Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

The "opening out" may be part of the problem, make sure that your hinges
don't have removeable pins.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

wrote in message
...
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?


Are you talking about this type of setup?
http://www.bilco.com/foundations/sto...5&category=117

Usually a carpenter does doors, but this style may or may not be in their
bag of tricks. Bilco can recommend an installer though, or the local dealer
will have a list.

If you are talking about a standard type of door, call a carpenter or home
repair/remodel contractor.

wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

An outward-opening door is not as easy to batter down as one that opens
inwards. On an outward-opening door, the door resists battering with its
entire frame. Having a 90° turn before you get to the door also prevents
long battering rams.

Usually it's not the door that's the most vulnerable part of the entrance.
Accessible hinge-pins are certainly a weak point as is a spreadable-frame on
the door. A $5 car jack can usually widen the frame sufficiently such that
the lock no longer engages.

The hinge-pin vulnerability can be overcome by driving a nails mostly into
one hole of each hinge, cutting off the end of the nail, and providing a
hole for the cut-off nail to enter when the door is closed. Then, even if
the hinge pins are removed, the nail shaft holds the door in place.

If legitimate access is required from the outside, you are somewhat limited.
It's not impossible to secure an outward-opening door (think bank vault),
security is just easier if the door always has to be opened from the inside.

In the latter case, it's easy to fashion door bracing devices or barricades
such that the thieves would have to take out the wall to get the door open!

Other things to do:
1. Put an alarm company sticker on the door.
2. Actually wire up the door to a loud local alarm.
3. Monitor the door entrance with a CCTV (even a dummy).
4. Get a gun or a dog or both.

As to your original questions:

1. Yes, you can secure a security door to masonry.
2. There are steel doors and there are security steel doors. There are even
steel FIRE doors which are a good compromise between the other two. Not that
there will be a fire at your place, but the steel shells of a fire door are
filled with concrete or other substantial material.
3. Then there are supplemental doors that are installed in addition to the
regular door - think burglar bar type closures.

On Feb 21, 7:31*am, Nate Nagel wrote:
wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. *I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? *Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. *(Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) *Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. *Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

The "opening out" may be part of the problem, make sure that your hinges
don't have removeable pins.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel

My wording was misleading: the door opens in. Hinges are on the
inside.

wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Standard full-size exterior door, or an odd size? Makes a big difference
in price. If a standard size fits, you can get a generic prehung
residential grade steel door in a wood frame for as little as a couple
hundred bucks (less if there is a scratch'n'dent door store near you),
and any competent carpenter can install it in a day. If you want a real
security door with a metal frame, you are talking commercial grade, and
2 or 3 times the money. If cost is no object, any window company that
installs storefronts can do the work, but they will be the most
expensive on labor. A metal frame gets mortared in place over lag bolts
run into the masonry wall. Very solid, but labor-intensive, and requires
at least 2 visits. Like the others said, door should open in, if
possible. And even with a metal door and a good separate deadbolt, a
door like that should have a bar on the inside, so even if they smash
the locks, they still can't get in. A bar will still work on an outward
opening door- you just have to have hangers mounted on the door itself,
as well. (Note that door bars may violate fire code in some areas- it
needs to be something you can operate in the dark in a panic, even if
code allows it.)

Can you post a couple of pictures someplace, and post the links back
here? A clear picture of the inside and outside will allow the folks
here to make much better recommendations. You do have my sympathy-
before I bought this place, I lived in an 'upscale' apartment project,
in an end ground floor unit with similar limited-view places for people
to break in at their leisure. After about the 4th break in, including
having the cheap (thin) metal-framed front door crowbarred, I said the
hell with it and moved.
--
aem sends...

On Feb 21, 8:21*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

Thanks for the long informative reply. (Thanks to the other three
posters also...you guys are up early...)

snip

An outward-opening door is not as easy to batter down as one that opens
inwards. On an outward-opening door, the door resists battering with its
entire frame. Having a 90° turn before you get to the door also prevents
long battering rams.

Sorry---door actually opens inward. They tried to pry it open, then
smashed it open with something. Door did pretty well actually, but
the plate where the bolt goes came off. (Web implies this is one of
the weaker parts of a door.)

All those points are good. My hand are kind of tied in terms of the
door itself because the stairs end not that far from the door, so it
can't be made outward-opening.

Usually it's not the door that's the most vulnerable part of the entrance..
Accessible hinge-pins are certainly a weak point as is a spreadable-frame on
the door. A $5 car jack can usually widen the frame sufficiently such that
the lock no longer engages.

The hinge-pin vulnerability can be overcome by driving a nails mostly into
one hole of each hinge, cutting off the end of the nail, and providing a
hole for the cut-off nail to enter when the door is closed. Then, even if
the hinge pins are removed, the nail shaft holds the door in place.

If legitimate access is required from the outside, you are somewhat limited.
It's not impossible to secure an outward-opening door (think bank vault),
security is just easier if the door always has to be opened from the inside.

In the latter case, it's easy to fashion door bracing devices or barricades
such that the thieves would have to take out the wall to get the door open!

Right. That's what I'm going to look into, in addition to getting a
steel door.

If you have any quick recommendations for braces etc, I'd be grateful,
but you've already given me some good info and I'm grateful for the
time you put into your thoughtful reply.

Thanks, and cheers.

(Re the below...I like dogs, but too much going on right now, and dogs
require a lot of care. But I agree 100% that a dog is probably the
best anti-burglar device.)



Other things to do:
1. Put an alarm company sticker on the door.
2. Actually wire up the door to a loud local alarm.
3. Monitor the door entrance with a CCTV (even a dummy).
4. Get a gun or a dog or both.

As to your original questions:

1. Yes, you can secure a security door to masonry.
2. There are steel doors and there are security steel doors. There are even
steel FIRE doors which are a good compromise between the other two. Not that
there will be a fire at your place, but the steel shells of a fire door are
filled with concrete or other substantial material.
3. Then there are supplemental doors that are installed in addition to the
regular door - think burglar bar type closures.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

You can install the door yourself. Skip the contrator and hire a
locksmith.


(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Of course. There are (expensive) blue screws made specifically for
masonry.

I'd be interested to know how the door was opened. Was the lock
broke? Hinge pins removed? Lock drilled out?

Put a flood light with motion detection. Install a security system or
get a dog.

On Feb 21, 8:36*am, aemeijers wrote:
wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. *I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? *Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. *(Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) *Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. *Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Standard full-size exterior door, or an odd size? Makes a big difference
in price.

Not sure. The door itself is 36" wide, and about 77" tall.
Hmm...that height doesn't sound very standard.

If a standard size fits, you can get a generic prehung
residential grade steel door in a wood frame for as little as a couple
hundred bucks (less if there is a scratch'n'dent door store near you),
and any competent carpenter can install it in a day. If you want a real
security door with a metal frame, you are talking commercial grade, and
2 or 3 times the money.

Any idea whether the metal frame helps that much? Or would a steel
door/wood frame with braces on the inside be relatively effective?

If cost is no object, any window company that
installs storefronts can do the work, but they will be the most
expensive on labor. A metal frame gets mortared in place over lag bolts
run into the masonry wall. Very solid, but labor-intensive, and requires
at least 2 visits. Like the others said, door should open in, if
possible.

Right. I mispoke in my original post---door opens in.

And even with a metal door and a good separate deadbolt, a
door like that should have a bar on the inside, so even if they smash
the locks, they still can't get in.

Right, I'm doing that in any case.

A bar will still work on an outward
opening door- you just have to have hangers mounted on the door itself,
as well. (Note that door bars may violate fire code in some areas- it
needs to be something you can operate in the dark in a panic, even if
code allows it.)

Good idea. I wanted "easy to remove in case of fire," but hadn't
realized the point about the dark.

Can you post a couple of pictures someplace, and post the links back
here? A clear picture of the inside and outside will allow the folks
here to make much better recommendations.

I'll try, though that might take awhile.

You do have my sympathy-
before I bought this place, I lived in an 'upscale' apartment project,
in an end ground floor unit with similar limited-view places for people
to break in at their leisure. After about the 4th break in, including
having the cheap (thin) metal-framed front door crowbarred, I said the
hell with it and moved.

If it happens again, we're going to get a dog, even though dogs are
kind of a hassle. (Don't get me wrong; I love 'em, but they're a lot
of work.)

I really appreciate the insightful post and kind words!

I'll see what I can do about the photos...actually, the guy stole our
camera (the only two items missing were the TV and the camera), so
that might take longer...

Cheers!

--
aem sends...

Most contractors prefer to supply their own materials. That
way, they get equipment they are familiar with.

Please also consider calling a locksmith. Many times, the
door can be reinforced, and more sturdy locks installed. If
you don't need to unlock it from the outside, you may be
able to build a cross bar, anchored into the cement. Lift to
remove, kind of thing.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our
TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal
security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the
door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire
someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view
of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current
frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to
replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800, woger151 wrote:

snip

Burglars do not 'burglarize'. Burglars burgle. There is no such word as
'burglarize'.

You were burgled.

FYI.


--
The month of March in this year of 2009 sees the centenary of the laying
of the keel of the most famous (or infamous) ocean liner of all time, RMS
Titanic, at Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RMS_Titanic

On Feb 21, 8:48*am, Phisherman wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. *I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? *Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

You can install the door yourself. * Skip the contrator and hire a
locksmith. *



(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. *(Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) *Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. *Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Of course. *There are (expensive) blue screws made specifically for
masonry.

Right. I've seen that kind of stuff, and masonry drill bits, etc.
What I wonder about is how well such screws "adhere" to the masonry,
or whether one has to inject some kind of filler/glue/cement.

I'd be interested to know how the door was opened. *Was the lock
broke? *Hinge pins removed? Lock drilled out? *

I mispoke in my original post. Door opens inward. Given the
situation, the door did pretty well, and the lock is a double dead-
bolt.

They tried to pry the door open...OK, looking at it right now, it
looks like the front and back are metal sheet, and between that
wood...where the lock is. Looks like that didn't work and then they
bashed in with something that left marks about 1" across.

Bolt and the plate the bolt goes through were lying on the floor. I
think that's what actually, finally failed.

Put a flood light with motion detection. Install a security system or
get a dog.

We're definitely going to get a security system.

Dog---I'm sure that's the best "system" out there, but we both work
and while I love dogs, they're kind of a hassle. Happens again,
though, we're getting a dog.

Possible factors contributing:
* Stairwell meant guy could do his work w/o anyone noticing
* Bought this place in June; lots of different people (furnace, pest
control) have been through. Maid service is large and uses different
maids every time.
* Both of us drove to work and no cars were in front of the house.

On Feb 21, 8:50*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Most contractors prefer to supply their own materials. That
way, they get equipment they are familiar with.

Please also consider calling a locksmith. Many times, the
door can be reinforced, and more sturdy locks installed. If
you don't need to unlock it from the outside, you may be
able to build a cross bar, anchored into the cement. Lift to
remove, kind of thing.

Yeah, "lift to remove" is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking of.

Thanks for your reply, and cheers.


--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

wrote in message

...
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our
TV.

I need to replace the door. *I'd like to get a metal
security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the
door? *Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire
someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. *(Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view
of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) *Current
frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. *Is it possible to
replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

have any windows ?

glass breaks easy

Avoid spending too much effort on a single faliure spot, when the
theif will just move to a easy access spot.

LONG shackle on lock must go thru strike plate and into stud or
concrete wall.

a security system that turns on security light with motion.

some nice signs protected by security system with cameras and some
fake cameras can go far to discourage a reoccurence.

OP is yours a bad neighborhood or a isolated incident ??

wrote:

If you have any quick recommendations for braces etc, I'd be grateful,
but you've already given me some good info and I'm grateful for the
time you put into your thoughtful reply.

Sure. Here's a commercial product (left picture), but you can fashion the
same thing with a 2x4 and a couple of brackets. Even the local SWAT team
would have trouble smashing their way through.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...LJ_en%26sa%3DN

You can also get the monstrous door stops - kinda like a sliding lock - that
pins into a hole in the concrete floor.

Right. I've seen that kind of stuff, and masonry drill bits, etc.
What I wonder about is how well such screws "adhere" to the masonry,
or whether one has to inject some kind of filler/glue/cement.

The blue coating on those screws is also a heat-activated glue. The
coating heats up from friction as it goes into the concrete, then sets
when you stop. If you stop halfway, the screw stays there. You'll need
a good driver to put them all the way in without stopping.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

Stairwell meant guy could do his work w/o anyone noticing

You can put a bulkhead over the top of the stairs, but that might not
meet SWMBO's decorating requirements. That part is up to you.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

Aardvark wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800, woger151 wrote:

snip

Burglars do not 'burglarize'. Burglars burgle. There is no such word
as 'burglarize'.

You were burgled.


"Burgle" is the preferred British verb, but "burglarize" is a (US) synonym.


Either, however, is closer than saying his house was "robbed."

An inanimate object - house, car, my ex-wife - cannot be 'robbed,' only a
live human being can be 'robbed' and then only by force, threat, or fraud. A
picked-pocket is not a robbery, it is a theft.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:36:18 GMT, aemeijers wrote:

wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Standard full-size exterior door, or an odd size? Makes a big difference
in price. If a standard size fits, you can get a generic prehung
residential grade steel door in a wood frame for as little as a couple
hundred bucks (less if there is a scratch'n'dent door store near you),
and any competent carpenter can install it in a day. If you want a real
security door with a metal frame, you are talking commercial grade, and
2 or 3 times the money. If cost is no object, any window company that
installs storefronts can do the work, but they will be the most
expensive on labor. A metal frame gets mortared in place over lag bolts
run into the masonry wall. Very solid, but labor-intensive, and requires
at least 2 visits. Like the others said, door should open in, if
possible. And even with a metal door and a good separate deadbolt, a
door like that should have a bar on the inside, so even if they smash
the locks, they still can't get in. A bar will still work on an outward
opening door- you just have to have hangers mounted on the door itself,
as well. (Note that door bars may violate fire code in some areas- it
needs to be something you can operate in the dark in a panic, even if
code allows it.)

Can you post a couple of pictures someplace, and post the links back
here? A clear picture of the inside and outside will allow the folks
here to make much better recommendations. You do have my sympathy-
before I bought this place, I lived in an 'upscale' apartment project,
in an end ground floor unit with similar limited-view places for people
to break in at their leisure. After about the 4th break in, including
having the cheap (thin) metal-framed front door crowbarred, I said the
hell with it and moved.

Get a fabricator to make up a steel door frame out of 2 1/2 X 2 1/4" X
3/16 angle iron and plate, welded in place into the opening in the
concrete so that the concrete is torally captured, and hang a standard
fire rated steel door with a security plate around the deadbolt.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 05:50:42 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Feb 21, 8:36Â*am, aemeijers wrote:
wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. Â*I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Â*Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. Â*(Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Â*Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Â*Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

Standard full-size exterior door, or an odd size? Makes a big difference
in price.

Not sure. The door itself is 36" wide, and about 77" tall.
Hmm...that height doesn't sound very standard.

36X80 is standard, and you can almost always remove some from top
and/or bottom. Particularly if you have a good fabricator working on
the job. He'll just install a steel (or stainless) cap on each end
cut.

If a standard size fits, you can get a generic prehung
residential grade steel door in a wood frame for as little as a couple
hundred bucks (less if there is a scratch'n'dent door store near you),
and any competent carpenter can install it in a day. If you want a real
security door with a metal frame, you are talking commercial grade, and
2 or 3 times the money.

Any idea whether the metal frame helps that much? Or would a steel
door/wood frame with braces on the inside be relatively effective?

If cost is no object, any window company that
installs storefronts can do the work, but they will be the most
expensive on labor. A metal frame gets mortared in place over lag bolts
run into the masonry wall. Very solid, but labor-intensive, and requires
at least 2 visits. Like the others said, door should open in, if
possible.

Right. I mispoke in my original post---door opens in.

And even with a metal door and a good separate deadbolt, a
door like that should have a bar on the inside, so even if they smash
the locks, they still can't get in.

Right, I'm doing that in any case.

A bar will still work on an outward
opening door- you just have to have hangers mounted on the door itself,
as well. (Note that door bars may violate fire code in some areas- it
needs to be something you can operate in the dark in a panic, even if
code allows it.)

Good idea. I wanted "easy to remove in case of fire," but hadn't
realized the point about the dark.

Can you post a couple of pictures someplace, and post the links back
here? A clear picture of the inside and outside will allow the folks
here to make much better recommendations.

I'll try, though that might take awhile.

You do have my sympathy-
before I bought this place, I lived in an 'upscale' apartment project,
in an end ground floor unit with similar limited-view places for people
to break in at their leisure. After about the 4th break in, including
having the cheap (thin) metal-framed front door crowbarred, I said the
hell with it and moved.

If it happens again, we're going to get a dog, even though dogs are
kind of a hassle. (Don't get me wrong; I love 'em, but they're a lot
of work.)

I really appreciate the insightful post and kind words!

I'll see what I can do about the photos...actually, the guy stole our
camera (the only two items missing were the TV and the camera), so
that might take longer...

Cheers!

--
aem sends...

Bubba wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

(snip)
It sounds like you need to replace the TV and while you are at it get
a gun and a bad ass attack dog.
Bubba

Between food and vet bills and the increased insurance premiums, not to
mention the general PITA factor of having to mine-sweep the yard,
probably cheaper to get robbed once in a while....
---
aem sends...

wrote:
....
I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

I've not read the whole thread, but several and your responses.

Overall, I've not seen the one thing I'd recommend as to the "who".

Most places of any size have one or more window/door manufacturers that
can make any frame size you need for any masonry wall thickness. These
can be two or three piece joining at the upper corner(s) and actually
wrap the wall in a single piece so there's no way it can actually be
moved w/o moving the wall once it's secured in place. They can make it
to fit the actual opening and installing is a DIY-level project assuming
one has the ubiquitous hammer-drill and a modicum of DIY skills.

It is also possible to have metal frames that are inset into the opening
and fastened as has been mentioned and they will also be sufficiently
stout nobody's going to just kick one in or move it w/o a very high
level of effort. Very few casual breakins are going to go to that much
effort; they'll go find easier pickin's somewhere else or just move to
and break a window next to the door instead.

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
wrote:
...
I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

I've not read the whole thread, but several and your responses.

Overall, I've not seen the one thing I'd recommend as to the "who".

Most places of any size have one or more window/door manufacturers that
can make any frame size you need for any masonry wall thickness. These
can be two or three piece joining at the upper corner(s) and actually wrap
the wall in a single piece so there's no way it can actually be moved w/o
moving the wall once it's secured in place. They can make it to fit the
actual opening and installing is a DIY-level project assuming one has the
ubiquitous hammer-drill and a modicum of DIY skills.

It is also possible to have metal frames that are inset into the opening
and fastened as has been mentioned and they will also be sufficiently
stout nobody's going to just kick one in or move it w/o a very high level
of effort. Very few casual breakins are going to go to that much effort;
they'll go find easier pickin's somewhere else or just move to and break a
window next to the door instead.

--

I agree , like rats , if you block one hole they will just find another way
in...Put a steele entry door back in and have a monitored alarm system
installed....Dogs are a PITA and are easily by passed with pepper
spray....With the economy as bad as it is crime is going through the
roof..Wife works in retail and shoplifting is skyrocketing as well and the
store is installing a security system and cameras , ect....Good luck

On Feb 21, 10:01*am, bob haller wrote:
have any windows ?

glass breaks easy

Avoid spending too much effort on a single faliure spot, when the
theif will just move to a easy access spot.

Absolutely true. Reason I want to concentrate on this spot is that
it's very hidden, so a burglar can take his time smashing through and
not be seen.

But yeah, you're right. Same principle goes for computer security,
too...


LONG shackle on lock must go thru strike plate and into stud or
concrete wall.

a security system that turns on security light with motion.

some nice signs protected by security system with cameras and some
fake cameras can go far to discourage a reoccurence.

OP is yours a bad neighborhood or a isolated incident ??

Neighborhood is pretty good, but within 1/2 mi starts going downhill,
but really nothing too bad. There definitely are occasional
burglaries in the area, AFAICT.

Rather I think it was a perfect storm:
(1) Like I say, exterior stairwell so burglar can smash his way in
relatively unseen;
(2) Both our cars gone that day;
(3) Bought house in June, and have had lots of people coming in.
(Meaning, it's possible someone tipped someone off.) One thing is a
maid service which has different maids every time. Even if almost all
the maids are decent folk---and I'm sure they are---2 new folks every
2 weeks means one bad apple can really screw things up.

Thanks for the reply!

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 07:31:26 -0500, Nate Nagel wrote:

wrote:
Someone broke open the basement door yesterday and stole our TV.

I need to replace the door. I'd like to get a metal security door.

(1) What kind of contractor should I hire to replace the door? Should
I buy my own door and have them install that, or hire someone who
supplies the door?

(2) It's a basement door opening out on an exterior concrete
stairwell. (Apparently the burglar liked that---out of view of
neighbors and street, unlike all the other doors.) Current frame is
3/4" thick and is mounted on masonry. Is it possible to replace all
that and somehow secure it to masonry?

The "opening out" may be part of the problem, make sure that your hinges
don't have removeable pins.

nate

Drill a small hole on the inside of the hinge, grind a flat at that point
on the hinge pin, put in a set screw loctited in place. Of course a
burglar could sawsall the hinges and remove the door. They also make
hinges with removable plates that will not allow the door to be removed
even if the pins are removed.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 12:51:23 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

On Feb 21, 10:01*am, bob haller wrote:
have any windows ?

glass breaks easy

Avoid spending too much effort on a single faliure spot, when the
theif will just move to a easy access spot.

Absolutely true. Reason I want to concentrate on this spot is that
it's very hidden, so a burglar can take his time smashing through and
not be seen.

But yeah, you're right. Same principle goes for computer security,
too...


LONG shackle on lock must go thru strike plate and into stud or
concrete wall.

a security system that turns on security light with motion.

some nice signs protected by security system with cameras and some
fake cameras can go far to discourage a reoccurence.

OP is yours a bad neighborhood or a isolated incident ??

Neighborhood is pretty good, but within 1/2 mi starts going downhill,
but really nothing too bad. There definitely are occasional
burglaries in the area, AFAICT.

Rather I think it was a perfect storm:
(1) Like I say, exterior stairwell so burglar can smash his way in
relatively unseen;
(2) Both our cars gone that day;
(3) Bought house in June, and have had lots of people coming in.
(Meaning, it's possible someone tipped someone off.) One thing is a
maid service which has different maids every time. Even if almost all
the maids are decent folk---and I'm sure they are---2 new folks every
2 weeks means one bad apple can really screw things up.

Thanks for the reply!

Our local Zip Code has a rash of burglaries, lately. The Metro PD made
notice, and then visited local grocery stores, speaking with locals
and giving tips for home security.

Those break-ins are 1-3 miles away. To far to shoot the guy :_)

On Feb 21, 8:53 am, Aardvark wrote:

Burglars do not 'burglarize'. Burglars burgle. There is no such word as
'burglarize'.



••••• "Burglarize" exists in my newest Canadian dictionary, my
American dictionary, and my on-line dictionary. However, Wikipedia
tells me that it is not yet recognised in Britain.

I've noticed that the English language spoken in Newfoundland (island
province off Canada's east coast) often is much older (less changed)
than that spoken in the UK.

Some old guys (like I) have difficulty accepting that languages
change---sometimes in different locations; some folks just roll with
it.

install a metal exterior hatch door with a solid bar inside, if entry
from outdoors isnt necessary.

how valuable was the TV?

borealbushman wrote in news:ab2e1e4e-bd8b-4d4d-
:

 "Burglarize" exists in my newest Canadian dictionary, my
American dictionary, and my on-line dictionary. However, Wikipedia
tells me that it is not yet recognised in Britain.

I've noticed that the English language spoken in Newfoundland (island
province off Canada's east coast) often is much older (less changed)
than that spoken in the UK.

Some old guys (like I) have difficulty accepting that languages
change---sometimes in different locations; some folks just roll with
it.

Language can change quite fast. We went from Holland to the US in 1969.
Within 10-20 years, our Dutch family and friends were saying that our
Dutch was not bad but very old-fashioned. Of course, by now that change
has become even more pronounced, especially since we can't go over there
as often (not only are we financially impeded because of the change in
exchange rates, some incentives - our parents - are not there anymore,
although other family and friends remain).

It has become especially difficult because new concepts don't always
translate, but are adopted into Dutch, especially computer terms, and
that sounds exceedingly funny.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:43:31 -0800 (PST), borealbushman
wrote:

recognised

Do you mean "recognized"?

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/burglarize
Whatever you do, don't tell the dictionary people this fact.
They will be so disappointed that they got it wrong, again.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Aardvark" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:15:18 -0800, woger151 wrote:

There is no such word as
'burglarize'.

Check the hardware sections of Home Depot. Along with fence
hinges, and such. I think I remember seeing some serious
hardware, there, If appearance is less a concern, a couple
huge barrel bolts will help to give your door strength.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
you don't need to unlock it from the outside, you may be
able to build a cross bar, anchored into the cement. Lift
to
remove, kind of thing.

Yeah, "lift to remove" is exactly the kind of thing I was
thinking of.

Thanks for your reply, and cheers.

wrote

Avoid spending too much effort on a single faliure spot, when the
theif will just move to a easy access spot.

Absolutely true. Reason I want to concentrate on this spot is that
it's very hidden, so a burglar can take his time smashing through and
not be seen.

Cut to the chase. Burglers do not like motion sensor lights.

Nor warm beer? I met a guy last year. The perps unscrewed
bulbs out of his motion light, and continued to burglarize.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"cshenk" wrote in message
...


Cut to the chase. Burglers do not like motion sensor
lights.

On Feb 21, 6:22*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:43:31 -0800 (PST), borealbushman

wrote:
recognised

Do you mean "recognized"?


Nope. I'm not American, and the US is the only English-language
country that spells it that way. No big deal; maybe the American
spelling is a sign of progress?

On Feb 21, 10:26�pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Nor warm beer? I met a guy last year. The perps unscrewed
bulbs out of his motion light, and continued to burglarize.

--


lights shouldnt be easily reachable and DONT leave a extension ladder
outdoors!

Knew a guy who had break ins.

he put up a couple motion detectors wired to a outlet. when going out
he powered it on.

anyone tresspass would instantly hear a radion turn on End of break
ins for him.

Low cost too.

dont tell anyone what your doing as a neighbors child might be a
druggie looking for $$ for his or her next fix

Han wrote:

Language can change quite fast. We went from Holland to the US in
1969. Within 10-20 years, our Dutch family and friends were saying
that our Dutch was not bad but very old-fashioned. Of course, by now
that change has become even more pronounced, especially since we
can't go over there as often (not only are we financially impeded
because of the change in exchange rates, some incentives - our
parents - are not there anymore, although other family and friends
remain).

It has become especially difficult because new concepts don't always
translate, but are adopted into Dutch, especially computer terms, and
that sounds exceedingly funny.

Yep. The Yiddish word for refrigerator is "refigerator."

"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

Yep. The Yiddish word for refrigerator is "refigerator."

The Dutch word is koelkast - literally cool chest/cupboard.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:43:31 -0800, borealbushman wrote:

On Feb 21, 8:53 am, Aardvark wrote:

Burglars do not 'burglarize'. Burglars burgle. There is no such word as
'burglarize'.



€¢€¢€¢€¢€¢ "Burglarize" exists in my newest Canadian dictionary, my American
dictionary, and my on-line dictionary. However, Wikipedia tells me that
it is not yet recognised in Britain.


Good grief! I doubt (and hope) that it never will. For one thing it's
such an 'inefficient' word from what I can see. I can understand words
contracting over time and usage, but expanding words is a phenomenon I've
never come across, or at least never noticed.

I've noticed that the English language spoken in Newfoundland (island
province off Canada's east coast) often is much older (less changed)
than that spoken in the UK.


Yes. Language would tend to evolve less slowly in more remote parts than
in urban settings. The development of mass media would tend, I think, to
'level the playing field' of language usage over time.

Some old guys (like I) have difficulty accepting that languages
change---sometimes in different locations; some folks just roll with it.

Believe me, I do understand and accept that language is a living,
developing thing. If it wasn't, we'd all still be speaking Shakespearian
English. Or worse, Chaucer's 'Middle English', a combination of Latin,
Middle French, Germanic and other influences. that'd be fun :-)

The government of the Republic of Ireland has a department whose remit is
to invent words in Gaelic for which traditional Gaelic has no term of
reference. High tech words for a low tech language :-)



--
The month of March in this year of 2009 sees the centenary of the laying
of the keel of the most famous (or infamous) ocean liner of all time, RMS
Titanic, at Harland & Wolff shipyard in Belfast.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RMS_Titanic

One fellow I knew, wired the detector to one bulb, and the
other was a cord, to a radio indoors. So he knew if someone
was walking through his yard. Clever. Of course, irrelevant
if no one home.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"bob haller" wrote in message
...

lights shouldnt be easily reachable and DONT leave a
extension ladder
outdoors!

Knew a guy who had break ins.

he put up a couple motion detectors wired to a outlet. when
going out
he powered it on.

anyone tresspass would instantly hear a radion turn on End
of break
ins for him.

Low cost too.

dont tell anyone what your doing as a neighbors child might
be a
druggie looking for $$ for his or her next fix