Like many others, I want to replace the gate valves on my washer
supply lines with proper ball valves. I'm comfortable with sweating
copper pipes where I have good access, which I do not have in this
case. So what I'd like to do if possible is put a ball valve directly
on the outlet of each existing gate valve, and then attach my supply
hoses to the ball valve outlets respectively - all using threaded
components.

I realize this will involve a variety of adapters and fittings, if
it's even possible at all. Can someone privy to plumbing terminology
help me come up with a bill of materials to hand to the local parts
counter? Or are there compelling reasons not to do it this way?

Thanks!
dakota2112

I meant to add that I think this can be easily done using simple
garden hose type ball valves, but for some reason those wouldn't seem
suitable for this application (it would be too easy, so there'd have
to be a catch)

On Apr 30, 12:27*pm, dakota2112 wrote:
I meant to add that I think this can be easily done using simple
garden hose type ball valves, but for some reason those wouldn't seem
suitable for this application (it would be too easy, so there'd have
to be a catch)

might be worth trying those "garden hose" valves for a first shot.
it's not like you don't have backup in the washing machine solenoid
valves. i'd advise going with the brass valves rather than plastic
ones, though. i've had plastic ones split and get leaky. although that
was probably because they froze, but still.....

i moved into a house where the washer in the outdoor sillcock or
hosebib or whatever you call it was shot, and rather than replace it
the guy had just put one of those ball valves on. looked like it had
been on there for years outdoors and still worked fine.

You could use ball valves with compression fittings if the tight space
is a problem (assuming that you consider compression fittings
acceptable).

Otherwise it's just a matter of going to the store like HD or Lowes
and seeing what fits on what. You probably would need the appropriate
adapter(s) but if you needed more than one for each side, I'd be
looking at an online catalog to see if you could order just one
adapter. What they have in the stores is not going to be complete by
any means (and maybe you can order a ball valve online that's made for
what you want, since they probably don't carry that in the store
either).

On Apr 30, 1:06*pm, zzyzzx wrote:
You could use ball valves with compression fittings if the tight space
is a problem (assuming that you consider compression fittings
acceptable).

Otherwise it's just a matter of going to the store like HD or Lowes
and seeing what fits on what. *You probably would need the appropriate
adapter(s) but if you needed more than one for each side, I'd be
looking at an online catalog to see if you could order just one
adapter. *What they have in the stores is not going to be complete by
any means (and maybe you can order a ball valve online that's made for
what you want, since they probably don't carry that in the store
either).

There's no way I'd use the garden hose type valves that are meant to
screw onto a sillcock. I've never seen one of those that I would
consider well built, sturdy, etc to use for a washer. If you can't
get at the existing ones to replace them, what exactly is the
problem? I'd prefer ball valves too, but it the existing gate ones
work, which is what the vast majority have anyway, why screw around?

On Apr 30, 1:11 pm, wrote:

There's no way I'd use the garden hose type valves that are meant to
screw onto a sillcock. I've never seen one of those that I would
consider well built, sturdy, etc to use for a washer. If you can't
get at the existing ones to replace them, what exactly is the
problem? I'd prefer ball valves too, but it the existing gate ones
work, which is what the vast majority have anyway, why screw around?

The existing gate valves may or may not work for their intended
purpose... I never turn them off because of the stigma associated with
them (they are often seized open, or the packing nut starts leaking
once you turn them, etc). But to avoid un-needed problems with burst
hoses, I want to be able to shut the supply off except when in use.

I could theoretically get access to replace the existing valves, which
would be the best solution but it would be a lot of work. Like many
home owners, my spare time has a supply/demand crisis (thanks to the
leaky roof, the leaky barn, and the leaky patio door ;-). So I'm
looking for an easier alternative.

On Apr 30, 9:16*am, dakota2112 wrote:
Like many others, I want to replace the gate valves on my washer
supply lines with proper ball valves. *I'm comfortable with sweating
copper pipes where I have good access, which I do not have in this
case. *So what I'd like to do if possible is put a ball valve directly
on the outlet of each existing gate valve, and then attach my supply
hoses to the ball valve outlets respectively - all using threaded
components.

I realize this will involve a variety of adapters and fittings, if
it's even possible at all. *Can someone privy to plumbing terminology
help me come up with a bill of materials to hand to the local parts
counter? *Or are there compelling reasons not to do it this way?

Thanks!
dakota2112

If the gate valve are the "threaded" variety why not just turn off the
water supply, unscrew the gate valves & install threaded ball valve.

Or are the current gate valves sweated in place?

If clearance & orientation needs to be modified you can use close
nipples or street elbows.

Those garden hose ball valves are not the correct solution, in fact
they could be a source of failure themselves.

If you're worried about a potential burst hose, I'd do a proper ball
valve installation or consider "auto shutoff" supply lines


cheers
Bob

On Apr 30, 1:47*pm, dakota2112 wrote:
On Apr 30, 1:11 pm, wrote:



There's no way I'd use the garden hose type valves that are meant to
screw onto a sillcock. *I've never seen one of those that I would
consider well built, sturdy, etc to use for a washer. * If you can't
get at the existing ones to replace them, what exactly is the
problem? * I'd prefer ball valves too, but it the existing gate ones
work, which is what the vast majority have anyway, why screw around?

The existing gate valves may or may not work for their intended
purpose... I never turn them off because of the stigma associated with
them (they are often seized open, or the packing nut starts leaking
once you turn them, etc). *

That can be a problem with gate valves. On the other hand, there are
a zillion of them around and working reasonably well. Unless they are
in real bad shape, I'd just use them. You can also replace the
packing and washers, etc. Another option, which is what I would do
if I were concerned, is to get the electric type valves that open/
close automatically.




But to avoid un-needed problems with burst
hoses, I want to be able to shut the supply off except when in use.

I could theoretically get access to replace the existing valves, which
would be the best solution but it would be a lot of work. *Like many
home owners, my spare time has a supply/demand crisis (thanks to the
leaky roof, the leaky barn, and the leaky patio door ;-). *So I'm
looking for an easier alternative.

There's also compression mount ball valves.

s


"dakota2112" wrote in message
...
Like many others, I want to replace the gate valves on my washer
supply lines with proper ball valves. I'm comfortable with sweating
copper pipes where I have good access, which I do not have in this
case. So what I'd like to do if possible is put a ball valve directly
on the outlet of each existing gate valve, and then attach my supply
hoses to the ball valve outlets respectively - all using threaded
components.

I realize this will involve a variety of adapters and fittings, if
it's even possible at all. Can someone privy to plumbing terminology
help me come up with a bill of materials to hand to the local parts
counter? Or are there compelling reasons not to do it this way?

Thanks!
dakota2112

On May 1, 10:38*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The purpose for ball valves is to allow full, unrestricted water flow. If
you put one inline with an angle or globe valve, you've still got the
restriction of the other valve. What do you accomplish? Not much.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"dakota2112" wrote in message

...
Like many others, I want to replace the gate valves on my washer
supply lines with proper ball valves. *I'm comfortable with sweating
copper pipes where I have good access, which I do not have in this
case. *So what I'd like to do if possible is put a ball valve directly
on the outlet of each existing gate valve, and then attach my supply
hoses to the ball valve outlets respectively - all using threaded
components.

I realize this will involve a variety of adapters and fittings, if
it's even possible at all. *Can someone privy to plumbing terminology
help me come up with a bill of materials to hand to the local parts
counter? *Or are there compelling reasons not to do it this way?

Thanks!
dakota2112

What do you accomplish? Not much.

A ball valve would accomplish what the OP wants to accomplish:

The ability to shut off the water after each use without messing with
the current gate valves, for fear of them leaking due to not being
used for many years.

I don't think that restricted flow is anything that the OP is
concerned with.

On May 1, 4:05 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
A ball valve would accomplish what the OP wants to accomplish:

The ability to shut off the water after each use without messing with
the current gate valves, for fear of them leaking due to not being
used for many years.

I don't think that restricted flow is anything that the OP is
concerned with.

Correct. I'm not worried about reduced flow.

How do these recessed "washer boxes" get installed? That's what I've
got, it's a WaterTite brand. I gained visual access in the basement
to see what's down there. It's two 1/2" copper (hot and cold) going
straight up through the floor and into the wall beneath the box. The
existing valves sit flush on the bottom of the plastic box, they have
a flange at the base of the valve with flats for a wrench. The drain
goes down in the middle. The pipes are rigid in the vertical
direction (they don't move vertically at all). I see what appears to
be a piece of flattened copper pipe shoved up next to each pipe where
it enters the floor, not sure what that's for. The valves do seem
free in a torsional manner, ie I can force the valves to rotate
slightly about the axis of the vertical pipe meaning I'm twisting the
pipes themselves. The thing that really confuses me though is that
the relatively large PVC drain pipe enters the box inbetween the
valves, and exits through the floor co-planar with the pipes but NOT
inbetween them. Somehow inside the wall, the drain pipe is routed
past one of the copper pipes. I would hope the copper doesn't do a
dogleg in all that, because that might complicate doing anything with
this.

I'm not sure how I would even go about removing the existing valves.
If they are threaded on, I won't be able to remove them because the
pipe flexes torsionally and I can't access the pipe itself to prevent
that. I'm open to suggestions on how to do a proper remove and
replace. But I don't want this to turn into a major project, hence my
desire to just thread ball valves inline before the rubber hoses ;-)

On May 2, 8:16*am, dakota2112 wrote:
On May 1, 4:05 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

A ball valve would accomplish what the OP wants to accomplish:

The ability to shut off the water after each use without messing with
the current gate valves, for fear of them leaking due to not being
used for many years.

I don't think that restricted flow is anything that the OP is
concerned with.

Correct. *I'm not worried about reduced flow.

How do these recessed "washer boxes" get installed? *That's what I've
got, it's a WaterTite brand. *I gained visual access in the basement
to see what's down there. *It's two 1/2" copper (hot and cold) going
straight up through the floor and into the wall beneath the box. *The
existing valves sit flush on the bottom of the plastic box, they have
a flange at the base of the valve with flats for a wrench. *The drain
goes down in the middle. *The pipes are rigid in the vertical
direction (they don't move vertically at all). *I see what appears to
be a piece of flattened copper pipe shoved up next to each pipe where
it enters the floor, not sure what that's for. *The valves do seem
free in a torsional manner, ie I can force the valves to rotate
slightly about the axis of the vertical pipe meaning I'm twisting the
pipes themselves. *The thing that really confuses me though is that
the relatively large PVC drain pipe enters the box inbetween the
valves, and exits through the floor co-planar with the pipes but NOT
inbetween them. *Somehow inside the wall, the drain pipe is routed
past one of the copper pipes. *I would hope the copper doesn't do a
dogleg in all that, because that might complicate doing anything with
this.

I'm not sure how I would even go about removing the existing valves.
If they are threaded on, I won't be able to remove them because the
pipe flexes torsionally and I can't access the pipe itself to prevent
that. *I'm open to suggestions on how to do a proper remove and
replace. *But I don't want this to turn into a major project, hence my
desire to just thread ball valves inline before the rubber hoses ;-)

But I don't want this to turn into a major project

You may not have a choice. I see 2 possible routes to follow:

You can rig something together by putting mupltiple valves in line
with each other or...

When mentioning the original gate valves, you said: "they are often
seized open, or the packing nut starts leaking
once you turn them, etc). "

It's time to man-up and try the valves. If they're siezed up you'll
know right away. Packing nuts are a piece of cake to replace -
probably easier than all the trouble your going to go through to add
new valves in line. If the valves work, you're problem is solved, if
not, it's time to replace them, regardless of how much work it will
take.

Even if they do work, but you really want ball valves for ease of
operation, it's time grab the tools, open the wall and do the job
properly. Install one of those single handle washer shutoffs like you
would for a new install.

On May 3, 10:22*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
What do you want to accomplish?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org

It's been stated several times already, but:

"The existing gate valves may or may not work for their intended
purpose... I never turn them off because of the stigma associated
with
them (they are often seized open, or the packing nut starts leaking
once you turn them, etc). But to avoid un-needed problems with burst
hoses, I want to be able to shut the supply off except when in use."

No matter though, because I already found what I needed at the local
hardware sto 3/4" female hose thread to 1/2" male thread, ball
valve w/ 1/2" female threads, 1/2" male thread to 3/4" male hose
thread)