I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

"Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote in message
ng.com...
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago
and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at
the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing
the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I
have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


There are online sizing calculators to determine this, but you need to know
the total wattage of the things you want to power. Most of these devices
will have their amperage written on the nameplate. The single largest item
you've listed is the furnace, which has a pretty large motor. My guess,
assuming some of these motors could start and run simultaneously, is that
you'd need around 5KW. I use a portable 6KW unit to power: 2 refrigerators,
sewage ejection pump, 240 volt 1/2 HP well pump, hydronic oil fired boiler,
and a handfull of lights, TV's and PC's

On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:36:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?
wrote:

Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of
them will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it
up every day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small
diesel generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until
the tank is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you
about 30 amps, the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.


I have a basic setup in my home. I put in a 6 circuit switch box that
isolates the 6 circuits from the power grid. This is the safest way
to do it.
You can pick and choose the circuits you want to power, sump, well
pump, furnace, freezer, fridge, bathroom, and maybe the TV with
various outlets.
To size the generator, you must take into account the start-up draw of
what you will be powering. There are charts that can give you the
startup draw of various appliances, just add them up and then add
whatever else you will be powering and that will tell you what size
generator you need.

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?" wrote in
message ...
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of
Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado
came through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or
two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is
sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting
but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of them
will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it up every
day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small diesel
generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until the tank
is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you about 30 amps,
the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

What you suggest, is not only illegal in every jurisdiction, but a potential
electrocution hazard to both the operator and any lineman working to restore
power. Simple, safe, and legal generator transfer panels can be bought for a
few hundred dollars

"Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?" wrote in
message ...
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of
Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado
came through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or
two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is
sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting
but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of them
will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it up every
day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small diesel
generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until the tank
is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you about 30 amps,
the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

Thanks I didn't mean to run 2-3 days without refueling I meant the longest
outage I've seen is that and prepare for that. The online guides I saw
seemed to be geared toward bigger switch over units. I planned on making an
extension cord with male on both ends and back feeding the system but as you
pointed out doing this at 220 would make more sense as I don't have to make
sure or put everything I want to power on one leg of the 110, 220 would do
this for me.

5K or more it is then and I think I'll run that 220 line to the garage after
all and back feed with the main off to the whole house. I have all my
expensive electronic devices on UPS's already so they should be OK with the
transition I just have to see how it all works when needed.

Thanks for the help, Rich

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:36:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?
wrote:

The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box

Dumb idea for a number of reasons

What are the reasons? He has the main off. I am just curious because I
thought it sounded pretty good and you said for a number of reasons but
didn't give any.

On Mar 29, 5:51�pm, wrote:
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:36:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?

wrote:
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box

Dumb idea for a number of reasons

has killed linemen who werent following the rules.

main breaker must must must be off!!!! not recommended!!

some breaker cabinets have safe backfeed alternatives.

the larger the generator the hungrier on gasoline, can you store 60
gallons or more at your home safely? it does spoil too, espically the
newer reformulated low volatile gasoline...........

if neighborhood power is out most gas stations cant pump
gas...........

your better off with a smaller generator, run a couple lights or
fridge, or furnace, or whatever....... one at a time

the idle use of gasoline is less with smaller units.

generators can be noisey, a big issue in a dead quiet no power
neighborhood.extra points if you run a line to a neighbor

harbor freight sells nice cheap generators for occasional use. if a
generator sits too long it might not start when you need it the most.

I have a 1000 watt generator its gotten a good bit of use, a 1000 watt
12 volt inverter, nice for quick emergencies, returned home from trip
after bad storm but still saw survivor. quick quiet just my car
idiling. have a 4500 watt unit only used it once

the price on permanent natural gas auto connect have dropped a lot in
the last few years. check home depot.

the power companies arent maintaining things like they used too, have
cut trucks and crews slowing restoration of power during emergencies

"Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote in message
g.com...

"Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?" wrote in
message ...
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of
Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a
tornado came through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a
day or two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble
with is sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some
lighting but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic
setup, Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of them
will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it up
every day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small diesel
generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until the tank
is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you about 30 amps,
the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

Thanks I didn't mean to run 2-3 days without refueling I meant the longest
outage I've seen is that and prepare for that. The online guides I saw
seemed to be geared toward bigger switch over units. I planned on making
an extension cord with male on both ends and back feeding the system but
as you pointed out doing this at 220 would make more sense as I don't have
to make sure or put everything I want to power on one leg of the 110, 220
would do this for me.

5K or more it is then and I think I'll run that 220 line to the garage
after all and back feed with the main off to the whole house. I have all
my expensive electronic devices on UPS's already so they should be OK with
the transition I just have to see how it all works when needed.

Thanks for the help, Rich



What you propose Rich is commonly called the "Suicide cord". You do not
want to have an extension cord with two male ends. There is a safer way to
accomplish the same thing. Connect a flanged "Inlet" of appropriate
amperage to your electrical panel and wire that to its own circuit breaker
that is only operable using an "Interlock Kit". See
http://www.interlockkit.com/ for more info. You should be able to obtain a
flanged inlet from an electrical supply company along with the proper
mounting hardware. This way is a much safer installation.

"gore" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:36:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?
wrote:

The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box

Dumb idea for a number of reasons

What are the reasons? He has the main off. I am just curious because I
thought it sounded pretty good and you said for a number of reasons but
didn't give any.
For one thing, the life and safety of the linemen working to restore the
power shouldn't be dependent on someone remembering the proper order of when
to turn on and off a main disconnect, or some kid or other family member
flipping it on accidentally

Rich wrote:
"Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?" wrote in
message ...
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of
Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado
came through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or
two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is
sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting
but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of them
will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it up every
day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small diesel
generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until the tank
is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you about 30 amps,
the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

Thanks I didn't mean to run 2-3 days without refueling I meant the longest
outage I've seen is that and prepare for that. The online guides I saw
seemed to be geared toward bigger switch over units. I planned on making an
extension cord with male on both ends and back feeding the system but as you
pointed out doing this at 220 would make more sense as I don't have to make
sure or put everything I want to power on one leg of the 110, 220 would do
this for me.

5K or more it is then and I think I'll run that 220 line to the garage after
all and back feed with the main off to the whole house. I have all my
expensive electronic devices on UPS's already so they should be OK with the
transition I just have to see how it all works when needed.

Thanks for the help, Rich



Like several other people in this thread have told you, and every
previous thread on the same subject has said, do NOT use a double-ended
cord to do this. Sure, YOU know what is going on. But what if you have a
heart attack while dragging that heavy branch out of the driveway, and
die or get hauled to the hospital? Will your spouse/kid/helpful
neighbor/whoever know what is going on? In commercial world, when they
do temporary feeds like that, they PADLOCK the circuit that isn't
supposed to be touched. Way too easy for some well-meaning person to
flip the mains back on before generator is disconnected.

Either get your main service panel wired with a proper subpanel and
transfer switch and umbilical socket, or just buy half a dozen
heavy-duty extension cords and run them through a cracked window for the
duration. If you don't believe me, call your insurance agent or local
fire department, and ask THEM. 'Suicide' cords were named that for a reason.

--
aem sends...

Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


My unit is 5500 running watts (7350 starting) and plugs in through a
transfer box. It can run my furnace, well, refrigerator and freezers
with spare power for some lights and TV. Clothes dryer, electric range,
water heater and air conditioner were too much to add and are not needed
for few days outage as are the aforementioned items. Whole set up
including cost of generator and transfer box installed by electrician
cost about $1,000 two years ago.

" wrote:

-snip-
the larger the generator the hungrier on gasoline, can you store 60
gallons or more at your home safely? it does spoil too, espically the
newer reformulated low volatile gasoline...........

Or legally? The neighboring city has a 5 gallon limit- unless it is
"contained in the metal tank fastened and attached to and used in
connection with any automobile for power purposes."

Jim

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Rich wrote:
"Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?" wrote in
message ...
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few
web sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house
instead of just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live
SW of Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a
tornado came through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for
a day or two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm having
trouble with is sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge
and some lighting but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic
setup, Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of
them will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it
up every day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small
diesel generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until
the tank is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you
about 30 amps, the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US
anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

Thanks I didn't mean to run 2-3 days without refueling I meant the
longest outage I've seen is that and prepare for that. The online guides
I saw seemed to be geared toward bigger switch over units. I planned on
making an extension cord with male on both ends and back feeding the
system but as you pointed out doing this at 220 would make more sense as
I don't have to make sure or put everything I want to power on one leg of
the 110, 220 would do this for me.

5K or more it is then and I think I'll run that 220 line to the garage
after all and back feed with the main off to the whole house. I have all
my expensive electronic devices on UPS's already so they should be OK
with the transition I just have to see how it all works when needed.

Thanks for the help, Rich



Like several other people in this thread have told you, and every previous
thread on the same subject has said, do NOT use a double-ended cord to do
this. Sure, YOU know what is going on. But what if you have a heart attack
while dragging that heavy branch out of the driveway, and die or get
hauled to the hospital? Will your spouse/kid/helpful neighbor/whoever know
what is going on? In commercial world, when they do temporary feeds like
that, they PADLOCK the circuit that isn't supposed to be touched. Way too
easy for some well-meaning person to flip the mains back on before
generator is disconnected.

Either get your main service panel wired with a proper subpanel and
transfer switch and umbilical socket, or just buy half a dozen heavy-duty
extension cords and run them through a cracked window for the duration. If
you don't believe me, call your insurance agent or local fire department,
and ask THEM. 'Suicide' cords were named that for a reason.

--
aem sends...

Thanks for the heads up. I agree I know what the double ended cord does but
if I'm not there and someone else says OK I get it....blam.....

OK more to look into but I have the size about right and it's just a matter
of how to get the transfer panel setup. I really haven't looked into these
yet so I'll learn why these are better as I go along.

Thanks, Rich

Rich wrote:

I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Rich, I also live in the Midwest and went through the same thing about 1
year ago -- after a significant ice storm in the area.

I wanted to run an "average" refrig-freezer, a small chest freezer, the
furnace (natural gas with 1/3 hp blower), a small radio and/or light and
POSSIBLY a 1/3 hp sump pump.

Here's what I got and I'm VERY happy with it:

1. Honda EU2000i portable generator (2000 watt max, 1600 watt rated)
Here's a link to the specs:

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/M...elName=EU2000i

2. Had a simple, manual transfer switch (15 amp) installed for the
furnace circuit so that I could use a regular (12 gauge) extension cord
from the generator to plug into the switch and run the furnace. Here's a
link to the transfer switch I got, a "Reliance Controls 15-amp Furnace
Transfer Switch" - they also have a 20-amp version:

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....roducts_id=271

Believe it or not, that little generator has run most of the above
appliances, at the same time, without overload AS LONG AS THEY DO NOT
START UP AT THE SAME TIME -- which has never happened in the approx. 45+
hrs of testing I've done in the last year.

The power required at start-up for resistive electrical motors (e.g.,
refrig, freezer, furnace blower, sump pump) is MUCH greater than that
needed to run them. I'd guess (it hasn't happened yet, though) that if
any two of those appliances tried to start at exactly the same time, the
generator would cut off; it has an overload cutoff.

This winter, I routinely tested with furnace, refrig-freezer, chest
freezer and radio all plugged in and with the generator in EcoThrottle
mode without problems. Just last week I tested with furnace, sump pump
and radio plugged in (again, using EcoThrottle) without problems.

In a real, extended power outage, I plan to "juggle" extension cords to
avoid overload and plug in the refrig-freezer and chest freezer only
when needed. I have a couple of cheap but very handy little thermometers
with probes that I'll put in the freezers and be able to determine when
they need to run without having to open them. I'll do that especially if
I need to run the sump pump with the furnace.

The EU2000i is VERY energy-efficient. This winter when I ran 4-hr tests
with furnace, refrig-freezer, chest freezer and radio plugged in, I used
approx. 1/2 gal (maybe less) of gasoline.

As for the break-in and maintenance of the EU2000i: I used Castrol
10w-30 to break it in and now use Amsoil 10w-30 Synthetic High
Performance Oil exclusively.

One other thing, plan to get yourself some high quality, 12 gauge
extension cords but only as long as you really need. I've also found the
short 3-outlet extensions handy. The EU2000i has two 120 volt outlets so
I run two 50ft 12gauge extension cords from the generator -- one to the
basement where the furnace, chest freezer and sump pump are located; and
one upstairs where the refrig-freezer, radio and lights are located. I
then put a short (2 ft) 12 gauge 3-outlet extension on each and plug in
the appliances needed either directly or, if necessary, using a 25ft
12gauge extension cord so that the max. length of 12gauge cord between
the generator and any appliance is 75 ft.

So, Rich, that's what I found seems to meet my backup needs -- hope you
found it useful. As you can tell, I'm very pleased with that little
Honda generator. It's approx 50 lbs fully gassed and can be stored
easily in a small space in the garage.

Best wishes -- with luck, we'll never have to use any generators "for
real" but I'm not counting on that ;-)

Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ? wrote:

Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of
them will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it
up every day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small
diesel generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until
the tank is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you
about 30 amps, the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

--
Blattus Slafaly ? 3 7/8

Ignoring the legalities, a person who needs assistance sizing a portable
generator for the task is almost certainly not one who should be
managing a suicide cord back feed setup.

"aemeijers" wrote

Either get your main service panel wired with a proper subpanel and
transfer switch and umbilical socket, or just buy half a dozen heavy-duty
extension cords and run them through a cracked window for the duration. If
you don't believe me, call your insurance agent or local fire department,
and ask THEM. 'Suicide' cords were named that for a reason.

Grin, slight confusion on our end is one of the reasons we havent gotten one
yet. Our electrical box is opposite end of the house from where the garage
is (which with an open window is the optimal place for the generator).

I was thinking the safest and most workable setup for *us* is a simple small
one, not meant to be hooked to the house. I need to run one freezer (uses
110outlet, do not remember the rest of the details but can look it up,
filled with frozen stuff and can last days with little more than a bag of
ice a day as it is), and would like to be able to run a few lamps and a fan.
If I can squeeze in a small TV and a VCR or a DVD player (not vcr and dvd at
same time), it would be nice and seems the units could do that.

Ventilation of the garage isnt a problem. I also can open the door to the
screened porch off of it and it has one of those attic fans that work by
mere hot air rising (small but adequate for it's location). That was
however my first concern.

I've seen several units at the exchange meant for this sort of simpler use.
The main danger with them seems to be trying to plug too much into it. The
one I was eyeing last had 3 110v type outlets. Was thinking: 1 dedicated
to freezer (if need to run a hote plate for a short time, unplug the freezer
and use this one for it then plug freezer back in when done). 1 to a fan
and a lamp. 1 to a TV/VCR. Am thinking the one with the fan and lamp can
handle a second lamp too. When kidlit needs to recharge her DS2 game
machine, unplug a lamp g.

Seems ok. Then again, my needs are simple. As long as the gas is running,
I have a way to do food on the stovetop.

"Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote in message
ng.com...
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago
and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at
the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing
the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I
have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Your problem is in your approach. You are looking for the minimal machine
to perform marginally. You are allowing for no extras. It is wise to have
more power than you need in these circumstances, rather than not enough to
meet your needs. It is not necessary to overkill, but getting a unit that
is surely adequate is better than one that is borderline marginal. The
oversized one will not work as hard. It will last longer. You won't be
standing there with no power AND a DOA generator. This is the last thing
before darkness and spoiled food. Do you want to take that big a chance?

And buy a quiet quality unit, not an obnoxiously loud cheapo that will wear
out fast.

Steve

Jim Elbrecht wrote:

" wrote:

-snip-

the larger the generator the hungrier on gasoline, can you store 60
gallons or more at your home safely? it does spoil too, espically the
newer reformulated low volatile gasoline...........


Or legally? The neighboring city has a 5 gallon limit- unless it is
"contained in the metal tank fastened and attached to and used in
connection with any automobile for power purposes."

Jim

So there's you answer. Hook into the auto's tank. :-)

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

In article ,
Erma1ina wrote:

Here's what I got and I'm VERY happy with it:

1. Honda EU2000i portable generator (2000 watt max, 1600 watt rated)
Here's a link to the specs:

http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/M...elName=EU2000i

I use this generator and highly recommend it. It's very fuel efficient
and amazingly quiet.

Set on a high-quality scale with a full fuel tank, it weighs 54-lbs.
Anything larger probably shouldn't be considered truly "portable" by one
person.
--

JR

on 3/29/2008 6:44 PM Frank said the following:
Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run
the fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a
few web sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house
instead of just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I
live SW of Chicago and the longest I've been without power was 3 days
when a tornado came through. I would like to buy one that would get
me by for a day or two at the most and only run the basics. What I'm
having trouble with is sizing the unit to my needs. Sump pump,
furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic
setup, Rich


My unit is 5500 running watts (7350 starting) and plugs in through a
transfer box. It can run my furnace, well, refrigerator and freezers
with spare power for some lights and TV. Clothes dryer, electric
range, water heater and air conditioner were too much to add and are
not needed for few days outage as are the aforementioned items. Whole
set up including cost of generator and transfer box installed by
electrician cost about $1,000 two years ago.

I have a similar setup with a Generac 5500. It runs the whole house
without a problem, but there is a momentary 'brown out' when the 220 v
well pump starts up, but then returns to normal when the pump is fully
running.
On our section of the electrical grid, there are several power failures
a year, but most are just short enough to reset all our electric clocks
and timers to a blinking 12:00. I believe that our section is connected
to the main grid by an extension cord that runs across some farmland,
and a cow occasionally trips over it and pulls it out of the outlet.
:-) Some failures do last an hour or so, and one time more than 72
hours, but that was due to a hurricane.
There's no problem with the generator noise, as most of my neighbors
have generators. One neighbor across the street does not have a
generator and he has a driveway light that's on all night, so when that
light goes on, I know the power failure is over.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

In article ,
"Pete C." wrote:

Ignoring the legalities, a person who needs assistance sizing a portable
generator for the task is almost certainly not one who should be
managing a suicide cord back feed setup.

No sh*t.

Only a complete MORON would publicly recommend the method for standby
power that is illegal and has, in too many cases, KILLED utility linemen.

Use either a properly installed transfer switch or run extension cords
to the necessary appliances.
--
JR

On Mar 29, 2:27*pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through..
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

You can get a 6 circuit transfer box for about 400 prewired from
Generac, Lowes gave me one free when I bought a 5500 watt Generac.
Best is a transfer box with meters as you can balance the load and
its alot safer. Backfeeding has alot of risks for an accident to the
generator and you. You can get a trifuel unit, or convert yours.

Jim Redelfs wrote:

In article ,
"Pete C." wrote:

Ignoring the legalities, a person who needs assistance sizing a portable
generator for the task is almost certainly not one who should be
managing a suicide cord back feed setup.

No sh*t.

Only a complete MORON would publicly recommend the method for standby
power that is illegal and has, in too many cases, KILLED utility linemen.

Got a cite to one of those cases? All the claimed ones I've seen were
caused by the utility linemen not following procedures. People get all
emotional blaming the person with the improperly connected generator,
but the ultimate fault is always with the lineman since following
procedures insures they will remain safe even if someone has an
improperly connected generator. If you look at the limeman deaths
repairing things after a storm, you find that there are just as many
where no consumer generator was involved. Carelessness kills plain and
simple.


Use either a properly installed transfer switch or run extension cords
to the necessary appliances.

Certainly the best way to go.

In article ,
"cshenk" wrote:

slight confusion on our end is one of the reasons
we havent gotten one yet.

A portable generator can be very handy but, unless used properly, quite
deadly.

If you believe that running extension cords for those (hopefully) rare
occasions when the power is out for a long time, you should consider
running the generator OUTSIDE and passing the cords through the window
in your garage. Carbon monoxide can build up in an enclosed space, even
with the windows and doors open, particularly on a very calm day/night.
Also, if you get an "ultra-quiet" generator, you will loose much of that
value running the thing in an "enclosed" space, ventilated properly or
not.

Injuring or killing someone using a suicide cord (exposed prongs on BOTH
ends), particularly technicians working on the high voltage lines away
from your house, may be rare, but it has - and does - happen.

One hopes that a protracted outage is rare enough that the stringing of
cords isn't too big of a hassle for the occasion. In such instances,
run the cord to the freezer and "run it up" to operating temperature,
then do the same with the refrigerator.

If the outage is in the heating season, the process is a bit more
complicated, requiring the "hinking" of a plug onto the furnace supply
at its connection point. I have long planned to refit the furnace
connection (at the furnace) with a plug and outlet arrangement to
facilitate the application of external, standby power but have yet to do
it. I will probably procrastinate until it's truly necessary. sigh

The "Cadillac" of such things is a properly installed, easily used
"transfer switch". With this arrangement, one can power the ENTIRE
house without hassling with extension cords or, worse, resorting to the
appropriately maligned suicide cord. Of course, one must carefully
monitor the use of appliances in the house to avoid overloading the
genset.
--

JR

willshak wrote:
on 3/29/2008 6:44 PM Frank said the following:
I have a similar setup with a Generac 5500. It runs the whole house
without a problem, but there is a momentary 'brown out' when the 220 v
well pump starts up, but then returns to normal when the pump is fully
running.
On our section of the electrical grid, there are several power failures
a year, but most are just short enough to reset all our electric clocks
and timers to a blinking 12:00. I believe that our section is connected
to the main grid by an extension cord that runs across some farmland,
and a cow occasionally trips over it and pulls it out of the outlet.
:-) Some failures do last an hour or so, and one time more than 72
hours, but that was due to a hurricane.
There's no problem with the generator noise, as most of my neighbors
have generators. One neighbor across the street does not have a
generator and he has a driveway light that's on all night, so when that
light goes on, I know the power failure is over.


My generator is a noisy one from HD, Powerboss with B&S engine and
generac generating unit. The guys at a Honda dealer actually told me
what to look for and told me to avoid Coleman as if it broke down parts
would be scarce. We're on acre lots and all neighbors have equally
noisy generators. Besides having surge protectors for practically
everything, I have battery backup for computers and even put an old
deteriorating one on a VCR so I don't have to keep resetting from scratch.

See the same momentary brown out when well kicks on. Similar to lights
in kitchen dimming when disposal is used. Watt requirement is highest
when engines first come under load. Even so, I've had furnace, well,
refrigerator and 2 freezers all running at the same time. I suspect if
all came on at once they would pop a circuit breaker.

"Jim Redelfs" wrote
"cshenk" wrote:

slight confusion on our end is one of the reasons
we havent gotten one yet.

A portable generator can be very handy but, unless used properly, quite
deadly.

Yes, and we dont need one bad enough to be risky with it.

If you believe that running extension cords for those (hopefully) rare
occasions when the power is out for a long time, you should consider
running the generator OUTSIDE and passing the cords through the window
in your garage. Carbon monoxide can build up in an enclosed space, even

Understood. I gave too little information. In my area, hurricanes are the
main outage thing. Summer occurance, lots of wind and rain. I dont think
it will work outside in conditions like that. If it's not too bad though,
the alternate spot if the back screened porch (13x42ft) up on bricks or
cinderblocks to make sure it stays dry and only after the rain part has
passed by.

The garage is not airtight. It would be very easy to also lift the door 6
inches. In fact, the main problem with the garage is in winter as it isnt
airtight so we have a heating problem in a serious cold snap and have to use
pipe heaters.

Also, if you get an "ultra-quiet" generator, you will loose much of that
value running the thing in an "enclosed" space, ventilated properly or

Not worried about ultra quiet. Neighbors have these and at the time when
the power is out, we dont mind one anothers generator noise.

Injuring or killing someone using a suicide cord (exposed prongs on BOTH
ends), particularly technicians working on the high voltage lines away
from your house, may be rare, but it has - and does - happen.

Not planning to do more than direct connect it to a few appliances.

One hopes that a protracted outage is rare enough that the stringing of
cords isn't too big of a hassle for the occasion. In such instances,
run the cord to the freezer and "run it up" to operating temperature,
then do the same with the refrigerator.

Nope, though we did once go a week. No plan to run the fridge too off it.
We'll move whats freezable to the chest freezer and the rest can go bye-bye
if it's that long.

If the outage is in the heating season, the process is a bit more
complicated, requiring the "hinking" of a plug onto the furnace supply

Only once did that happen in 12 years and we used the fireplace. I'd be
more worried about frozen pipes in a case like that.

Thanks for the feedback!

On Mar 29, 2:27*pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through..
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

Rich wrote:

I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

I've got an 11 HP McCulloch 5100 Watt from Wallmart (FG5700AK), runs my
fridge, freezer, gas furnace, most of my lights are on it(CFL's throughout
the house), with plenty of power to spare. Bought it for less than $500. I
installed a transfer panel kit from Home Depot which ran me $200.
This thing starts 1st time every time. The Transfer panel had a defective
breaker which tripped well below its rating and wouldnt ever reset. I called
the mfgr, Connecticut Electric (which is not in Connecticut BTW, its just down
the road in Puyallup WA - go figure...) and they sent me a replacement
breaker free of charge. Very nice outfit to talk to on the phone.
Back to the generator: I also bought 2 1500 watt electric heaters ($15 each)
Each heater has 3 power settings and at the hi setting actually draws a little
over 1600 watts. Once a month (or sometimes 2 months) I wheel the generator
out of the garage and fire it up for 30 minutes, the 2 heaters provide a good
exercise load. Also, I have Stabil in the gasoline (I only use Top Tier gas),
the oil is Mobil 1 and I always run the carb dry after using or testing it.
Next time, when you turn the fuel back on, you have to wait about 30 seconds
before trying to start it, pull out the choke, 1 or 2 easy pulls and Bang!
off we go. Oh, one more thing, beware of the microwave, they draw a hell of a
lot more on start up than they run at, kinda like a motor. Mines not on the
transfer switch. We get frequent power outages here in winter, I have 2 dozen
D-cells for my flashlights (florescent lanterns), a coleman stove and a
couple small screw on bottles of propane for it, plus the bbq tank is full if
i need it. Gasoline is a problem in extended outages so I've learned to head
into town early in an outage and if the town is still lit, i can get gas till
it runs out due to high demand after about 2 days. I'd prefer to have a NG
fired generator (unlimited fuel supply due to my NG supplied by pipeline),
but i have what i have and adding a tap to the NG line after the meter is
going to be tricky due to short exposed pipe and I sure as hell aint gonna do
it myself on something like that, we leave that one to the pro's) plus I'd
have to install a conversion kit on the generator. So, the generator is full
all the time, and i have a 5 gallon can besides and a siphon hose in my
emergency box for getting gas out of my car - close enough.
It took me 2 separate week long outages in winter (here its typically
30's/40's and rain in winter)to smart'n up and get prepared, now I'm ready
and the last big outage went smoothly, furnace running, fridge cold, coleman
stove running - we (My wife and daughter and me) had it good, our neighbors
were looking for hotels (with genny's) up to 50 miles away and STILL had
problems finding one.
Eric

Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ? wrote:

Rich wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago
and the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through. I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at
the most and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing
the unit to my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I
have all compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


How do you expect to connect into the circuits of these few things?
The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box (with the mains off of course). That way everything will
run normally as always. A 5000 watt generator should do you. None of
them will run for 2 or 3 days without refueling. You'll have to gas it
up every day if you don't run it all night. Now you can get a small
diesel generator and hook it up to your oil tank and it would run until
the tank is empty. That will cost you much more. 5kw will give you
about 30 amps, the rating of your dryer cable and breaker. In the US anyway.

Backfeeding is stupid and dangerous and leaves you wide open to criminal
liability. EVEN if its not you, how are you going to prove that it wasnt you
who sent a backfed charge out onto the powerline that killed the lineworker?
I can hear it now... "Oh i wont forget to shut off the main" Sure, sure.
Dont be so stinking cheap, go buy a transfer switch.
Eric

cshenk wrote:

"aemeijers" wrote

Either get your main service panel wired with a proper subpanel and
transfer switch and umbilical socket, or just buy half a dozen heavy-duty
extension cords and run them through a cracked window for the duration. If
you don't believe me, call your insurance agent or local fire department,
and ask THEM. 'Suicide' cords were named that for a reason.

Grin, slight confusion on our end is one of the reasons we havent gotten one
yet. Our electrical box is opposite end of the house from where the garage
is (which with an open window is the optimal place for the generator).

I was thinking the safest and most workable setup for *us* is a simple small
one, not meant to be hooked to the house. I need to run one freezer (uses
110outlet, do not remember the rest of the details but can look it up,
filled with frozen stuff and can last days with little more than a bag of
ice a day as it is), and would like to be able to run a few lamps and a fan.
If I can squeeze in a small TV and a VCR or a DVD player (not vcr and dvd at
same time), it would be nice and seems the units could do that.

Ventilation of the garage isnt a problem. I also can open the door to the
screened porch off of it and it has one of those attic fans that work by
mere hot air rising (small but adequate for it's location). That was
however my first concern.

Wait! You mean to say your going to run it in your garage?
Surely you dont mean that...
That foolishness kills someone EVERY year around here.
I dont know which is worse, backfeeding or running a generator in your garage.
Probably the winner is running it in the garage and killing your family via
carbon monoxide poisoning.



I've seen several units at the exchange meant for this sort of simpler use.
The main danger with them seems to be trying to plug too much into it. The
one I was eyeing last had 3 110v type outlets. Was thinking: 1 dedicated
to freezer (if need to run a hote plate for a short time, unplug the freezer
and use this one for it then plug freezer back in when done). 1 to a fan
and a lamp. 1 to a TV/VCR. Am thinking the one with the fan and lamp can
handle a second lamp too. When kidlit needs to recharge her DS2 game
machine, unplug a lamp g.

Seems ok. Then again, my needs are simple. As long as the gas is running,
I have a way to do food on the stovetop.

gore wrote:
wrote:
Blattus Slafaly wrote:

The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box

Dumb idea for a number of reasons

What are the reasons? He has the main off. I am just curious because I
thought it sounded pretty good and you said for a number of reasons but
didn't give any.

I too considered it, it is cheaper than hiring an electrician to install a
transfer switch. Just Google around a bit, and you'll see why it is a very
bad idea.

The problem is that if you forget to turn off the mains, or if someone
else turns them on, or if your box is incorrectly wired, you could kill a
utility worker. The transformers will work in reverse to step up your
generator current to thousands of volts.

http://www.bt.cdc.gov/disasters/elecgenerators.asp

Back feeding is a serious and willful code violation. That means if you
burn down your house doing it, your insurance won't pay.

http://www.flatheadelectric.com/cust...yGenerator.htm

"In accordance with the National Electrical Code, paragraph 700-6;
Transfer equipment shall be designed and installed to prevent the
inadvertent interconnection of normal and emergency sources of supply in
any operation of the transfer equipment. Automatic transfer switches shall
be electrically operated and mechanically held."

It is against code. You might kill somebody. It is my understanding that
you could be held not just civilly liable, but also criminally.

--
Tony Sivori
Due to spam, I'm now filtering all Google Groups posters.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 2:27 pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:
I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit
to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

OK I've been looking at more units and switches and I think I'm going to use
my 16HP Briggs engine and get a 5500 watt PTO unit and make the generator
from that. Then use the money I didn't spend on an engine to get a transfer
switch and set this up properly.

Thanks for all who helped, Rich

Rich wrote:

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 2:27 pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:

I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit
to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich


Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

Please explain. Do transfer panels do dynamic load balancing?

Boden

OK I've been looking at more units and switches and I think I'm going to use
my 16HP Briggs engine and get a 5500 watt PTO unit and make the generator
from that. Then use the money I didn't spend on an engine to get a transfer
switch and set this up properly.

Thanks for all who helped, Rich

On Mar 30, 5:32*pm, Boden wrote:
Rich wrote:
"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 2:27 pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:

I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit
to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

Please explain. *Do transfer panels do dynamic load balancing?

Boden





OK I've been looking at more units and switches and I think I'm going to use
my 16HP Briggs engine and get a 5500 watt PTO unit and make the generator
from that. Then use the money I didn't spend on an engine to get a transfer
switch and set this up properly.

Thanks for all who helped, Rich- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

While we are on the topic..
does anyone have expreience with the generators that are actually DC
units with electronic inverters to make AC. That seems like a good
idea but I wonder about the surge capability. A regular generator can
handle a very large surge load due to it's mechanical interia is used
to over come the mechnical interia of the motor it is trying to start.
But a gen with an inverter may trip on overload when trying to start a
motor. Anybody have experience with this?

Mark

On Mar 29, 9:47*pm, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?
wrote:
gore wrote:
wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:36:25 -0400, Blattus Slafaly 0/00 ? ? ?
wrote:

The easiest way is to plug into your dryer outlet and back feed to your
electrical box
Dumb idea for a number of reasons

What are the reasons? He has the main off. I am just curious because I
thought it sounded pretty good and you said for a number of reasons but
didn't give any.

He is a moron, don't listen to him.

--
Blattus Slafaly *? 3 * * *7/8

Sounds OK technically. Is bad idea from safety angle; and illegal in
many places. Could result in legal and civil liability if someone gets
killed.
Should be no need to explain why!

In article
,
Mark wrote:

does anyone have expreience with the generators that are actually DC
units with electronic inverters to make AC. That seems like a good
idea but I wonder about the surge capability. A regular generator can
handle a very large surge load due to it's mechanical interia is used
to over come the mechnical interia of the motor it is trying to start.
But a gen with an inverter may trip on overload when trying to start a
motor. Anybody have experience with this?

Yes. My Honda EU2000i handles start-up surge just fine.
--

JR

In article ,
"Pete C." wrote:

Only a complete MORON would publicly recommend the method
for standby power that is illegal and has, in too many cases,
KILLED utility linemen.

Got a cite to one of those cases?

Sorry, no. Are you implying that that such has NOT happened?

All the claimed ones I've seen were caused by the utility linemen
not following procedures.

Oh, I agree completely. That pretty much goes for any commercial or
industrial accident: Someone was NOT following procedures. I hope
you'll agree that this fact does not make use of a "suicide cord"
acceptable.

Carelessness kills plain and simple.

Absolutely.

Fortunately, using a suicide cord, then inadvertently closing the main
breaker while the genset is running, would certainly STALL any
house-sized generator from overload as it tries to power all the stuff
back up the line.
--

JR

"Eric" wrote
cshenk wrote:

Grin, slight confusion on our end is one of the reasons we havent gotten
one
yet. Our electrical box is opposite end of the house from where the
garage
is (which with an open window is the optimal place for the generator).

Ventilation of the garage isnt a problem. I also can open the door to
the
screened porch off of it and it has one of those attic fans that work by
mere hot air rising (small but adequate for it's location). That was
however my first concern.

Wait! You mean to say your going to run it in your garage?

Was planning on it. Before you get upset, look at the critical pats of the
construction this time.

Open window, open door, roof vents and an open air fan plus garage door open
at least 6 inches (more if rain allows.)

Surely you dont mean that...
That foolishness kills someone EVERY year around here.
I dont know which is worse, backfeeding or running a generator in your
garage.
Probably the winner is running it in the garage and killing your family
via
carbon monoxide poisoning.

Read the conditions first please. This isnt an enclosed airtight garage.
In fact, it is designed that way because of the gas furnace unit.

Once the rain passes, it can go on the back screened porch.

If it helps, we had a free estimate done for an installed unit and asked
about this. The installed unit was more than we wanted to pay (about
1,500$). With the back door to the porch open (shielded from the rain) and
the side window, major draft. Opening the garage door 6 inches up,
windstorm in there.

On Mar 30, 4:32*pm, Boden wrote:
Rich wrote:
"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 2:27 pm, "Rich" madeyoulook@localhost wrote:

I'm in the market for a portable generator and just need it to run the
fridge the furnace and just small things after that. I went on a few web
sites and they seem to be geared to running your whole house instead of
just
a few things to get past the storm or what ever. I live SW of Chicago and
the longest I've been without power was 3 days when a tornado came
through.
I would like to buy one that would get me by for a day or two at the most
and only run the basics. What I'm having trouble with is sizing the unit
to
my needs. Sump pump, furnace, fridge and some lighting but I have all
compact fluorescents.

Thanks for any advice, especially from someone that has this basic setup,
Rich

Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

Please explain. *Do transfer panels do dynamic load balancing?

Boden





OK I've been looking at more units and switches and I think I'm going to use
my 16HP Briggs engine and get a 5500 watt PTO unit and make the generator
from that. Then use the money I didn't spend on an engine to get a transfer
switch and set this up properly.

Thanks for all who helped, Rich- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My 6 circuit Generac has 2 amp meters, one for each leg, you are
supposed to wire the apliance loads to balance it as best you can, and
monitor it through the amp meters so you can visualy see if you are
operating it safely. Im sure expensive multi circuit units are better,
but this is a safe way to do it. It is so you dont try to run
everything off one leg of the unit, and burn it up.

"ransley" wrote

Something else to consider, is how you balance the load so you dont
burn our the unit, its two legs make 220, using only one is not
correct, thats where a transfer panel makes it work safely.

Interesting! I wouldnt have thought of that aspect. Still havent got one
and our circumstances are not the same (no intent to hook it to the house
wiring for example) but I'd assume that above would still be applicable.

I was looking at one with 3 'outlets' but some are smaller and have 2.
Could be I'd do better with one that has only 2? We've gone a few times
without power for a few days in hurricane season (happens about every other
year). So far, never lost the freezer load. We keep it's empty spaces
filled with frozen water bottles (at least, we do that when a storm
approaches). If you dont open it much, it stays frozen for 3 days easy.
The one time we needed longer, Ice bags did the trick.