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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?

I have had a Regency, B-vent, freestanding fireplace with gas logs running
on city propane for 12 years and now want to convert it to a ventless/vent
free log set. The problem with ordering new vent-free gas logs is that my
existing firebox is so darn small, in size like 21"W x 10"D x 9"H. Other
than the obvious difference in venting, and the inclusion of an oxygen
depletion sensor (ODS), what else is different about the log sets? burners?
I guess my question is this, can I just add an ODS type pilot system to my
current gas logs or do I need to buy a different set of logs that will fit?

Chuck

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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?


"Chuck" wrote in message
news:ao%Uk.441983$yE1.64606@attbi_s21...
I have had a Regency, B-vent, freestanding fireplace with gas logs running
on city propane for 12 years and now want to convert it to a ventless/vent
free log set. The problem with ordering new vent-free gas logs is that my
existing firebox is so darn small, in size like 21"W x 10"D x 9"H. Other
than the obvious difference in venting, and the inclusion of an oxygen
depletion sensor (ODS), what else is different about the log sets? burners?
I guess my question is this, can I just add an ODS type pilot system to my
current gas logs or do I need to buy a different set of logs that will fit?

Chuck

No ideas???????

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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?

On Nov 25, 9:22*pm, "Chuck" wrote:
No ideas???????


Nobody knows what the hell you are talking about.
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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?


wrote in message
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On Nov 25, 9:22 pm, "Chuck" wrote:
No ideas???????


Nobody knows what the hell you are talking about.

Oh. I didn't think it was that confusing. I have a functional, but
non-efficient "B-Vent" (requires its own flue or chimney) style flue gas
stove that I want to somehow try to convert to an energy-efficient (almost
99%) "vent-less/vent-free" heater/stove. What I am trying to determine is
how to do this safely. I want to totally close off my existing flue and
capture 100% of the heat just as if it were a vent-less model. The only
difference I can see between the two models is that the ventless models are
required to come with a special oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) as part of the
pilot flame apparatus. I was going to replace my gas logs but instead I
have cleaned my stove, blocked the flue, removed the glass front door, have
run the stove, smell no gas fumes, and constantly monitor the CO with a
detector which reads zero. Anything wrong with this setup?

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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?

I want to totally close off my existing flue and
capture 100% of the heat just as if it were a vent-less model. *The only
difference I can see between the two models is that the ventless models are
required to come with a special oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) as part of the
pilot flame apparatus. *I was going to replace my gas logs but instead I
have cleaned my stove, blocked the flue, removed the glass front door, have
run the stove, smell no gas fumes, and constantly monitor the CO with a
detector which reads zero. *Anything wrong with this setup?


CO (carbon monoxide) is produced where there is not enough air for complete combustion. Where there *is* enough air for complete combustion (which seems to be the case with your gas stove), CO2 (carbon dioxide) is produced instead, which your CO monitor might not be sensing.
The danger in this situation is that CO2 could displace enough normal air that you just might not wake up some morning. Your house might be drafty enough that in the *short term* you might never get a dangerous build-up of CO2. But really, I would hate to think that someone turned into a vegetable when I could have warned him.
At an RV place you could probably get a thru-the-wall venting type of a heater that would keep one room more comfortable if that's what you want. A High Efficiency gas furnace (over 90%) that is meant for a whole house still has a vent, even though its a 2" plastic one. It operates in a fairly air-tight room of its own, with a combustion air inlet and a fan-boosted outlet to get rid of the carbon dioxide and water vapor.





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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?

Chuck wrote:
I have had a Regency, B-vent, freestanding fireplace with gas logs
running on city propane for 12 years and now want to convert it to a
ventless/vent free log set. The problem with ordering new vent-free gas
logs is that my existing firebox is so darn small, in size like 21"W x
10"D x 9"H. Other than the obvious difference in venting, and the
inclusion of an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS), what else is different
about the log sets? burners? I guess my question is this, can I just add
an ODS type pilot system to my current gas logs or do I need to buy a
different set of logs that will fit?

Chuck



Ok. I found your original question from November 19, 2008. I do not believe you
can convert them. Not only are the sensors different, but I believe the burners
are also different.

Vanguard sells 18 inch logs and Peterson sells 16 inch vent free.

Hope this helps.

Chris
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Default Converting B-vent to Vent Free?


"Lookingup" wrote in message
...
I want to totally close off my existing flue and
capture 100% of the heat just as if it were a vent-less model. The only
difference I can see between the two models is that the ventless models
are
required to come with a special oxygen depletion sensor (ODS) as part of
the
pilot flame apparatus. I was going to replace my gas logs but instead I
have cleaned my stove, blocked the flue, removed the glass front door,
have
run the stove, smell no gas fumes, and constantly monitor the CO with a
detector which reads zero. Anything wrong with this setup?


CO (carbon monoxide) is produced where there is not enough air for
complete combustion. Where there *is* enough air for complete combustion
(which seems to be the case with your gas stove), CO2 (carbon dioxide) is
produced instead, which your CO monitor might not be sensing.
The danger in this situation is that CO2 could displace enough normal air
that you just might not wake up some morning. Your house might be drafty
enough that in the *short term* you might never get a dangerous build-up
of CO2. But really, I would hate to think that someone turned into a
vegetable when I could have warned him.
At an RV place you could probably get a thru-the-wall venting type of a
heater that would keep one room more comfortable if that's what you want.
A High Efficiency gas furnace (over 90%) that is meant for a whole house
still has a vent, even though its a 2" plastic one. It operates in a
fairly air-tight room of its own, with a combustion air inlet and a
fan-boosted outlet to get rid of the carbon dioxide and water vapor.


Thanks for the heads up. I am still monitoring things constantly and dont
use it at night. I dont see any difference in the gas burners themselves.
Nice blue flames with nice orange tips. No smell, plenty of heat.


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