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#1
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I had a problem with my AC units. I thought it was the freon which
was too low. The AC guy came out and said that he first recommended cleaning the outside AC units, at $80/unit. His partner says that my units look clean. He says that they should be cleaned every year. So he takes off the top casing, washes it with a lawn hose, sprays on an A/C cleaner (sodium hydroxide based), and washes it off. $300 later, he says that the freon needs to be added too. Ok, another $150 later the problem is solved. I got the feeling I was hood winked and robbed. Two questions. Is washing and cleaning the units standard practice? Is it even necessary to do it once a year? On my old house, I haven't cleaned them in 3 years and never noticed a higher than average bill for not doing so. How much efficiency is lost by not cleaning the units? The repair guy quoted 50%, but I made a smart ass remark like 5%/yr. |
#2
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I had a problem with my AC units. I thought it was the
freon which was too low. CY: yeah, everyone says that. The AC guy came out and said that he first recommended cleaning the outside AC units, at $80/unit. His partner says that my units look clean. He says that they should be cleaned every year. So he takes off the top casing, washes it with a lawn hose, sprays on an A/C cleaner (sodium hydroxide based), and washes it off. CY: Hope he left the cleaner on long enough to foam up. I've worked on plenty of units that "look clean" but aren't. You have to get the system running, and check some temperatures to find out if the coils need cleaning. $300 later, he says that the freon needs to be added too. Ok, another $150 later the problem is solved. CY: Hope he left the system running long enough to dry out, afterwards. The evaporative cooling can throw the numbers and pressures and temperatures around a bit. I got the feeling I was hood winked and robbed. CY: I can imagine that. Two questions. Is washing and cleaning the units standard practice? CY: Yes, it is. Is it even necessary to do it once a year? CY: Depends how much dirt and dust they pick up. I think that most cases, every 3 to 5 years is good. On my old house, I haven't cleaned them in 3 years and never noticed a higher than average bill for not doing so. CY: Well, if you take the energy bill from three dirty-coil years of use, they will be about the same. Clean the coils, and the energy bill should go down. How much efficiency is lost by not cleaning the units? CY: I've seen 100% loss of efficiency in units that were dirty, but looked clean. I worked on one that was simply not cooling the house at all. After cleaning, it worked great. The home owner was talking about replacement, but was willing to let me clean it and see if that helped. It did. The repair guy quoted 50%, but I made a smart ass remark like 5%/yr. CY: The repair guy was a lot too low. |
#3
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In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote: I had a problem with my AC units. I thought it was the freon which was too low. CY: yeah, everyone says that. Chris, finding a working newsreader and learning how to use it isn't difficult. Since you're a regular here, why not take the plunge? After you've gone cold turkey on top-posting, you could figure out how quoting is supposed to work. |
#4
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Deodiaus wrote:
I had a problem with my AC units. I thought it was the freon which was too low. The AC guy came out and said that he first recommended cleaning the outside AC units, at $80/unit. His partner says that my units look clean. He says that they should be cleaned every year. So he takes off the top casing, washes it with a lawn hose, sprays on an A/C cleaner (sodium hydroxide based), and washes it off. $300 later, he says that the freon needs to be added too. Ok, another $150 later the problem is solved. I got the feeling I was hood winked and robbed. Two questions. Is washing and cleaning the units standard practice? Is it even necessary to do it once a year? On my old house, I haven't cleaned them in 3 years and never noticed a higher than average bill for not doing so. How much efficiency is lost by not cleaning the units? The repair guy quoted 50%, but I made a smart ass remark like 5%/yr. We recommend cleaning the outdoor condensing unit once a year for a straight AC and twice a year for a heat pump. The evaporator coil, "the cold part inside" should be checked at the same time and cleaned if necessary. If you change your filters regularly, you should have no problems with the evaporator. I always tell customers to turn the AC off when you are cutting the grass because the dust and grass clippings will be sucked into the fins clogging them up. You should keep hedges and landscaping plants away from the outdoor unit. A lot of folks will pile mulch and bark around the AC unit and that's a bad idea too. I like to see a bed of pea gravel or rocks around them and the grass/weeds pulled from around the units. Air flow, air flow should be the AC mantra especially in this hot weather. TDD |
#5
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On Jun 28, 3:32*pm, The Daring Dufas
wrote: Deodiaus wrote: I had a problem with my AC units. *I thought it was the freon which was too low. The AC guy came out and said that he first recommended cleaning the outside AC units, at $80/unit. *His partner says that my units look clean. He says that they should be cleaned every year. So he takes off the top casing, washes it with a lawn hose, sprays on an A/C cleaner (sodium hydroxide based), and washes it off. *$300 later, he says that the freon needs to be added too. *Ok, another $150 later the problem is solved. *I got the feeling I was hood winked and robbed. Two questions. Is washing and cleaning the units standard practice? *Is it even necessary to do it once a year? *On my old house, I haven't cleaned them in 3 years and never noticed a higher than average bill for not doing so. How much efficiency is lost by not cleaning the units? *The repair guy quoted 50%, but I made a smart ass remark like 5%/yr. We recommend cleaning the outdoor condensing unit once a year for a straight AC and twice a year for a heat pump. The evaporator coil, "the cold part inside" should be checked at the same time and cleaned if necessary. If you change your filters regularly, you should have no problems with the evaporator. I always tell customers to turn the AC off when you are cutting the grass because the dust and grass clippings will be sucked into the fins clogging them up. You should keep hedges and landscaping plants away from the outdoor unit. A lot of folks will pile mulch and bark around the AC unit and that's a bad idea too. I like to see a bed of pea gravel or rocks around them and the grass/weeds pulled from around the units. Air flow, air flow should be the AC mantra especially in this hot weather. TDD- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Some increase in use of air heat pumps here; noticing that most of them are now mounted at least a foot above ground and often on some sort of hard pad, not surrounded by bushes, flowers and other junk that can shield them. Also in winter homeowners seem to make make sure snow does not pile up against them. Since a heat pump is just an AC in reverse and in fact can be used as AC in summer and is airflow device that makes a lot of sense. After all no one (one hopes) would block off the radiator of a motor- vehicle and then complain it wasn't cooling the engine properly! Here in our windy climate that blows dust, autumn leaves etc. around it would also makes sense to clean outside coils regularly. |
#6
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On Jun 28, 9:47*am, Deodiaus wrote:
I had a problem with my AC units. *I thought it was the freon which was too low. The AC guy came out and said that he first recommended cleaning the outside AC units, at $80/unit. *His partner says that my units look clean. He says that they should be cleaned every year. So he takes off the top casing, washes it with a lawn hose, sprays on an A/C cleaner (sodium hydroxide based), and washes it off. *$300 later, he says that the freon needs to be added too. *Ok, another $150 later the problem is solved. *I got the feeling I was hood winked and robbed. Two questions. Is washing and cleaning the units standard practice? *Is it even necey essary to do it once a year? *On my old house, I haven't cleaned them in 3 years and never noticed a higher than average bill for not doing so. How much efficiency is lost by not cleaning the units? *The repair guyar quoted 50%, but I made a smart ass remark like 5%/yr. I dont think you got hoodwinked. He was acting in your best interest ; yes, the condensor and evaporator DO contribute to efficiency if they are clean because maximum heat transfer takes place thereby increasing cooling capacity over dirty coils, decreasing amp draw due to the compressor not working as hard, making the units life expectancy theoretically longer, and making your space cool faster/better dehumidified. Now that you know how to clean the coils, you can do that yourself each year prior to startup so it functions at peak performance. |
#7
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Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair,alt.engineering.electrical
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BTW, I have a follow up question.
I am buying a AO Smith DL1056 1/2 HP Direct Drive Blower Motor motor, which needs a 10 mF capacitor (according to manufacturer's specs), but the AC guy put in a 7.5 mF cap. Any reasons why he would do that other than that's what he had available (because he had to make a special run to grainger anyway? |
#8
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On Thu, 2 Jul 2009 21:56:48 -0700 (PDT), Deodiaus
wrote: BTW, I have a follow up question. I am buying a AO Smith DL1056 1/2 HP Direct Drive Blower Motor motor, which needs a 10 mF capacitor (according to manufacturer's specs), but the AC guy put in a 7.5 mF cap. Any reasons why he would do that other than that's what he had available (because he had to make a special run to grainger anyway? It will likely work, but it is almost certain he got that because it was all that was available or because he thought it was the right animal for the job. |
#9
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Can't think of any.
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Deodiaus" wrote in message ... BTW, I have a follow up question. I am buying a AO Smith DL1056 1/2 HP Direct Drive Blower Motor motor, which needs a 10 mF capacitor (according to manufacturer's specs), but the AC guy put in a 7.5 mF cap. Any reasons why he would do that other than that's what he had available (because he had to make a special run to grainger anyway? |
#10
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The motor I had in there is
http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchan...ode=fasco-luxa which as you can see here also comes recommended with a 7.5 MFD cap, but the manufacturer suggests 10 MFD. God is Dead -Nietzsche |
#11
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Posted to alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair,alt.engineering.electrical
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![]() ? "Deodiaus" ?????? ??? ?????? ... The motor I had in there is http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchan...ode=fasco-luxa which as you can see here also comes recommended with a 7.5 MFD cap, but the manufacturer suggests 10 MFD. That's a much better capacitor than the crap plastic ones we have in EU;_) I have no idea why they recommend 10 uF, since the website has a link to a GE 7.5 uF, and the electrician put a 7.5 uF. Gott ist tod. (your signature in German). (Pronounced toont). -- Tzortzakakis Dimitris major in electrical engineering mechanized infantry reservist hordad AT otenet DOT gr |
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