light. *He removed the one light and added six recessed lights, but all should work the same. Unfortunately now neither of the dimmers work, and each light switch only functions if the other is in the opposite position (e.g., switch1 only functions if switch2 is down, and switch2 only works if switch1 is up). *I followed the following diagram at: http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/in...ree-way-switch... and it is wired accordingly. The only difference is that it is an old house and there are no ground wires. *The switches also aren't labeled with "common", but it seems obvious that the odd-colored screw is the common...and besides, it worked before and the only wiring we redid was at the light (where the power enters as well). *Any clues? First off, you don't install two - 3 way dimmers on the same system, unless it's a master slave type, which aren't *connected like a three way switch. If you have your switch travelers in one of the lighting boxes, as the diagram shows, you transposed a common and a traveler. KIll the power to the circuit, remove the dimmers. With the wires safely hanging out of their boxes, no shorts, turn the circuit back on at the breaker panel. Using some sort of test find the wire that has voltage on it. Turn the circuit off at the breaker panel and connect a swtch there the hot wire you located goes to the common the other two are the travelers. switch the breaker ON and check for voltage at the other switch position. The hot wire here will be a traveler, change the state of the switch you already installed and check the voltage a gain at the other switch location. The hot wire should be the other traveler and the remaining wire will be the common. Install the switch accordingly. Yes the silver screw is the common, I still always check using my ohmmeter to make sure. Make sure the dimmer will handle the total wattage of the lamps. Some dimmers must work with a switch on the other side. The ones in my house are like that. Once you get things working with the switches again install a dimmer. Let a couple of people review my instructions, sometimes I dont alway write what Im thinking. Jimmie Jimmie |
#4
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dual 3-way dimmers
On Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:00:54 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote: On Jul 3, 6:06*pm, "RBM" wrote: "Proom" wrote in message ... I helped a friend with his 3-way switches today. *He has two 3-way dimmers that used to work to dim one light. *He removed the one light and added six recessed lights, but all should work the same. Unfortunately now neither of the dimmers work, and each light switch only functions if the other is in the opposite position (e.g., switch1 only functions if switch2 is down, and switch2 only works if switch1 is up). *I followed the following diagram at: http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/in...ree-way-switch... and it is wired accordingly. The only difference is that it is an old house and there are no ground wires. *The switches also aren't labeled with "common", but it seems obvious that the odd-colored screw is the common...and besides, it worked before and the only wiring we redid was at the light (where the power enters as well). *Any clues? First off, you don't install two - 3 way dimmers on the same system, unless it's a master slave type, which aren't *connected like a three way switch. If you have your switch travelers in one of the lighting boxes, as the diagram shows, you transposed a common and a traveler. KIll the power to the circuit, remove the dimmers. With the wires safely hanging out of their boxes, no shorts, turn the circuit back on at the breaker panel. Using some sort of test find the wire that has If the dimmers were working before the light change and he never removed the switches, it would be pointless to remove them now. It has to be the taps crossed in the box. voltage on it. Turn the circuit off at the breaker panel and connect a swtch there the hot wire you located goes to the common the other two are the travelers. switch the breaker ON and check for voltage at the other switch position. The hot wire here will be a traveler, change the state of the switch you already installed and check the voltage a gain at the other switch location. The hot wire should be the other traveler and the remaining wire will be the common. Install the switch accordingly. Yes the silver screw is the common, I still always check using my ohmmeter to make sure. Make sure the dimmer will handle the total wattage of the lamps. Some dimmers must work with a switch on the other side. The ones in my house are like that. Once you get things working with the switches again install a dimmer. Let a couple of people review my instructions, sometimes I dont alway write what Im thinking. Jimmie Jimmie |
#5
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dual 3-way dimmers
On Jul 3, 7:30*pm, Metspitzer wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:00:54 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE wrote: On Jul 3, 6:06*pm, "RBM" wrote: "Proom" wrote in message .... I helped a friend with his 3-way switches today. *He has two 3-way dimmers that used to work to dim one light. *He removed the one light and added six recessed lights, but all should work the same. Unfortunately now neither of the dimmers work, and each light switch only functions if the other is in the opposite position (e.g., switch1 only functions if switch2 is down, and switch2 only works if switch1 is up). *I followed the following diagram at: http://www.homeimprovementweb.com/in...ree-way-switch.... and it is wired accordingly. The only difference is that it is an old house and there are no ground wires. *The switches also aren't labeled with "common", but it seems obvious that the odd-colored screw is the common...and besides, it worked before and the only wiring we redid was at the light (where the power enters as well). *Any clues? First off, you don't install two - 3 way dimmers on the same system, unless it's a master slave type, which aren't *connected like a three way switch. If you have your switch travelers in one of the lighting boxes, as the diagram shows, you transposed a common and a traveler. KIll the power to the circuit, remove the dimmers. With the wires safely hanging out of their boxes, no shorts, turn the circuit back on at the breaker panel. Using some sort of test find the wire that has If the dimmers were working before the light change and he never removed the switches, it would be pointless to remove them now. It has to be the taps crossed in the box. voltage on it. Turn the circuit off at the breaker panel and connect a swtch there the hot wire you located goes to the common the other two are the travelers. switch the breaker *ON and check for voltage at the other switch position. The hot wire here will be a traveler, change the state of the switch you already installed and check the voltage a gain at the other switch location. The hot wire should be the other traveler and the remaining wire will be the common. Install the switch accordingly. Yes the silver screw is the common, I still always check using my ohmmeter to make sure. Make sure the dimmer will handle the total wattage of the lamps. Some dimmers must work with a switch on the other side. The ones in my house are like that. Once you get things working with the switches again install a dimmer. Let a couple of people review my instructions, sometimes I dont alway write what Im thinking. Jimmie Jimmie- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah he probably got the wiring wrong and tied the supply into the travelers . Jimmie |
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