I would rather not pour concrete. Is there anything else I
can use to fill in the hole around the shower drain pipe
shown in the photos at site
http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/showerdrain ? Any other
suggestions for remedying this as professionally as
possible?

The (Aqua Glass) shower pan cracked so I am replacing it.
The main cause seems to be simply that the floor beneath it
was neither solid nor level.

Why not use concrete? It's cheap, simple to mix a bag or two in a plastic
tub, and it will work fine.

If you really can't use concrete for some reason then I'm sure you could use
3 part epoxy floorpatch,( resin, hardener, and sand) we use that at work to
patch warehouse floors that stand up to forklift traffic, but why spend a
fair amount of extra money for something when the cheap simple solution
would do fine?

--
Mike S.
"Elle" wrote in message
...
I would rather not pour concrete. Is there anything else I can use to fill
in the hole around the shower drain pipe shown in the photos at site
http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/showerdrain ? Any other suggestions
for remedying this as professionally as possible?

The (Aqua Glass) shower pan cracked so I am replacing it. The main cause
seems to be simply that the floor beneath it was neither solid nor level.

On Dec 4, 1:03*pm, "Elle" wrote:
I would rather not pour concrete. Is there anything else I
can use to fill in the hole around the shower drain pipe
shown in the photos at sitehttp://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/showerdrain? Any other
suggestions for remedying this as professionally as
possible?

The (Aqua Glass) shower pan cracked so I am replacing it.
The main cause seems to be simply that the floor beneath it
was neither solid nor level.

Any hard floor leveler, such as Jiff Set, but concrete is still
cheaper.

JK

On Dec 4, 1:03*pm, "Elle" wrote:

I would rather not pour concrete.

Get over it. Nothing else will perform as well for the price.
After you get a grip, take the time to plan what you need and you
won't feel overwhelmed by the task. For openers, the better materials
are premixed, like Sakcrete. The bag sizes vary from store to store,
so go look at some and note the weight (can you deal with an 80 lb.
bag, for example?). Note the volume, so you can calculate what you
need. Look at mixing containers, such as large plastic tubs (kitty
litter box, maybe) or even the small mortar or drywall mud mixing
containers with convenient sloping sides. See the short handled hoes
that are used with the mixing box. Look at trowels, scoops, stuff like
that. Consider firming up your substrate with serious tamping. Cheap
tamping tools can be had if you can't improvise. For a large volume
concrete mix would serve well, allowed to cure and topped off to
smoothness by mason mix. Or all mason mix for a small volume. Plan
ahead as to where you want to clean your equipment for later use. A
remote part of the yard or garden is good, Have a bucket of water
handy for mopping up, etc. Ask around and see if there isn't a friend
or two that has some familiarity with projects like this.
You can do it, so have at it and enjoy the results. Good luck.

Joe

Mike, Jake, and Joe, you all are right. I am over it and
will give the concrete a shot weekend. Thank you for the
input.

The cement mixing and pouring went fine. I used something
called mortar "quikcrete" which we had laying around. I
leveled the new cement with a 2x4 and then water cured it
per the packaging directions, but then it seems to have
swelled noticeably while drying in the last 24 hours. The
new cement is no longer even with the surrounding edge. I
pre-fitted the shower base and I get a big of ponding. Is
there some kind of sander I could use to level the cement a
bit?

Pardon if these are naive questions. Making progress here;
learning things useful. :-)