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Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
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#1
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I am tiling my entrance hallway and kitchen. I had to start in the
hallway as this is the longest run of the floor. Once in the kitchen I am tiling up to my adjacent dining room which has oak floor. I noticed that I can put a full tile where the DR starts, but it overlaps the oak floor by about 1/2" ( the the oak floor and backerboard in the kitchen are even and at the same level). If I wanted to stay away from the oak floor, it means more cuts ( tiles are at a 45 deg angle) and plus it would not look as nice as full tile. If I screw down the oak floor so it would be tight, would it be OK? i figure its only overlapping 1/2" it would not be a concern. I am putting down a saddle so you would not see the screws |
#2
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Consider installing a strip of oak on top of the oak floor butted
against the tile as a transition strip so the edges of the tile don't show. Easing the outside edge with a miter cut or rounding it with a router should give it a more finished look. Hope this helps. |
#3
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On Nov 14, 4:32 am, Mikepier wrote:
I am tiling my entrance hallway and kitchen. I had to start in the hallway as this is the longest run of the floor. Once in the kitchen I am tiling up to my adjacent dining room which has oak floor. I noticed that I can put a full tile where the DR starts, but it overlaps the oak floor by about 1/2" ( the the oak floor and backerboard in the kitchen are even and at the same level). If I wanted to stay away from the oak floor, it means more cuts ( tiles are at a 45 deg angle) and plus it would not look as nice as full tile. If I screw down the oak floor so it would be tight, would it be OK? i figure its only overlapping 1/2" it would not be a concern. I am putting down a saddle so you would not see the screws The wood floor will move no matter how many screws you throw in it. You don't want to prevent the movement of the wood floor, it's designed to allow for it - that's what the gap around the perimeter of the floor is for. The transition between floors, and particularly at doorways, is the worst place to attempt "should be okay". Cut out the offending wood flooring, infill with backer board or mortar with embedded mesh, and then run the tile as you want. There should be a gap between the oak and the tile and your saddle will cover that. R |
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