I had to replace the element receptacle I found bad a while back. It was
arcing, and sometimes the element would not heat. I let it go for a few
months, Got a new receptacle at Lowes, and installed it.
"No Joy"
Only have about 30 volts coming from the tabs on the Infinite Switch
that go to the burner receptacle. (with the switch on high.)
Other 3 show 230 volts at the tabs to the element receptacles.
Element is showing about 30 ohms resistance even swapped it with another
working element.
I do have 230 going into the Infinite Switch , so I'm thinking bad switch.
Guess there is no way to repair the switch.
Would Lowes carry one, or do I need to go to an appliance store.
Thanks, Tony

"Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO wrote in message
news:K02_j.154$4c.139@trnddc08...
I had to replace the element receptacle I found bad a while back. It was
arcing, and sometimes the element would not heat. I let it go for a few
months, Got a new receptacle at Lowes, and installed it.
"No Joy"
Only have about 30 volts coming from the tabs on the Infinite Switch
that go to the burner receptacle. (with the switch on high.)
Other 3 show 230 volts at the tabs to the element receptacles.
Element is showing about 30 ohms resistance even swapped it with another
working element.
I do have 230 going into the Infinite Switch , so I'm thinking bad switch.
Guess there is no way to repair the switch.
Would Lowes carry one, or do I need to go to an appliance store.
Thanks, Tony

Just Ran this test I found on the net,

Checking the burner switch Set meter to like Rx1 scale and check switch
with wires unhooked. (Mark the wires before you remove them).
With the switch turned to the on position:

L1 to P: Continuity
L1 to H1: Continuity
L2 to H2: Continuity

With the switch turned to the off position:

No continuity from L1 to P
No continuity from L1 to H1
No continuity from L2 to H2

Legend

L1 - Line 1 - 110 volts
L2 - Line 2 - 110 volts
P - Pilot Light - 110 volts
H1 - Heater 1 - 110 volts
H2 - Heater 2 - 110 volts
110 + 110 = 220



L1 to P: Continuity/ Checks OK
L1 to H1: Continuity/ Checks OK
L2 to H2: Continuity / Open (No continuity)

So it looks like that's the problem

Are these switches all the same? Like could I take one from an old stove of
any make?

Also does it matter if H1 and H2 are reversed, as I mixed them up. I would
think no.

Thanks, Tony