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Default repairing wet roof?

I lost some shingles during a storm a few days ago, and I want to put
some new ones on, but I thought I was supposed to wait for the roof to
be dry. I was going to put them on today, because the weather report
yesterday said today would be partly cloudy, but damned if we didn't
just have another shower. It's not raining hard or often, just a
couple showers a day, enough to keep the roof wet. So is it worse to
wait and let it keep getting wet, or to trap the moisture in by
putting the new shingles on before it dries? The area needing new
shingles (the old ones are completely gone down to the tar paper) is
about 5' x 6'. Thanks for any help.
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Default repairing wet roof?

On Dec 7, 12:27 pm, (Malcolm Hoar) wrote:
In article , wrote:

I lost some shingles during a storm a few days ago, and I want to put
some new ones on, but I thought I was supposed to wait for the roof to
be dry. I was going to put them on today, because the weather report
yesterday said today would be partly cloudy, but damned if we didn't
just have another shower. It's not raining hard or often, just a
couple showers a day, enough to keep the roof wet. So is it worse to
wait and let it keep getting wet, or to trap the moisture in by
putting the new shingles on before it dries? The area needing new
shingles (the old ones are completely gone down to the tar paper) is
about 5' x 6'. Thanks for any help.


Many experienced roofers will not work on a wet roof. It's
just too dangerous.

Inexperienced roofers probably shouldn't either ;-)

Wait for a dry day if you possibly can and be safe. You'll
almost certainly be able to effect a better repair in the
dry and avoid a long wait in the E.R. too.

--
|~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~|
| Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". |
| Gary Player. |
|http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. |
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



Jeez, I honestly didn't even consider the safety aspect, so thanks.
Can I have my wife call you if she doesn't believe me?
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Default repairing wet roof?

On Dec 7, 2:37 pm, wrote:
I lost some shingles during a storm a few days ago, and I want to put
some new ones on, but I thought I was supposed to wait for the roof to
be dry. I was going to put them on today, because the weather report
yesterday said today would be partly cloudy, but damned if we didn't
just have another shower. It's not raining hard or often, just a
couple showers a day, enough to keep the roof wet. So is it worse to
wait and let it keep getting wet, or to trap the moisture in by
putting the new shingles on before it dries? The area needing new
shingles (the old ones are completely gone down to the tar paper) is
about 5' x 6'. Thanks for any help.


A great and humerous exchange..in this group?!?! WOW...nice.....

okay what kind of roof is it??...steep...pitched......because MALCOLM
is totally correct: you should stay off a wet roof whenever
possible........

basically as far as just the material is concerned....wet felt paper
will tend to buckle...so in an ideal situation, you'd like to see the
exposed felt be as flat as possible..however.....the very fact that
some of your roof has blown off..means something is going wrong...and
may indicate that the entire system will need extensive work in the
near future...so you could get the felt issue right at that time...if
the roof is not too steep...and you have the skill (and a little
courage) to tackle the job on your own..then the fact that it is wet /
snowy / damp...will not effect the shingles themselves....we spend
many rainy days running around our market making emergency repairs for
insurance companies and panicked homeowners....a good tip would be to
manually hand seal each tab to the existing roof..rather than waiting
for thermal sealing to kick in! Good Luck!
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On Dec 7, 2:03 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:
..a good tip would be to
manually hand seal each tab to the existing roof..rather than waiting
for thermal sealing to kick in! Good Luck!



Yeah, I think that's what the problem was with my roof --- it doesn't
get hot enough here to seal well, rarely over 65 even in July. And
apparently the "pros" here don't know to do it, because when I asked
the hardware store guy for roofing cement to seal the tabs, he said
nobody uses it for that, it's just for flashings.

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On Dec 7, 6:02 pm, Norminn wrote:
wrote:
On Dec 7, 2:03 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:


..a good tip would be to
manually hand seal each tab to the existing roof..rather than waiting
for thermal sealing to kick in! Good Luck!


Yeah, I think that's what the problem was with my roof --- it doesn't
get hot enough here to seal well, rarely over 65 even in July. And
apparently the "pros" here don't know to do it, because when I asked
the hardware store guy for roofing cement to seal the tabs, he said
nobody uses it for that, it's just for flashings.


My city requires "spot cementing" under each tab for shingles on mansard
roofs. This became "law" after ours was done otherwise. I found the
requirement in the FAQ, under what are the most common reasons for red
tag. Some other mentions were hard to interpret, as they looked like
there were typing errors. Most referred to nailing and cementing.
Curiously, there is no mention of the slope requirement for "mansard"
roofs, but mebbe all the roofers know what it is )- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


hello" hand sealing is not confined to just mansard roofs...basically
any roof with a positive slope (pitch) of 12/12 ( 12" of rise every 12
inches of length) and up needs hand sealed AND 6 nails as oppossed to
the standerd 4 nails.PER tab.

An esy visual definition for a mansrd roof is a BARN roof..picture an
old barn with steep sides meeting lower slope 'reg" looking roof.
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On Dec 7, 5:15 pm, wrote:
On Dec 7, 2:03 pm, Roof Time Cincinnati wrote:

..a good tip would be to
manually hand seal each tab to the existing roof..rather than waiting
for thermal sealing to kick in! Good Luck!


Yeah, I think that's what the problem was with my roof --- it doesn't
get hot enough here to seal well, rarely over 65 even in July. And
apparently the "pros" here don't know to do it, because when I asked
the hardware store guy for roofing cement to seal the tabs, he said
nobody uses it for that, it's just for flashings.


Not sure where 'here" is...but KARNAK makes an excellant
cement...another choice would be "Geocel 2300", a little more costly
per tube but really superior cold weather performer!

it is a clear product, not black tar style/...really good
stuff...about 6 bucks a tube........to hand seal every tab, figure on
1 tube per 10x10 area, (called a roofer square)

Your local roofers know about hand sealing..but it is SUCH a pain to
do...they are most likely avoiding the issue...to hand seal an entire
roof is a BIG task...lots of stooping and bending.....very labor
intensive.....
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