I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...

Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Are you using a digital multimeter? 24V is too low for anything but
phantom voltage, unless you've got a really odd house that was wired up
with low voltage switches and relays (it's possible, I have heard of
such houses, but never actually seen one IRL.)

It sounds like you really are a beginner (and I don't mean that in a bad
way, everyone has to start somewhere) you should be reading 120VAC
between one of the black wires and either a white wire (neutral) or a
bare wire or the metal box (ground.) Make sure the meter is set on AC
volts and make sure you're measuring as I describe - one probe on the
black wire, one probe on neutral or ground.

If you get readings that still make you suspect the switch, kill the
power to the circuit, remove the switch and measure the resistance
between the two terminals. It should be infinite in the "off" position,
and essentially zero (less than one ohm) in the "on" position. If it
doesn't check out like that, replace it.

I'd recommend spending the extra ducats on a "spec grade" switch, it
will last a lot longer than a regular builder grade switch. Don't use
those awful push in from the back type wire connections either, always
use the screw clamps.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

The Postman wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...

I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!


A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...



This too. I'd make sure that the cord is AT LEAST 14AWG preferably
12AWG and as short as possible. most are 16AWG max.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Typically you'll have 120 volts at the switch, not 24. When you say
lever-action, what exactly do you mean? Some older installations around the
60's used low voltage (24 volt) momentary contact rocker switches, that
controlled latching relays for lighting and outlets. If this is the case,
it's possible that a relay is bad. It would help to have pictures as well

Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

If you are reading 24 volts at the switch, and you are sure you reading
the incoming power to the switch, then the incoming wire is "floating".
That is, connected to nothing. This would be the normal condition of a
wire from the switch to the outlet if nothing is connected to the outlet
and the switch is off. However there should be line voltage on the
supply side of the switch. It may be disconnected elsewhere, or the
breaker may be off. The purpose, by the way, of the switch and outlet is
to satisfy, in the cheapest way, the NEC requirement for either a light
fixture or switched outlet for a lamp in the room.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Steve" wrote in message

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).


My first suggestion is that you buy a book on basic home wiring. Switches
don't supply power. They make or break the circuit that is supplying the
power.

You should not have 24 volt in the system. It may be a defective switch,
but you may have a bad ground someplace also. Replacing a switch is fairly
easy and cheap so you may want to try that first. Be sure to kill any power
that may be feeding the circuit. If you have doubts, get knowledgeable
help.

"Steve" wrote in message
...
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.


As RBM suggested, 24 volts is too low for a normal 120 volt system, but it
is possible that you have a relay system in your house. The switches are
different looking from regular wall switches and can only handle the lower
voltage. If indeed you do have a low voltage relay system, next to your
fuse box or circuit breaker box you should have a large metal box with
several relays inside or protruding out the sides. There will also be two
kinds of wire; one bunch for low voltage and the normal 120 volt cables.

This is not an easy system to diagnose because you need to troubleshoot the
low voltage control system as well as the line voltage supply system. A
common problem with this system is one of the relays going bad. The trick
is to find the correct relay. Sometimes the original installer labeled
them. This system has been discussed in this group before so try doing a
Google search of this group. It would be helpful for us if you were able to
post some pictures of the switch and of your circuit breaker box.

On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 19:58:40 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:


Are you using a digital multimeter? 24V is too low for anything but
phantom voltage, unless you've got a really odd house that was wired up
with low voltage switches and relays (it's possible, I have heard of
such houses, but never actually seen one IRL.)


If the switch is a low voltage switch the wire will be noticeably
smaller than house wiring.

One way to test the switch is to just disconnect the two wires from
the switch and wire nut them together.

If the outlet works then you need another switch. If not, we need
more info.

On Aug 3, 9:45*pm, Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

Steve: This business of reading 'funny' voltages happens all the time
on this group and others.
Even the cheapest of the digital, hardware or big store meters are
sensitive enough to pick up stray induced voltages which can occur
when dead or unconnected wires run near live ones. The reading is
usually meaningless!
Much better to get a regular 120 volt lamp in a socket, 25 or 40 watts
will do. Test it first to make sure it is working.
Then connect one wire to the black wire to the switch and one wire to
the metal ground of the switch box. If it lights you have a live wire
from the fuse/breaker panel that far.
If not you have break somewhere between the 'fuse/circuit breaker'
panel and that point. Find out why ....... maybe the wiring goes
through other outlets before the switch. Maybe one of those is faulty;
or is there a GFI outlet upstream of the switch that has tripped?
Preferably get someon to help you; and make sure that extension cord
is not getting even warm to the touch. If so replace or switch it off
immediately. The thin wires in some of those are sometimes several
gauges smaller than the regular wall wiring to the outlet!
When you have done that reply or post to the news group for next step
of testing.
BTW you don't have bad circuit breaker feeding that circuit do you?
Also BTW those wall switches controlling an outlet were sometimes
installed to control bedside or table lamps; as in some hotel rooms.
Sometime they only controlled half the duplex outlet; the other half
was on all the time for a bedside TV, radio, electric powered phone
etc.

"metspitzer" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 19:58:40 -0400, Nate Nagel
wrote:


Are you using a digital multimeter? 24V is too low for anything but
phantom voltage, unless you've got a really odd house that was wired up
with low voltage switches and relays (it's possible, I have heard of
such houses, but never actually seen one IRL.)


If the switch is a low voltage switch the wire will be noticeably
smaller than house wiring.

One way to test the switch is to just disconnect the two wires from
the switch and wire nut them together.

If it's a low voltage switching system, there will be at least 3 wires on
the switches. Common- On-Off



If the outlet works then you need another switch. If not, we need
more info.

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Steve
wrote:

Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I sort of doubt you have any low voltage, but the other posts should
have helped you figure out whether you do or not.

Regardless, if you want, you can start with this post first.

Regardless of how many volts you are reading, nothing you wrote in
your post indicates you actually tested the switch.

First, where did you connect each wire of the meter?

One probe should be touching the metal box that the switch is in. That
is almost certainly grounded, and you want one probe to be touching
the ground. If actually testing still leaves doubts, post back.

Since the switch is out of the wall, you should have a good view of
both screws to which wires are attached.

Your second probe should be touching first one screw and later the
other, With one of the two screws, and the metal box for the other
probe, you should show 110 to 120 volts AC. If you don't show that,
flip the switch. and see if you get 110. If now you do, the switch is
working.

If you show 110 to begin with, flip the switch aanyhow. If
now you DON"T show 110, the switch is working. If you still show 110,
you have the probe on the "hot" contact of the switch, the one
connected to the wire that comes from the fusebox.


So now move the probe to the other screw. If the first screw was
always hot, this screw should be hot only when the switch is in one of
its two positions. If the first screw was hot
in only one position, then this screw should be hot all the time.

If one screw is hot all the time, and the other screw is never hot,
the switch is bad. Any other situation and you don't know whether
the swtich is bad or not.

I learned to go over this in detail last week by working with a friend
who has a Ph.D. in math and has an important job with a defense
contractor. But he still had not occasion to learn this basic stuff.

Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.


In addition to what others have said, the outlet may be the culprit. Often
outlets are wired with "stab-in" connections. Stab-in connectors are
notorious for making poor contact. If the outlet experiences a high load -
such as an air conditioner - the connection may fail and the outlet goes
dead, usually, though not always, quite dramatically.

In addition to your other diagnostics, replace the outlet. When you do, make
sure the wires are attached to the outlet with screw-down connections, not
the "stab-in" method.

P.S.
The short explanation of the 24volts you measured is this: The 24V reading
is meaningless. It neither confirms nor refutes the presence of power.

A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...



This too. I'd make sure that the cord is AT LEAST 14AWG preferably 12AWG
and as short as possible. most are 16AWG max.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

And this has helped the OP's problem how?

On Aug 4, 8:55*am, "Doug Brown" wrote:
A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...

This too. *I'd make sure that the cord is AT LEAST 14AWG preferably 12AWG
and as short as possible. *most are 16AWG max.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

And this has helped the OP's problem how?


um, by making him aware of a potential problem and a solution, before
his house catches on fire?

it was more helpful than *your* post, anyway.

nate

On Aug 4, 8:42*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
Steve wrote:
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

In addition to what others have said, the outlet may be the culprit. Often
outlets are wired with "stab-in" connections. Stab-in connectors are
notorious for making poor contact. If the outlet experiences a high load -
such as an air conditioner - the connection may fail and the outlet goes
dead, usually, though not always, quite dramatically.

In addition to your other diagnostics, replace the outlet. When you do, make
sure the wires are attached to the outlet with screw-down connections, not
the "stab-in" method.

P.S.
The short explanation of the 24volts you measured is this: The 24V reading
is meaningless. It neither confirms nor refutes the presence of power.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I'd say the short explanation is this. If you read 24 volts at wall
switch and think that's normal, then you should call an electrician
because there is an obvious lack of basic fundamentals, which puts the
safety of you and others in the house in jeopardy.

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 19:53:26 -0400, "The Postman" route23@pod wrote:

[snip]


A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...


Small (5000BTU) A/C uses less than 5A, so that wouldn't be a problem.
Of course that'd be different for a 16000BTU unit (maybe the largest
that uses 120V).
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:45:04 -0700 (PDT), Steve
wrote:

[snip]


I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement

Consider that you might not want a switch for that outlet. You can
always bypass it, and use a blank wall plate.

[snip]

BTW, Also, you might consider posting somewhere other than Google. A
lot of people have blocked googlegroups because of spam. There are
free news servers like aioe.org (no registration/login required,
although no binaries groups).
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

[snip]


This too. I'd make sure that the cord is AT LEAST 14AWG preferably
12AWG and as short as possible. most are 16AWG max.

nate

16AWG cords are marked for 13A, but I try to not use more than 10A
through it for more than a short time (because the wires get hot).

BTW, The little 5000BTU A/C I helped a friend install Thursday uses
4.7A. However, no extension cord was needed.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Sun, 03 Aug 2008 20:33:25 -0400, Claude Hopper
wrote:

[snip]

Nonsense. They make adequate grounded extension cords for this.

Even some cords with "leakage detection". Apparently, this thing that
looks like a GFCI is supposed to cut off if your dog chews on the
cord.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 22:37:56 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

[snip]


If it's a low voltage switching system, there will be at least 3 wires on
the switches. Common- On-Off


Don't they make toggle relays? Those would work with just 2 wires
(alternating on/off with each current pulse).

[snip]

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

"Claude Hopper" wrote in message
...
The Postman wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message
...
I don't know a lot about house wiring. My wife and I moved into a
house a couple of years ago and are essentially trying to learn as we
go.

We have an air conditioner in our bedroom. Next to the air conditioner
is a wall outlet, but the wall outlet is dead (both the top and bottom
receptacles) and we've had to power the air conditioner via a long
extension cord. It would be much better to be able to power the AC via
the outlet that's right next to it, but I'm not entirely sure what's
wrong with that outlet.

It looks to me like the outlet is powered by a lever-action wall
switch. This sort of arrangement is present in a couple of other rooms
in our house...and the wall switch doesn't seem to be powering
anything *else* at the moment. However, assuming this is correct, no
power is reaching the wall outlet, no matter what position the switch
is in. I know because I have tested it. Power *is* present at the wall
switch, though. I know because I pulled the switch out of the wall and
used a multimeter to see that there is 24 volts on it (well, 23.9 to
be exact).

I'm guessing that the lever-action switch is simply defective and in
need of replacement. However, is there something I ought to be looking
for or considering before I run out and buy a replacement switch? Any
thoughts and/or advice will be appreciated.

Thanks!

A/C on a "long extension cord" is a fire waiting to happen...
Nonsense. They make adequate grounded extension cords for this.

--
Claude Hopper ? 3 7/8

Sure glad I'm not YOUR homeowner's insurance carrier, Claudio....

"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 22:37:56 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

[snip]


If it's a low voltage switching system, there will be at least 3 wires on
the switches. Common- On-Off


Don't they make toggle relays? Those would work with just 2 wires
(alternating on/off with each current pulse).

[snip]

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Properly read, the Bible is the most potent
force for atheism ever conceived." -- Isaac Asimov

That's how a ratchet relay works, but this is a system designed by GE, and
uses cylindrical latching relays that have an on circuit and an off circuit