I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

http://picasaweb.google.com/gobofraggle/ApplianceGarage

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

When I did my kitchen over, I questioned whether to put an 8" or 12"
overhang on my peninsula. I went with 12" and I'm glad I did.
Unfortunately in your case your going to have to bite the bullet and
ante up for a new slab of granite. Do not do a patch job like you
described, it will not look nice. Theres a right way to do things and
a wrong way.
When you put in a new piece of granite, you'll forget about the $900
and enjoy the kitchen.

Or you can live with the 9" overhang.

On Jul 9, 12:10*pm, Mikepier wrote:
When I did my kitchen over, I questioned whether to put an 8" or 12"
overhang on my peninsula. I went with 12" and I'm glad I did.
Unfortunately in your case your going to have to bite the bullet and
ante up for a new slab of granite. Do not do a patch job like you
described, it will not look nice. Theres a right way to do things and
a wrong way.
When you put in a new piece of granite, you'll forget about the $900
and enjoy the kitchen.

Or you can live with the 9" overhang.


I agree. In the grand scheme of things, $900 to fix a mistake right
seems like a reasonable solution. And IMO, it's not worth hacking
around with something that is obvious and affects the re-sale value of
the house.

On Jul 8, 10:49*am, wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. *Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. *I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. *However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. *So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. *But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) *Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of *the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. *(See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

http://picasaweb.google.com/gobofraggle/ApplianceGarage

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basement countertop
project? Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

"RickH" wrote in message
...
On Jul 8, 10:49 am, wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

http://picasaweb.google.com/gobofraggle/ApplianceGarage

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basement countertop
project? Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

--

you can sell the slab on craigslist

wrote:
....
My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. ...

W/O seeing the actual piece, it's hard to know for certain, but I'd
certainly think either a contrasting piece or matching worked in (and
not necessarily at the back but in the middle, even, w/ a good job of
seaming would/could be made to be a feature rather than a flaw.

--

On Jul 9, 2:26*pm, dpb wrote:
wrote:

...

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. *However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. *...

W/O seeing the actual piece, it's hard to know for certain, but I'd
certainly think either a contrasting piece or matching worked in (and
not necessarily at the back but in the middle, even, w/ a good job of
seaming would/could be made to be a feature rather than a flaw.

--

I don't think you can make the seam in the middle. If you did then you
need a support for the 12" overhang . If you get a new piece, it will
span the entire 24" of counter, then overhang 12", so you don't need
any support legs.

Mikepier wrote:
....
I don't think you can make the seam in the middle. If you did then you
need a support for the 12" overhang. ...

I don't know that that is _necessarily_ so. OP doesn't say how wide the
overall piece is, only that he has only a 9" overhang.

There are several options for fastening the piece down other than its
own weight...

--

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
When I did my kitchen over, I questioned whether to put an 8" or 12"
overhang on my peninsula. I went with 12" and I'm glad I did.
Unfortunately in your case your going to have to bite the bullet and
ante up for a new slab of granite. Do not do a patch job like you
described, it will not look nice. Theres a right way to do things and
a wrong way.
When you put in a new piece of granite, you'll forget about the $900
and enjoy the kitchen.

Or you can live with the 9" overhang.

Oh, good grief. A free post would have saved the OP bigtime. Without
getting too long and risking cracking, overhangs should be as big as
possible. Both for the comfort of people sitting there in the future, but
also for stool storage, and a dozen other reasons I can't think of right
now. And at the time of initial construction, cheap, cheap, cheap, even if
you want one that will require a 4x4 cantilever.

Yup, either bite the bullet or live with it. And learn from it, which I
don't need to say............

Steve

On Jul 9, 3:00*pm, dpb wrote:
Mikepier wrote:

...

I don't think you can make the seam in the middle. If you did then you
need a support for the 12" overhang. *...

I don't know that that is _necessarily_ so. *OP doesn't say how wide the
overall piece is, only that he has only a 9" overhang.

There are several options for fastening the piece down other than its
own weight...

--

Not good, you would be installing a skinny 4 inch x 63 inch piece with
little under-support other than the cabinet walls. You would have to
work in the epoxy over the whole length and the seem would be in the
most obvious place, full width directly on top of an island. I dont
even think any granite company would do this if you asked them to.
But they might agree to cut up the old slab for you to reuse somewhere
else.

RickH wrote:
....
Not good, you would be installing a skinny 4 inch x 63 inch piece with
little under-support other than the cabinet walls. You would have to
work in the epoxy over the whole length and the seem would be in the
most obvious place, full width directly on top of an island. I dont
even think any granite company would do this if you asked them to.

I've seen very similar things done where it was done purposefully for
the accent. Once it's seamed, it's not an independent piece any longer.

But they might agree to cut up the old slab for you to reuse somewhere
else.

Of course...

--

wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite hanging out
in space unless it is resting on something. Especially at $900 per pop.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Jul 10, 12:27*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. *Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. *I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. *However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. *So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. *But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) *Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of *the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. *(See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite hanging out
in space unless it is resting on something. *Especially at $900 per pop..

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not? Its perfectly fine provided that you span 24" of counter
before hanging over 12", and provided the granite is 1 1/4" thick.
Almost every granite place I called while doing my kitchen said the
same thing.

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
On Jul 10, 12:27 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite hanging
out
in space unless it is resting on something. Especially at $900 per pop.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not? Its perfectly fine provided that you span 24" of counter
before hanging over 12", and provided the granite is 1 1/4" thick.
Almost every granite place I called while doing my kitchen said the
same thing.

--

the OP didn't state what thickness he has, but in my area, 3/4" granite is
much more common. the edge is doubled to give the impression it's 1.5" thick
instead.

On Jul 10, 1:01*pm, "charlie"
wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...
On Jul 10, 12:27 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:





wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered anisland/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9"overhangfor use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises theoverhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite hanging
out
in space unless it is resting on something. Especially at $900 per pop.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not? Its perfectly fine provided that you span 24" of counter
before hanging over 12", and provided the granite is 1 1/4" thick.
Almost every granite place I called while doing my kitchen said the
same thing.

--

the OP didn't state what thickness he has, but in my area, 3/4" granite is
much more common. the edge is doubled to give the impression it's 1.5" thick
instead.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The stone is 1-1/4" thick, and it is Quartz, not Granite. So, it is
ground up stone, bound with epoxy. I'd imagine that this would be
much less prone to breaking then Granite, as there are no natural
variations/cleavages/fault lines in the stone. Is that a fair
assumption?

Mikepier wrote:
On Jul 10, 12:27 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying
to think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the
gap with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on
the flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the
entire length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So
I had the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage"
that would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam.
But to cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to
the edge of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base
cabinets. (That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this
look silly, or can what's above the countertop act "independently"
of what's below the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be
visible if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue
arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite
hanging out in space unless it is resting on something. Especially
at $900 per pop.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not? Its perfectly fine provided that you span 24" of counter
before hanging over 12", and provided the granite is 1 1/4" thick.
Almost every granite place I called while doing my kitchen said the
same thing.

Rock has fractures, cleavage planes, etc. IOW, rock breaks (can break).
Even 1 1/4 granite, supported area doesn't provide any support for that
hanging out. Will it break? Probably not. Can it break? Absolutely.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

In article ,
"charlie" wrote:

"RickH" wrote in message
...
On Jul 8, 10:49 am, wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

http://picasaweb.google.com/gobofraggle/ApplianceGarage

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basement countertop
project? Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

--

you can sell the slab on craigslist

I'd sell the whole thing on craigslist. I've never seen something that
blends uselessness and ugliness so well. Sorry, OP, but IMO the
contraption is an abomination. It looks like a bad 1950's era B-movie
interpretation of futurism.

On Jul 10, 3:30*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Mikepier wrote:
On Jul 10, 12:27 pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying
to think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the
gap with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on
the flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the
entire length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So
I had the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage"
that would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam.
But to cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to
the edge of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base
cabinets. (That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this
look silly, or can what's above the countertop act "independently"
of what's below the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be
visible if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue
arrow.)

Any ideas??

Personally, I wouldn't want 12" or 13" - or even 9" - of granite
hanging out in space unless it is resting on something. Especially
at $900 per pop.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico-Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Why not? Its perfectly fine provided that you span 24" of counter
before hanging over 12", and provided the granite is 1 1/4" thick.
Almost every granite place I called while doing my kitchen said the
same thing.

Rock has fractures, cleavage planes, etc. *IOW, rock breaks (can break)..
Even 1 1/4 granite, supported area doesn't provide any support for that
hanging out. *Will it break? *Probably not. *Can it break? *Absolutely.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The granite suppliers I recently talked to about a project said up to
12" unsupported overhang was OK with std granite, ie 1 1/2"

RickH wrote in news:54c13d95-fc59-4800-
:

Would you consider making the 4-inch strip a contrasting colour or even a
different material so it looks like a design feature?

On Jul 14, 10:46*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,





*"charlie" wrote:
"RickH" wrote in message
....
On Jul 8, 10:49 am, wrote:
I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my
kitchen with a 9"overhangfor use as a breakfast bar. Once the
quartzcountertopwas installed, it was obvious that 9" was too
shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a
comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of
countertopfor $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to
think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull thecountertopforward 4" and then fill the gap
with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the
flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire
length of thecountertop(63") where the two pieces join. So I had
the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that
would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to
cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge
of thecountertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets.
(That nine inches comprises theoverhang.) Would this look silly, or
can what's above thecountertopact "independently" of what's below
the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one
showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible
if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

http://picasaweb.google.com/gobofraggle/ApplianceGarage

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basementcountertop
project? *Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

--

you can sell the slab on craigslist

I'd sell the whole thing on craigslist. I've never seen something that
blends uselessness and ugliness so well. Sorry, OP, but IMO the
contraption is an abomination. It looks like a bad 1950's era B-movie
interpretation of futurism.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The representation in the pictures is completely fictitious (a
Photoshop creation) to help me visualize.

For those of you who are interested, we've decided to purchase a new
piece of stone with the proper overhang (14" on the front, minus 1"
for the width of the cabinet doors, so 13" of "usable" overhang). If
we want to add an appliance garage down the road, we can.