The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer that
connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm 3-4 feet,
then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned the ducts of quite
a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could be put at the 90 ell, such
as a box, that would be below the horizontal run where the lint could
collect and be taken out rather than collecting in the long horizontal
run.


| |-vert duct
| |
_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
|_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.


--
charles

On Mar 5, 10:26*pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer that
connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm 3-4 feet,
then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned the ducts of quite
a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could be put at the 90 ell, such
as a box, that would be below the horizontal run where the lint could
collect and be taken out rather than collecting in the long horizontal
run.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *| *|-vert duct
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *| *|
_________________________________________________| *|__
_________________________________________________ * * *| -- box
* * * * * * horizontal duct * * * * * * * * * * *| * * |
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *|_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.

--
charles

I wouldn't be worried about the box interfering with the flow, (even
though it might) I'd be worried that it WOULD allow lint to collect
and cause a blockage. Better to get rid of the hose and have a rigid
connection between the dryer and the pipes to help flow and remove
lint catching turns & twists. Then change the 90deg elbow to two
45deg elbows like a sweep elbow plumbers use to help drains flow
better. Finally if possible make the horizontal duct flow downhill if
you can.

The fewer hard turns the better.

Limp Arbor wrote:
On Mar 5, 10:26 pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer
that connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm
3-4 feet, then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned
the ducts of quite a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could
be put at the 90 ell, such as a box, that would be below the
horizontal run where the lint could collect and be taken out rather
than collecting in the long horizontal run.

-vert duct

_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.

--
charles

I wouldn't be worried about the box interfering with the flow, (even
though it might) I'd be worried that it WOULD allow lint to collect
and cause a blockage. Better to get rid of the hose and have a rigid
connection between the dryer and the pipes to help flow and remove
lint catching turns & twists. Then change the 90deg elbow to two
45deg elbows like a sweep elbow plumbers use to help drains flow
better. Finally if possible make the horizontal duct flow downhill if
you can.

The fewer hard turns the better.

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint, it
required cleaning of the wet lint every 3 months for the dryer to work
properly. I replaced it with PVC sewer pipe, the type for underground
drainage. The pipes and fittings are smooth inside and the plastic holds the
heat in so that I only have to clean it out after several years. One thing I
did add were two clean-outs. Using a PVC "tee" and a cleanout fitting, it is
easy to unscrew the 4" plug and run a brush through the pipe to clean it
out.

Possibly you could use something similar.

On Mar 6, 9:40*am, "EXT" wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Mar 5, 10:26 pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer
that connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm
3-4 feet, then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned
the ducts of quite a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could
be put at the 90 ell, such as a box, that would be below the
horizontal run where the lint could collect and be taken out rather
than collecting in the long horizontal run.

-vert duct

_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.

--
charles

I wouldn't be worried about the box interfering with the flow, (even
though it might) I'd be worried that it WOULD allow lint to collect
and cause a blockage. *Better to get rid of the hose and have a rigid
connection between the dryer and the pipes to help flow and remove
lint catching turns & twists. *Then change the 90deg elbow to two
45deg elbows like a sweep elbow plumbers use to help drains flow
better. *Finally if possible make the horizontal duct flow downhill if
you can.

The fewer hard turns the better.

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint, it
required cleaning of the wet lint every 3 months for the dryer to work
properly. I replaced it with PVC sewer pipe, the type for underground
drainage. The pipes and fittings are smooth inside and the plastic holds the
heat in so that I only have to clean it out after several years. One thing I
did add were two clean-outs. Using a PVC "tee" and a cleanout fitting, it is
easy to unscrew the 4" plug and run a brush through the pipe to clean it
out.

Possibly you could use something similar.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

On Mar 5, 9:26*pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer that
connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm 3-4 feet,
then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned the ducts of quite
a bit of lint.

snip

These are one of the reasons I have never put a dryer anywhere except
on an outside wall. And never had any lint problems. Architects these
days seem to be pretty uninformed when it comes to designs compatible
with our appliances.

Joe

In article , Limp Arbor wrote:

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum
sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint,

I think I would have kept the nice robust metal and wrapped
it with some suitable insulation to reduce condensation
issues.

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

Fire risk? It's probably not a huge risk but it may put
you in violation of local codes. Check with your local
inspectors and see what they have to say. I understand
some inspectors will only sign off on PVC vents if they
are burried in concrete.

I guess static might be a minor issue too.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
| http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...
On Mar 6, 9:40 am, "EXT" wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Mar 5, 10:26 pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer
that connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm
3-4 feet, then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned
the ducts of quite a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could
be put at the 90 ell, such as a box, that would be below the
horizontal run where the lint could collect and be taken out rather
than collecting in the long horizontal run.

-vert duct

_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.

--
charles

I wouldn't be worried about the box interfering with the flow, (even
though it might) I'd be worried that it WOULD allow lint to collect
and cause a blockage. Better to get rid of the hose and have a rigid
connection between the dryer and the pipes to help flow and remove
lint catching turns & twists. Then change the 90deg elbow to two
45deg elbows like a sweep elbow plumbers use to help drains flow
better. Finally if possible make the horizontal duct flow downhill if
you can.

The fewer hard turns the better.

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum sheet
metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint, it
required cleaning of the wet lint every 3 months for the dryer to work
properly. I replaced it with PVC sewer pipe, the type for underground
drainage. The pipes and fittings are smooth inside and the plastic holds
the
heat in so that I only have to clean it out after several years. One thing
I
did add were two clean-outs. Using a PVC "tee" and a cleanout fitting, it
is
easy to unscrew the 4" plug and run a brush through the pipe to clean it
out.

Possibly you could use something similar.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?


*I thought metal is required for dryer duct. A call to your building
department should clarify this. If you have the same problem as the
previous poster you can insulate the duct.

On Mar 6, 1:49*pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , Limp Arbor wrote:

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum
sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint,

I think I would have kept the nice robust metal and wrapped
it with some suitable insulation to reduce condensation
issues.

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

Fire risk? It's probably not a huge risk but it may put
you in violation of local codes. Check with your local
inspectors and see what they have to say. I understand
some inspectors will only sign off on PVC vents if they
are burried in concrete.


agreed fire might be a concern and is probably against code but
wouldn't those cheap flexible rubber(?) ducts be more likely to catch
fire than schedule 40?

also most of the dryer hoods have a plastic cap and doors where they
exit the building.

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article
,
Limp Arbor wrote:

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum
sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint,

I think I would have kept the nice robust metal and wrapped
it with some suitable insulation to reduce condensation
issues.

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

Fire risk? It's probably not a huge risk but it may put
you in violation of local codes. Check with your local
inspectors and see what they have to say. I understand
some inspectors will only sign off on PVC vents if they
are burried in concrete.

I guess static might be a minor issue too.


PVC either doesn't burn or has a very high resistance to ignition, depending
on the breaks.

Future owner decides to tie a new drain into the existing
"drain" and then can't figure out why the water comes out
the dryer vent.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Limp Arbor" wrote in message
...

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

My dryer is in my basement. It was vented into the crawl space, but I
noticed it was molding the floor joists, so I had to reroute the venting. I
ran about 20 feet of metal dryer vent hose to the back of my house attached
to the above floor joists. I had problems with this almost immediately.
Water would condense inside the hose and the hose would sag to the point
that it would become blocked by the water and the dryer would no longer
vent. So I finally decided to use PVC. I cut two 4 inch holes in a 5 gallon
bucket lid, then attached galvanized fittings to the holes. Then I ran some
metal dryer vent hose from the dryer to one one the fittings on the bucket.
I then ran another metal dryer vent hose from the other fitting on the
bucket to the PVC which I have running to the back of the house via the
floor joists above. The bucket serves two purposes, the first is it acts as
a lint trap and the second is that it catches any water that condenses
inside the PVC. Just made sure your PVC is sloped back towards your bucket.
Yoyu will have to empty the water from your bucket every one or two months.


"Charles Bishop" wrote in message
...
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer that
connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm 3-4 feet,
then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned the ducts of quite
a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could be put at the 90 ell, such
as a box, that would be below the horizontal run where the lint could
collect and be taken out rather than collecting in the long horizontal
run.


| |-vert duct
| |
_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
|_____\ -door to collect
line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.


--
charles

Malcolm Hoar wrote:
In article
,
Limp Arbor wrote:

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum
sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture
to condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect
lint,

I think I would have kept the nice robust metal and wrapped
it with some suitable insulation to reduce condensation
issues.

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

Fire risk? It's probably not a huge risk but it may put
you in violation of local codes. Check with your local
inspectors and see what they have to say. I understand
some inspectors will only sign off on PVC vents if they
are burried in concrete.

I guess static might be a minor issue too.

The way I see it, fire is a less of a risk than with the thin vinyl dryer
tubes they sell for dryers, also gas furnaces and gas water heaters use PVC
as an exhaust for the burnt gasses.

I understand that a gas dryer would not be appropriate to use PVC unless it
was rated for it. I have used this system for 20 years with no problems,
actually so few problems that it is hard to remember to give it a cursury
cleanout every few years.

How cheap is 20 feet of 4 inch PVC piping? Also PVC 4 inch connectors
run about $4/ piece. Is it cheaper than 20 feet of galvanized 4 inch?
Five foot sections run about $5 here. Also if condensation is a
problem, why wouldn't insulation be the cheapest solution? I wouldn't
use vinyl tubing at all.

On Mar 6, 8:40*am, "EXT" wrote:
Limp Arbor wrote:
On Mar 5, 10:26 pm, (Charles Bishop) wrote:
The dryer has a duct like this: There is dryer hose at the dryer
that connects to 4" duct, which goes vertically down for about, umm
3-4 feet, then a 90, then a run of about 20 feet. I just cleaned
the ducts of quite a bit of lint. I'm wondering if something could
be put at the 90 ell, such as a box, that would be below the
horizontal run where the lint could collect and be taken out rather
than collecting in the long horizontal run.

-vert duct

_________________________________________________| |__
_________________________________________________ | -- box
horizontal duct | |
_____\ -door to collect line

Would this make sense, or would the box interfere with the flow of
exhaust? The vertical and horizontal runs are 4" metal duct.

--
charles

I wouldn't be worried about the box interfering with the flow, (even
though it might) I'd be worried that it WOULD allow lint to collect
and cause a blockage. *Better to get rid of the hose and have a rigid
connection between the dryer and the pipes to help flow and remove
lint catching turns & twists. *Then change the 90deg elbow to two
45deg elbows like a sweep elbow plumbers use to help drains flow
better. *Finally if possible make the horizontal duct flow downhill if
you can.

The fewer hard turns the better.

I replaced a long electric dryer pipe that was made of aluminum sheet metal.
The metal would drain the heat from the hot air allowing moisture to
condense on the inside of the pipe which would then collect lint, it
required cleaning of the wet lint every 3 months for the dryer to work
properly. I replaced it with PVC sewer pipe, the type for underground
drainage. The pipes and fittings are smooth inside and the plastic holds the
heat in so that I only have to clean it out after several years. One thing I
did add were two clean-outs. Using a PVC "tee" and a cleanout fitting, it is
easy to unscrew the 4" plug and run a brush through the pipe to clean it
out.

Possibly you could use something similar.

Good idea. If PVC can be, and is, used for high efficiency furnace
venting, then logically it will work for dryer vents.

Joe

On Mar 6, 3:24*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Future owner decides to tie a new drain into the existing
"drain" and then can't figure out why the water comes out
the dryer vent.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message

...

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

2 big reasons not to use PVC.

1. It is against most building codes.
2. The PVC will attract more lint than the metal due to static.
I clean dryer vents everyday and PVC causes the lint to "sheet" and
harden which blocks the vent once an edge gets loose.

Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com

CDET 14 wrote:
makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

2 big reasons not to use PVC.

1. It is against most building codes.
2. The PVC will attract more lint than the metal due to static.
I clean dryer vents everyday and PVC causes the lint to "sheet" and
harden which blocks the vent once an edge gets loose.

Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com

The trick is to prevent lint from entering the exhaust system in the first
place - fight the disease, not the symptom.

One way is to have a short run from the dryer into the bottom of a container
partially filled with water (an old wet-dry vac will probably work). From
above the water line, exhaust the pressurized air.

All the lint is trapped in the water!

You must clean out the crud from the container once every so often, but you
can sculpt some really neat looking things with the fiber-mache.

CDET 14 wrote:
On Mar 6, 3:24 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Future owner decides to tie a new drain into the existing
"drain" and then can't figure out why the water comes out
the dryer vent.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Limp Arbor" wrote in message

...

makes sense and PVC is cheap.

Group, any reason not to use PVC?

2 big reasons not to use PVC.

1. It is against most building codes.
2. The PVC will attract more lint than the metal due to static.
I clean dryer vents everyday and PVC causes the lint to "sheet" and
harden which blocks the vent once an edge gets loose.

Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com


OH MY GOD!! Another trade group!

Dryer Vent Cleaners of America

And they will certify you making you a:

Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician

Hurry! Positions and territories are going fast!

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:

2 big reasons not to use PVC.

1. It is against most building codes.
2. The PVC will attract more lint than the metal due to static.
I clean dryer vents everyday and PVC causes the lint to "sheet" and
harden which blocks the vent once an edge gets loose.

Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com


OH MY GOD!! Another trade group!

Dryer Vent Cleaners of America

And they will certify you making you a:

Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician

Hurry! Positions and territories are going fast!

TDD

Do they have their own newsgroup?

alt.blow?
alt.ventnotrickle?
rec.lintbegone?