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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)


OK, here's an overview of the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863

This is the result of two separate leaks over time. It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.

Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout
- with exceptions.

Here's the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871

The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. There's a Tee
in there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. Note that
the framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.

As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. That leak was repaired a long time ago. This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.

Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: (kinda large file)

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935

Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously
one on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower. I'm guessing that the builder got tired of 'relieving' the
framing member, and there just wasn't room for the fitting. (Also no
way to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting). Really
substandard work. Not to speak ill of the certainly-dead-by-now, but --
What a moron.

I'm looking for a solution here. My primary plan is to remove the whole
trap, use a sawzall at the lower right of the first photo, install a new
fitting (PVC probably) into the brass Tee, create enough room to tighten
the fitting this time, and somehow join the other end to the cut drain pipe.

The pipe heading into the Tee measures 1.5" O.D. The O.D. of the drain
pipe where I plan to cut is 1.75". If I use PVC, how the heck am I
going to make the junction?

I saw a halfway similar segment on Ask This Old House, and Richard used
sort of a bellows type of flexible coupler that used hose clamps. How
would that work with two different sizes of pipe?

(Yeah, also planning to reinforce that framing member, even though it's
held up fine for 68 years; it's also holding up the tub!)

Ideas welcome. Thanks.








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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

On Jan 3, 3:49*pm, Robert Barr wrote:
OK, here's an overview of the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863

This is the result of two separate leaks over time. *It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.

Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout
- with exceptions.

Here's the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871

The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. *There's a Tee
in there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. *Note that
the framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.

As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. *That leak was repaired a long time ago. *This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.

Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: *(kinda large file)

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935

Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously
one on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower. *I'm guessing that the builder got tired of 'relieving' the
framing member, and there just wasn't room for the fitting. *(Also no
way to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting). *Really
substandard work. *Not to speak ill of the certainly-dead-by-now, but --
What a moron.

I'm looking for a solution here. *My primary plan is to remove the whole
trap, use a sawzall at the lower right of the first photo, install a new
fitting (PVC probably) into the brass Tee, create enough room to tighten
the fitting this time, and somehow join the other end to the cut drain pipe.

The pipe heading into the Tee measures 1.5" O.D. *The O.D. of the drain
pipe where I plan to cut is 1.75". *If I use PVC, how the heck am I
going to make the junction?

I saw a halfway similar segment on Ask This Old House, and Richard used
sort of a bellows type of flexible coupler that used hose clamps. *How
would that work with two different sizes of pipe?

(Yeah, also planning to reinforce that framing member, even though it's
held up fine for 68 years; it's also holding up the tub!)

Ideas welcome. *Thanks.


The joint was probably soldered/brazed at the time of installation or
it would have leaked like a sieve from the get go.

I'm not a big fan of using corrugated anything where water flow is
involved. The corrugations present a ready place for stuff to get
lodged.. That being said, since you already have the ceiling open and
you know where the pertinent plumbing points are, you could install
and access door in the basement ceiling and have easy access for
clearing clogs.

Fernco makes a lot of rubber fittings with the stainless pipe clamps.
I'm sure they will have something that will fit your needs. Don't use
a corrugated fitting unless you need to.

R
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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)


"Robert Barr" wrote in message
...

OK, here's an overview of the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863

This is the result of two separate leaks over time. It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.

Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout -
with exceptions.

Here's the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871

The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. There's a Tee in
there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. Note that the
framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.

As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. That leak was repaired a long time ago. This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.

Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: (kinda large file)

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935

Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously one
on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower.



The pipe probably screws into the tee. I think your problem here is 70
years of age. Corrosion has done those parts in. I would install a new tub
drain and trap replacing everything you see in the picture.


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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

On Jan 3, 3:39*pm, "Pat" wrote:
"Robert Barr" wrote in message

...







OK, here's an overview of the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863


This is the result of two separate leaks over time. *It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit..


Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout -
with exceptions.


Here's the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871


The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. *There's a Tee in
there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. *Note that the
framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.


As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. *That leak was repaired a long time ago. *This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.


Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: *(kinda large file)


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935


Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously one
on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower.


The pipe probably screws into the tee. *I think your problem here is 70
years of age. *Corrosion has done those parts in. *I would install a new tub
drain and trap replacing everything you see in the picture.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Replace it with abs and get a 1 1/2 abs to 1 1/4or 1/2 brass fitting
which are made they are designed to compress around the pipe you have
if glued properly you should have no problem , I would consider
redoing the drain completly in abs as it is all 70 yrs old and probaly
paper thin in places
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Posts: 206
Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

On Jan 3, 4:22*pm, jim wrote:
On Jan 3, 3:39*pm, "Pat" wrote:





"Robert Barr" wrote in message


. ..


OK, here's an overview of the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863


This is the result of two separate leaks over time. *It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.


Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout -
with exceptions.


Here's the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871


The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. *There's a Tee in
there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. *Note that the
framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.


As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. *That leak was repaired a long time ago. *This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.


Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: *(kinda large file)


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935


Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously one
on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower.


The pipe probably screws into the tee. *I think your problem here is 70
years of age. *Corrosion has done those parts in. *I would install a new tub
drain and trap replacing everything you see in the picture.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Replace it with abs and get a 1 1/2 abs to 1 1/4or 1/2 brass fitting
which are made they are designed to compress around the pipe you have
if glued properly you should have no problem , I would consider
redoing the drain completly in abs as it is all 70 yrs old and probaly
paper thin in places- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Besides the old drum trap you have is no longer made .


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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

On Jan 3, 4:24*pm, jim wrote:
On Jan 3, 4:22*pm, jim wrote:





On Jan 3, 3:39*pm, "Pat" wrote:


"Robert Barr" wrote in message


. ..


OK, here's an overview of the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863


This is the result of two separate leaks over time. *It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.


Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout -
with exceptions.


Here's the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871


The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. *There's a Tee in
there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. *Note that the
framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.


As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. *That leak was repaired a long time ago. *This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.


Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: *(kinda large file)


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935


Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously one
on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower.


The pipe probably screws into the tee. *I think your problem here is 70
years of age. *Corrosion has done those parts in. *I would install a new tub
drain and trap replacing everything you see in the picture.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Replace it with abs and get a 1 1/2 abs to 1 1/4or 1/2 brass fitting
which are made they are designed to compress around the pipe you have
if glued properly you should have no problem , I would consider
redoing the drain completly in abs as it is all 70 yrs old and probaly
paper thin in places- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


*Besides the old drum trap you have is no longer made .- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


The corrugated flexible coupling would tend to trap rough stuff, but
unless he has an unbelievably strange family, I wouldn't expect that
hair would build up appreciably on the inside of a corrugated coupling.
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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

On Jan 3, 5:56*pm, Van Chocstraw
wrote:
Robert Barr wrote:

OK, here's an overview of the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863


This is the result of two separate leaks over time. *It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit..


Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout
- with exceptions.


Here's the problem:


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871


The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. *There's a Tee
in there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. *Note that
the framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.


As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. *That leak was repaired a long time ago. *This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.


Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: *(kinda large file)


http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935


Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously
one on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower. *I'm guessing that the builder got tired of 'relieving' the
framing member, and there just wasn't room for the fitting. *(Also no
way to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting). *Really
substandard work. *Not to speak ill of the certainly-dead-by-now, but --
What a moron.


I'm looking for a solution here. *My primary plan is to remove the whole
trap, use a sawzall at the lower right of the first photo, install a new
fitting (PVC probably) into the brass Tee, create enough room to tighten
the fitting this time, and somehow join the other end to the cut drain
pipe.


The pipe heading into the Tee measures 1.5" O.D. *The O.D. of the drain
pipe where I plan to cut is 1.75". *If I use PVC, how the heck am I
going to make the junction?


I saw a halfway similar segment on Ask This Old House, and Richard used
sort of a bellows type of flexible coupler that used hose clamps. *How
would that work with two different sizes of pipe?


(Yeah, also planning to reinforce that framing member, even though it's
held up fine for 68 years; it's also holding up the tub!)


Ideas welcome. *Thanks.


I would rip all that lead and iron plumbing out and replace it with PVC
or CPVC.

--
//--------------------\\
* * * * Van Chocstraw
*\\--------------------//- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


the more Ilook it appears to me the overflow is the source of your
leak probaly a worn out gasket hence the marks on the floor under the
tub.
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Default Plumbing: coupling question (photos)

Robert Barr wrote:

OK, here's an overview of the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748863

This is the result of two separate leaks over time. It's a finished
basement bedroom, and was a pretty low priority, so it languished a bit.

Home was built around 1940, usually top-quality construction throughout
- with exceptions.

Here's the problem:

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748871

The brass tube heading upward is from the tub overflow. There's a Tee
in there, with a pipe heading back to pick up the tub drain. Note that
the framing lumber was relieved to make room for the plumbing.

As I noted, there was another leak which caused a lot of the white
discoloration. That leak was repaired a long time ago. This current
problem is the one I'm addressing, and it obviously begins at that Tee,
where the pipe heads downward toward the trap.

Here's a much better view of the bottom of that Tee: (kinda large file)

http://www.pbase.com/robertbarr/image/107748935

Unless there's something really wrong with my eyesight, there's no
compression fitting on the lower outlet of that Tee! There's obviously
one on the upper joint (where there was plenty of room), but none on the
lower. I'm guessing that the builder got tired of 'relieving' the
framing member, and there just wasn't room for the fitting. (Also no
way to get a wrench in there to tighten the fitting). Really
substandard work. Not to speak ill of the certainly-dead-by-now, but --
What a moron.

I'm looking for a solution here. My primary plan is to remove the whole
trap, use a sawzall at the lower right of the first photo, install a new
fitting (PVC probably) into the brass Tee, create enough room to tighten
the fitting this time, and somehow join the other end to the cut drain
pipe.

The pipe heading into the Tee measures 1.5" O.D. The O.D. of the drain
pipe where I plan to cut is 1.75". If I use PVC, how the heck am I
going to make the junction?

I saw a halfway similar segment on Ask This Old House, and Richard used
sort of a bellows type of flexible coupler that used hose clamps. How
would that work with two different sizes of pipe?

(Yeah, also planning to reinforce that framing member, even though it's
held up fine for 68 years; it's also holding up the tub!)

Ideas welcome. Thanks.



As noted, the tubing from the bottom of the TEE was likely soldered in.
The male threads on the TEE accept 1 1/2" pipe fittings.
Saw off the tubing, then screw a PVC or ABS female adapter onto
the TEE threads. (May have to "relieve" the framing a bit more?)

Cut the entire drum trap out and replace it with a PVC or ABS
P-trap. Use a "Mission" style Fernco coupling (these don't have
the full stainless band and are somewhat more flexible) to connect
to the remaining lead pipe (if ripping all the lead out to the
stack isn't feasible).

Ideally, replace the entire waste and overflow setup on the
tub, including the waste "shoe" on the bottom. But the pics
look like that could be near impossible.

t'other Jim
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