I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

wrote in message
...
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

The 12V devices are fine for lighting, but they won't operate your
refrigerator or heater. If you have any long time failures, a generator is
the way to go.

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in
:


wrote in message
...
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

The 12V devices are fine for lighting, but they won't operate your
refrigerator or heater. If you have any long time failures, a
generator is the way to go.




just be sure to use the generator far enough away from your duplex so you
don't poison yourself with carbon monoxide gas from the exhaust.
Buy a CO detector for indoors,too.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

The 12V devices are fine for lighting, but they won't operate your
refrigerator or heater. If you have any long time failures, a generator is
the way to go.


OK....

But would a 1000 watt Honda unit suffice? Its abt all I
could afford right now..... and also have good
portability

Maybe a mix of BOTH would work best? The generator for
bigger devices and 12 volt jump battery for lighting,
etc?

wrote in message

But would a 1000 watt Honda unit suffice? Its abt all I
could afford right now..... and also have good
portability

Maybe a mix of BOTH would work best? The generator for
bigger devices and 12 volt jump battery for lighting,
etc?

1000 watts (8.3 amps) will run any refrigerator, freezer, but probably not a
furnace or boiler. Plenty of room for lighting, TV, cable box, computer,
and the like. If all you need is a reading light, batteries are OK. I have
a couple of kerosene lamps, but they can be a danger with pets or kids. In
my life, I've only ever had one power failure of any length, about 30 hours
after a hurricane. Given that record I've not justified a generator.

A 1000 watt generator could operate lighting but not much more. Forget
the refrigerator. Even a more powerful generator would use more gas to
keep food in the fridge than it would be worth. Better to get a couple
of plastic coolers and put the food outside during the outage. Consider
any frozen food as lost (unless it is below zero outside). For lights,
get an inverter and a couple of deep cycle batteries. This arrangement
would give you lights for almost a week if you are careful.


---MIKE---
In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
(44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')

wrote:

I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

In addition to what the others have said, forget about the jump start
batteries. I use deep discharge batteries, like trolling motor
batteries, along with an inverter. With a properly sized inverter it
will handle compact florescence lights without any problem. An
inverter big enough for the fridge will run one battery down pretty
quick. Be sure and get a good intelligent battery charger and top the
batteries off every month or so.
--
Jim Rusling
More or Less Retired
Mustang, OK
http://www.rusling.org

wrote:

I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

First, you must ask yourself EXACTLY what you want to power and
prioritize the importance of each. Only then will you be able to get
useful advice on how to generate the necessary power.

Personally, I believe a small Honda (I own an EU2000i) MAY be the most
simple, reliable, least hastle-prone solution (it was for me) but NOONE
will be able to give you good advice until YOU are able to identify your
needs and wants.

On Dec 20, 3:28*pm, wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

Where would you run a gen that is at least 15 feet away, where
hopefully no Co enters your home and it wouldnt get stolen at the
complex. Neighbors might just say fumes bother them since they are out
of power. The quiet Honda inverter is expensive, if you have a porch
it might work, but it could easily poison you even with windows and
doors closed.

I havn't tried a fridge on 1000 watts. Might work, never know. For power
cuts in the winter, fuel based light is good, as it produces heat. Candles,
oil lamps, camping mantle lanterns, and so on. 1000 watts will run most
furnaces for heat. But not for AC. Food outside in the cold is good idea.
Use of resources.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"---MIKE---" wrote in message
...
A 1000 watt generator could operate lighting but not much more. Forget
the refrigerator. Even a more powerful generator would use more gas to
keep food in the fridge than it would be worth. Better to get a couple
of plastic coolers and put the food outside during the outage. Consider
any frozen food as lost (unless it is below zero outside). For lights,
get an inverter and a couple of deep cycle batteries. This arrangement
would give you lights for almost a week if you are careful.


---MIKE---
In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
(44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')

Been a while since I measured the amp draw of my furnace. The old one was
five or six amps, less than I'd expected. Gas valve, and third horse blower.
Not all that much. I'd figure the refrig as higher load, with the start
current needs of the compressor.

If you can use kerosene safely, it puts out heat. Which is useful in the
winter.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...


1000 watts (8.3 amps) will run any refrigerator, freezer, but probably not a
furnace or boiler. Plenty of room for lighting, TV, cable box, computer,
and the like. If all you need is a reading light, batteries are OK. I have
a couple of kerosene lamps, but they can be a danger with pets or kids. In
my life, I've only ever had one power failure of any length, about 30 hours
after a hurricane. Given that record I've not justified a generator.

Why would I want to forget jump start batteries? They charge relatively
easily off a lighter socket cord, and have enough power to run a fluorescent
light for a while.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Rusling" wrote in message
g...

In addition to what the others have said, forget about the jump start
batteries. I use deep discharge batteries, like trolling motor
batteries, along with an inverter. With a properly sized inverter it
will handle compact florescence lights without any problem. An
inverter big enough for the fridge will run one battery down pretty
quick. Be sure and get a good intelligent battery charger and top the
batteries off every month or so.
--
Jim Rusling
More or Less Retired
Mustang, OK
http://www.rusling.org

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Why would I want to forget jump start batteries? They charge relatively
easily off a lighter socket cord, and have enough power to run a fluorescent
light for a while.

They are very limited on AH and are not designed for deep discharge.
--
Jim Rusling
More or Less Retired
Mustang, OK
http://www.rusling.org

ransley wrote:

Where would you run a gen that is at least 15 feet away, where
hopefully no Co enters your home and it wouldnt get stolen at the
complex. Neighbors might just say fumes bother them since they are out
of power. The quiet Honda inverter is expensive, if you have a porch
it might work, but it could easily poison you even with windows and
doors closed.

Hmmmm... agree

That's kind of why I didn't want a gas engine powered
solution.... the potential CO problem

But..... what abt deep discharge batteries? Wont they
give off fumes if in the house as well? Must they be
outside as well?

Erma1ina wrote:

First, you must ask yourself EXACTLY what you want to power and
prioritize the importance of each. Only then will you be able to get
useful advice on how to generate the necessary power.

Personally, I believe a small Honda (I own an EU2000i) MAY be the most
simple, reliable, least hastle-prone solution (it was for me) but NOONE
will be able to give you good advice until YOU are able to identify your
needs and wants.

Agree

Well Id need to keep warm..... I guess that "could" be
a electric heater rather than trying to power gas
furnace... but then the amp draw would be tremendous.
Yes?

And would need 'some" light..... ability run small
microwave to cook with

wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)


How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? (hopefully it's gas)

I just tried out my little Yamaha generator (inverter, 2000W continuous)
today for the first time feeding the house. It will power my fridge and
furnace and a few lights all at once with no problems -- but it will not
power the fridge and both freezers at once if they are all starting at
the same time.

I actually replaced a few of the compact fluorescents with 100W
incandescent bulbs because the generator was not happy with all the
inductive loads I had initially. It kept idling down and then surging.
The Honda EU2000i might have handled everything better even though
it's only rated 1600W because you can disable the "Smart Throttle" on
it. (It's on all the time on the Yamaha) OTOH, maybe I just need to set
the idle a little faster on the Yamaha.

But I don't need to run both freezers at the same time, and in an
emergency in the winter, could just put all the food in big cardboard
boxes out in the garage and leave the freezers unplugged (and open so
they don't stink.)

Bob

wrote:
Erma1ina wrote:

First, you must ask yourself EXACTLY what you want to power and
prioritize the importance of each. Only then will you be able to get
useful advice on how to generate the necessary power.

Personally, I believe a small Honda (I own an EU2000i) MAY be the most
simple, reliable, least hastle-prone solution (it was for me) but NOONE
will be able to give you good advice until YOU are able to identify your
needs and wants.

Agree

Well Id need to keep warm..... I guess that "could" be
a electric heater rather than trying to power gas
furnace... but then the amp draw would be tremendous.
Yes?

And would need 'some" light..... ability run small
microwave to cook with

It's been more than 20 years but I remember
running a small house off a little Honda
generator in the attic. I had a box fan in
the gable vent that always ran whenever the
generator was on. It was one of those strange
times when a damn hippie house mate screwed
things up with the power company so bad that
the utility demanded a huge cash deposit to
restore the power. Life is such a wild mix of
experiences.

TDD

zxcvbob wrote:

How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? (hopefully it's gas)

I don't know

The more advice I get about this the more I'm starting
to think that "bugging out" is better option..... that
is to pick a predetermined place to go and stay till
electricity comes back up

Maybe I should forget abt buying gear for staying put
(generator, etc)..... and instead buy gear for packing
up and hiking out (backpack, clothing, camp gear,
etc)??

What say?

On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:14:24 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Why would I want to forget jump start batteries? They charge relatively
easily off a lighter socket cord, and have enough power to run a fluorescent
light for a while.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"Jim Rusling" wrote in message
rg...

In addition to what the others have said, forget about the jump start
batteries. I use deep discharge batteries, like trolling motor
batteries, along with an inverter. With a properly sized inverter it
will handle compact florescence lights without any problem. An
inverter big enough for the fridge will run one battery down pretty
quick. Be sure and get a good intelligent battery charger and top the
batteries off every month or so.


A normal "jump start
battery is 12 to 22 AH. When it's dead, you are out of power unless
you have a generator to recharge it.
A pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries (GC2H) is about 225 AH - an
average trolling motoer battery somewhere around 100AH.. That is
1.2kwh - equivalent to running the 1000 watt Honda for 1.2 hours.

The generator is a lot more flexible - particularly the inverter type
"E" series Hondas which throttle to provide only the amount of power
being drawn - unlike a normal AC generator that needs to run at a
fixed speed regardless of load.
Just make sure you have gasoline available, or it is as useless as a
dead battery.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:22:59 -0600, wrote:

Erma1ina wrote:

First, you must ask yourself EXACTLY what you want to power and
prioritize the importance of each. Only then will you be able to get
useful advice on how to generate the necessary power.

Personally, I believe a small Honda (I own an EU2000i) MAY be the most
simple, reliable, least hastle-prone solution (it was for me) but NOONE
will be able to give you good advice until YOU are able to identify your
needs and wants.

Agree

Well Id need to keep warm..... I guess that "could" be
a electric heater rather than trying to power gas
furnace... but then the amp draw would be tremendous.
Yes?

And would need 'some" light..... ability run small
microwave to cook with


Given those requirements you want an E2000 Honda.
Nothing less.

On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:20:40 -0600, wrote:

ransley wrote:

Where would you run a gen that is at least 15 feet away, where
hopefully no Co enters your home and it wouldnt get stolen at the
complex. Neighbors might just say fumes bother them since they are out
of power. The quiet Honda inverter is expensive, if you have a porch
it might work, but it could easily poison you even with windows and
doors closed.

Hmmmm... agree

That's kind of why I didn't want a gas engine powered
solution.... the potential CO problem

But..... what abt deep discharge batteries? Wont they
give off fumes if in the house as well? Must they be
outside as well?


If you use batteries, use "starved electrolyte" or "AGM" batteries. No
gassing. Optima YellowTops are a good reasonable solution - or go with
Hawker Genesis EPs if your budget stretches that far (they are PRICEY,
but excellent batteries)

I'd recommend the generator option but you must address several issues:

First you must isolate your electric system from other tenants in the
building, and from the local utility while you're generating. If you
don't do this the best case is that the generator will trip out from
overload. worse case, you will electrocute some poor lineman trying to
restore your service. Usually this isolation is done by installing a
transfer switch at your service inlet. This switch allows you to power
your house from the electric line or your generator, but not from both
at the same time.

List all the devices that you intend to power and find out how much
power they consume.

Develop a plan about how you will dispatch the devices. To size the
generator you need to decide which devices you need to run, and which
devices you will run at the same time. After you have done this you can
then size the generator based on the maximum load. For example if the
refrigerator and furnace (running at the same time) would overload the
generator you can shut one off while the other is running. By developing
a load management strategy you can get by with a much smaller generator.

Locate the generator in a well ventilated area outside your residence
where the exhaust and noise will not bother you or the neighbors.

Keep a reasonable amount of fuel on hand, in a safe place.

Locate fire suppression (extinguishers) equipment in an area that you
can get to if the fuel supply or the generator should catch fire.

Finally have the whole system inspected by a capable electrician before
you turn it on.

HTH
EJ in NJ



wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

On Dec 20, 4:08*pm, (---MIKE---) wrote:
A 1000 watt generator could operate lighting but not much more. *Forget
the refrigerator. *Even a more powerful generator would use more gas to
keep food in the fridge than it would be worth. *Better to get a couple
of plastic coolers and put the food outside during the outage. *Consider
any frozen food as lost (unless it is below zero outside). *For lights,
get an inverter and a couple of deep cycle batteries. *This arrangement
would give you lights for almost a week if you are careful.

* * * * * * * * * ---MIKE---In the White Mountains of New Hampshire

* (44° 15' *N - Elevation 1580')

I have a 19.5 cu ft frige that pulls 120 watts, maybe 600 surge, 100w
of cfl= 400 watts, hows a frige an issue or a tv.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I havn't tried a fridge on 1000 watts. Might work, never know.

Startup draw may be too much for a 1KW generator.

For
power cuts in the winter, fuel based light is good, as it produces
heat.

And odorless,colorless,poinsonous CO gas.
In a winter situation,indoor use is not a good idea.

Candles, oil lamps, camping mantle lanterns, and so on. 1000
watts will run most furnaces for heat. But not for AC. Food outside in
the cold is good idea.

Use snow in a insulated cooler.don't just leave food outside to keep
cold;sunlight will heat it up.


one more thing to consider is carbon monoxide poisoning.You need a CO alarm
in your apartment,if you're going to be using a generator near it.

I used a 12V/20AH gel cell to power flourescent lights for 7 days back in
2004 after Hurricane Charley,but that was August and 90 degF temps.
I powered a 12V flourescent like they sell for closets,powered by 8 AA
cells,but has a jack for external power,I had made up a cable well before
the outage.I also powered a pair of 12V fans salvaged from PC power
supplies to keep a breeze going over me at night,so I could sleep in the
90degF heat.

You can charge them from your car's system,and get a 12V cellphone
charger,too.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Dec 20, 7:20*pm, wrote:
ransley wrote:
Where would you run a gen that is at least 15 feet away, where
hopefully no Co enters your home and it wouldnt get stolen at the
complex. Neighbors might just say fumes bother them since they are out
of power. The quiet Honda inverter is expensive, if you have a porch
it might work, but it could easily poison you even with windows and
doors closed.

Hmmmm... agree

That's kind of why I didn't want a gas engine powered
solution.... the potential CO problem

But..... what abt deep discharge batteries? Wont they
give off fumes if in the house as well? Must they be
outside as well?

Batteries would be good for 12v RV flourescent lights and thats about
it, unless you spend 1-2000, now figure the cost to maintain them,
maybe 20-40 a month, and an inverter. If its just lights ok

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote:


wrote in message

But would a 1000 watt Honda unit suffice? Its abt all I
could afford right now..... and also have good
portability
-snip-
1000 watts (8.3 amps) will run any refrigerator, freezer, but probably not a
furnace or boiler.

I'm not so sure. My refrigerator draws 4-500watts but the starting
surge is over 1100. My furnace is similar, but the initial surge
for the pump is about 1200--- when the fan kicks in it jumps to 1300
for a second. I have an energy star freezer that doesn't cool
food fast-- but it only draws 2-300 watts. [I couldn't catch it
starting- wish there was a high/low memory on the kil-o-watt meter]

All these were measured with a Kil-o-wat meter last week. [the
dishwasher comes in at 1200watts.g]

There's a wild-ass guess chart here-- your appliances are sure to be
different;
http://www.geocities.com/abcreliefli...ctric_load.htm

And no matter how well you plan it- you'll be outside congratulating
yourself on how you switched off the furnace to run a load of dishes-
and come back inside to see your wife drying her hair with a hairdryer
while a pot of coffee runs through the electric drip machine. The
5500 watt generator was ok with it. [but not when I forgot and
tried to pop some popcorn in the microwave]

Plenty of room for lighting, TV, cable box, computer,
and the like. If all you need is a reading light, batteries are OK. I have
a couple of kerosene lamps, but they can be a danger with pets or kids. In
my life, I've only ever had one power failure of any length, about 30 hours
after a hurricane. Given that record I've not justified a generator.

I wouldn't trade you my ice storms for your hurricanes-- but I've
managed to lose power for a week several times in my life. 2 days
used to be routine- but this past outage this week is the first time
we've lost power in some time.

But I'm old, and I could- so I bought a generator this time around.
It's 5500 watts- 8250 surge- so aside from the hum in the background
power outages don't change our routine much.

Jim

On Dec 20, 7:22*pm, wrote:
Erma1ina wrote:
First, you must ask yourself EXACTLY what you want to power and
prioritize the importance of each. Only then will you be able to get
useful advice on how to generate the necessary power.

Personally, I believe a small Honda (I own an EU2000i) MAY be the most
simple, reliable, least hastle-prone solution (it was for me) but NOONE
will be able to give you good advice until YOU are able to identify your
needs and wants.

Agree

Well Id need to keep warm..... I guess that "could" be
a electric heater rather than trying to power gas
furnace... but then the amp draw would be tremendous.
Yes?

And would need 'some" light..... ability run small
microwave to cook with

Microwave?? get a portable gas stove, my furnace 87000 btu pulls 375
watts, maybe 800+ surge, old units use more. You have to test
everything with an amp meter and no guessing allowed, even know surge
load. A gen would work if you had a good place to set it up, and a
Honda EU nobody will hear, look at db ratings at Honda. And have a new
digital Co meter inside and check peak level often.

On Dec 20, 8:13*pm, wrote:
zxcvbob wrote:
How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? *It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. *Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? *(hopefully it's gas)

I don't know

The more advice I get about this the more I'm starting
to think that "bugging out" is better option..... that
is to pick a predetermined place to go and stay till
electricity comes back up

Maybe I should forget abt buying gear for staying put
(generator, etc)..... and instead buy gear for packing
up and hiking out (backpack, clothing, camp gear,
etc)??

What say?

Gas light, camping stove, battery tv.

"zxcvbob" wrote in message

How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? (hopefully it's gas)

Why not if you rent? Give me five minutes and the furnace will be running.
When power comes back, another five minutes and it is back on the grid. It
is a simple two wire setup. Google "wirenuts"

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"zxcvbob" wrote in message
How are you going to run the furnace since you rent? It's not like you
can rewire it for operation from an extension cord. Or are you going to
use the kitchen stove for heat? (hopefully it's gas)

Why not if you rent? Give me five minutes and the furnace will be running.
When power comes back, another five minutes and it is back on the grid. It
is a simple two wire setup. Google "wirenuts"



Sure, *you* can, you're old. ;-) The OP sounded kind of young to me;
not much experience.

Bob

a cheap harbor freight 2500 watt generator is probably best bet for
cheap infrequent use

batteries dont last but a few years.

A 1000 watt 1500 surge inverter with jumper cable connection to the
gals car would provide a rotating power source in a emergency. no fuel
storage, no noisey generator, useful on trips. cost around a 100
bucks

I have 3 generators, a 800 watt one, a 2500 watt one and a 4000 watt
fuel piggie.

but mostly we have used the 1000 watt inverter........

run off you vehicle with it idiling, provides power, no fuel storage,
no cranky hard to start infrequently used generator. inverters have
lots of advantages, just piuck the size you want. add jumper cables
for quick connection.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93280

We have used our inverter for trips, picnics where there is no power
etc.

had wonderful time with sno cone machine at a picnic grove with no
power. kids loved making sno cones

On Dec 20, 11:39*pm, " wrote:
run off you vehicle with it idiling, provides power, no fuel storage,
no cranky hard to start infrequently used generator. inverters have
lots of advantages, just piuck the size you want. add jumper cables
for quick connection.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93280

We have used our inverter for trips, picnics where there is no power
etc.

had wonderful time with sno cone machine at a picnic grove with no
power. kids loved making sno cones

At an apartment complex leave the keys in a running motor? Maybe in a
gated, guarded complex. What about alternator life, or the car looses
coolant. I would not do it for more than a few minutes to get heat
with my car.

I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

Wow; a lot of responses, some good, some well, not so.

Basically IMO it depends on what you need and how long an outage you
want to plan for.
As long as it's only a little light, the radio & maybe small TV, you
would be fine with 12V devices. If you need to continue life as though
the power weren't out, neither solutio would help unless it was a good
sized genset.

If you have to provide heat (freezing weather or colder) or air
conditioning, use anything that draws substantial current (any large
item; refrigerator, freezer full of meat, microwave, toaster, lots of
lights and gosh knows what, you should work out the wattage you need by
adding those all up according to what's on the nameplates, and get a
generator of at least that much capability, which may top 3,000 watts
worse case.
In a way, living alone adds additional btu requirements since there
aren't others there to contribute body heat either.

IMO if you don't have to worry about refrigerators, freezers, furnaces,
air conditioners, you'd be fine with batteries; just check how long they
last at the loads you'll place on them and go from there.
Oh, and if you have well water, you'd have something else to power,
too.

We have a 5,000 Wat generator and it will run our well pump, fridge and
freezer and a few lights all at once. But usually we kill the
regrigerator/freezer to run the well pump just to keep the generator
from being overly taxed; everything on makes it work really hard should
they all demand power at the same time.
There's a transfer switch: Start the genset and flick the switch, and
it turns on the house power thru its own set of breakers. So be sure to
add a Transfer Switch to the cost if you fo the generator route.
They're arond $100 plus installation which you'd need permission from
the owner to do.
In the overall, batteriy power it best if it can give you enough to
do the things you need to do for as long as the longest period of time
you think you'll need it.
Hmm, maybe a battery system and a small genset to charge the battery
system if it's needed? Nothing to install that way; just plug the
battery chargers nto the genset when you need to charge it. No transwer
switch, no installation.

HTH

Twayne

Twayne wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

Wow; a lot of responses, some good, some well, not so.

Basically IMO it depends on what you need and how long an outage you
want to plan for.
As long as it's only a little light, the radio & maybe small TV, you
would be fine with 12V devices. If you need to continue life as though
the power weren't out, neither solutio would help unless it was a good
sized genset.

If you have to provide heat (freezing weather or colder) or air
conditioning, use anything that draws substantial current (any large
item; refrigerator, freezer full of meat, microwave, toaster, lots of
lights and gosh knows what, you should work out the wattage you need by
adding those all up according to what's on the nameplates, and get a
generator of at least that much capability, which may top 3,000 watts
worse case.
In a way, living alone adds additional btu requirements since there
aren't others there to contribute body heat either.

IMO if you don't have to worry about refrigerators, freezers, furnaces,
air conditioners, you'd be fine with batteries; just check how long they
last at the loads you'll place on them and go from there.
Oh, and if you have well water, you'd have something else to power,
too.

We have a 5,000 Wat generator and it will run our well pump, fridge and
freezer and a few lights all at once. But usually we kill the
regrigerator/freezer to run the well pump just to keep the generator
from being overly taxed; everything on makes it work really hard should
they all demand power at the same time.
There's a transfer switch: Start the genset and flick the switch, and
it turns on the house power thru its own set of breakers. So be sure to
add a Transfer Switch to the cost if you fo the generator route.
They're arond $100 plus installation which you'd need permission from
the owner to do.
In the overall, batteriy power it best if it can give you enough to
do the things you need to do for as long as the longest period of time
you think you'll need it.
Hmm, maybe a battery system and a small genset to charge the battery
system if it's needed? Nothing to install that way; just plug the
battery chargers nto the genset when you need to charge it. No transwer
switch, no installation.

HTH

Twayne





Instead of a transfer switch, you can just drag a couple of heavy-duty
extension cords with triple taps around (plug your light-duty cords into
that). It work pretty well, actually.

Bob

On Dec 20, 3:28 pm, wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)
I've had a 1500 W generator for 40 yrs. Is a Craftsman w/ tecumshe
1.5 Hp engine, It will run refrigerator or freezer and enough extra
for a light or two.
Also good enough for a hot plate.. So something in that line I would
suggest.

Twayne wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)

Wow; a lot of responses, some good, some well, not so.

Basically IMO it depends on what you need and how long an outage you
want to plan for.
As long as it's only a little light, the radio & maybe small TV,
you would be fine with 12V devices. If you need to continue life as
though the power weren't out, neither solutio would help unless it
was a good sized genset.

If you have to provide heat (freezing weather or colder) or air
conditioning, use anything that draws substantial current (any large
item; refrigerator, freezer full of meat, microwave, toaster, lots of
lights and gosh knows what, you should work out the wattage you need
by adding those all up according to what's on the nameplates, and
get a generator of at least that much capability, which may top
3,000 watts worse case.
In a way, living alone adds additional btu requirements since
there aren't others there to contribute body heat either.

IMO if you don't have to worry about refrigerators, freezers,
furnaces, air conditioners, you'd be fine with batteries; just check
how long they last at the loads you'll place on them and go from
there. Oh, and if you have well water, you'd have something else
to power, too.

We have a 5,000 Wat generator and it will run our well pump, fridge
and freezer and a few lights all at once. But usually we kill the
regrigerator/freezer to run the well pump just to keep the generator
from being overly taxed; everything on makes it work really hard
should they all demand power at the same time.
There's a transfer switch: Start the genset and flick the switch,
and it turns on the house power thru its own set of breakers. So be
sure to add a Transfer Switch to the cost if you fo the generator
route. They're arond $100 plus installation which you'd need
permission from the owner to do.
In the overall, batteriy power it best if it can give you enough
to do the things you need to do for as long as the longest period of
time you think you'll need it.
Hmm, maybe a battery system and a small genset to charge the
battery system if it's needed? Nothing to install that way; just
plug the battery chargers nto the genset when you need to charge it.
No transwer switch, no installation.

HTH

Twayne





Instead of a transfer switch, you can just drag a couple of heavy-duty
extension cords with triple taps around (plug your light-duty cords
into that). It work pretty well, actually.

Bob

Yes, that will work as described for anything with a plug. In fact it's
how I handled it until I could get the transfer switch installed.
Can't close the doors or windows the cords come in thru though, and
often exposes an opening for CO to come in. A CO detector would help
there. Quite a nuisance if you had to do it very often as we do areund
here, but perfectly workable if it's OK with the user.

Twayne

I have a lamp cord with a lighter plug on each end. One goes into the
vehicle, other one to the jump pack. By the time I get home from some where,
the jumper pack is recharged.

If you don't need to haul it around, trolling bateries are far better amps
for the bucks.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 19:14:24 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"

A normal "jump start
battery is 12 to 22 AH. When it's dead, you are out of power unless
you have a generator to recharge it.
A pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries (GC2H) is about 225 AH - an
average trolling motoer battery somewhere around 100AH.. That is
1.2kwh - equivalent to running the 1000 watt Honda for 1.2 hours.

The generator is a lot more flexible - particularly the inverter type
"E" series Hondas which throttle to provide only the amount of power
being drawn - unlike a normal AC generator that needs to run at a
fixed speed regardless of load.
Just make sure you have gasoline available, or it is as useless as a
dead battery.

Some people lack horse sense. Or, have no concept of how wiring works. I've
met a LOT of people who don't know much about wiring. I make a living doing
wiring for them.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

Why not if you rent? Give me five minutes and the furnace will be running.
When power comes back, another five minutes and it is back on the grid. It
is a simple two wire setup. Google "wirenuts"

If you do not install a transfer switch, then make absolutely sure that
you disconnect the main breaker before powering up your generator
system. If you don't do this you really can seriously injure/kill a
lineman with the electricity that can be fed back out to the line.

Any utility I have ever dealt with required a transfer switch for a home
generator.

EJ in NJ

Twayne wrote:
Twayne wrote:
I live in north Missouri where ice storms can readily
happen..... and knock power out

I also live alone and in rented duplex....so my needs
for power are smaller and require more portability than
others.

Having said that... I'm wondering if buying a small
Honda generator and 120 volt devices is better than say
getting jump start batteries and using them with 12volt
devices (lights, etc)
Wow; a lot of responses, some good, some well, not so.

Basically IMO it depends on what you need and how long an outage you
want to plan for.
As long as it's only a little light, the radio & maybe small TV,
you would be fine with 12V devices. If you need to continue life as
though the power weren't out, neither solutio would help unless it
was a good sized genset.

If you have to provide heat (freezing weather or colder) or air
conditioning, use anything that draws substantial current (any large
item; refrigerator, freezer full of meat, microwave, toaster, lots of
lights and gosh knows what, you should work out the wattage you need
by adding those all up according to what's on the nameplates, and
get a generator of at least that much capability, which may top
3,000 watts worse case.
In a way, living alone adds additional btu requirements since
there aren't others there to contribute body heat either.

IMO if you don't have to worry about refrigerators, freezers,
furnaces, air conditioners, you'd be fine with batteries; just check
how long they last at the loads you'll place on them and go from
there. Oh, and if you have well water, you'd have something else
to power, too.

We have a 5,000 Wat generator and it will run our well pump, fridge
and freezer and a few lights all at once. But usually we kill the
regrigerator/freezer to run the well pump just to keep the generator
from being overly taxed; everything on makes it work really hard
should they all demand power at the same time.
There's a transfer switch: Start the genset and flick the switch,
and it turns on the house power thru its own set of breakers. So be
sure to add a Transfer Switch to the cost if you fo the generator
route. They're arond $100 plus installation which you'd need
permission from the owner to do.
In the overall, batteriy power it best if it can give you enough
to do the things you need to do for as long as the longest period of
time you think you'll need it.
Hmm, maybe a battery system and a small genset to charge the
battery system if it's needed? Nothing to install that way; just
plug the battery chargers nto the genset when you need to charge it.
No transwer switch, no installation.

HTH

Twayne




Instead of a transfer switch, you can just drag a couple of heavy-duty
extension cords with triple taps around (plug your light-duty cords
into that). It work pretty well, actually.

Bob

Yes, that will work as described for anything with a plug. In fact it's
how I handled it until I could get the transfer switch installed.
Can't close the doors or windows the cords come in thru though, and
often exposes an opening for CO to come in. A CO detector would help
there. Quite a nuisance if you had to do it very often as we do areund
here, but perfectly workable if it's OK with the user.

Twayne