I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:54:09 -0700, djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

encapsulate it in concrete

djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay


How heavy is it? And is it really a safe, or just a fireproof cabinet
with a combination lock? If it has casters, you can unbolt those and use
those holes to add a steel plate to the bottom, extending past the
sides, that you can bolt to the floor. The most secure safe is one
nobody knows about- hide it in a closet or piece of furniture, with what
looks like a solid panel in front of it, made out of thin plywood.
Magnetic catches are great for things like that- you whack the panel
with your hand to get it to pop off, or put a piece of metal on one spot
on the back of the panel, and use a felt-covered magnet as the handle to
pull the panel off without leaving tell-tale marks on it. And whatever
you do, resist the urge to show it off to friends and relatives. All
sorts of ways to add a secret compartment to a house, though not as easy
as the old days when houses had all sorts of built-in cabinetry.

--
aem sends...

On Apr 17, 10:54*pm, "djay" wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. *It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. *I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. *Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Did you just buy it, I just bought one at HD that came with brackets
to bolt it down from the inside, check out the safes web site, some
safes have an area made to be drilled through if you use the proper
gasket and bracket.

djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidden
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the safe's
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the safe
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint,
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head,
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes.
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin to
open but get really hot inside.

On Apr 18, 7:31*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. *It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. *I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. *Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidden
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the safe's
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the safe
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint,
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head,
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes..
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin to
open but get really hot inside.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So my new HD Sentry safe isnt safe? How unsafe is it against theft.

HeyBub wrote:
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with hidden
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the safe's
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the safe
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint,
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head,
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes.
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin to
open but get really hot inside.


But there are a whole class of data rated safes specifically designed to
be both a security safe and to protect the contents from heat damage.

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the
ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay
How heavy is it? And is it really a safe, or just a fireproof cabinet with
a combination lock? If it has casters, you can unbolt those and use those
holes to add a steel plate to the bottom, extending past the sides, that
you can bolt to the floor. The most secure safe is one nobody knows about-
hide it in a closet or piece of furniture, with what looks like a solid
panel in front of it, made out of thin plywood. Magnetic catches are great
for things like that- you whack the panel with your hand to get it to pop
off, or put a piece of metal on one spot on the back of the panel, and use
a felt-covered magnet as the handle to pull the panel off without leaving
tell-tale marks on it. And whatever you do, resist the urge to show it off
to friends and relatives. All sorts of ways to add a secret compartment to
a house, though not as easy as the old days when houses had all sorts of
built-in cabinetry.

--
aem sends...

It is right at 100 lbs. It's a fireproof safe meaning it has the actuator
arms that
go from the door into the wall of the safe after the lever is turned.
Right now it's in a walk-in closet and blends very well with the rest of the
crap the wife has in there (boxes of Shtuff).
No casters, just 4 ea 1.5" diameter plastic nubs (about 1/8 thick).

Djay

"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:54:09 -0700, djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

encapsulate it in concrete


That would certainly make it safer!

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Apr 17, 10:54 pm, "djay" wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Did you just buy it, I just bought one at HD that came with brackets
to bolt it down from the inside, check out the safes web site, some
safes have an area made to be drilled through if you use the proper
gasket and bracket.

This one didn't come with any mounting hardware... b 4
I drill into it, I'll call the manufacturer for any tips. I think
putting holes in it would definitely drop the fire rating?

Djay

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place, and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom
one had a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

So all of these slabs were under the safe? The conduit allowed the
thread-all
to pass to/through the next slab etc?


Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on
the safe's door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To
use the safe normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe.
If a squint, scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a
gun to your head, you don't flip the secret switch.


I like this idea - but sounds like I'd have to buy a silent alarm
service....

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Loaded pistol will be in the safe - along with the other documents that
need fire protection.


Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes.
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin
to open but get really hot inside.


I bought this one as a "dual use" to protect stuff inside from both heat and
naredowells.
Thanks for the insight.

Djay

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Apr 18, 7:31 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one
had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the
safe's
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the
safe
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint,
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your
head,
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes.
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin
to
open but get really hot inside.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So my new HD Sentry safe isnt safe? How unsafe is it against theft.


I watched a show called "it takes a thief" and this guy litterally ripped
out safes etc and took them with him to open later.

My goal is to make the "thievery" take as long as possible.

DJay

On Apr 18, 10:29*am, "djay" wrote:
"ransley" wrote in message

...
On Apr 18, 7:31 am, "HeyBub" wrote:





djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one
had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden
wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on the
safe's
door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location. To use the
safe
normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the safe. If a squint,
scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your
head,
you don't flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security safes.
Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a hatchet.
Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for a gremlin
to
open but get really hot inside.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So my new HD Sentry safe isnt safe? How unsafe is it against theft.

I watched a show called "it takes a thief" and this guy litterally ripped
out safes etc and took them with him to open later.

My goal is to make the "thievery" take as long as possible.

DJay- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

If you feel theft is real posible, let them have the safe and Hide
valuables, its all a game anyway. My sentry fire safe has provisions
to drill holes, it would seem to ruin the fire rating but Sentry
included them.

"djay" wrote in message
...

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place, and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The
bottom one had a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

So all of these slabs were under the safe? The conduit allowed the
thread-all
to pass to/through the next slab etc?


Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on
the safe's door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location.
To use the safe normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the
safe. If a squint, scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is
holding a gun to your head, you don't flip the secret switch.


I like this idea - but sounds like I'd have to buy a silent alarm
service....

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Loaded pistol will be in the safe - along with the other documents that
need fire protection.


Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security
safes. Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a
hatchet. Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for
a gremlin to open but get really hot inside.


I bought this one as a "dual use" to protect stuff inside from both heat
and
naredowells.
Thanks for the insight.

Djay


Why not just get a safety deposit box at your local bank??? Are they that
expensive to rent???

On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 08:21:11 -0700, djay wrote:

"AZ Nomad" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:54:09 -0700, djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

encapsulate it in concrete


That would certainly make it safer!

as long as the floor underneath withstands the weight. :-p

"benick" wrote in message
. ..

"djay" wrote in message
...

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes
for bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place, and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The
bottom one had a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

So all of these slabs were under the safe? The conduit allowed the
thread-all
to pass to/through the next slab etc?


Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have
to make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This switch on
the safe's door can be disabled by another switch in a secret location.
To use the safe normally, you flip the secret switch before opening the
safe. If a squint, scrot, cut-purse, evil-doer, slope, or drippy is
holding a gun to your head, you don't flip the secret switch.


I like this idea - but sounds like I'd have to buy a silent alarm
service....

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Loaded pistol will be in the safe - along with the other documents that
need fire protection.


Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security
safes. Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with a
hatchet. Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much harder for
a gremlin to open but get really hot inside.


I bought this one as a "dual use" to protect stuff inside from both heat
and
naredowells.
Thanks for the insight.

Djay


Why not just get a safety deposit box at your local bank??? Are they that
expensive to rent???

I dunno - banks have already screwed me enough! lol I may look into it
though.

Djay

"benick" wrote in
:

Why not just get a safety deposit box at your local bank??? Are they
that expensive to rent???

Yes they did get too expensive.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"djay" wrote in message
...

Why not just get a safety deposit box at your local bank??? Are they that
expensive to rent???

I dunno - banks have already screwed me enough! lol I may look into it
though.

Djay




Other problems with SD boxes at banks:
- They don't like it when you walk in with guns to put in the SD box.
- Gun in bank SD box won't do you any good at home.
- can't get in SD box after hours.

"djay" wrote in message
...
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay



Drill 4 holes in the bottom of the safe placing them so your wrench will fit
over the heads of the fasteners you will use. Place the safe where you want
it and mark the holes carefully with a pencil. You might also find it
helpful to mark the outside corners in the event something moves you will
know.

--

__
Roger Shoaf

Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.

"djay" wrote in message
...

This one didn't come with any mounting hardware... b 4
I drill into it, I'll call the manufacturer for any tips. I think
putting holes in it would definitely drop the fire rating?


It will but not to any appreciable degree. The floor on the bottom and the
washer on the top tend to keep the steam inside the safe in the event of a
fire, and the average residential fire does not blaze for as long as the
rating of the safe, so you should be OK.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 07:31:41 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these holes for
bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right place,
and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The bottom one had
a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread the
remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up from the
fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will have to
make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Add a tow chain, say ten feet. Anchored in the floor and tack welded
to the safe, they could only run so far.

ransley wrote:
On Apr 18, 7:31 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the
left side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the
bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into the slab and
bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these
holes for bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the
right place, and filled the form with concrete. I made five of
these. The bottom one had a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread
the remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up
from the fifth block was used to secure the safe.

Now, instead of a safe weighing about 70 pounds, the goblins will
have to make off with a blob weighing almost 500 pounds.

Another trick. You can put a switch inside the door of the safe with
hidden wires going to your 'silent holdup alarm' circuit. This
switch on the safe's door can be disabled by another switch in a
secret location. To use the safe normally, you flip the secret
switch before opening the safe. If a squint, scrot, cut-purse,
evil-doer, slope, or drippy is holding a gun to your head, you don't
flip the secret switch.

A pistol among the safe's contents has obvious uses.

Note: There are two general kinds of safes: fire safes and security
safes. Fire safes (i.e., typical 'Sentry' brand) can be opened with
a hatchet. Security safes made of tool-resistant steel are much
harder for a gremlin to open but get really hot inside.- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

So my new HD Sentry safe isnt safe? How unsafe is it against theft.

Much better, in some ways, than a cigar box. The downside is that it's
easier to hide a cigar box. A fire safe will prevent theft by the 'dash and
grab' crew but against a determined thief with a smattering of time, not so
much.

At my local safe company, they have a display of a Sentry fire safe ripped
apart with a roofing hatchet. The construction consists of two thin layers
of steel encasing about two inches of concrete. It's the concrete that gets
the fire rating - the steel is just a cover. Might as well be plastic. If
you can chop a hole in a hunk of corrugated iron, you can chop a hole in
most fire safes - the steel isn't much thicker.

I think the most fire and theft resistant safe for the home is the round
kind that fits inside the floor. To install it, you rent a 8" or 10" or
whatever concrete hole saw for the day, cut out a plug from your foundation,
lower the safe and add some cement.

Such as safe won't burn, you can't reach the recessed knob with a tool, and
it's REAL easy to conceal. I've got one in a closet, a bit of floor tile
covers the section containing the hole, and some nasty-looking underwear -
complete with brown stains - covers the tile.

Security safes are "T" rated: T10, T15, T50. This used to refer to the
number of thousands of dollars an insurance company would go for and was
directly related to how much trouble it would take a thief to crack the
sucker. What with inflation, I don't think the numbers refer, any more, to
actual money.

djay wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
djay wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting
hardware. So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. It's about 2 X
2 X 2.
I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. I'm thinking
about strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around
up the left side across the top and down the right side leaving
ears at the bottom. Kind of like an upside down U. Then drill into
the slab and bolt the ears down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts
and unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

Simple.

Drill one or more holes in the floor of the safe then use these
holes for bolts anchored in the floor.

I made a 2x2' form from scrap 2x4s, used bits of conduit in the right
place, and filled the form with concrete. I made five of these. The
bottom one had a bolt anchored in the concrete.

I was able to attach threaded rods to the imbedded bolts and thread
the remaining four slabs on the rod. The bit of the rod stickup up
from the fifth block was used to secure the safe.

So all of these slabs were under the safe? The conduit allowed the
thread-all
to pass to/through the next slab etc?


Actually, the "conduit" was a 3+" hunk of 3/4" PVC.

Yeah, except the thread-all passes through four slabs and the bottom of the
safe.

Once I got everything in place, I built a plywood shell for the slabs. Looks
like the safe is sitting on a block of wood. This safe contains data disks
and is about desk high. I just scoot my chair to the end of my desk, go
tappity-tappity on the combination, and I'm in businsess.

"Bob M." wrote in message
. ..
"djay" wrote in message
...

Why not just get a safety deposit box at your local bank??? Are they
that expensive to rent???

I dunno - banks have already screwed me enough! lol I may look into it
though.

Djay




Other problems with SD boxes at banks:
- They don't like it when you walk in with guns to put in the SD box.
- Gun in bank SD box won't do you any good at home.
- can't get in SD box after hours.

You do realize we are talking about a 2'X2' fire safe for important
documents , ect. , don't you??? Not gonna get to many guns in a 2'X2' FIRE
safe...A GUN SAFE is for guns and you should keep one hand gun on you.. Not
gonna do you much good in a safe even at home...I still think the best place
for very important documents , cash , jewlery , ect. is a safety deposit
box....

benick wrote:

Other problems with SD boxes at banks:
- They don't like it when you walk in with guns to put in the SD
box. - Gun in bank SD box won't do you any good at home.
- can't get in SD box after hours.

You do realize we are talking about a 2'X2' fire safe for important
documents , ect. , don't you??? Not gonna get to many guns in a 2'X2'
FIRE safe...A GUN SAFE is for guns and you should keep one hand gun
on you.. Not gonna do you much good in a safe even at home...I still
think the best place for very important documents , cash , jewlery ,
ect. is a safety deposit box....

One pistol will easily fit in a document safe. The purpose of the gun is not
to be protected by the safe, it is to shoot several times a gremlin that has
some less effective method of forcing to you to open the damn thing (such as
a knife to the throat of your wife). Hint: shoot the hostage first.

Gun safes are to protect guns. A single gun IN a safe is to protect you.

As an aside:
One problem with safety deposit boxes is that people can get in them without
your knowledge or permission - such as the Attorney General with a valid
warrant.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
benick wrote:

Other problems with SD boxes at banks:
- They don't like it when you walk in with guns to put in the SD
box. - Gun in bank SD box won't do you any good at home.
- can't get in SD box after hours.

You do realize we are talking about a 2'X2' fire safe for important
documents , ect. , don't you??? Not gonna get to many guns in a 2'X2'
FIRE safe...A GUN SAFE is for guns and you should keep one hand gun
on you.. Not gonna do you much good in a safe even at home...I still
think the best place for very important documents , cash , jewlery ,
ect. is a safety deposit box....

One pistol will easily fit in a document safe. The purpose of the gun is
not to be protected by the safe, it is to shoot several times a gremlin
that has some less effective method of forcing to you to open the damn
thing (such as a knife to the throat of your wife). Hint: shoot the
hostage first.

Gun safes are to protect guns. A single gun IN a safe is to protect you.

As an aside:
One problem with safety deposit boxes is that people can get in them
without your knowledge or permission - such as the Attorney General with a
valid warrant.


If you have said gun ON YOU he will never get that far , he will be dead
already...A concealed weapon permit is much better than a gun hidden in a
safe...You and SWMBO might be dead BEFORE the perp descovers the hiudden
safe with the gun...What then???If the AG has a search warrant , your house
will be searched at the same time...You will have to find a better spot than
a safe or a SDB to hide your illegal stuff and drug money...LOL...An
airtight container buried out back , perhaps???

benick wrote:

One pistol will easily fit in a document safe. The purpose of the
gun is not to be protected by the safe, it is to shoot several times
a gremlin that has some less effective method of forcing to you to
open the damn thing (such as a knife to the throat of your wife).
Hint: shoot the hostage first.

Gun safes are to protect guns. A single gun IN a safe is to protect
you. As an aside:
One problem with safety deposit boxes is that people can get in them
without your knowledge or permission - such as the Attorney General
with a valid warrant.


If you have said gun ON YOU he will never get that far , he will be
dead already...A concealed weapon permit is much better than a gun
hidden in a safe...You and SWMBO might be dead BEFORE the perp
descovers the hiudden safe with the gun...What then???If the AG has a
search warrant , your house will be searched at the same time...You
will have to find a better spot than a safe or a SDB to hide your
illegal stuff and drug money...LOL...An airtight container buried out
back , perhaps???

Your points are well taken.

I ALWAYS have a gun on me (except when taking a shower, sleeping, or playing
hide the pickle).

I have a concealed handgun license and never leave home without carrying two
pistols (admittedly one's not much - a five-shot .22 revolver - but it's my
BUG (Back Up Gun)).

True about the AG, but putting your valuables in a safety deposit box is
like burying Pharaoh under ten billion tons of stone blocks - it's just a
question of determination.

And it's often the "legal" stuff that gets you in trouble. In the '60s, in a
book called "Up the Organization" Peter Townsead made the point about
purging your files: "In a dispute with the taxing authorities, your records
will convict you irrespective of whether you're guilty."

On Apr 17, 11:54*pm, "djay" wrote:
I just received a very nice fireproof safe that has no mounting hardware.
So it's fireproof etc but not thief proof. *It's about 2 X 2 X 2.

I'd like to mount the sucker down with something. *I'm thinking about
strapping it down to the floor by wrapping angle iron around up the left
side across the top and down the right side leaving ears at the bottom.
Kind of like an upside down U. *Then drill into the slab and bolt the ears
down to the floor.

It won't insure that a determined thief won't just cut off the bolts and
unstrap it but it will definitely take longer.

Welcome for all comments/ideas?

Thanks!

Djay

When my father in law had a business he had two big freaking safes and
a cheap wall safe in his office. About 15 years ago it finally
happened, while they were gone somone broke in and tried to steal the
safes. They must have planned it pretty well because they cut the wall
safe out of the wall with a chain saw and had rented a truck with a
lift gate to move the safes. The thieves didnt know they had set off a
silent alarm and were caught trying to leave the property. My father
in law never told anyone there was nothing of value in the safes. He
had always kept his valuables in a floor safe hidden under a cabinet.
The thieves were 3 ft away from $100,000 in cash.

Jimmie

JIMMIE wrote:

When my father in law had a business he had two big freaking safes and
a cheap wall safe in his office. About 15 years ago it finally
happened, while they were gone somone broke in and tried to steal the
safes. They must have planned it pretty well because they cut the wall
safe out of the wall with a chain saw and had rented a truck with a
lift gate to move the safes. The thieves didnt know they had set off a
silent alarm and were caught trying to leave the property. My father
in law never told anyone there was nothing of value in the safes. He
had always kept his valuables in a floor safe hidden under a cabinet.
The thieves were 3 ft away from $100,000 in cash.



The cash might as well have been on the moon. How do you crack a floor safe?

Maybe I can answer my own question: With a jackhammer and huge air
compressor you could probably break up the concrete. That takes what? A
half-hour? Then you can probably yank the sucker and carry it off.

Definitely not a 'crash-and-dash' job.

HeyBub wrote:

One pistol will easily fit in a document safe. The purpose of the gun
is not to be protected by the safe, it is to shoot several times a
gremlin that has some less effective method of forcing to you to open
the damn thing (such as a knife to the throat of your wife). Hint:
shoot the hostage first.

Say what? Isn't that a bit Keyser Söze?

A safe certainly should be used to protect a gun from being stolen when
you're not home. A pal of mine had his house burgled and armed half the
hoods in town because of all the unsecured firearms he had sitting around,
hell of a nice guy but I had to think that was real irresponsible.

Gun safes are to protect guns. A single gun IN a safe is to protect
you.

A guy I worked with years ago had a gun held to his head while he opened the
company safe. He carried a .38 snub but he figured the bullet from the bad
guy's gun would be through his brain before his revolver cleared the
holster. He handed them the money they were after and lived to tell the
tale. Other circumstances might dictate a different response. A range I
used to shoot at was robbed, and at the point where the stickup man had all
the employees kneel in a row in a back room after getting what he wanted,
one employee (with a concealed .45) figured they were all about to be
executed anyway so he drew and killed the *******. The range had its
insurance cancelled because of the robbery and ended up closing, but at
least none of the good guys got killed. There is no one-size-fits-all rule.

As an aside:
One problem with safety deposit boxes is that people can get in them
without your knowledge or permission - such as the Attorney General
with a valid warrant.

So don't keep your plans for overthrowing the govt. there. Sheesh, one
would think people who figure they have something to hide would put a bit
more thought into how to hide it.

benick wrote:

If you have said gun ON YOU he will never get that far , he will be
dead already...

Maybe, I can think of a guy who had a pistol pressed to the back of his head
while he was forced to open a company safe so they could get the money they
obviously knew was there. He figured the odds of pulling action-hero moves
and shooting down all the bad guys didn't look so good in real life, so he
gave up the money and survived. People who spend time reading gun magazines
and shooting paper targets at a range aren't necessarily better off in a
situation where one or more guns are pointed at them ready to go "Bang!" in
a fraction of a second. It's easy to talk about doing it, it's a different
matter when somebody has the drop on you.

If the AG has a
search warrant , your house will be searched at the same time...You
will have to find a better spot than a safe or a SDB to hide your
illegal stuff and drug money...LOL...An airtight container buried out
back , perhaps???

To start with your lawyer's safe is considerably more resistant to search
warrants. There are probably lawyers who might object to storing bulky
packages with no explanations however. But if you're involved in activities
that have already attracted the serious attention of The Authorities then
presumably you've learned how and where to hide whatever it is you need
hidden. If they're that serious I'd anticipate them digging up my backyard
which is cool by me as not only do I have nothing to hide out there but it
would save me renting a Roto Tiller.

HeyBub wrote:

The cash might as well have been on the moon. How do you crack a
floor safe?

It all depends on how valuable they think the contents are, if they figure
it's worth the trouble they've going to contract-out someone who can get
past whatever security most of us can afford. In my experience of
commercial burglaries all you can do is strengthen your defenses to the
point where whatever it is you have inside is not worth the time of someone
who knows how to get past your security. At the lower end of the scale you
have to stop the smash-and-grab guys who are unlikely to use anything more
sophisticated than a crowbar. As you move up in value they know something
about alarms and come equipped with cordless recip. saws and so on to go
through walls. At the point where you're defending against someone like De
Niro's crew in the movie Heat you're spending more on security than most of
us own in property.

"DGDevin" wrote in message
...
through walls. At the point where you're defending against someone like
De Niro's crew in the movie Heat you're spending more on security than
most of us own in property.

That is sort of what I told an alarm company. For the price they charge, I
can take out a lot more insurance. Then let them take whatever they want
out of the house.
I may be able to get beter and newer stuff.
The way prices come down, I could get a newer and larger big screen TV than
what I payed for this one a few years ago. Same as for most electronic gear.

I do have a few guns locked up in a safe that weighs about 350 lb empty. If
it was not for a couple of shotguns that were passed down from the family,
the others could be replaced also. That should stop the smash and grab
people, but if someone really wants what is in the safe, they could probably
carry it off or get it open in about an hour or less.

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"DGDevin" wrote in message
...
through walls. At the point where you're defending against someone
like De Niro's crew in the movie Heat you're spending more on
security than most of us own in property.

That is sort of what I told an alarm company. For the price they
charge, I can take out a lot more insurance. Then let them take
whatever they want out of the house.
I may be able to get beter and newer stuff.
The way prices come down, I could get a newer and larger big screen
TV than what I payed for this one a few years ago. Same as for most
electronic gear.
I do have a few guns locked up in a safe that weighs about 350 lb
empty. If it was not for a couple of shotguns that were passed down
from the family, the others could be replaced also. That should stop
the smash and grab people, but if someone really wants what is in the
safe, they could probably carry it off or get it open in about an
hour or less.

Problem is, if the goblins carry off your gun safe, the loss probably won't
reach your deductable.