I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose. It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.

--
Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm

clifto wrote:
I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose. It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.


If it's a size that's commonly used for pipe hangers, there are couplers
available where you can cut off the damaged section and splice in a nwe
one. However, if they're only 3" long I suspect that replacement would
be your best option. can you post a pic?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Clifto,

They sell nuts with nylon inserts that are very vibration resistant. They
are called Stop Nuts. Most hardware stores sell them

Dave M.

"clifto" wrote in message
...
I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose.
It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.

--
Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm



I've fixed munged threads with a file, if you have a file that can fit in
the thread, you should be able to use the file to make it look like a thread
again. Then, maybe you can try spinning a thread-cutting die on it.

On May 31, 10:59*am, clifto wrote:
I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose. It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.

--
* * * * * * * * Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
* * * * * * * * * * *http://britneyspears.ac/lasers..htm

Use red Loctite, available at many hardware and auto parts stores.
That is the most stubborn grade of thread locker in the Loctitie line.

Joe

clifto wrote:
I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose. It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.

A new nut may solve the problem.
If a new nut also slides then re thread the rod with the next smaller die and get a
nut to fit that new size.

Bob M. wrote:
"clifto" wrote in message
...
I have a heavy-duty massager whose main structure is held together by two
pieces of threaded rod about 3" long. The rods are partially stripped at
the ends; nuts need to be turned to put them on, but they're quite loose.
It
doesn't look like it would be possible for me to replace the rods, so I'm
wondering if there's any sane and relatively permanent way to repair the
threads. Whatever I use has to tolerate a LOT of vibration, of course.

I've fixed munged threads with a file, if you have a file that can fit in
the thread, you should be able to use the file to make it look like a thread
again. Then, maybe you can try spinning a thread-cutting die on it.

I have too little metal, not too much. One rod has a 3/16" section on the
end such that the nut slides on.

--
Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm

clifto wrote:
I have too little metal, not too much. One rod has a 3/16" section on the
end such that the nut slides on.

You've stripped the threads off. There is no practical way to fix that
except by replacing the threaded rods.

If you galled the threads so the nut wouldn't thread on, that'd be
different. That could be cleaned out with a thread file.

wrote:
clifto wrote:
I have too little metal, not too much. One rod has a 3/16" section on the
end such that the nut slides on.
....

Or rethreading for smaller size or if it doesn't need to hold much force
peening to create high spots and rethread. Possibly some shim stock
around the thin spot might work. Lots of ways to cobble stuff up; best
would undoubtedly be to replace...

Or, is there a section not used so could shorten existing, use
connecting nut to extend back to original length?

--

wrote:
clifto wrote:
I have too little metal, not too much. One rod has a 3/16" section on the
end such that the nut slides on.

You've stripped the threads off. There is no practical way to fix that
except by replacing the threaded rods.

If you galled the threads so the nut wouldn't thread on, that'd be
different. That could be cleaned out with a thread file.

If he is sure it will never need to be taken apart again, a couple spot
welds should work.....

--
aem sends...