Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 16:45:10 -0400, albee wrote:

Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

A couple additional points: after shutting off the breaker and then
turning it back on, it goes to resumes to a seemingly normal state
where it says the current temp, which is of course higher than the set
one. And then at the point where I imagine it would kick in, instead
of saying 83, it goes to E2 and gives the error message. So it's
apparently when it's about to kcik in.
Oh, and guess what? It just kicked in! LOL.. Any thoughts?

"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage, which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
.. .
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage, which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:27:52 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
. ..
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage, which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

Isn't this fun! Yet more info! Okay, now it switched from E2 to the
current temp, and it occurred to me to switch the fan from Auto to
always On. So I did, and the Fan did kick on for about 10 seconds. And
then the E2 came up again. But I'm ALMOST sure that in the past the
fan hadn't yet kicked in when it occurred, though I could be wrong. If
so, would that point to a problem between the thermostat and the air
handler, or condenser and air handler, but only when the fan is going
to kick on automatically when the A/C is on, but that the signal is
fine from the thermostat to the air handler to tell it to turn on now?

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
. ..
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
m...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer. Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads are
applied... or call for service

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
om...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer. Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
m...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
news:q10v841ln82mlklig1p4gugopsbuj0an96@4ax. com...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer. Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!

Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
om...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
news:q10v841ln82mlklig1p4gugopsbuj0an96@4ax .com...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!

Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!

It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:14:43 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
m...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
news:cf2v845lub1qn1q2faa8sijsaqd6ee4mr7@4ax. com...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"albee" wrote in message
news:q10v841ln82mlklig1p4gugopsbuj0an96@4a x.com...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?

You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.


The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!

I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?

So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!

Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!

It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

I can't believe after replacing 3 of these (the last one myself) it
didn't occur to me right away... Jeez... Anyway, I cleaned off the
contacts and got it working for the night. It appears to have been the
contactor, which I'll replace tomorrow. THanks much.
BTW: I'm guessing that that explains the E2/low 24 v. code? Obviously,
if there's NONE, it's low. Would it also be the cause of intermittent
E2's? I hadn't noticed them increasing in frequency, as one (I
imagine) would expect.

albee wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:14:43 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?
You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.

The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!
I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?
So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!
Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!
It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

I can't believe after replacing 3 of these (the last one myself) it
didn't occur to me right away... Jeez... Anyway, I cleaned off the
contacts and got it working for the night. It appears to have been the
contactor, which I'll replace tomorrow. THanks much.
BTW: I'm guessing that that explains the E2/low 24 v. code? Obviously,
if there's NONE, it's low. Would it also be the cause of intermittent
E2's? I hadn't noticed them increasing in frequency, as one (I
imagine) would expect.

The low voltage could be caused by the
wrong tap connected on the input of
the low voltage transformer. If it's
a heat pump, the air handler may be fed
by a 208-240vac circuit and the 24 volt
transformer may be the type with a
primary winding for that voltage range.
The transformer will have two different
primary winding taps, one for 208 and
one for 240. Low voltage feeding the
coil of a contactor will keep it from
closing forcefully enough which will
cause the contacts to arc and burn. You
would notice a loud buzzing sound from
the contactor when the coil is powered.

[8~{} Uncle Monster

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 03:06:30 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

albee wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:14:43 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?
You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.

The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!
I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?
So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!
Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!
It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

I can't believe after replacing 3 of these (the last one myself) it
didn't occur to me right away... Jeez... Anyway, I cleaned off the
contacts and got it working for the night. It appears to have been the
contactor, which I'll replace tomorrow. THanks much.
BTW: I'm guessing that that explains the E2/low 24 v. code? Obviously,
if there's NONE, it's low. Would it also be the cause of intermittent
E2's? I hadn't noticed them increasing in frequency, as one (I
imagine) would expect.

The low voltage could be caused by the
wrong tap connected on the input of
the low voltage transformer. If it's
a heat pump, the air handler may be fed
by a 208-240vac circuit and the 24 volt
transformer may be the type with a
primary winding for that voltage range.
The transformer will have two different
primary winding taps, one for 208 and
one for 240. Low voltage feeding the
coil of a contactor will keep it from
closing forcefully enough which will
cause the contacts to arc and burn. You
would notice a loud buzzing sound from
the contactor when the coil is powered.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
Interesting... I do have a heat pump with mine. So do I understand it
correctly that 208v could be feeding the 240v winding tap of the
transformer, causing the quick burnouts of them? When I first
encountered this (changing the contactor yearly) it was suggested that
the a/c must be cycling on and off too quickly, though I didn't know
why it would. So I guess this would be an alternate explanation?
the buzzing, would it be a momentary one, just as it's powered, or
would it stay on? I haven't noticed it, but then, haven't listened
for it, either. Thanks much!

albee wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 03:06:30 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

albee wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:14:43 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?
You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.

The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!
I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?
So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!
Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!
It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

I can't believe after replacing 3 of these (the last one myself) it
didn't occur to me right away... Jeez... Anyway, I cleaned off the
contacts and got it working for the night. It appears to have been the
contactor, which I'll replace tomorrow. THanks much.
BTW: I'm guessing that that explains the E2/low 24 v. code? Obviously,
if there's NONE, it's low. Would it also be the cause of intermittent
E2's? I hadn't noticed them increasing in frequency, as one (I
imagine) would expect.
The low voltage could be caused by the
wrong tap connected on the input of
the low voltage transformer. If it's
a heat pump, the air handler may be fed
by a 208-240vac circuit and the 24 volt
transformer may be the type with a
primary winding for that voltage range.
The transformer will have two different
primary winding taps, one for 208 and
one for 240. Low voltage feeding the
coil of a contactor will keep it from
closing forcefully enough which will
cause the contacts to arc and burn. You
would notice a loud buzzing sound from
the contactor when the coil is powered.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
Interesting... I do have a heat pump with mine. So do I understand it
correctly that 208v could be feeding the 240v winding tap of the
transformer, causing the quick burnouts of them? When I first
encountered this (changing the contactor yearly) it was suggested that
the a/c must be cycling on and off too quickly, though I didn't know
why it would. So I guess this would be an alternate explanation?
the buzzing, would it be a momentary one, just as it's powered, or
would it stay on? I haven't noticed it, but then, haven't listened
for it, either. Thanks much!

Well, check it out and let us know. I hope you
have a means to check your voltage and current.
You can pick up inexpensive test equipment from
a Harbor Freight store if you have one in your
area. The big box stores and Radio Shack have a
more expensive selection.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...eter&Submit=Go

http://tinyurl.com/5phvcx

[8~{} Uncle Monster

On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 16:54:48 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

albee wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jul 2008 03:06:30 -0500, Uncle Monster
wrote:

albee wrote:
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 19:14:43 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:48:14 -0400, albee wrote:

On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 18:24:03 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:42:18 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 17:11:48 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"albee" wrote in message
...
Periodically, about 2-3 times a year, I notice an error code on our
thermostat, E2, which indicates a problem with the 24 v. power to
it.
But before I can even do anything, within an hour or so, it's
always
resolved itself. It's out again now, but this time I noticed that
it
coincided (I imagine) with a power "issue". I now recognize that
since
I have a UPS on my computers now, and heard it click. However, no
outage occurred in the rest of the house, so I imagine it was a
spike.
Anyway, I've re-set the circuit (though it wasn't tripped) that
gives
power to it, and it still says E2. Any thoughts on what it could
be,
or what normally happens that has resolved itself in the past?
You first need to know what the definition of an E2 error code is. If
your
UPS chirped you probably had a dip in voltage. If the line voltage to
the
transformer powering the thermostat is lowered, the secondary
voltage,
which
should be 24 volts, will decrease as well. Possibly the thermostat is
just
notifying you of that fact, then when the voltage is normal, it
resets.

The E2 says a problem with the 24 v. power, nothing more specific. I
don't KNOW that it's linked to the outages. In fact, I now recall
that
in the past it, at least sometimes, occurred while I was getting a
message that the filter needed changing. So then I thought it was the
pressure/resistance (know it's not correct technically) was causing
it. Well, today we came home with a new filter, and it was like that,
but I was changing it when it kicked on (I think after I powered it
off and then on), but regardless, I put the new filter in, and it
clicked off again. I wasn't home when this initially shut off this
time. I just know that we've had a lot of power drops lately. Now,
it's kicking in (I can here it "trigger" at the thermostat), but then
1-2 minutes later, I imagine when it's meant to actually send air
(the air handler is meant to kick in?), it shuts off and gives the E2
error again. So, fwiw, it appears that the thermostat is working in
that it acknowledges the temp is above the set temp, it sends a
signal
to start the air conditioner, the compressor kicks in and charges
the
system?(Okay, I have no idea if that terminology is right! and then
when the signal is sent to the air handler to blow the cooled air
through it shuts off again?
Does that sound like what's happening? If so, or not, any
suggesitons?
Thanks much!
I don't have enough info about the thermostat or the A/C system to
determine. Typical system will have a transformer in the blower unit
that
controls both the relay in the outside condensing unit and the inside
blower
unit. When you switch the stat to cool, it should send 24 volts to both
inside and outside units simultaneously and continuously until the room
temperature is satisfied. You may have a weak or undersized transformer

Interesting... thanks. So it sends it at the same time, "normally"?
We've always had a lag time between hearing the thermostat "click" and
the air start to blow.
Sorry for getting the specs to you all late:
Our system is a Carrier FV4ANF005
The condensing unit is: can't read it and get a hit on google.
A couple years ago, probably 3, I had to replace the blower motor, and
do recall that it was a variable motor - reportedly a big waste of
money, but that's what the original ower had been sold on, and what I
was told I had to replace it with.
The entire system was put in about 10 years ago. Aside from the blower
motor, I"ve had to replace/have replaced the contactor in the
condensing unit every year or two. As far as I know, everything else
is OEM.
The thermostat is a Carrier Auto Changeover one. I don't have a model
number, just reading off of some online documentation I once tracked
down, that based on the photo is what we have. ... ooh, I just looked
at doc's that I had found online for our thermostat, and it
specifically says at the end of them that an E2 reading means that
there is not enough voltage for the system to operate. Nothing new,
really, but confimation that it's not enough?
So, something is causing the voltage to decrease on the transformer.
Could
be any number of things from loose connection to a bad transformer. You
need
to hang a meter on the transformer and see what happens when the loads
are
applied... or call for service

Thanks much! Now I just need to find the transformer Will do, or
fortunately, I have a trusted (if he's still alive) A/C guy, and 1 day
before we go on vacation for 2 weeks! Thanks again!
Okay, another big DUH... I can't even recall the symptoms when the
contactor went out. Could it be that?!
It's possible. If the contactor is bad, the condenser won't start. Keep in
mind that the condenser may have a timing circuit in it to prevent it from
short cycling

I can't believe after replacing 3 of these (the last one myself) it
didn't occur to me right away... Jeez... Anyway, I cleaned off the
contacts and got it working for the night. It appears to have been the
contactor, which I'll replace tomorrow. THanks much.
BTW: I'm guessing that that explains the E2/low 24 v. code? Obviously,
if there's NONE, it's low. Would it also be the cause of intermittent
E2's? I hadn't noticed them increasing in frequency, as one (I
imagine) would expect.
The low voltage could be caused by the
wrong tap connected on the input of
the low voltage transformer. If it's
a heat pump, the air handler may be fed
by a 208-240vac circuit and the 24 volt
transformer may be the type with a
primary winding for that voltage range.
The transformer will have two different
primary winding taps, one for 208 and
one for 240. Low voltage feeding the
coil of a contactor will keep it from
closing forcefully enough which will
cause the contacts to arc and burn. You
would notice a loud buzzing sound from
the contactor when the coil is powered.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
Interesting... I do have a heat pump with mine. So do I understand it
correctly that 208v could be feeding the 240v winding tap of the
transformer, causing the quick burnouts of them? When I first
encountered this (changing the contactor yearly) it was suggested that
the a/c must be cycling on and off too quickly, though I didn't know
why it would. So I guess this would be an alternate explanation?
the buzzing, would it be a momentary one, just as it's powered, or
would it stay on? I haven't noticed it, but then, haven't listened
for it, either. Thanks much!

Well, check it out and let us know. I hope you
have a means to check your voltage and current.
You can pick up inexpensive test equipment from
a Harbor Freight store if you have one in your
area. The big box stores and Radio Shack have a
more expensive selection.

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...eter&Submit=Go

http://tinyurl.com/5phvcx

[8~{} Uncle Monster

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it Unfortunately, I'm getting ready to away for 2 weeks, so
don't have a bunch of time. Didn't want to ask a stupid question like
where is my transformer.
So, for now, I used some steel wool on the contacts and got it working
temporarily, and then went to get a new contactor today. But I have
another question:
He started to give me a contactor that looked the same, but upon
inspection I found had different specs. Could that be the cause of the
low voltage? Since the contactor has been switched out a few times,
and once by an A/C guy who hooked it up wrong! and they had to come
out to re-do it, so it's possible that they didn't replace it with the
right one.
I have one in my hand which could be the one I just had on that
failed, or the one from a year ago, and the one that I just bought,
both have these specs on them (the 180 under LRA could be 160; so
small!):

24 VAC

VAC FLA LRA RES
240/277 40 240 50
480 40 200 50
600 40 180 50

Now, I looked at the one I have on it right now, which could be the
one that failed or one that had quickly failed a year ago (either way,
the same performance), but that I cleaned up and is running it now,
has these specs. I THINK this is the one that was on most recently,
because it has a cover, of sorts, over it, which I think they've added
more recently.

40A Definite Purpose Contact
24 VAC
120 VAC
240 VAC

VAC FLA LRA RES
277 40 240
480 32 200 60 or 80
600 25 160

Now, the one they started to give me at the parts store, the best that
I can recall, had FLA ratings of 30 and RES ratings of 40. The guy
said that this was the max, so that this one, (which is the same as I
had on it) was better. Would any of these specs cause there to be too
much resistance, and hence a weaker voltage and the problem? I have a
feeling I'm setting myself up for a comment along the lines of,
"Quick, call someone who knows something!", but thought I'd ask.

In article ,
albee wrote:

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it

I have to say I find this common, and yet very odd. Why would you have a
tool that you don't know how to use? A basic understanding of simple
circuit fundamentals and ohm's law can be acquired in an hour by anyone
of modest intelligence. That knowledge in hand, the meter actually
becomes useful in diagnostics.

Too often in this group we see people rattling off long lists of
"readings" they got from various wires in various combinations,
inquiring as to what it all means. They wrestle with a mental plate of
spaghetti, feigning helplessness. Isn't it easier to just arm yourself?

On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 06:37:13 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
albee wrote:

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it

I have to say I find this common, and yet very odd. Why would you have a
tool that you don't know how to use? A basic understanding of simple
circuit fundamentals and ohm's law can be acquired in an hour by anyone
of modest intelligence. That knowledge in hand, the meter actually
becomes useful in diagnostics.

Too often in this group we see people rattling off long lists of
"readings" they got from various wires in various combinations,
inquiring as to what it all means. They wrestle with a mental plate of
spaghetti, feigning helplessness. Isn't it easier to just arm yourself?
Well, I do have a modicum of intelligence, but I have tried (maybe not
enough) but I have thought the same thing, and did read up on using
it. THe other problem is how OFTEN your average homeowner needs to use
it, you forget what you may have learned.

In article ,
albee wrote:

On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 06:37:13 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
albee wrote:

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it

I have to say I find this common, and yet very odd. Why would you have a
tool that you don't know how to use? A basic understanding of simple
circuit fundamentals and ohm's law can be acquired in an hour by anyone
of modest intelligence. That knowledge in hand, the meter actually
becomes useful in diagnostics.

Too often in this group we see people rattling off long lists of
"readings" they got from various wires in various combinations,
inquiring as to what it all means. They wrestle with a mental plate of
spaghetti, feigning helplessness. Isn't it easier to just arm yourself?
Well, I do have a modicum of intelligence, but I have tried (maybe not
enough) but I have thought the same thing, and did read up on using
it. THe other problem is how OFTEN your average homeowner needs to use
it, you forget what you may have learned.

With respect and compassion, perhaps you misunderstand. It isn't the
meter instructions you need to study. Learn something about electric
circuit fundamentals. Then the usage of the meter will be a total
no-brainer. And electric circuit fundamentals are so damn simple that
it'd be impossible to forget them over time.

The common fallacy is: If I buy a multimeter, I'll be able to do my own
electrical repairs. That's putting the cart before the horse. You can't
fix something you don't understand, regardless of the contents of your
toolbox.

On Jul 31, 10:03 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,



albee wrote:
On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 06:37:13 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
albee wrote:

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it

I have to say I find this common, and yet very odd. Why would you have a
tool that you don't know how to use? A basic understanding of simple
circuit fundamentals and ohm's law can be acquired in an hour by anyone
of modest intelligence. That knowledge in hand, the meter actually
becomes useful in diagnostics.

Too often in this group we see people rattling off long lists of
"readings" they got from various wires in various combinations,
inquiring as to what it all means. They wrestle with a mental plate of
spaghetti, feigning helplessness. Isn't it easier to just arm yourself?
Well, I do have a modicum of intelligence, but I have tried (maybe not
enough) but I have thought the same thing, and did read up on using
it. THe other problem is how OFTEN your average homeowner needs to use
it, you forget what you may have learned.

With respect and compassion, perhaps you misunderstand. It isn't the
meter instructions you need to study. Learn something about electric
circuit fundamentals. Then the usage of the meter will be a total
no-brainer. And electric circuit fundamentals are so damn simple that
it'd be impossible to forget them over time.

The common fallacy is: If I buy a multimeter, I'll be able to do my own
electrical repairs. That's putting the cart before the horse. You can't
fix something you don't understand, regardless of the contents of your
toolbox.

Okay, I'll try to address that. Truly, But I'm going on vacation in 6
hours, and would like to rectify this problem. Obviously you know the
answer. Would you be so kind as to inform me of it, this time, as I'm
a bit harried packing, etc. and want to get a new contactor in before
we go. I appreciate it. Thanks.

On Jul 31, 12:57 pm, jackj wrote:
On Jul 31, 10:03 am, Smitty Two wrote:



In article ,

albee wrote:
On Thu, 31 Jul 2008 06:37:13 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
albee wrote:

Thanks; I do have a multimeter. Not completely sure how to USE it, but
I have it

I have to say I find this common, and yet very odd. Why would you have a
tool that you don't know how to use? A basic understanding of simple
circuit fundamentals and ohm's law can be acquired in an hour by anyone
of modest intelligence. That knowledge in hand, the meter actually
becomes useful in diagnostics.

Too often in this group we see people rattling off long lists of
"readings" they got from various wires in various combinations,
inquiring as to what it all means. They wrestle with a mental plate of
spaghetti, feigning helplessness. Isn't it easier to just arm yourself?
Well, I do have a modicum of intelligence, but I have tried (maybe not
enough) but I have thought the same thing, and did read up on using
it. THe other problem is how OFTEN your average homeowner needs to use
it, you forget what you may have learned.

With respect and compassion, perhaps you misunderstand. It isn't the
meter instructions you need to study. Learn something about electric
circuit fundamentals. Then the usage of the meter will be a total
no-brainer. And electric circuit fundamentals are so damn simple that
it'd be impossible to forget them over time.

The common fallacy is: If I buy a multimeter, I'll be able to do my own
electrical repairs. That's putting the cart before the horse. You can't
fix something you don't understand, regardless of the contents of your
toolbox.

Okay, I'll try to address that. Truly, But I'm going on vacation in 6
hours, and would like to rectify this problem. Obviously you know the
answer. Would you be so kind as to inform me of it, this time, as I'm
a bit harried packing, etc. and want to get a new contactor in before
we go. I appreciate it. Thanks.

And to clarify what my current question is, I'll copy the specs below.
In short, does it matter which of these I use, or more specifically,
is the one, I believe "rated" higher, better. Or should I get the
lower one. Thanks.
I have one in my hand which could be the one I just had on that
failed, or the one from a year ago, and the one that I just bought,
both have these specs on them (the 180 under LRA could be 160; so
small!):

24 VAC

VAC FLA LRA RES
240/277 40 240 50
480 40 200 50
600 40 180 50

Now, I looked at the one I have on it right now, which could be the
one that failed or one that had quickly failed a year ago (either way,
the same performance), but that I cleaned up and is running it now,
has these specs. I THINK this is the one that was on most recently,
because it has a cover, of sorts, over it, which I think they've added
more recently.

40A Definite Purpose Contact
24 VAC
120 VAC
240 VAC

VAC FLA LRA RES
277 40 240
480 32 200 60 or 80
600 25 160

Now, the one they started to give me at the parts store, the best that
I can recall, had FLA ratings of 30 and RES ratings of 40. The guy
said that this was the max, so that this one, (which is the same as I
had on it) was better. Would any of these specs cause there to be too
much resistance, and hence a weaker voltage and the problem?