Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex enamel.
The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I primed it
with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two layers of
existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were areas
that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking. Brush
marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic brush. I
even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint using
the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently, including
stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This paint is too
expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.

TIA,
James

--
Replies to: zookini 33 at hot mail dot com

James Harvey wrote:

Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex
enamel. The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I
primed it with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two
layers of existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were
areas that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking.
Brush marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic
brush. I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint
using the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently,
including stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This
paint is too expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.

Kilz has so many solids that it's hard to put on smoothly. That could
be the source of your problem.

Brush marks and splotching usually come from paint that's too thick or
that dries to quickly.

Let the new paint dry thoroughly, then sand it with fine sandpaper to
get rid of existing brush marks.

Use Floetrol (or a competing brand) to thin the paint and make it dry
more slowly. This gives the paint time to level.

Paint the door horizontally on sawhorses so gravity helps level the
paint.

Keep a wet edge. Start at one end and work to the other. If you let the
paint in one spot get partly dry, work somewhere else, and come back to
the first spot, the paint there has partly dried. Dragging the brush
over partially dried paint disrupts the surface and makes _very_
obvious marks.

The best way to avoid brush marks is to spray.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

Same problem I had when I moved in and painted. Apparently, the
paint dried too fast, some areas too much paint. This was the first
home I owned, and I've never painted before. My life is pretty much
a desk and a spreadsheet, so handy I'm not.




On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 04:03:28 +0000 (UTC), "SteveBell"
wrote:

James Harvey wrote:

Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex
enamel. The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I
primed it with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two
layers of existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were
areas that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking.
Brush marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic
brush. I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint
using the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently,
including stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This
paint is too expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.

Kilz has so many solids that it's hard to put on smoothly. That could
be the source of your problem.

Brush marks and splotching usually come from paint that's too thick or
that dries to quickly.

Let the new paint dry thoroughly, then sand it with fine sandpaper to
get rid of existing brush marks.

Use Floetrol (or a competing brand) to thin the paint and make it dry
more slowly. This gives the paint time to level.

Paint the door horizontally on sawhorses so gravity helps level the
paint.

Keep a wet edge. Start at one end and work to the other. If you let the
paint in one spot get partly dry, work somewhere else, and come back to
the first spot, the paint there has partly dried. Dragging the brush
over partially dried paint disrupts the surface and makes _very_
obvious marks.

The best way to avoid brush marks is to spray.

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

James Harvey wrote:

Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex
enamel. The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I
primed it with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two
layers of existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were
areas that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking.
Brush marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic
brush. I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint
using the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently,
including stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This
paint is too expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.

Kilz has so many solids that it's hard to put on smoothly. That could
be the source of your problem.

Brush marks and splotching usually come from paint that's too thick or
that dries to quickly.

Let the new paint dry thoroughly, then sand it with fine sandpaper to
get rid of existing brush marks.

Use Floetrol (or a competing brand) to thin the paint and make it dry
more slowly. This gives the paint time to level.

Paint the door horizontally on sawhorses so gravity helps level the
paint.

Keep a wet edge. Start at one end and work to the other. If you let the
paint in one spot get partly dry, work somewhere else, and come back to
the first spot, the paint there has partly dried. Dragging the brush
over partially dried paint disrupts the surface and makes _very_
obvious marks.

The best way to avoid brush marks is to spray.

Thanks for the advice. I tried some Floetrol and it does help. This
paint does have some kind of stubbornly fast drying agent, so I will
probably have to add a little more than the recommended amount.

Sanding enamel to remove brush marks is a real pain, though, even with a
belt sander to speed things up. And using a belt sander tends to heat
the old paint and make it rubbery. Using plain sandpaper is guaranteed
to take years off your life sigh.

I am really tempted to do a chemical strip and start over. I don't have
unlimited time to keep experimenting and no one is paying me to do this.

BTW, I see you're based in Arlington and I live in Dallas. I may have a
painting job for you.

--
Replies to: zookini 33 at hot mail dot com

"SteveBell" wrote in
:

James Harvey wrote:

Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex
enamel. The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I
primed it with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two
layers of existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were
areas that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking.
Brush marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic
brush. I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint
using the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently,
including stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This
paint is too expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.

Kilz has so many solids that it's hard to put on smoothly. That could
be the source of your problem.

If I want a decent finish on anything I prime with Kilz, once dry, I'll
go over it lightly with a medium or fine sanding sponge; otherwise, it
will end up with a more rough finish. Really makes a difference IMO.


Brush marks and splotching usually come from paint that's too thick or
that dries to quickly.

Let the new paint dry thoroughly, then sand it with fine sandpaper to
get rid of existing brush marks.

Use Floetrol (or a competing brand) to thin the paint and make it dry
more slowly. This gives the paint time to level.

Paint the door horizontally on sawhorses so gravity helps level the
paint.

Keep a wet edge. Start at one end and work to the other. If you let the
paint in one spot get partly dry, work somewhere else, and come back to
the first spot, the paint there has partly dried. Dragging the brush
over partially dried paint disrupts the surface and makes _very_
obvious marks.

The best way to avoid brush marks is to spray.

James Harvey wrote:
Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex enamel.
The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I primed it
with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two layers of
existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were areas
that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking. Brush
marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic brush.
I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.


Similar thing he I was painting some trim with Behr Premium after a
quality primer. I used a top quality brush, a sponge brush, and a roller. In
all cases the result looked like it was painted with a fork.

So I went to a Sherwin-Williams store and got some oil-based paint (HD
doesn't sell oil-based high-gloss). The results were perfect.

James Harvey wrote:

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:



James Harvey wrote:



Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex
enamel. The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I
primed it with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two
layers of existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were
areas that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking.
Brush marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic
brush. I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.

I did paint another door that had only one layer of existing paint
using the same primer, paint, and brush, and it looks great.

I would appreciate any advice on what I could do differently,
including stripping the old paint if that sounds necessary. This
paint is too expensive to be wasting it on trial-and-error.


Kilz has so many solids that it's hard to put on smoothly. That could
be the source of your problem.

Brush marks and splotching usually come from paint that's too thick or
that dries to quickly.

Let the new paint dry thoroughly, then sand it with fine sandpaper to
get rid of existing brush marks.

Use Floetrol (or a competing brand) to thin the paint and make it dry
more slowly. This gives the paint time to level.

Paint the door horizontally on sawhorses so gravity helps level the
paint.

Keep a wet edge. Start at one end and work to the other. If you let the
paint in one spot get partly dry, work somewhere else, and come back to
the first spot, the paint there has partly dried. Dragging the brush
over partially dried paint disrupts the surface and makes _very_
obvious marks.

The best way to avoid brush marks is to spray.



Thanks for the advice. I tried some Floetrol and it does help. This
paint does have some kind of stubbornly fast drying agent, so I will
probably have to add a little more than the recommended amount.


Floetrol and Penetrol are great for thinning and levelling. Don't do
more than label advises. I use
the one for alkyd paint for spraying and it works like a charm - use
little Preval sprayers for
louvered doors but the spray pattern is a bit small for a regular door.
It would work nicely if
done right - for louvered doors, I kept a foam brush wrung out in
mineral spirits to catch occ.
drips and runs before they set. If the door was laid flat, it would
probably work nicely.

Sanding enamel to remove brush marks is a real pain, though, even with a
belt sander to speed things up. And using a belt sander tends to heat
the old paint and make it rubbery. Using plain sandpaper is guaranteed
to take years off your life sigh.


This is the reason I use only alkyd semi-gloss for doors and trim. Bath
and kitchen walls and
ceilings as well. The blotchiness of your finish could be a result of
not mixing the paint
sufficiently immediately prior to each use. If you did some patching or
filling without priming it
could also cause blotches.

I am really tempted to do a chemical strip and start over. I don't have
unlimited time to keep experimenting and no one is paying me to do this.

BTW, I see you're based in Arlington and I live in Dallas. I may have a
painting job for you.

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

James Harvey wrote:
Hello,

I am repainting a door with Behr Premium Plus Semi Gloss latex enamel.
The door was originally painted with semigloss latex but I primed it
with Kilz 2 latex anyway. There were probably at least two layers of
existing paint.

When the paint dried it looked awful, in my opinion. There were areas
that were glossy and others that were somewhat flat-looking. Brush
marks were prominent even tho I used a good quality synthetic brush.
I even tried a second coat to no avail. The paint was mixed
thoroughly.


Similar thing he I was painting some trim with Behr Premium after a
quality primer. I used a top quality brush, a sponge brush, and a roller. In
all cases the result looked like it was painted with a fork.

So I went to a Sherwin-Williams store and got some oil-based paint (HD
doesn't sell oil-based high-gloss). The results were perfect.

I did use oil-based paint on a trial basis and it looked great.
However, the cost and pain of using hazardous cleanup chemicals and
disposing of the resultant waste convinced me to move to latex, besides
the fact that Behr had the exact color mix I needed.

--
Replies to: zookini 33 at hot mail dot com

In article ,
Norminn wrote:



Floetrol and Penetrol are great for thinning and levelling. Don't do
more than label advises. I use
the one for alkyd paint for spraying and it works like a charm - use
little Preval sprayers for
louvered doors but the spray pattern is a bit small for a regular door.
It would work nicely if
done right - for louvered doors, I kept a foam brush wrung out in
mineral spirits to catch occ.
drips and runs before they set. If the door was laid flat, it would
probably work nicely.



This is the reason I use only alkyd semi-gloss for doors and trim. Bath
and kitchen walls and
ceilings as well. The blotchiness of your finish could be a result of
not mixing the paint
sufficiently immediately prior to each use. If you did some patching or
filling without priming it
could also cause blotches.


Thanks for the advice.

--
Replies to: zookini 33 at hot mail dot com

James Harvey wrote:
So I went to a Sherwin-Williams store and got some oil-based paint
(HD doesn't sell oil-based high-gloss). The results were perfect.

I did use oil-based paint on a trial basis and it looked great.
However, the cost and pain of using hazardous cleanup chemicals and
disposing of the resultant waste convinced me to move to latex,
besides the fact that Behr had the exact color mix I needed.

In reverse order:

* Just about anybody can match any color these days. Even Wal-mart has the
color-matching gizmo for their Dutch Boy and Kilz paints.

* There's nothing particularly hazardous about petroleum-based paints. If
you drink them, maybe, but that's probably also true for latex.

* There is more effort at clean-up, true, but there are tricks to help.
Don't clean up. Discard the brush and use plastic pails (or paint directly
from the can). There might be a soiled rag or two left over but those can be
left in an elementary school playground at night.

* Disposing of the resultant waste is easy too. Just pour the excess down
the storm drain. This actually helps the drain in that, for a small area, it
slickifies the drain making runoff more efficient. As an aside, putting lawn
clippings down the storm drain also helps by providing roughage, just like
in a human digestive system.

In article ,
"HeyBub" wrote:

James Harvey wrote:
So I went to a Sherwin-Williams store and got some oil-based paint
(HD doesn't sell oil-based high-gloss). The results were perfect.

I did use oil-based paint on a trial basis and it looked great.
However, the cost and pain of using hazardous cleanup chemicals and
disposing of the resultant waste convinced me to move to latex,
besides the fact that Behr had the exact color mix I needed.

In reverse order:

* Just about anybody can match any color these days. Even Wal-mart has the
color-matching gizmo for their Dutch Boy and Kilz paints.

* There's nothing particularly hazardous about petroleum-based paints. If
you drink them, maybe, but that's probably also true for latex.

* There is more effort at clean-up, true, but there are tricks to help.
Don't clean up. Discard the brush and use plastic pails (or paint directly
from the can). There might be a soiled rag or two left over but those can be
left in an elementary school playground at night.

* Disposing of the resultant waste is easy too. Just pour the excess down
the storm drain. This actually helps the drain in that, for a small area, it
slickifies the drain making runoff more efficient. As an aside, putting lawn
clippings down the storm drain also helps by providing roughage, just like
in a human digestive system.

Hah. That's (not so) funny. Bubba might take you seriously. There is
no shortage of people with arrested development issues. I think they
are called Republicans, or so I'm told .

--
Replies to: zookini 33 at hot mail dot com