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#1
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I have a rental property that had a plumbing leak (it's fixed). The
base of the cabinet is particle board and has warped so that there's now about a 2" depression in the middle. Replacing the cabinet would result in having to replace *all* of the kitchen cabinets to match, so this isn't going to happen. I was thinking I'd use a self-leveling compound and then lay vinyl tiles over it. I could glue a piece of 1/8" plywood over the leveling compound if there may be a problem with the vinyl tile adhesive directly on the leveling compound. Am I on the right track here? Any suggestions for a self-leveling product (preferably non-cement based) I can get at Home Depot? |
#2
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On Mar 24, 11:04*am, Dave wrote:
I have a rental property that had a plumbing leak (it's fixed). *The base of the cabinet is particle board and has warped so that there's now about a 2" depression in the middle. Replacing the cabinet would result in having to replace *all* of the kitchen cabinets to match, so this isn't going to happen. I was thinking I'd use a self-leveling compound and then lay vinyl tiles over it. *I could glue a piece of 1/8" plywood over the leveling compound if there may be a problem with the vinyl tile adhesive directly on the leveling compound. Am I on the right track here? *Any suggestions for a self-leveling product (preferably non-cement based) I can get at Home Depot? Cut out the particle board an inch away from each edge, leaving a nice ledge for a new piece of plywood, fiberglass sheet or the material of your choice and drop it in with a bit of water resistant glue. No mess, no waiting, half hour done and gone. Joe |
#3
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Joe wrote:
Cut out the particle board an inch away from each edge, leaving a nice ledge for a new piece of plywood, fiberglass sheet or the material of your choice and drop it in with a bit of water resistant glue. No mess, no waiting, half hour done and gone. Joe If I go this route, why bother with the cutting? There is a problem with this method. Due to the size of the cabinet opening, I cannot fit the replacement piece into the cabinet as a solid piece. I would have to split it across the short dimension. Doing this leaves no support along the split. I might be able to put a 2x4 underneath along the split, but I won't know until I cut out what's there and then it will be too late. I'd rather try to work with what's there first. |
#4
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Dave wrote:
Joe wrote: Cut out the particle board an inch away from each edge, leaving a nice ledge for a new piece of plywood, fiberglass sheet or the material of your choice and drop it in with a bit of water resistant glue. No mess, no waiting, half hour done and gone. Joe If I go this route, why bother with the cutting? There is a problem with this method. Due to the size of the cabinet opening, I cannot fit the replacement piece into the cabinet as a solid piece. I would have to split it across the short dimension. Doing this leaves no support along the split. I might be able to put a 2x4 underneath along the split, but I won't know until I cut out what's there and then it will be too late. 1. Split the new piece 2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so. 3. Put in the piece from #3 4. Put in the other split piece. The batten will support it along the split. Screw to it if you like. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#5
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dadiOH wrote:
1. Split the new piece 2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so. 3. Put in the piece from #3 4. Put in the other split piece. The batten will support it along the split. Screw to it if you like. Yeah, I like this idea. I'll just stain the plywood and save myself the trouble of laying tiles. Thanks! |
#6
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In article , Dave wrote:
2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so. Yeah, I like this idea. I agree, very simple. I'll just stain the plywood and save myself the trouble of laying tiles. I'm less sure about the stain though. And I see a problem with the original vinyl tile approach too -- dirt gets trapped in the joint lines. I picked up some scrap sheet vinyl flooring for a few bucks and used that to line a couple of kitchen cupboards -- one under the sink and the other under the stove (pan storage). It worked great. Oh, I also sealed the corners to prevent dirt becomming trapped there, using clear silicone caulk. -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
#7
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On 3/24/2009 11:08 dadiOH wrote:
1. Split the new piece 2. Screw/glue a piece of 1x2 or 1x3 along the split on the bottom side of one piece so it overhangs the bottom by 3/4" or so. 3. Put in the piece from #3 4. Put in the other split piece. The batten will support it along the split. Screw to it if you like. Ok, so this is the approach I used. Because I wanted to leave as much of the original material as possible for support, I cut only a ~6" strip out of the center of the existing wood to accommodate the batten. I used 1x4 on the batten for the added support I like the idea of the vinyl flooring, but I didn't have time to search around for scrap pieces. I just stained the plywood to match the color of the existing cabinets and called it a day. I didn't glue the new piece in place. I wanted to be able to easily remove the platform in case there's another leak or whatever other reason I might have for needing to remove it. I cut it to pretty tight tolerances and screwed both pieces to the batten so it's a snug fit and won't move around. Thanks for the suggestions! |
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