I had to replace the element receptacle I found bad a while back. It was
arcing, and sometimes the element would not heat. I let it go for a few
months, Got a new receptacle at Lowes, and installed it.
"No Joy"
Only have about 30 volts coming from the tabs on the Infinite Switch
that go to the burner receptacle. (with the switch on high.)
Other 3 show 230 volts at the tabs to the element receptacles.
Element is showing about 30 ohms resistance even swapped it with another
working element.
I do have 230 going into the Infinite Switch , so I'm thinking bad switch.
Guess there is no way to repair the switch.
Would Lowes carry one, or do I need to go to an appliance store.
Thanks, Tony

"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote in message
news:K02_j.154$4c.139@trnddc08...
I had to replace the element receptacle I found bad a while back. It was
arcing, and sometimes the element would not heat. I let it go for a few
months, Got a new receptacle at Lowes, and installed it.
"No Joy"
Only have about 30 volts coming from the tabs on the Infinite Switch
that go to the burner receptacle. (with the switch on high.)
Other 3 show 230 volts at the tabs to the element receptacles.
Element is showing about 30 ohms resistance even swapped it with another
working element.
I do have 230 going into the Infinite Switch , so I'm thinking bad switch.
Guess there is no way to repair the switch.
Would Lowes carry one, or do I need to go to an appliance store.
Thanks, Tony

Just Ran this test I found on the net,

Checking the burner switch Set meter to like Rx1 scale and check switch
with wires unhooked. (Mark the wires before you remove them).
With the switch turned to the on position:

L1 to P: Continuity
L1 to H1: Continuity
L2 to H2: Continuity

With the switch turned to the off position:

No continuity from L1 to P
No continuity from L1 to H1
No continuity from L2 to H2

Legend

L1 - Line 1 - 110 volts
L2 - Line 2 - 110 volts
P - Pilot Light - 110 volts
H1 - Heater 1 - 110 volts
H2 - Heater 2 - 110 volts
110 + 110 = 220



L1 to P: Continuity/ Checks OK
L1 to H1: Continuity/ Checks OK
L2 to H2: Continuity / Open (No continuity)

So it looks like that's the problem

Are these switches all the same? Like could I take one from an old stove of
any make?

Also does it matter if H1 and H2 are reversed, as I mixed them up. I would
think no.

Thanks, Tony

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
I would suggest it is likely the switch and that 30V is ghost voltage.
If you use an old analog meter it will likely show zero. It just means
some wires are running close to each other but the insulation is still in
place.

Yea, like I said, L2 to H2 is showing open, (No continuity) So it looks like
a new switch is in order.
I did take the switch apart and filed the contacts, but still no go.
Looked like a little piece of the bi metal strip was broke off.
Thanks, Tony

In article Spc_j.2373$u7.1181@trnddc07,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
I would suggest it is likely the switch and that 30V is ghost voltage.
If you use an old analog meter it will likely show zero. It just means
some wires are running close to each other but the insulation is still in
place.

Yea, like I said, L2 to H2 is showing open, (No continuity) So it looks like
a new switch is in order.
I did take the switch apart and filed the contacts, but still no go.
Looked like a little piece of the bi metal strip was broke off.
Thanks, Tony

So bypass the switch for confirmation. Short the load to the line and
see whether the burner heats up. Robert Shaw Controls is a source of
infinite switches. I've got an old catalog but maybe they're on the web.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article Spc_j.2373$u7.1181@trnddc07,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
I would suggest it is likely the switch and that 30V is ghost
voltage.
If you use an old analog meter it will likely show zero. It just means
some wires are running close to each other but the insulation is still
in
place.

Yea, like I said, L2 to H2 is showing open, (No continuity) So it looks
like
a new switch is in order.
I did take the switch apart and filed the contacts, but still no go.
Looked like a little piece of the bi metal strip was broke off.
Thanks, Tony

So bypass the switch for confirmation. Short the load to the line and
see whether the burner heats up. Robert Shaw Controls is a source of
infinite switches. I've got an old catalog but maybe they're on the web.

Yea, I thought of that, but I am 99.9% sure it is the switch.
One leg is not passing through L2 To H2.
I am trying to dig up one from a junk stove,as it is not my stove, I am
renting.
I'm sure the landlord would pay for the part,but I'd like to fix it for us.
I usually take the parts for anything off the rent, but I sort of "owe" him
a favor.
No one in "cyber space" happens to be junking a GE stove, they could send me
a switch, I will pay for the shipping?
I lived with out this back burner for about 6 months, so I can live without
it for a while longer.
This project in now on a back burner...............LOL
Tony

In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article Spc_j.2373$u7.1181@trnddc07,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
I would suggest it is likely the switch and that 30V is ghost
voltage.
If you use an old analog meter it will likely show zero. It just means
some wires are running close to each other but the insulation is still
in
place.

Yea, like I said, L2 to H2 is showing open, (No continuity) So it looks
like
a new switch is in order.
I did take the switch apart and filed the contacts, but still no go.
Looked like a little piece of the bi metal strip was broke off.
Thanks, Tony

So bypass the switch for confirmation. Short the load to the line and
see whether the burner heats up. Robert Shaw Controls is a source of
infinite switches. I've got an old catalog but maybe they're on the web.

Yea, I thought of that, but I am 99.9% sure it is the switch.
One leg is not passing through L2 To H2.
I am trying to dig up one from a junk stove,as it is not my stove, I am
renting.
I'm sure the landlord would pay for the part,but I'd like to fix it for us.
I usually take the parts for anything off the rent, but I sort of "owe" him
a favor.
No one in "cyber space" happens to be junking a GE stove, they could send me
a switch, I will pay for the shipping?
I lived with out this back burner for about 6 months, so I can live without
it for a while longer.
This project in now on a back burner...............LOL
Tony

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.

For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit, and there shouldn't be
continuity between input and output if the switch is off.

It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.



For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,
and there shouldn't be
continuity between input and output if the switch is off.

The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.

Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading between
H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony

Anthony Diodati wrote:
"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.




For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,

and there shouldn't be

continuity between input and output if the switch is off.


The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.


Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading between
H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony


Hmmmm,
Old ones were bimetal strip contact. New ones are S.S. stuff.
Depending what your stove have trouble-shooting technique changes.
Our GE stove has S.S. ones.

In article xpo_j.1069$4c.424@trnddc08,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.



For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,
and there shouldn't be
continuity between input and output if the switch is off.

The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.

Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading between
H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony

All right then. I didn't say you didn't know what you were doing, just
that is wasn't entirely clear that you did, based on your word choices
and sentence structure. For example, you just used the phrase "no
reading," which isn't true, and isn't something that someone skilled
with troubleshooting would say.

I agree, now, that the infinite switch is faulty.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:Fxo_j.164621$rd2.2032@pd7urf3no...
In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.




For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,

and there shouldn't be

continuity between input and output if the switch is off.


The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.


Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading
between H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony


Hmmmm,
Old ones were bimetal strip contact. New ones are S.S. stuff.
Depending what your stove have trouble-shooting technique changes.
Our GE stove has S.S. ones.

Not sure about testing a S.S. one, yes this one was bimetal, and mechanical.
Wonder what the replacement for my stove is. bimetal or S.S.?
Old # is WB21X244,
New # is WB21X5243
http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com/o...er-switch.html

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article xpo_j.1069$4c.424@trnddc08,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be
clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically
and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.



For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,
and there shouldn't be
continuity between input and output if the switch is off.

The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.

Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading
between
H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony

All right then. I didn't say you didn't know what you were doing, just
that is wasn't entirely clear that you did, based on your word choices
and sentence structure. For example, you just used the phrase "no
reading," which isn't true, and isn't something that someone skilled
with troubleshooting would say.

I agree, now, that the infinite switch is faulty.

Well, what would be correct?
No Voltage present between H1 and H2?

Where did you see a switch for $10.00? Was it local to you, or on line.
Best I came up with was about $20.00 plus shipping.
Thanks, Tony

Anthony Diodati wrote:
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:Fxo_j.164621$rd2.2032@pd7urf3no...

In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me

from what you've said so far.



For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,

and there shouldn't be


continuity between input and output if the switch is off.


The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.



It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.


Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading
between H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony



Hmmmm,
Old ones were bimetal strip contact. New ones are S.S. stuff.
Depending what your stove have trouble-shooting technique changes.
Our GE stove has S.S. ones.


Not sure about testing a S.S. one, yes this one was bimetal, and mechanical.
Wonder what the replacement for my stove is. bimetal or S.S.?
Old # is WB21X244,
New # is WB21X5243
http://www.cheapapplianceparts.com/o...er-switch.html


Hi,
New SS ones can replace older mechanical ones.

In article iVo_j.5877$ED6.161@trnddc02,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article xpo_j.1069$4c.424@trnddc08,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news In article EJl_j.779$nx6.135@trnddc03,

FYI, a new infinite switch is on the order of ten bucks. It may be
clear
to you that you know how to use a VOM, (structure the test logically
and
interpret the results intelligently) but it isn't entirely clear to me
from what you've said so far.



For example, you say you're measuring resistance, but that isn't
something you should do on a live circuit,
and there shouldn't be
continuity between input and output if the switch is off.

The circuit was NOT live, Stove was unpluged, and the switch was ON high.
All 5 leads were removed from the switch.
Where did I say or sound like I was testing continuity with power running
though the switch. I would think doing so would blow my meter.

Again, Switch *ON* high, All 5 leads UN PLUGED, Stove UNPLUGED.
Between L1 and P, continuity.
Between L1 and H1,continuity.
Between L2 and H2, NO continuity.
Receptial is new, and burner measures ~ 25 ohms restinance.


It might be more appropriate to check the voltage across the line
terminals, and the voltage across the load terminals, with the stove
plugged in and burner set to HI.

Did that too......................

The L1 and L2 are both hot.even with the switch off.
They come right off the terminal block.
With switch on High,(stove plugged in of course) there in no reading
between
H1 and H2.
H1 and H2 go to the burner.
Tony

All right then. I didn't say you didn't know what you were doing, just
that is wasn't entirely clear that you did, based on your word choices
and sentence structure. For example, you just used the phrase "no
reading," which isn't true, and isn't something that someone skilled
with troubleshooting would say.

I agree, now, that the infinite switch is faulty.

Well, what would be correct?
No Voltage present between H1 and H2?

Yep.


Where did you see a switch for $10.00? Was it local to you, or on line.
Best I came up with was about $20.00 plus shipping.
Thanks, Tony

20 sounds about right. We're an OEM so that gets us a wholesale price.

In article xpo_j.1069$4c.424@trnddc08,
"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote:
Well, what would be correct?
No Voltage present between H1 and H2?

Yep.

Where did you see a switch for $10.00? Was it local to you, or on line.
Best I came up with was about $20.00 plus shipping.
Thanks, Tony

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
20 sounds about right. We're an OEM so that gets us a wholesale price.

What , 20 dollars? 20 switches? ~20 ohms resistance? 20 days till I find
someone junking a GE stove?, Dollar amounts usually have a $ sign to the
left, and .XX to the right, So I'm not real clear here,

LOL...................Kidding, thanks for the feedback.

Tony