I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. The
track is on an elevated embankment. They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.

The vibration is the most annoying as the whole floor vibrates in a
buzzing kind of way.

My house has a full block basement and is constructed of wood siding
under aluminum siding.
My windows are old wood with old wood storms. My exterior doors have
to be replaced.

This house needs lots of work from replacing the roof to new drywall
inside to finishing the basement. What can I do as I proceed with the
work to reduce the noise and vibration?

Thanks
Jena

On Feb 19, 7:13*am, JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. *The
track is on an elevated embankment. *They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. *I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.

The vibration is the most annoying as the whole floor vibrates in a
buzzing kind of way.

My house has a full block basement and is constructed of wood siding
under aluminum siding.
My windows are old wood with old wood storms. *My exterior doors have
to be replaced.

This house needs lots of work from replacing the roof to new drywall
inside to finishing the basement. *What can I do as I proceed with the
work to reduce the noise and vibration?

Thanks
Jena

Research noise reduction, Floating walls are used in music studios,
Dual pane glass, carpet, wall treatments are all done, but it is
expensive.

On Feb 19, 8:13*am, JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. *The
track is on an elevated embankment. *They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. *I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.

The vibration is the most annoying as the whole floor vibrates in a
buzzing kind of way.

My house has a full block basement and is constructed of wood siding
under aluminum siding.
My windows are old wood with old wood storms. *My exterior doors have
to be replaced.

This house needs lots of work from replacing the roof to new drywall
inside to finishing the basement. *What can I do as I proceed with the
work to reduce the noise and vibration?

Thanks
Jena

I know you didn't ask, but...

Aside from the structural issues, have you considered the payback
issues?

You could spend a lot of money beefing up the structure to eliminate
noise and (possibly) vibration, as well as replacing windows and doors
and finishing the basement only to find that you'll never get your
money back because people might not want to pay a high price to live
near the train tracks. It's akin to pouring $250,000 in upgrades into
a house in a $100,000 neighborhood. You'll never get your investment
back.

Granted, if you plan to stay in the house for an extremely long time,
then do whatever you want to it - your comfort and enjoyment should
come first - but just remember that it might be hard to get your
"upgrade money" back simply due to the location.

My wife and I looked at a recently upgraded house right next to an
expressway. With new windows, doors and blown in insulation, you
couldn't hear the cars inside the house, but as soon as you opened a
window or went out into the beautiful yard, it was all you could hear.
The house was listed way below it's "structural value" because people
didn't want to live next to a highway.

Just my .02

On Feb 19, 7:13*am, JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track.

snip

Major mistake. For your sanity and financial security, get out the
best way you can. There isn't space enough to list all the problems
you will face. Putting any money in the place is futile, and you will
only get more deeper involved in the morass. I could be wrong, there
may be compelling reasons for your decision, but from my experience it
looks very troublesome for the future. Whatever, be brave.

Joe

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 05:13:05 -0800 (PST), JMartin
wrote:

I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track

Watch My Cousin Vinny. Worry about: _what's a Grit?_

After the train, the factory whistle blows!

LOL
--
Oren

JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. The
track is on an elevated embankment. They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.


It would be cheaper and quicker to sue the railroad for noise abatement and
insist that they move their facilities and tracks to another location.

On Feb 19, 8:13*am, JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. *The
track is on an elevated embankment. *They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. *I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.

The vibration is the most annoying as the whole floor vibrates in a
buzzing kind of way.

My house has a full block basement and is constructed of wood siding
under aluminum siding.
My windows are old wood with old wood storms. *My exterior doors have
to be replaced.

This house needs lots of work from replacing the roof to new drywall
inside to finishing the basement. *What can I do as I proceed with the
work to reduce the noise and vibration?

Thanks
Jena

There are some good sound-dampening techniques out there, but as
another poster said, once you open a window, all bets are off.

To start with, go research resilient channels. Put then in everywhere
when you replace your sheet rock. It will isolate your inside walls
from the outside walls so the sound can't get in. Some windows have
better sound qualities than others, so get ones with good some
dampening.

Use soft flooring. No hardwoods or tile, except as necessary.

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:38:37 -0600, "HeyBub" wrote:

JMartin wrote:
I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. The
track is on an elevated embankment. They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.


It would be cheaper and quicker to sue the railroad for noise abatement and
insist that they move their facilities and tracks to another location.


That idea would even get rid of vagrants or such.
--
Oren

On Feb 19, 6:33*pm, Pat wrote:
On Feb 19, 8:13*am, JMartin wrote:



I am buying a house that sits about 200 feet from a train track. *The
track is on an elevated embankment. *They like to do a bit of
switching with all the banging and clanging, then they power up the
locomotive and shove it all away. *I get a combination of noise from
the cars and then the vibration when those engines power up.

The vibration is the most annoying as the whole floor vibrates in a
buzzing kind of way.

My house has a full block basement and is constructed of wood siding
under aluminum siding.
My windows are old wood with old wood storms. *My exterior doors have
to be replaced.

This house needs lots of work from replacing the roof to new drywall
inside to finishing the basement. *What can I do as I proceed with the
work to reduce the noise and vibration?

Thanks
Jena

There are some good sound-dampening techniques out there, but as
another poster said, once you open a window, all bets are off.

To start with, go research resilient channels. Put then in everywhere
when you replace your sheet rock. *It will isolate your inside walls
from the outside walls so the sound can't get in. *Some windows have
better sound qualities than others, so get ones with good some
dampening.

Use soft flooring. *No hardwoods or tile, except as necessary.

Expanding on the above, why not gut the place, convert it into an
anechoic chamber like the ones used for testing sound output in
industrial stuff and be assured that you will be living in dead
silence? Nah, better to cut the losses and move on I think.

Joe