You guys have been so helpful about machines, and I also diagnosed my folks
V drop problem by reading the reads here.
Now, I have an urgent situation...

My folks cooler here went bad. All the repair guys came out and replaced all
the parts. Motors, belts, pulleys, thermostats, etc. It was a Master Kool.

Anyway, nothing worked, and they called my incompetent nephew. (they didn't
call me because I advised them to get an electrician out months ago, and
they called me nuts).

Anyway, they called me yesterday. After asking a few questions, I found out
that their lights dim when any major appliance came on. Recalling what I
read here recently, I suspected a faulty neutral. They called PG and E. He
showed up about an hour ago. I explained the situation, and we measured the
voltage across the service entrance. Sure enough, one leg read 130, and the
other 110. This should explain why the cooler motor was laboring to come on
(and sometimes wouldn't). There is a splice somewhere under the house with
the neutral wire (some other dumb ass did this, I think), and I will replace
it tomorrow.
\
Now my REAL question. My nephew ripped out all the low volt thermostat
wires, and also the guts to the panel to the relay panel attached to the
cooler. So what I've got to do is run a whole new system. Motor, pump, all
work fine wired hard. He bought a new thermostat that's not low voltage.
I've got to install it somewhere, run the circuit (it calls for black and
neutral IN, and has 6 OUTS. Hi fan, low fan, pump only, hi cool, low cool,
and green).

I've done this before, but my other job had a terminal board attached to the
cooler to attach all these wires. Now (because of idiot nephew) there is
nothing but an empty weather proof case attached. QUESTION:

Do I buy a terminal for the cooler (where and what?), or do I attach all the
leads from the new thermostat to the pump and motor ( 2 speed, I know which
is which). I COULD do this, but can't figure out where the neutral would
come from for the pump and motor WITHOUT a terminal box. Do I run a pigtail
for the pump and motor directly to the nuetral bus bar? And then wire the
rest as the directions say (I already have a 2+1 romex (#12) to the cooler
now, directly from the breaker box)

I know this is long, but wanted to explain what I'm up against. It will be
over 100F tomorrow and I NEED to do this fast and right. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Your post is difficult to follow. I am assuming some things here. The white
neutral from your supply cable (romex) needs to be connected to only the
neutrals of the pump and fan motor. These three wires must be connected
together inside of some kind of box as will be the switch and other
connections. You can use a twist on insulated connector to do this. The
green or bare wire in the supply cable (romex) must also be connected to
this box as well as the metal case of the cooler. The black wire in the
supply cable (romex) should connect to the switch power terminal, then the
three remaining switch terminals connected to the two proper speed wires for
the fan and the last to the other wire from the pump. I am assuming that the
switch is mounted in the house vent panel and is contained in a proper
switch box.

I hope this helps.
--
Chipper Wood
useoursatyahoodotcom

"Spike" wrote in message
...
You guys have been so helpful about machines, and I also diagnosed my
folks
V drop problem by reading the reads here.
Now, I have an urgent situation...

My folks cooler here went bad. All the repair guys came out and replaced
all
the parts. Motors, belts, pulleys, thermostats, etc. It was a Master Kool.

Anyway, nothing worked, and they called my incompetent nephew. (they
didn't
call me because I advised them to get an electrician out months ago, and
they called me nuts).

Anyway, they called me yesterday. After asking a few questions, I found
out
that their lights dim when any major appliance came on. Recalling what I
read here recently, I suspected a faulty neutral. They called PG and E. He
showed up about an hour ago. I explained the situation, and we measured
the
voltage across the service entrance. Sure enough, one leg read 130, and
the
other 110. This should explain why the cooler motor was laboring to come
on
(and sometimes wouldn't). There is a splice somewhere under the house with
the neutral wire (some other dumb ass did this, I think), and I will
replace
it tomorrow.
\
Now my REAL question. My nephew ripped out all the low volt thermostat
wires, and also the guts to the panel to the relay panel attached to the
cooler. So what I've got to do is run a whole new system. Motor, pump, all
work fine wired hard. He bought a new thermostat that's not low voltage.
I've got to install it somewhere, run the circuit (it calls for black and
neutral IN, and has 6 OUTS. Hi fan, low fan, pump only, hi cool, low cool,
and green).

I've done this before, but my other job had a terminal board attached to
the
cooler to attach all these wires. Now (because of idiot nephew) there is
nothing but an empty weather proof case attached. QUESTION:

Do I buy a terminal for the cooler (where and what?), or do I attach all
the
leads from the new thermostat to the pump and motor ( 2 speed, I know
which
is which). I COULD do this, but can't figure out where the neutral would
come from for the pump and motor WITHOUT a terminal box. Do I run a
pigtail
for the pump and motor directly to the nuetral bus bar? And then wire the
rest as the directions say (I already have a 2+1 romex (#12) to the
cooler
now, directly from the breaker box)

I know this is long, but wanted to explain what I'm up against. It will be
over 100F tomorrow and I NEED to do this fast and right. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.

Chipper Wood wrote in message
...
I am assuming that the
switch is mounted in the house vent panel and is contained in a proper
switch box.


Thanks for the input. I don't know what a "house vent panel" is
though.....Yes, the switch (thermostat) is inside and in a switch box. There
are only 2 leads for "input". Black and White, 12 gauge. The output side is
all 14 gauge and includes pump, low, hi ,etc. (along with the green or
"grounding" wire). I have NO idea why it's on the ouput side.

The instructions I read aren't real clear. This thing is made in China,
FWIW.

My assumption is to attach (with wire nuts) the black and neutral from a
breaker to the "input side". No mention of the bare.

The other "ouput leads" are obvious. My questions is.............If I only
have one power lead to each device, *what* serves as the neutral? And what
to do about the "grounding, or bare" wire from the power circuit? (breaker).

I'm guessing I can pig tail the white (neutral) wires from each device, and
then run them to the neutral bus at the breaker box?

Thanks for taking the time to answer. Only hours till lift-off!

On Tue, 13 Jul 2004 23:25:45 -0700, "Spike"
wrote:


Chipper Wood wrote in message
...
I am assuming that the
switch is mounted in the house vent panel and is contained in a proper
switch box.


Thanks for the input. I don't know what a "house vent panel" is
though.....Yes, the switch (thermostat) is inside and in a switch box. There
are only 2 leads for "input". Black and White, 12 gauge. The output side is
all 14 gauge and includes pump, low, hi ,etc. (along with the green or
"grounding" wire). I have NO idea why it's on the ouput side.

The instructions I read aren't real clear. This thing is made in China,
FWIW.

My assumption is to attach (with wire nuts) the black and neutral from a
breaker to the "input side". No mention of the bare.

The other "ouput leads" are obvious. My questions is.............If I only
have one power lead to each device, *what* serves as the neutral? And what
to do about the "grounding, or bare" wire from the power circuit? (breaker).

I'm guessing I can pig tail the white (neutral) wires from each device, and
then run them to the neutral bus at the breaker box?

Thanks for taking the time to answer. Only hours till lift-off!



Assuming you are talking about a swamp or evaporative cooler, yes,
they should all have a common neutral and the hots to the pump and
motor should be switched legs. If the motor has multiple speeds as
most cooler motors do..they each have their own wire for each speed,
and those should also be switched hots.
The green wire is ground and should be attached to a good clean and
bare metal place on the cooler. Im assuming your control panel also
has a ground input, which should be attached to the bare wire in your
romex (only time you find a bare wire usually)

Least every one Ive ever had did. And thats been quite a few. Shrug.

Gunner

"The entire population of Great Britain has been declared insane by
their government. It is believed that should any one of them come in
possession of a firearm, he will immediately start to foam at the
mouth and begin kiling children at the nearest school. The proof of
their insanity is that they actually believe this."
-- someone in misc.survivalism

Gunner wrote in message
...
.. Im assuming your control panel also
has a ground input, which should be attached to the bare wire in your
romex (only time you find a bare wire usually)

Least every one Ive ever had did. And thats been quite a few. Shrug.


NOW we are at the crux of the problem. Idiot nephew ripped out the CONTROL
PANEL on the cooler. Can I hard wire everything at the cooler (in a box), or
do I need a control panel up there?

Thanks for the input, everyone.

On Wed, 14 Jul 2004 08:43:36 -0700, "Spike"
wrote:


Gunner wrote in message
.. .
. Im assuming your control panel also
has a ground input, which should be attached to the bare wire in your
romex (only time you find a bare wire usually)

Least every one Ive ever had did. And thats been quite a few. Shrug.


NOW we are at the crux of the problem. Idiot nephew ripped out the CONTROL
PANEL on the cooler. Can I hard wire everything at the cooler (in a box), or
do I need a control panel up there?

Thanks for the input, everyone.


You should be able to hard wire it directly at the panel. There isnt
much stuff there so it simple to find out which is the pump, which is
the motor (though the multiple speed wiring may be more
difficult..motor lable may help)

Gunner

"The entire population of Great Britain has been declared insane by
their government. It is believed that should any one of them come in
possession of a firearm, he will immediately start to foam at the
mouth and begin kiling children at the nearest school. The proof of
their insanity is that they actually believe this."
-- someone in misc.survivalism